W212 E63 (UK) Idle RPM increase in different drive modes?
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W212 E63 (UK) Idle RPM increase in different drive modes?
Hi all!
My question is the above really, but would only apply to the UK variant (RWD-only). When choosing sportier drive modes, to the idle revs increase? I can see this happens on the R231 SL63, but am hoping it happens on the E63 so I can use the extra space.
Thank you!
My question is the above really, but would only apply to the UK variant (RWD-only). When choosing sportier drive modes, to the idle revs increase? I can see this happens on the R231 SL63, but am hoping it happens on the E63 so I can use the extra space.
Thank you!
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
It happens to some of the e63's but not all of them, doesn't happen on mine. It's been discussed here before for sure.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
Last edited by PeterUbers; Jun 14, 2025 at 10:10 PM.
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It happens to some of the e63's but not all of them, doesn't happen on mine. It's been discussed here before for sure.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
2019 C63CS
Generally the idle RPM is raised in the sportiest modes if the engine is turbo charged. Gets the idle RPM closer to where the turbos start producing boost, so less lag off the line. Not common with naturally aspirated engines. FWIW, the PFL W212 had the naturally aspirated 6.2L whereas the FL W212 got the 5.5L twin-turbo, so I would expect that this happens in the FL. All the current AMGs do this as well, and it's not just AMGs. I know the turbo-charged Audi S and RS models do this, too. However, my NA 2013 Audi RS5 didn't do it.
Last edited by superswiss; Jun 15, 2025 at 12:54 AM.
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W212 E63 S AMG
I’d bet there are subtle factory adjustments over the model years. Mine is a 2014, and the idle only bumps up in M mode. Reading the above threads, it looks like maybe Mercedes made model year changes where S and S+ began also bumping up the idle.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
Out Of Control!!
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Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
cancel HARMONIC VIBRATIONS...
I’d bet there are subtle factory adjustments over the model years. Mine is a 2014, and the idle only bumps up in M mode. Reading the above threads, it looks like maybe Mercedes made model year changes where S and S+ began also bumping up the idle.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
uneven CONTRIBUTIONS causes harmonic vibrations beyond what balancer can smooth out.
You can go after the cause to get more power from better contributions.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 15, 2025 at 12:57 PM.
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It happens to some of the e63's but not all of them, doesn't happen on mine. It's been discussed here before for sure.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...itching-s.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...servation.html
I see! Thank you. Not much concrete then unfortunately, and doesnt seem to be too consistent either, but something id definitely keep an eye out for on a test drive! Thank you very much
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W212 E63 S AMG
I have done the solenoid disable and moved to 5w50, but have not done the ALT-LIN disable yet
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Posts: 11,958
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
What contributions do you suggest checking?
The idle is consistent and on target and stable compared to older logs - and it's putting down 3.2 to 3.4 0-60 times consistently. It seems like some system going wrong would cause one or both of these to show signs of trouble.
I have done the solenoid disable and moved to 5w50
but have not done the ALT-LIN disable yet.
The idle is consistent and on target and stable compared to older logs - and it's putting down 3.2 to 3.4 0-60 times consistently. It seems like some system going wrong would cause one or both of these to show signs of trouble.
I have done the solenoid disable and moved to 5w50
but have not done the ALT-LIN disable yet.
but something causing engine vibrations.
We can cancel that out likely for free.
How long ago was your 5w50 upgrade ??
These damn GDI computers are touchy sensitive for better or worst. We just need to help engine please ECU... to give us more fuel/power.
Do the "whole" ALT-LIN with reboot + battery float charge up.
How would you rate your ignition:
How old plugs? boots? coils? gaps?
How old are Lambdas ?
LTFT-1 / -2 at warm idle ??
Let's cover the basics before considering compressions check while dealing with plugs.
> BALANCING ACT...:
GDI is really affected by unstable timings. An effective seal keep crank rotation predictable.
When every piston...
is at the right position
at the right time
with the right mixture
then contribution is perfect.
All penalties translate in leaner mixture.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 15, 2025 at 05:19 PM.
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Posts: 215
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W212 E63 S AMG
Several months ago - probably at least 8k miles
I plan on it... but there's just no access to that plug without dropping the steering rack, which I am not interested in doing. I tried installing a switch on the ECU pin that ALT-LIN leads to, but that line also addresses the oil-temp sensor, so it's not a good solution. I'll be replacing all the idler pulleys soon, along with the A2D intake, so maybe I'll be able to get it unplugged when I have things more open
The plugs have about 17k miles on them. I think the boots and coils are original.
