W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

spongy brake pedal after bleeding

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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 05:25 PM
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spongy brake pedal after bleeding

Done the bleeding many times before without any problem but not so lucky this time. When I first opened the bleeder, it turned back close by itself. I thought something get stuck so I kept pushing the brake pedal hard. Maybe the one of the seal got damage? I though maybe there were air trap inside so I did all over again, 2 more times in 1 week. There were no air bubble found both times but the spongy brake pedal is still there. I checked the brake lines and calipers and did not find any leak. Is there anyway this can be repaired?

Last edited by dustinN; Feb 24, 2026 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 07:38 PM
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Are you pointing at the master cylinder piston seals gone defective after bleeding?

That's very possible if you squeezed hard on a long pedal with too much travel caused by open bleeders. Sometimes MC leaks inside the vacuum booster.

That's where vacuum or pressure bleeders come in for no-pedal bleeding.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 24, 2026 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Are you pointing at the master cylinder piston seals gone defective after bleeding?

That's very possible if you squeezed hard on a long pedal with too much travel caused by open bleeders. Sometimes MC leaks inside the vacuum booster.

That's where vacuum or pressure bleeders come in for no-pedal bleeding.
That's whatever I thought but I am not sure. If the master cylinder's seal was bad, can I replace just the seal or the whole master cylider? Are there other seal beside the master cylinder one?
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
That's whatever I thought but I am not sure.

If the master cylinder's seal was bad, can I replace just the seal or the whole master cylider?

Are there other seal beside the master cylinder one?
Whatever you decide you must have confidence in your brakes to stop on a dime.

Are genuine MC rebuilt kits available ??

You can throw in a new set of flexible stainless steel brake lines to replace aged factory rubber lines.



Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 25, 2026 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 08:44 AM
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Was this a brake fluid flush and replace? What method did you use, and did you mess with the ABS?
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 08:55 AM
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Lets look at reality...if they worked well before you bled them and now they dont...well, you did it wrong and have air in the lines (easy to do). You need to properly bleed the breaks...then, rock solid.
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 10:53 AM
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Yes, know i did not do ít correctly. I used the new one way valve, in theory there should not be any air trap in the lines. I wasted 3 littlers of fluid to bleed ít again and again. The problem is i dont know how I messed ít up. I did not see any air bubbles when I bled ít. I found a couple clips about bleeding the air out of the master cylinder. Maybe there is air tráp in the master cylinder. I would like to try this but dont know how to do ít on our cars.

Last edited by dustinN; Feb 25, 2026 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 11:11 AM
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I've used the Motive pressurized bottle that connects to the brake fluid reservoir method on 3 of my cars a couple times without any problem. This is the method MB prescribes in WIS/ASRA.
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Old Feb 26, 2026 | 11:17 AM
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Brake master cylinder

Hello, same thing happened to me, i tried to bleed the brakes on my w212 and after doing so the brake felt spongy, re-bled them multiple times with a pressurized pump but nothing, tried with xentry in the abs module but that only pumped it up and the brake pedal felt normal at first but after pressing it 2 times it was soft again. I ordered a new used brake cylinder pump and today it arrived, I will replace it and i will come back to this forum to tell you if it fixed my issue or not.
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 02:47 PM
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Spongy brake

Im here to update everyone following the thread, after i changed the master brake cylinder and bled the whole system again, the brake did improve but it still doesnt work as it used to, I took the car out on a test drive and when the pedal is pressed it slowly goes down and when pressed again it builds pressure (as it should), when slamming the brake pedal (eg. Emergency braking) its hard as a rock. The only time the brake pedal is soft/spongy is when being pressed for the first time. It could also mean that the master brake cylinder i bought had worn out seals but nonetheless it still works better than with my old master cylinder. Im not ready to buy a new brake master cylinder since they cost upwards of high 3 to low 4 digit figures...

To the reply above me, the w212 doesnt have sbc, only the w211 had sbc and it was such a complicated and unnecessary system that mercedes just scrapped it after using it on one model, but thank you for telling us to check wis, I will do that and report back in some time if i find anything..
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 02:51 PM
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Wait...what does it do when the car is not running? How many pumps till it is brick hard?
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 04:17 PM
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race to fixed

Originally Posted by Merc Benzz
Im here to update everyone following the thread, after i changed the master brake cylinder and bled the whole system again, the brake did improve but it still doesnt work as it used to, I took the car out on a test drive and when the pedal is pressed it slowly goes down and when pressed again it builds pressure (as it should), when slamming the brake pedal (eg. Emergency braking) its hard as a rock. The only time the brake pedal is soft/spongy is when being pressed for the first time. It could also mean that the master brake cylinder i bought had worn out seals but nonetheless it still works better than with my old master cylinder. Im not ready to buy a new brake master cylinder since they cost upwards of high 3 to low 4 digit figures...

