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Nashville potholes destroying my OEM rims

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Old May 12, 2025 | 10:03 AM
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Nashville potholes destroying my OEM rims

The 20-inch OEM rims on my 2018 E63S AMG Wagon have been problematic ever since I moved to the Nashville, TN area. Potholes here are worse than anything I have encountered elsewhere! Every single rim has been bent and needed repair at least once, and a couple have been twice.

Now I seem to be out of luck. The right rear rim is somehow bent in the center and wobbles. The wheel repair guy says this one cannot be fixed.

I'm thinking it might be a good idea to go from the 20-inch rims to 19-inch so I can get a little more rubber between the road and the rim.

It seems likely that these roads are going to continue to beat up my wagon, so I'd like to find rims that look good, are very strong and that don't break the bank since I am likely to need to replace them again sooner than I would want to.

Does anyone have any thoughts about what to use? Have any of you had a similar experience?

Last edited by rickross; May 12, 2025 at 10:09 AM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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I hate to say it, but you may wanna consider a different car altogether. With that many impacts causing wheels to bend or crack, your suspension has likely taken a beating as well and may start to fail eventually. These cars are simply not suitable for the kinds of roads you are describing. If you cannot avoid the potholes, then it's time to get a car with more suspension travel and wheels with much taller sidewall tires. An inch more isn't gonna do it. Part of the problem is that your suspension bottoms out if you crash into a pothole, so whatever is the weakest link will just bend. If it's not the wheels, then it's gonna be the suspension parts eventually. As far as strength of the wheels goes, making a wheel stronger also makes it heavier, which will increase unsprung mass and make the suspension have to work even harder over those bad roads increasing the wear of it and negatively impact ride quality. The forged AMG wheels while strong are also light, but you gonna bend them if you drive through potholes and as said, if it's not the wheels that bend first, then it's gonna be suspension parts eventually.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 12:38 PM
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It's harsh news, but you may be right. For the moment getting a new car it isn't a good option, so I will need to make do with this one and try my best to avoid hitting the potholes!

I'm going to try some Lexani Aries wheels rather than spring for another set of OEM wheels. At about $400 each they are not quite as painful to replace. Hopefully this will return the car to a smooth ride without breaking the bank.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 02:13 PM
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Springboarding on what superswiss said, in the vein of the weakest link(not the game show), in any system the weakest part is usually where the failure will happen. The obvious solution, is to strengthen that part. But this only results in another component in the system now being the weakest part, where all the failure forces will concentrate.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
It's harsh news, but you may be right. For the moment getting a new car it isn't a good option, so I will need to make do with this one and try my best to avoid hitting the potholes!

I'm going to try some Lexani Aries wheels rather than spring for another set of OEM wheels. At about $400 each they are not quite as painful to replace. Hopefully this will return the car to a smooth ride without breaking the bank.
Just keep in mind that wheels and tires are easy to fix/replace, but if you start breaking other components, it will get expensive. Even if you need a new wheel, chances are you can find a refurbished one for much less than a brand new wheel. There are sensitive components in these cars. Too many impacts in the front can eventually crack your dynamic engine mounts. Those are an expensive engine out repair. The air suspension is also known to fail eventually. It may seem cheap to get $400 wheels trying to solve the issue until more expensive components start to fail.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 02:46 PM
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All of the Amg wheels I have owned from c32 17” to w211 e55 18” and C55 18” have been prone to cracking. All of the aftermarket Chinese wheels have been much stronger to the point of bending , but not cracking.


The Amg ones and lighter rennline wheels I have crack and when repaired crack immediately next to the weld. I have Vossen 19” and 20” wheels that have taken quite a beating and even destroyed tires but the wheels weren’t bent. I had the cheapest Chinese knockoff wheels on the e55 and hit a pothole that broke the weak subframe bolts, bent the wheels , but the repair shop bent it back and it wasn’t cracked.

The only Amg wheels I have that are strong are the early 2000s style 3 wheels that are on the sl55, those are strong, but the rest aren’t good. Maybe you can step back to 19” and get a slight bit more rubber between the wheel and the road.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
The 20-inch OEM rims on my 2018 E63S AMG Wagon have been problematic ever since I moved to the Nashville, TN area. Potholes here are worse than anything I have encountered elsewhere! Every single rim has been bent and needed repair at least once, and a couple have been twice.

Now I seem to be out of luck. The right rear rim is somehow bent in the center and wobbles. The wheel repair guy says this one cannot be fixed.

I'm thinking it might be a good idea to go from the 20-inch rims to 19-inch so I can get a little more rubber between the road and the rim.

It seems likely that these roads are going to continue to beat up my wagon, so I'd like to find rims that look good, are very strong and that don't break the bank since I am likely to need to replace them again sooner than I would want to.

