So... at idle, everything is fine, however the moment I step on it, smoke comes out, not exactly a lot unless high revving, but when coming to a stop and the engine down shifts to a stop, a significant amount of smoke is present with the smell of burnt oil. I lose a qt per 200-300 miles. The smoke is white. There are no engine oil leaks present and the coolant volume hasn't changed. There's a noticeable misfire, not detected by ECU, therefore no codes are present. Coils and plugs are 6mo old, high pressure fuel pumps are 2 mo. old. Vehicle has 108k miles with catless exhaust and stage 2. This smoking problem has been present for the past year gradually getting worse. There's no obvious loss of power or lag. I'm thinking it's the turbos or valve leak. A compression test has been performed by dealer with result of 160 for cyl 5 and 6(they didn't test the rest of them).A valve leak test has not been completed. A small amount of oil was present in the turbos at the time of the inspection, especially the driver side with a noticeable jiggle on the turbo actuator on the purge valve. Passenger turbo actuator purge connection is stable. Purge valve actuator shaft is not vibrating while in idle on either turbos. After an oil change and 200 miles on it, the oils appears to be more darker than usual when looking at it on a tissue used to check the level. To rule out turbos vs valves, what additional testing is needed to find the cause of the smoke ? Borescope of cyl 5,6 reveals oil covered top of piston with the center of it being clean(fresh oil present) and the perimeter of the piston are uniformly covered in carbon. Cyl walls have no significant abrasions or damage(


Again, this smoke is present mostly under high load ( high revving while vehicle is in park) especially more with down shifting to complete stop. At idle, no smoke or smell of burnt oil is present. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

Change your PCV valve! Mine was bad and I was burning oil (about 1qt every 600 miles). I would also see smoke out the exhaust on hard accelerations. This fixed both problems. It is a relatively easy DIY job and is cheap. Make sure to check out the forum on here that tells you how to replace the PVC. Finally, make sure you remove the heatshield/false fire wall when doing this PCV job!!!!!

 

PCV Valve was replaced by Eurocharged in April of this year. Also the vacuum pump check valve diaphragm vas replaced this year.
I recently got a smoke machine and this weekend, I'm gonna smoke it, of course with bourbon, however, I'll spray the vacuum lines see how the engine reacts too. I'll post an update this weekend on my findings.

 

I think you need a compression test on all cylinders to rule out some of the more scary problems.

 

priceless 😂

 

Smoke test completed. No leaks. Vacuum pump valve was broken again, this time it's in one piece and the damn thing is approx. 8-10mo. old. So I took it apart, cleaned it and super-glued the ring to keep the silicone cup in place and it solved my issues. I'll give it a few weeks and then reassess the turbos. Damn, this car is sensitive.

 

What part did you use? The $10 china one or the $40+ Ukraine one? I used the slow boat Ukraine one...

 

glad to see you resolved your problem with relatively low drama. Is this considered a maintenance part that should be changed periodically, or more of, if it ain't broke...

 

That " Ukraine one" could be also from China. Just resell for better price? Looks so same as China. I bought mine from China and is still working. Original part orange membrane was totally blown away.

And is it possible if this vacuum hose with two check valves is broken could it also broke that little check valve faster? https://www.ebay.com/itm/11504578734...3ABFBMsM-s9ptk



Ukraine:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11504578734...3ABFBMsM-s9ptk

China:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14513684376...3ABFBM-tKd95tk

China:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35492702196...Bk9SR_rSnfebZA

 

All three of those say they are from Ukraine, have the same pics and same price. I'm confused.

Last I looked into this, the China ones were $10 and used like a black membrane. They were from some Ford application if I recall correctly.

 

Yes sorry! I did put wrong links. Now there are right ones. Many China ones does use the same orange membrane as Ukraine.

 

Based on Chinese marketing ethics, I would have an easier time believing that they are just adjusting to their competition. Has anyone actually gotten an orange membrane from the cheaper Chinese suppliers? Also they used to be like $10 and now they are close to $30. That looks like adjusting to market demand to me, not some change to offer a higher quality part.

 

In my last link the price is 6,89dollars, and so many in eBay are under that 6,89dollars. And looks like they are all orange. I haven't see any black. I did bought three from china. Orange membranes.

But anyone can buy what ever he wants. Just saying that maybe that Ukraine one is just not Ukraine made, its so similar that China stuff.

 

I'm still not convinced they are the same. Maybe the Chinese are copying the orange now. That's well within their schtick. Also, from a logical standpoint, a part sourced from Ukraine is far, FAR more likely to be associated with original equipment production (supply chain) than this part from China, if you think about German automaker supply chains, especially 10+ years ago.

 

We are both doing a guess work here. Can be the opposite. Its so easy to buy from China and after sell that its "our own development" Its seen many times.

But what ever, just saying that Ukraine version COULD be from China also. So similar than all China versions and there are a lot of them in eBay. All orange membrane.

That "Ukraine" made isn't expensive either so I will try that someday if/when my China ones fail. Hope its even better that the China stuff

 

Agree, it could be the opposite. I don't think I've seen any of the "real" Ukraine parts fail and I have heard quite a few anecdotes of the Chinese ones failing. But yes, still guesswork.