Drove the car about 25 miles today and I just give thanks to the fellas who discovered this mod!
My car sat for about 6 days and cold started at 77 degrees. I let it idle for about 3-4 mins and it got to 90, then I drove in stop and go freeway traffic and it heated up after around 6-7 mins, which is less than half of the time it used too.
I also noticed it seems to cool down quicker with temps reaching no more than 213 but typically street moving at around 208/201 and highway around 197/199.
I’m no expert on oils like this thread has been discussing, but per the og’s here (Peter,cali, both kev’s etc) I run liquimoly 5w-40 (purple bottle) with ceratec, change the oil every 6 months or 2500-3k miles and live in LA where it does get pretty warm
I am glad LM5w40 MOD-2.0 meets your needs to prevent pistons from accumulating extreme heat.
> SPRAY COOLING:
Your engine heat is now removed in the most effective way while driving.
Keeping oil for only 2500Mi helps protect against viscosity loss. Here we are not focused so much on lubrication than spray RPM. Lower viscosity limits effective cooling.
> RINGS SEAL:
Pistons rings have undergone changes to minimize dry-lube frictions. Our modern engines use low tension rings to exert reduced friction on cylinders wall. Great!
The flip side is high blow-by losses compounded with rings stuck by oil carbon.
This turns a perfectly good engine into a shaky poor performer we are familiar with.
This can be easily disabled by a reliable oil film! This is when Peter reports noticeable smooth idling without vibrations.
When pistons are sprayed at driving RPM, rings offer an excellent dynamic seal to minimize blow-by losses.
> TRULY AMAZING PERFORMANCE:
Engines with all cylinders in good conditions will experience soaring performance to unexpected level.
The key is when all cylinders contribute equally the high resolution CKP signal is evenly predictable without any late jittery cylinder from weak combustions.
The ECU easily picks up on these excellent timings to burn more fuel in sealed cylinders.
The whole improvement process is extremely touchy and a very gradual journey. Getting clean sealed rings takes driving time.
ECU burning more fuel with improved timings is what delivers power in the form of torque!
> GETTING GDI TIMINGS:
At some point in your engine self-improvement journey it should switch to diesel like GDI injection sounds.
I really want one of your turbo guys to experience GDI injection performance.
- Without that it's a responsive but heavy car.
- With it, it's a humingbird with handless response at any RPM.
Bosch ECU firmware really shine with its pressure-sensitive accelerator... Danke!
Forget the strugle with throttle lag and weak misfire calamities. There's a more virtuous open path ahead.
Under GDI timings the accelerator directly moves the car with everything you ask for in zero response time.
Over and over while engine is keeping perfectly cool. That's a radical change from sizzling heat + burned oil!
Another thing that stikes me is how so unclunky the engine has becomed with smooth timings. You know when you rev-up to 2500.RPM in Neutral, all those uneasy metallic noises.... gone quiet not from MOD-2 oil, from exact timings! Truly "the best or nothing" territories...
> ADVANCED MOJO FORMULA:
Back when I replaced my limp chain tensioners, I also did rework my ISM module. This contributed to provide notable CAN-C bliss.
I recently also reworked my ESP module and this provided further ECU/TCU improvements. So I am wondering if poor CAN-C timings are disabling advanced GDI timings ??
Should nobody gets GDI "diesel like" idle I will conclude soldering key modules is necessary to enable full performance timings.
When all the seemingly insignificant details are worked out carefully the ECU/TCU performance soar - That's where I'm going.
I think I have currently visited my whole CAN-C list of solderless VIP modules.
I also noticed it seems to cool down quicker with temps reaching no more than 213 but typically street moving at around 208/201 and highway around 197/199.
I am glad to see temps that are on par with mine - being in FL my temps were higher than most of the others I have seen over Spring weather months.
In warmer weather with the A/C on mine is warming up sooner at 12 minutes but these people who cite 6 minutes, that would be impossible for my car unless you just disregarded the low oil temp and started driving it hard immediately (which I won't do).
In warmer weather with the A/C on mine is warming up sooner at 12 minutes but these people who cite 6 minutes, that would be impossible for my car unless you just disregarded the low oil temp and started driving it hard immediately (which I won't do).
I definitely do not beat on mine at all till the temps his 186 (10 degrees over when it turns white), I have noticed it still takes longer if I hop straight on a highway, but if I’m driving city it warms up quicker I’m assuming bc of the stop and go!
I am glad LM5w40 MOD-2.0 meets your needs to prevent pistons from accumulating extreme heat.
> SPRAY COOLING:
Your engine heat is now removed in the most effective way while driving.
Keeping oil for only 2500Mi helps protect against viscosity loss. Here we are not focused so much on lubrication than spray RPM. Lower viscosity limits effective cooling.