Im not sure what you mean here... isn't the lambda value an AFR derivative data value? What do you mean "how old" are they?
Based on my most recent log (2 months old) They bank 1 and 2 AFRs are right where they should be and track the commanded values. I'll gather a new log as soon as I can
I plan on it... but there's just no access to that plug without dropping the steering rack, which I am not interested in doing. I tried installing a switch on the ECU pin that ALT-LIN leads to, but that line also addresses the oil-temp sensor, so it's not a good solution. I'll be replacing all the idler pulleys soon, along with the A2D intake, so maybe I'll be able to get it unplugged when I have things more open
Im not sure what you mean here... isn't the lambda value an AFR derivative data value? What do you mean "how old" are they?
Based on my most recent log (2 months old) They bank 1 and 2 AFRs are right where they should be and track the commanded values. I'll gather a new log as soon as I can
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I’d bet there are subtle factory adjustments over the model years. Mine is a 2014, and the idle only bumps up in M mode. Reading the above threads, it looks like maybe Mercedes made model year changes where S and S+ began also bumping up the idle.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
it would be nice if mine did that in S And S+… I’m about 2 years in on billet/poly engine mounts and I’m getting a harmonic vibration that resonates through the cabin and mirrors. Is not huge, but can be annoying… it seems to be getting stronger over time. Hopefully my mounts arent failing or something. Sometimes I put it in M mode just to stop it from doing that.
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Good point, it does seem like even TCU updates could affect this (as in rpm and engine behaviour) behaviour for example, some 2017-2018 (so other models) model year vehicles that got an update in 2019 that forces a "cold start" despite temperatures already warm.
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Several months ago - probably at least 8k miles
I plan on it... but there's just no access to that plug without dropping the steering rack, which I am not interested in doing. I tried installing a switch on the ECU pin that ALT-LIN leads to, but that line also addresses the oil-temp sensor, so it's not a good solution. I'll be replacing all the idler pulleys soon, along with the A2D intake, so maybe I'll be able to get it unplugged when I have things more open
The plugs have about 17k miles on them. I think the boots and coils are original.
Im not sure what you mean here... isn't the lambda value an AFR derivative data value?
What do you mean "how old" are they?
Based on my most recent log (2 months old) They bank 1 and 2 AFRs are right where they should be and track the commanded values. I'll gather a new log as soon as I can
I plan on it... but there's just no access to that plug without dropping the steering rack, which I am not interested in doing. I tried installing a switch on the ECU pin that ALT-LIN leads to, but that line also addresses the oil-temp sensor, so it's not a good solution. I'll be replacing all the idler pulleys soon, along with the A2D intake, so maybe I'll be able to get it unplugged when I have things more open
The plugs have about 17k miles on them. I think the boots and coils are original.
Im not sure what you mean here... isn't the lambda value an AFR derivative data value?
What do you mean "how old" are they?
Based on my most recent log (2 months old) They bank 1 and 2 AFRs are right where they should be and track the commanded values. I'll gather a new log as soon as I can
What the total current mileage... 80kMi?
17kMi plugs are likely good....
You can keep the coils but do replace the cheap boots. They have a built in resistor carbon stack...
check all gaps are either exat or under gaped to ensure reliable spark.
Wider gaps make longer sparks BUT with UNRELIABLE TIMINGS = no-no!!
The ECU prefers shorter reliable sparks (decrease by 1/10th).
STABLE VOLTAGE...
You can experiment with the BATT-LIN sensor disconnected. It has super easy access unlike ALT-LIN. Find a way to log the voltage, see that it remains stable.
I have not tested this BATT-LIN mod.
LAMBDA SENSOR...
Old dirty sensors have slower response that leans out AF mixture.
Replace as you see fit on or before 90kMi based on how much oil the engine uses through PCV or pistons rings... either way it deposits carbon on the dirty Lambdas.
Its not a killer priority, its due when milage is up without waiting for the heater circuit to go open.
Lambda help ECU compute the AFR.
From your logs and generally good performance we can guess you don't have any fuel pressure issues.
From there youll want to measure/comp your cyl compressions.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 16, 2025 at 03:23 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 215
Likes: 77
W212 E63 S AMG
RELIABLE IGNITION...
What the total current mileage... 80kMi?
17kMi plugs are likely good....