To the reply above me, the w212 doesnt have sbc, only the w211 had sbc and it was such a complicated and unnecessary system that mercedes just scrapped it after using it on one model, but thank you for telling us to check wis, I will do that and report back in some time if i find anything..
If I understood correctly (?) small to no improvement with a second MC, right?

That means the issue is on the car side not the MC itself, right?

Then back to: one of the wheel has an air bubble. Whole system has been bled 3x...

When / How did serious air get in??


> PLAN B: do not use the MC at all to pump during wheel bleeding.
Use a different method: either pressure or vacuum?
note when air comes out.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 27, 2026 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 06:26 PM
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did I read this OPs post correctly? he has installed a used master cyl? now I know why some states have mandatory vehicle inspections..
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
Wait...what does it do when the car is not running? How many pumps till it is brick hard?
it didnt make a difference if the engine was running or not, on the old mc pump the brake pedal always felt spongy (it was going down quickly and it wasnt building pressure), on the new mc pump only the first time when the brake is pressed it is spongy and it builds up resistance on the 2nd or 3rd press.

Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
If I understood correctly (?) small to no improvement with a second MC, right?

That means the issue is on the car side not the MC itself, right?

Then back to: one of the wheel has an air bubble. Whole system has been bled 3x...

When / How did serious air get in??


> PLAN B: do not use the MC at all to pump during wheel bleeding.
Use a different method: either pressure or vacuum?
note when air comes out.
very big improvement with the second mc pump because this time i can actually brake, it could still be the mc because i bought it used... air got in because i brought my car to a friend to change the brakes but he just took of the caliper and left it to stay for a couple of days which is eventually how im assuming air got in. I forgot to mention but i already tried to bleeding them with pressure but barely any air got out.

Originally Posted by juststeve
did I read this OPs post correctly? he has installed a used master cyl? now I know why some states have mandatory vehicle inspections..
no you did not read OP's post, i am not OP, im just another member of the forum with the same issue. I also see you complaining that i bought a used mc, would you like to donate over a thounsand dollars to me so i can buy a new one?

Last edited by Merc Benzz; Feb 28, 2026 at 08:14 AM. Reason: Information
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc Benzz
it didnt make a difference if the engine was running or not, on the old mc pump the brake pedal always felt spongy (it was going down quickly and it wasnt building pressure), on the new mc pump only the first time when the brake is pressed it is spongy and it builds up resistance on the 2nd or 3rd press.

very big improvement with the second mc pump because this time i can actually brake, it could still be the mc because i bought it used... air got in because i brought my car to a friend to change the brakes but he just took of the caliper and left it to stay for a couple of days which is eventually how im assuming air got in. I forgot to mention but i already tried to bleeding them with pressure but barely any air got out.

no you did not read OP's post, i am not OP, im just another member of the forum with the same issue. I also see you complaining that i bought a used mc, would you like to donate over a thounsand dollars to me so i can buy a new one?
"Used" or "rebuilt"? How can you tell a "used" MC doesn't have a worse defect than the MC you removed? $1000 is pocket change compared to the consequences of failed brakes.
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by streborx
"Used" or "rebuilt"? How can you tell a "used" MC doesn't have a worse defect than the MC you removed? $1000 is pocket change compared to the consequences of failed brakes.
So you only buy new cars?....Silly statement to think something used by someone else cant be better than what you currently have. Bigger problem is that the bad diagnosis led to an unrepaired issue.

Op, You have air in the system...
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Baltistyle
So you only buy new cars?....Silly statement to think something used by someone else cant be better than what you currently have. Bigger problem is that the bad diagnosis led to an unrepaired issue.