> RINGS SEAL:
Pistons rings have undergone changes to minimize dry-lube frictions. Our modern engines use low tension rings to exert reduced friction on cylinders wall. Great!
The flip side is high blow-by losses compounded with rings stuck by oil carbon.
This turns a perfectly good engine into a shaky poor performer we are familiar with.
This can be easily disabled by a reliable oil film! This is when Peter reports noticeable smooth idling without vibrations.
When pistons are sprayed at driving RPM, rings offer an excellent dynamic seal to minimize blow-by losses.
> TRULY AMAZING PERFORMANCE:
Engines with all cylinders in good conditions will experience soaring performance to unexpected level.
The key is when all cylinders contribute equally the high resolution CKP signal is evenly predictable without any late jittery cylinder from weak combustions.
The ECU easily picks up on these excellent timings to burn more fuel in sealed cylinders.
The whole improvement process is extremely touchy and a very gradual journey. Getting clean sealed rings takes driving time.
ECU burning more fuel with improved timings is what delivers power in the form of torque!
> GETTING GDI TIMINGS:
At some point in your engine self-improvement journey it should switch to diesel like GDI injection sounds.
I really want one of your turbo guys to experience GDI injection performance.
- Without that it's a responsive but heavy car.
- With it, it's a humingbird with handless response at any RPM.
Bosch ECU firmware really shine with its pressure-sensitive accelerator... Danke!
Forget the strugle with throttle lag and weak misfire calamities. There's a more virtuous open path ahead.
Under GDI timings the accelerator directly moves the car with everything you ask for in zero response time.
Over and over while engine is keeping perfectly cool. That's a radical change from sizzling heat + burned oil!
Another thing that stikes me is how so unclunky the engine has becomed with smooth timings. You know when you rev-up to 2500.RPM in Neutral, all those uneasy metallic noises.... gone quiet not from MOD-2 oil, from exact timings! Truly "the best or nothing" territories...
> ADVANCED MOJO FORMULA:
Back when I replaced my limp chain tensioners, I also did rework my ISM module. This contributed to provide notable CAN-C bliss.
I recently also reworked my ESP module and this provided further ECU/TCU improvements. So I am wondering if poor CAN-C timings are disabling advanced GDI timings ??
Should nobody gets GDI "diesel like" idle I will conclude soldering key modules is necessary to enable full performance timings.
When all the seemingly insignificant details are worked out carefully the ECU/TCU performance soar - That's where I'm going.
I think I have currently visited my whole CAN-C list of solderless VIP modules.
I’ve only put about 150 miles since the oil mod, I can definitely say in neutral and park you can’t even feel the cars on! I’m looking forward to the miles where I’m cleaning my pistons and motor! Sounds like it’s time for a nice road trip Lol
I’ve only put about 150 miles since the oil mod, I can definitely say in neutral and park you can’t even feel the cars on! I’m looking forward to the miles where I’m cleaning my pistons and motor! Sounds like it’s time for a nice road trip Lol
i agree - this mod saved me money on wanting new motor mounts - we are back to smooth
i agree - this mod saved me money on wanting new motor mounts - we are back to smooth
Motor mounts and a new fuel filter are on my to-do list for this summer.
WRT the mod contributing to decarbonizing piston rings, etc., it's probably more important than ever to change oil and filter every 3000 miles (per one of Lake, Jr.'s videos).
Motor mounts and a new fuel filter are on my to-do list for this summer.
WRT the mod contributing to decarbonizing piston rings, etc., it's probably more important than ever to change oil and filter every 3000 miles (per one of Lake, Jr.'s videos).
JR, would that be the perfect time to use the detergent Valvoline oil Lake Jr. showed us in your recent video.
This oil sounded tailored to clean dry-lubed carbonized engines.
Its has their proprietary cleaning molecule developed in India.
Not sure they have an oil matching MB requirements.
Quick weird question, I realized I might had forgot to cap and tape the wiring harness side plug after unplugging (I was too happy that it was finally unplugged successfully), obviously I should cap or tape to protect it but what happens if I don't cap it, will road salt from winters damage it or heavy rain fall damage it? I do notice there are clearly holes in the splashguard covers for obvious reasons such as to allow water to drain and not accumulate but then salt and water might get through?
If this wiring harness does get damaged from rain or salt, it is not a big deal right? Assuming I will never need it again as I most likely will never want the oil pump solenoid active again, or if it is uncapped/tape does it open a pathway for rain or salt to potentially damage the ECU or short it out like how oil does? Thanks : )
Quick weird question, I realized I might had forgot to cap and tape the wiring harness side plug after unplugging (I was too happy that it was finally unplugged successfully), obviously I should cap or tape to protect it but what happens if I don't cap it, will road salt from winters damage it or heavy rain fall damage it? I do notice there are clearly holes in the splashguard covers for obvious reasons such as to allow water to drain and not accumulate but then salt and water might get through?