You can keep the coils but do replace the cheap boots. They have a built in resistor carbon stack...
check all gaps are either exat or under gaped to ensure reliable spark.
Wider gaps make longer sparks BUT with UNRELIABLE TIMINGS = no-no!!
The ECU prefers shorter reliable sparks (decrease by 1/10th).
STABLE VOLTAGE...
You can experiment with the BATT-LIN sensor disconnected. It has super easy access unlike ALT-LIN. Find a way to log the voltage, see that it remains stable.
I have not tested this BATT-LIN mod.
LAMBDA SENSOR...
Old dirty sensors have slower response that leans out AF mixture.
Replace as you see fit on or before 90kMi based on how much oil the engine uses through PCV or pistons rings... either way it deposits carbon on the dirty Lambdas.
Its not a killer priority, its due when milage is up without waiting for the heater circuit to go open.
Lambda help ECU compute the AFR.
From your logs and generally good performance we can guess you don't have any fuel pressure issues.
From there youll want to measure/comp your cyl compressions.
What the total current mileage... 80kMi?
17kMi plugs are likely good....
You can keep the coils but do replace the cheap boots. They have a built in resistor carbon stack...
check all gaps are either exat or under gaped to ensure reliable spark.
Wider gaps make longer sparks BUT with UNRELIABLE TIMINGS = no-no!!
The ECU prefers shorter reliable sparks (decrease by 1/10th).
STABLE VOLTAGE...
You can experiment with the BATT-LIN sensor disconnected. It has super easy access unlike ALT-LIN. Find a way to log the voltage, see that it remains stable.
I have not tested this BATT-LIN mod.
LAMBDA SENSOR...
Old dirty sensors have slower response that leans out AF mixture.
Replace as you see fit on or before 90kMi based on how much oil the engine uses through PCV or pistons rings... either way it deposits carbon on the dirty Lambdas.
Its not a killer priority, its due when milage is up without waiting for the heater circuit to go open.
Lambda help ECU compute the AFR.
From your logs and generally good performance we can guess you don't have any fuel pressure issues.
From there youll want to measure/comp your cyl compressions.
I did some logging yesterday and today and, oddly, I seem to have lost all my bank 2 sensor data... I'm using an OBD2 logger and am not sure what's going wrong. The car is behaving as normal otherwise, so I think it's just something in the OBD2 system. I noticed it not logging, reset the device (via completely unplugging it for several hours) and tried again today... no bank 2 data. It's this one
https://bankspower.com/products/bank...tal-datalogger
I may try disconnecting both batteries and to see if some module just isn't communicating for some reason. But, given how well the car is behaving, it's hard to imagine that I've actually lost all my bank 2 sensor data as far as the ECU is concerned. its very odd. I'm going to hook up a scan tool tomorrow and see if I can read bank 2 data at all - see if maybe the logger I am using is faulty
Oh, it it occurs to me that my vibration at certain idle speeds while in gear may just be the result of the new exhaust I put on. The sound itself isn't doing it, but maybe the difference in how the exhaust interacts with the manifold pressure might have something to do with it.
Last edited by QuadTurboPrius; Jun 16, 2025 at 10:18 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Banks logging cuts both ways...
My car has 75k miles
I did some logging yesterday and today and, oddly, I seem to have lost all my bank 2 sensor data... I'm using an OBD2 logger and am not sure what's going wrong. The car is behaving as normal otherwise, so I think it's just something in the OBD2 system. I noticed it not logging, reset the device (via completely unplugging it for several hours) and tried again today... no bank 2 data. It's this one
https://bankspower.com/products/bank...tal-datalogger
I may try disconnecting both batteries and to see if some module just isn't communicating for some reason. But, given how well the car is behaving, it's hard to imagine that I've actually lost all my bank 2 sensor data as far as the ECU is concerned. its very odd. I'm going to hook up a scan tool tomorrow and see if I can read bank 2 data at all - see if maybe the logger I am using is faulty
Oh, it it occurs to me that my vibration at certain idle speeds while in gear may just be the result of the new exhaust I put on. The sound itself isn't doing it, but maybe the difference in how the exhaust interacts with the manifold pressure might have something to do with it.