Does anyone have any thoughts about what to use? Have any of you had a similar experience?
check out this link, you'll see three threads in a row in this sticky that discusses suspension issues between the various models of this platform as well as downsizing to 19 inch wheels and what that can offer., Just food for thought, and it may not help your situation (posts 142 and 143):

https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...ml#post9150037
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:31 PM
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Since I am planning on keeping the E63 wagon I guess I really have only three available choices: (1) do nothing and drive with the unfixable, bent OEM wheel; (2) get a new OEM wheel to replace the bent one; (3) find another wheel or set of wheels to replace my OEM wheels.

Doing nothing leaves the car feeling horrible, so it is out. Buying another OEM wheel or set of wheels would be expensive and probably lead to the same outcome again. Buying a new set of different wheels may cause different stresses on the vehicle and even lead to something else breaking, but it may be the most practical of my available options. I'm not 100% sure, but most of the time I'm not 100% sure, anyway.

So, the question becomes: "which wheels to replace the OEM wheels with?" Spending $2K-$3K per wheel for the gorgeous, forged wheels feels scary given the history. I'm glad to hear that some others here have done okay with less expensive aftermarket wheels.

Ideally, I would have preferred to go with 19-inch wheels and put a little more rubber between the road and the vehicle, but apparently this is a no-go due to the size of the brake calipers. Has anyone else here run an E63 wagon on 19-inch rims?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:33 PM
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Thank, I'll take a look. I was advised that I can't go to 19-inch rims because of the size of my brake calipers. Is this incorrect?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
Thank, I'll take a look. I was advised that I can't go to 19-inch rims because of the size of my brake calipers. Is this incorrect?
it's in that link up there, here you go I'll make it easier - yes you can do 19

https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...ml#post8381432

Last edited by PeterUbers; May 12, 2025 at 03:38 PM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 04:26 PM
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but this looks pretty scary, the guy says he destroyed his brakes with 19-inch rims - cautionary tale...

https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...ml#post8882508

Last edited by rickross; May 12, 2025 at 04:29 PM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
but this looks pretty scary, the guy says he destroyed his brakes with 19-inch rims - cautionary tale...

https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...ml#post8882508
He has the optional carbon ceramic brakes which are larger than the standard steel brakes. Which brakes do you have? But in general, it comes down to wheel design and proper offsets. Not every 19" wheel may clear the brakes, particularly the CCBs. 19" is the outer dimension of the wheel, that doesn't say anything about whether the inside drum and spokes will clear the brake calipers. Especially cast wheels will be thicker and have less room for the brakes.

Last edited by superswiss; May 12, 2025 at 04:35 PM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
He has the optional carbon ceramic brakes which are larger than the standard steel brakes. Which brakes do you have? But in general, it comes down to wheel design and proper offsets. Not every 19" wheel may clear the brakes, particularly the CCBs. 19" is the outer dimension of the wheel, that doesn't say anything about whether the inside drum and spokes will clear the brake calipers. Especially cast wheels will be thicker and have less room for the brakes.
Excellent points! I do not believe I have carbon ceramic brakes. My window sticker did not mention anything except that the brakes were painted red, and I believe the CCB are a pricey optional upgrade.

What you mention about the cast wheels being thicker is very significant. I wonder how much minimum clearance is prudent to maintain between the brake calipers and the inside drum? Maybe it is a better idea to just stick with the 20's and try running lower pressures and more carefully avoiding the potholes.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
Excellent points! I do not believe I have carbon ceramic brakes. My window sticker did not mention anything except that the brakes were painted red, and I believe the CCB are a pricey optional upgrade.

What you mention about the cast wheels being thicker is very significant. I wonder how much minimum clearance is prudent to maintain between the brake calipers and the inside drum? Maybe it is a better idea to just stick with the 20's and try running lower pressures and more carefully avoiding the potholes.
The CCB calipers are bronze. Red calipers are the composite steel brakes.

This is from the C63 order guide, but it shows the different brakes AMG offers. Yes, the CCBs are an expensive option.


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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
... try running lower pressures and more carefully avoiding the potholes.
DO NOT DO THAT! Lower pressure will aggravate the issue. You need to run with higher pressure to reduce the chance of the pothole punching all the way through the tire and come in contact with the wheel.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:15 PM
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U70, the red calipers, is the exact option on my window sticker.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
it's in that link up there, here you go I'll make it easier - yes you can do 19

https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...ml#post8381432
The 19” MB AMG wheels used for the winter setup are pretty good looking. You’d add a little rubber meat and probably with all season tires not be super sloppy when pushing the car a little.
That’s a guess.
You can also order them offset.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wgnlust
The 19” MB AMG wheels used for the winter setup are pretty good looking. You’d add a little rubber meat and probably with all season tires not be super sloppy when pushing the car a little.
That’s a guess.
You can also order them offset.
Agree
I drive on the 19's with CCB's on the crappiest roads for winter and they've survived 2 seasons so far.

Cheap rims bend
Expensive rims crack
Pick your poison
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Old May 13, 2025 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
Too many impacts in the front can eventually crack your dynamic engine mounts. Those are an expensive engine out repair.
...Y'all 63 guys have dynamic engine mounts... and they can crack? And it's an engine out repair??? Oh, how I surely don't wish my E43 has those...