Op, You have air in the system...
Yes, I buy only new cars, but I keep them for a long time and conscientiously maintain them. I did a full brake system rebuild on my '95 Jeep this past year -- new MC, new pads, new rotors, new rear shoes, springs and cylinders -- everything except for the brake lines and front calipers, which I inspected. And all new parts. In total, maybe not quite the cost of of a MB MC, but still $$ in parts and my time. People seem to overlook that their poorly maintained cars create a hazard to other drivers. It's not just accepting the consequences that impact you.
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc Benzz
... air got in because i brought my car to a friend to change the brakes but he just took of the caliper and left it to stay for a couple of days which is eventually how im assuming air got in. I forgot to mention but i already tried to bleeding them with pressure but barely any air got out.
I changed calipers and left the car with no calipers almost all summer and not a lot of air went in, just a regular pedal bleed and all was good.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...t-numbers.html

Here’s a PDF from WIS
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...660d1620788318

From this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lp-please.html

Good luck! A caliper removal shouldn’t cause this much hassle. There’s probably air somewhere. Maybe bite the bullet and have a dealer bleed it.
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 11:25 AM
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If you think there's air in the caliper, seating the pistons inward as far as they will go prior to bleeding might help
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 08:13 PM
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Try tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet as You open the bleeder. This may dislodge any trapped air.
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by streborx
Yes, I buy only new cars, but I keep them for a long time and conscientiously maintain them. I did a full brake system rebuild on my '95 Jeep this past year -- new MC, new pads, new rotors, new rear shoes, springs and cylinders -- everything except for the brake lines and front calipers, which I inspected. And all new parts. In total, maybe not quite the cost of of a MB MC, but still $$ in parts and my time. People seem to overlook that their poorly maintained cars create a hazard to other drivers. It's not just accepting the consequences that impact you.
I think you missed my point.

Ive never bought a new car, and never had a safety issue. A well maintained car is achieved many ways. All my cars are kept and drive as new. Zero rust on my 20 year old truck (nice to see you keeping a nice old vehicle on the road) and zero maintenance needs. On many older vehicles, new is not available, and used is better than aftermarket.
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 07:56 PM
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I didn't read every response here but I dealt with something similar. I took my calipers off my car for a month while I refinished them. When I went to put the car back together, I bled each corner with my pressure bleeder and it worked great. Only problem was, my pedal would sink to the floor when the car was on. Long story short, I had air in my ABS pump. My Autel scanner couldn't talk to my ABS pump so I bought one that could. Well that didn't work either. So I tucked tail and limped my E63 to the nearest Mercedes dealer. 40 mins later (and $325 poorer) my car was perfect. Sounds like you have air in the ABS pump.
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Baltistyle
I think you missed my point.

Ive never bought a new car, and never had a safety issue. A well maintained car is achieved many ways. All my cars are kept and drive as new. Zero rust on my 20 year old truck (nice to see you keeping a nice old vehicle on the road) and zero maintenance needs. On many older vehicles, new is not available, and used is better than aftermarket.
You might have missed my point. There's nothing wrong with "rebuilt" -- I changed out my Jeep's transfer case with a rebuilt unit from a reputable supplier (and returned mine which by now has been rebuilt and installed in someone else's Jeep). I did not purchase a salvaged used transfer case from some ebay seller who was assuring buyers that it was still "perfect" or "in good condition".
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Borahatch
I didn't read every response here but I dealt with something similar. I took my calipers off my car for a month while I refinished them. When I went to put the car back together, I bled each corner with my pressure bleeder and it worked great. Only problem was, my pedal would sink to the floor when the car was on. Long story short, I had air in my ABS pump. My Autel scanner couldn't talk to my ABS pump so I bought one that could. Well that didn't work either. So I tucked tail and limped my E63 to the nearest Mercedes dealer. 40 mins later (and $325 poorer) my car was perfect. Sounds like you have air in the ABS pump.
Yours is an interesting experience. AFAIK, a normal brake fluid replacement does not require messing with the ABS, which holds only a small amount of the system's fluid. If your brake system bled out much of its fluid during the month your calipers were disconnected, the ABS held fluid could have been lost through siphoning effects, and ensuring its replacement involved a special "$325" procedure. Next time I'm navigating through WIS, I'll see what it says about purging air from the ABS.
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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 01:18 PM
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For a piece of mind, I took the car to the dealer and let them flush the brake fuid. Luckily, nothing broken, there are still air trapped inside, changing the fluid was all I need. I did this job many times before but I messed it up this time. Just because its a one way valve doesn't mean it won't suck the air back. Thank you all.

Last edited by dustinN; Mar 7, 2026 at 01:20 PM.
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