I did some logging yesterday and today and, oddly, I seem to have lost all my bank 2 sensor data... I'm using an OBD2 logger and am not sure what's going wrong. The car is behaving as normal otherwise, so I think it's just something in the OBD2 system. I noticed it not logging, reset the device (via completely unplugging it for several hours) and tried again today... no bank 2 data. It's this one
https://bankspower.com/products/bank...tal-datalogger
I may try disconnecting both batteries and to see if some module just isn't communicating for some reason. But, given how well the car is behaving, it's hard to imagine that I've actually lost all my bank 2 sensor data as far as the ECU is concerned. its very odd. I'm going to hook up a scan tool tomorrow and see if I can read bank 2 data at all - see if maybe the logger I am using is faulty
Oh, it it occurs to me that my vibration at certain idle speeds while in gear may just be the result of the new exhaust I put on. The sound itself isn't doing it, but maybe the difference in how the exhaust interacts with the manifold pressure might have something to do with it.
I bet it's only the CGW that needs a reboot (+ float) - Chassis works best afterwards.
A while ago I was searching for a quick shortcut and failed to locate a fuse I could use to power cycle CGW... so I Simply Reboot the whole enchilada.
ALT-LIN stable voltage allows to reboot chassis unfrequently. Stock benefit more frequent reboot to benefit its stability.
ECU exact timings are affected by CAN activities as witnessed by a fresh reboot helping how well engine runs.
Misc modules keep dishing out tons of non-stop queries for Rpm (ECU) and speed (ESP) and steering angle (LED HL) and torque (TCU)... the CGW must translate everything near real time.
The Bosch ECU and the Bosch CGW are assaulted by every module with seemingly limited way to guard core performance.
Solderless help generate higher traffic level.
The key is to decrease latencies as much as practical ie. less unnecessary traffic.
I have found a way Mercedes uses to set members of the same CAN on different threshold levels. Disabling that should be rewarding in stability and speed. I think this unnecessary isolating detunes CAN performance. I need to survey diagrams and setup a test plan.
I realize that every time we cancel artificial instabilities, we rope in more performance:
- Limited oil pressure
- chassis voltage swings
- engine heat extremes
- now CAN bandwidth
MS using Banks loggers captured actionable field data. Now you know not to log 24x7 to preseve MB performance or reboot more frequently.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 17, 2025 at 12:29 AM.
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Posts: 11,958
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
TESTING BATT-LIN VOLTAGE
Let me locate that thread... I recall linking REBOOT procedure as a part of ALT-LIN thread.
"Reboot procedure" may be used to sanitize chassis benefit BATT-LIN as well.
Test BATT-LIN to see how it interacts with ECU voltage control of ALT.
The flip side is BATT-LINmay increase CGW traffic between ECU and R-SAM which ALT-LIN does not.
Expect IC-Display of "Volt/Batt" data to read blanks... Use a $10 cig-lighter "usbPwr/voltage reader" to monitor chassis voltage while driving.
Low voltage while driving effectively "limp-modes" the stock setup: Do keep an eye on voltage until you trust BATT-LIN !!
"Reboot procedure" may be used to sanitize chassis benefit BATT-LIN as well.
Test BATT-LIN to see how it interacts with ECU voltage control of ALT.
The flip side is BATT-LIN
Expect IC-Display of "Volt/Batt" data to read blanks... Use a $10 cig-lighter "usbPwr/voltage reader" to monitor chassis voltage while driving.
Low voltage while driving effectively "limp-modes" the stock setup: Do keep an eye on voltage until you trust BATT-LIN !!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 17, 2025 at 02:17 PM. Reason: reboot thread
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Posts: 215
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W212 E63 S AMG
Let me locate that thread... I recall linking REBOOT procedure as a part of ALT-LIN thread.
"Reboot procedure" may be used to sanitize chassis benefit BATT-LIN as well.
Test BATT-LIN to see how it interacts with ECU voltage control of ALT.
The flip side is BATT-LINmay increase CGW traffic between ECU and R-SAM which ALT-LIN does not.
Expect IC-Display of "Volt/Batt" data to read blanks... Use a $10 cig-lighter "usbPwr/voltage reader" to monitor chassis voltage while driving.
Low voltage while driving effectively "limp-modes" the stock setup: Do keep an eye on voltage until you trust BATT-LIN !!
"Reboot procedure" may be used to sanitize chassis benefit BATT-LIN as well.
Test BATT-LIN to see how it interacts with ECU voltage control of ALT.
The flip side is BATT-LIN
Expect IC-Display of "Volt/Batt" data to read blanks... Use a $10 cig-lighter "usbPwr/voltage reader" to monitor chassis voltage while driving.
Low voltage while driving effectively "limp-modes" the stock setup: Do keep an eye on voltage until you trust BATT-LIN !!