If this wiring harness does get damaged from rain or salt, it is not a big deal right? Assuming I will never need it again as I most likely will never want the oil pump solenoid active again, or if it is uncapped/tape does it open a pathway for rain or salt to potentially damage the ECU or short it out like how oil does? Thanks : )
You need to make sure the connector even un-used to stay clean and dry because it is still powered.
The oil solenoid power is from Fuse 22 for M276.8xx engine. If Fuse 22 blow, you loose these components power supply :
Be safe than sorry....... even though ECM are known to have smart drivers, but I wont risk it.
Thank you! This is a good suggestion I don't mind the code but that is good solution.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
You need to make sure the connector even un-used to stay clean and dry because it is still powered.
The oil solenoid power is from Fuse 22 for M276.8xx engine. If Fuse 22 blow, you loose these components power supply :
Be safe than sorry....... even though ECM are known to have smart drivers, but I wont risk it.
Thank you! This is very helpful and answers my question with lots of clarification.
Totally agree, better safe than sorry. Let me see if I can tape the harness from above now or maybe I might need to drop the splashguards again.
So um... another question, while I went back down to seal up the connector.... and um.. .this is awkward.
Apparently I turned the screws too hard (and removing the splash guard/splash shield too often) and now they are clicking, assuming some of the clips are broken, can I replace the individual clips or do I need to replace the entire splash guard/ splash shield?
I also found it weird that there are no videos on youtube (or I am just super bad at searching) showing the removal of the front two splash guard/shields for the W205. I wonder if it is because it is straight forward and no one thought a video is necessary? Asking because I might also had installed the covers back on wrong.
Is there like a WIS for installing all the splash guard/shields for the W205 by chance?
Sorry for all the questions today, last 3 questions for today, I promise!
1. Can someone kindly please tell me what should I use to spray/clean the connector before sealing?
2. Can someone kindly please tell me what should I use to seal the connector, like what tape (electrical tape?), dust caps, vinyl, rubber or what else is recommended to seal it up?
3. Can someone kindly please tell me what (which is the right one) connector do I use to seal it that is waterproof, the one forum member JettaRed shared with the link is nice but will take a while to get here, anything on amazon by chance?
So um... another question, while I went back down to seal up the connector.... and um.. .this is awkward.
Apparently I turned the screws too hard (and removing the splash guard/splash shield too often) and now they are clicking, assuming some of the clips are broken, can I replace the individual clips or do I need to replace the entire splash guard/ splash shield?
I also found it weird that there are no videos on youtube (or I am just super bad at searching) showing the removal of the front two splash guard/shields for the W205. I wonder if it is because it is straight forward and no one thought a video is necessary? Asking because I might also had installed the covers back on wrong.
Is there like a WIS for installing all the splash guard/shields for the W205 by chance?
Thank you!
The screws and its female thread will be this type : You can buy them stand alone, no need with the splash guard.
These are not to be installed too tight or using power tool. Hand tight with small 1/4" rachet ( so less power ) and then 90 degrees.
Un-doing it you can use power tool, but low speed please.
The threads are wood type ( like self tapping ) not machine type. So usually the female one got worn out first, but at times the male one can thin out too.
I have un-done my under carriage cover like close to 100 times already ...LOL. Hence I wear them screws and its female clip too.
There is no need a video for it. Sometime you need to align the female clip, because they can move a bit.
Sorry for all the questions today, last 3 questions for today, I promise!
1. Can someone kindly please tell me what should I use to spray/clean the connector before sealing?
2. Can someone kindly please tell me what should I use to seal the connector, like what tape (electrical tape?), dust caps, vinyl, rubber or what else is recommended to seal it up?
3. Can someone kindly please tell me what (which is the right one) connector do I use to seal it that is waterproof, the one forum member JettaRed shared with the link is nice but will take a while to get here, anything on amazon by chance?
Thanks again!
01. Electrical Contact Cleaner is best. CRC one okey.
02. Use 3M good electrical tape will be easiest. Scotch 33+ or Super 88. In black.
But add a small cable tie so that the tape won't undo itself long term.
Tape the front part first and then the sides. Not the prettiest, but decent.
Or buy a big enough shrink tube, their shrink ratio is usually 2 to 1 or 50% shrink at least. Keep its end a bit long and flip it to make water tight seal and again use cable tie to
keep the folded part stay folded. Face the sky when securing the now sealed connector if using shrink tube as its forward part has the best water spray proof sealing, not its rear side of the connector.
Example : 3M tape and cable tie
This is only water spray protection and not for high pressure water jet cleaning or submerssion.