Originally Posted by rickross
I'm thinking it might be a good idea to go from the 20-inch rims to 19-inch so I can get a little more rubber between the road and the rim. I'd like to find rims that look good, are very strong and that don't break the bank since I am likely to need to replace them again sooner than I would want to.
It's funny how similar our situations are, I'm moving from the blessed roads of Texas to the Indiana area for university and might be driving through Ohio and Pittsburgh occasionally. Hopefully I don't have to set foot in Detroit/St. Louis but who knows.

I'm looking to get rid of my 20" RFT AMG wheels and downsize them to 19" for more ride comfort and increased durability. Have you taken a look at HRE's Flow Form FF15s? I think they look just fantastic and simple and clean but have no idea how to ensure fitment or tire pressures or tire sizes or anything of the sort.

I also don't know how to trade my wheels. I can't afford to buy a new set before getting rid of my old ones... but I also can't afford to leave my car on bricks until I sort it all out
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Old May 13, 2025 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sidnotgod
...Y'all 63 guys have dynamic engine mounts... and they can crack? And it's an engine out repair??? Oh, how I surely don't wish my E43 has those...
Any engine mount can go bad and it's an engine out repair typically. You can replace them with the engine in if there's enough room to get to them and you can support the engine somehow. Plenty of cases of regular engine mounts failing on various MB cars. The dynamic engine mounts can potentially hold up better depending on how you are driving, because they hold the engine tighter to the chassis during dynamic driving, so there is less movement that could stress the mounts. My point was more along the lines that constant shocks at the front with the suspension bottoming out puts forces all the way through the mounts. The engine is heavy and the mounts are not necessarily designed to be shocked like that constantly. Early versions of the dynamic mounts seemed to be known for excessive cracking, but AMG has revised them a few times. They don't typically crack, at least not if you don't abuse the car by driving through potholes constantly. I wouldn't give up the dynamic engine mounts. They make a noticeable difference when driving dynamically. There isn't the typical lag when cornering where you can feel that the engine isn't quite moving in lockstep with the chassis, yet they provide increased comfort by absorbing vibrations when just tooling around.

Last edited by superswiss; May 13, 2025 at 01:20 AM.
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Old May 19, 2025 | 01:21 PM
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@rickross "Maybe it is a better idea to just stick with the 20's and try running lower pressures and more carefully avoiding the potholes."

You mean higher pressures, right? Lower tire pressures will cause more rim failures. There's actually quite a bit of margin on the upside to put additional pressure in the tires (above the gas flap recommendations) to prevent snakebites (tire sidewall compressing on the rim and then rim bending... more common on bicycles). You'll have a harsher ride, but for DD and normal speeds, it's better than the alternative.

I don't know about using a Sport suspension setting. I believe Sport and Sport+ lower the suspension at all speeds by 0.6". In Comfort mode, you have to go extra legal speeds for the suspension to lower, so don't hit any freeway potholes at 80 mph. Anyhow, the Sport suspension settings have firmer damping (I assume compression and rebound) as well as spring rates (more air pressure), but given the lower suspension height, I'm not sure how that would pencil out. Better to ask your dealer their opinion.

BTW, I have a very nice looking set of black cross-spoke imitation wheels sitting in boxes. They're in excellent condition (no curb rash) and look just like OEM (dealer was fooled until they took the wheels off). Happy to sell at less than $400/wheel if you want to keep the look. I was going to sell them to someone that wanted look-alike for snow tires. Maybe Chinese wheels are stronger. My wagon has steel breaks and there was no fitment issue. PM me if interested (no pressure... wasn't the original intent of my post).
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Old May 21, 2025 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rickross
Since I am planning on keeping the E63 wagon I guess I really have only three available choices: (1) do nothing and drive with the unfixable, bent OEM wheel; (2) get a new OEM wheel to replace the bent one; (3) find another wheel or set of wheels to replace my OEM wheels.

Doing nothing leaves the car feeling horrible, so it is out. Buying another OEM wheel or set of wheels would be expensive and probably lead to the same outcome again. Buying a new set of different wheels may cause different stresses on the vehicle and even lead to something else breaking, but it may be the most practical of my available options. I'm not 100% sure, but most of the time I'm not 100% sure, anyway.

So, the question becomes: "which wheels to replace the OEM wheels with?" Spending $2K-$3K per wheel for the gorgeous, forged wheels feels scary given the history. I'm glad to hear that some others here have done okay with less expensive aftermarket wheels.

Ideally, I would have preferred to go with 19-inch wheels and put a little more rubber between the road and the vehicle, but apparently this is a no-go due to the size of the brake calipers. Has anyone else here run an E63 wagon on 19-inch rims?
You must do something because a bend rim is going cause major damage to your suspension and your wheel bearing. If the wheel wobbles enough that you can feel it even when driving slow. I would not drive the car until you replace the wheel,
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