After this, I tested the BATT-LIN disconnect... this is not a viable alternative to ALT-LIN disconnect on my car:
- The voltage was centered around 14.1v instead of the typical 14.4v to14.8v, as with the ALT-LIN, but was NOT fully stable. I still observed swings from 13.5v to 14.4v.
- Eco-mode was default-disabled, but the car also had random other behaviors -- After being parked overnight and beginning my commute this morning, it would not use 7th gear and would not respond to my paddle requests to shift into 7th gear. Who knows what else it was doing that I didn't detect. I pulled over and reconnected it for the remainder of my commute.
I'll try to get to the ALT-LIN this weekend if I can sneak away for long enough to do some maintenance (replace idler pulleys and install A2D intake)
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
strong chassis performance
I fixed my logging issue - the Banks logger needed a profile reset, which causes a reboot of the logger.
After this, I tested the BATT-LIN disconnect... this is not a viable alternative to ALT-LIN disconnect on my car:
- The voltage was centered around 14.1v instead of the typical 14.4v to14.8v, as with the ALT-LIN, but was NOT fully stable. I still observed swings from 13.5v to 14.4v.
- Eco-mode was default-disabled, but the car also had random other behaviors -- After being parked overnight and beginning my commute this morning, it would not use 7th gear and would not respond to my paddle requests to shift into 7th gear. Who knows what else it was doing that I didn't detect. I pulled over and reconnected it for the remainder of my commute.
I'll try to get to the ALT-LIN this weekend if I can sneak away for long enough to do some maintenance (replace idler pulleys and install A2D intake)
After this, I tested the BATT-LIN disconnect... this is not a viable alternative to ALT-LIN disconnect on my car:
- The voltage was centered around 14.1v instead of the typical 14.4v to14.8v, as with the ALT-LIN, but was NOT fully stable. I still observed swings from 13.5v to 14.4v.
- Eco-mode was default-disabled, but the car also had random other behaviors -- After being parked overnight and beginning my commute this morning, it would not use 7th gear and would not respond to my paddle requests to shift into 7th gear. Who knows what else it was doing that I didn't detect. I pulled over and reconnected it for the remainder of my commute.
I'll try to get to the ALT-LIN this weekend if I can sneak away for long enough to do some maintenance (replace idler pulleys and install A2D intake)
The "lazy paddle shifter" is an interesting poor networking side effect.
You can try to manually shift but the signal from SCM does not reach TCU through CGW!
This can also be a local issue with the steering wheel LIN bus to the main steering SCM . The whole steering wheel + column is "pressed pins"...
See how this fares with basic "reboot + float" - Both Main/Aux batteries disconnected.
W212 chassis is proven VOLTAGE SENSITIVE!!
Knowing this we turn around that feature in our favor with "ALT-LIN steps" for stable electricals.
Enjoy robust performance.
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Posts: 32,364
Likes: 6,322
I fixed my logging issue - the Banks logger needed a profile reset, which causes a reboot of the logger.
After this, I tested the BATT-LIN disconnect... this is not a viable alternative to ALT-LIN disconnect on my car:
- The voltage was centered around 14.1v instead of the typical 14.4v to14.8v, as with the ALT-LIN, but was NOT fully stable. I still observed swings from 13.5v to 14.4v.
- Eco-mode was default-disabled, but the car also had random other behaviors -- After being parked overnight and beginning my commute this morning, it would not use 7th gear and would not respond to my paddle requests to shift into 7th gear. Who knows what else it was doing that I didn't detect. I pulled over and reconnected it for the remainder of my commute.
I'll try to get to the ALT-LIN this weekend if I can sneak away for long enough to do some maintenance (replace idler pulleys and install A2D intake)
After this, I tested the BATT-LIN disconnect... this is not a viable alternative to ALT-LIN disconnect on my car:
- The voltage was centered around 14.1v instead of the typical 14.4v to14.8v, as with the ALT-LIN, but was NOT fully stable. I still observed swings from 13.5v to 14.4v.
- Eco-mode was default-disabled, but the car also had random other behaviors -- After being parked overnight and beginning my commute this morning, it would not use 7th gear and would not respond to my paddle requests to shift into 7th gear. Who knows what else it was doing that I didn't detect. I pulled over and reconnected it for the remainder of my commute.
I'll try to get to the ALT-LIN this weekend if I can sneak away for long enough to do some maintenance (replace idler pulleys and install A2D intake)
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,364
Likes: 6,322