I permanently have spare connector paralleled to Crank-Pos-Sensor and Fuel Qty Valve of High Pressure Fuel pump. This is for future troubleshooting.
So no need to back probe my ECM connector when scoping. Hence the 2 Deutsch connectors there, 3 pins and 2 pins.
03. You can buy a FEMALE connector version as a cap. But you need to buy the wire seal of PLUG type and not cable type with hole, or inject the wire holes exit with sealant.
You must get the correct key-coding of the female connector. There are like 4 types of key if I recall. Too bad I do not have a complete photo to ID the male connector
key-coding.
I have some test wire using the same family of Hirschmann sealstar 1.2
Attached its spec sheet
If you can find the photo of the oil valve connector where I can see the key-coding properly and the flat and curve part, I can tell you where to buy the connector.
Quick weird question, I realized I might had forgot to cap and tape the wiring harness side plug after unplugging (I was too happy that it was finally unplugged successfully), obviously I should cap or tape to protect it but what happens if I don't cap it, will road salt from winters damage it or heavy rain fall damage it? I do notice there are clearly holes in the splashguard covers for obvious reasons such as to allow water to drain and not accumulate but then salt and water might get through?
If this wiring harness does get damaged from rain or salt, it is not a big deal right? Assuming I will never need it again as I most likely will never want the oil pump solenoid active again, or if it is uncapped/tape does it open a pathway for rain or salt to potentially damage the ECU or short it out like how oil does? Thanks : )
Mine is just ziptied and dangling since last year. Car shouldn't see salt (on purpose) under my ownership so that's something. I believe (but not positive) that it wouldn't try to ground switch the solenoid until it sees the proper resistance range but that is just a guess. Anyway, it would take a real miracle to somehow short a pin from my plug, which is ziptied away from stuff, to ground. I'm not worried about it.
These are not to be installed too tight or using power tool. Hand tight with small 1/4" rachet ( so less power ) and then 90 degrees.
Un-doing it you can use power tool, but low speed please.
The threads are wood type ( like self tapping ) not machine type. So usually the female one got worn out first, but at times the male one can thin out too.
I have un-done my under carriage cover like close to 100 times already ...LOL. Hence I wear them screws and its female clip too.
There is no need a video for it. Sometime you need to align the female clip, because they can move a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
01. Electrical Contact Cleaner is best. CRC one okey.
02. Use 3M good electrical tape will be easiest. Scotch 33+ or Super 88. In black.
But add a small cable tie so that the tape won't undo itself long term.
Tape the front part first and then the sides. Not the prettiest, but decent.
Or buy a big enough shrink tube, their shrink ratio is usually 2 to 1 or 50% shrink at least. Keep its end a bit long and flip it to make water tight seal and again use cable tie to
keep the folded part stay folded. Face the sky when securing the now sealed connector if using shrink tube as its forward part has the best water spray proof sealing, not its rear side of the connector.
I permanently have spare connector paralleled to Crank-Pos-Sensor and Fuel Qty Valve of High Pressure Fuel pump. This is for future troubleshooting.
So no need to back probe my ECM connector when scoping. Hence the 2 Deutsch connectors there, 3 pins and 2 pins. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...2f40277727.jpg
03. You can buy a FEMALE connector version as a cap. But you need to buy the wire seal of PLUG type and not cable type with hole, or inject the wire holes exit with sealant.
You must get the correct key-coding of the female connector. There are like 4 types of key if I recall. Too bad I do not have a complete photo to ID the male connector
key-coding.
If you can find the photo of the oil valve connector where I can see the key-coding properly and the flat and curve part, I can tell you where to buy the connector.
Good luck......
Wonderful! I really really do appreciate the help!
Okay so first thing is to order those screws to be replaced hopefully the old ones just knocks off or slides off from the cover.
Second is the tape, I am going with the 88 as recommended because of harsh winters here in Canada. Apparently they are rated for -4 F? I still have some stainless steel zip tie left so I can use that to zip tie after tape.
Third is the connector, greatly appreciate all the spec diagrams, learned something new about the key coding did not expect there to be so many variations.
I see some forum members wrapping it in foil as well, I would go with your recommendation of using electrical tape.
Unrelated technical issue I had for a while is: I wish I can press the like button to the post of those who helped me over the months, they were all extremely helpful but for some reason it doesn't work for me, I should contact a mod or someone to have them look into it. Weird thing is, I tried several devices and browsers to no avail. Last year, the multi quote function also didn't work but it magically worked again in the recent months. Those are the only two forum software problem I had so far. In the meantime, I will just have to express my gratitude through words : Thank you!
I will try to take that picture requested of both the male and female connectors with the curve and flat side and the key coding as suggested.
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