New GT55, thoughts from a previous C63s owner

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Aug 5, 2025 | 05:30 PM
  #26  
Quote: I'm deleting my mufflers tomorrow, I already have the RT module, and just ordered the racechip piggy back, they have a decent discount on them.
I did ask my local tuning shop about the muffler delete btw and they said they wouldn’t recommend it. Something about our engines needing that back pressure and it hurting performance. *shrug* I think it would still be worth it for me for the sound
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Aug 5, 2025 | 05:31 PM
  #27  
Quote: What's that package?
Nothing in particular, just a local Instagram purchase that includes a paint correction detail and ceramic for 1k
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Aug 5, 2025 | 07:34 PM
  #28  
Quote: Ordered the EVM! Hoping to ride this mod out for a while so I have something to look forward to when (following your footsteps) and doing a muffler delete later down the road.

Next up is some appearance work. I really want a discrete spoiler like the Brabus one that I recently saw online. I also have a $1k ceramic coating package that I have sitting before I got this car with the matte paint. I’m reading both ways, some places say not to mess with ceramic on matte cars.
Dude, you need to get a PPF on the car, if you have one of the magno. I had to pay 2K to get my hood repainted after my friends mom fell on my SL while admiring it. PPF All the way, then you can ceramic coat it.
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Aug 6, 2025 | 09:38 AM
  #29  
Quote: I did ask my local tuning shop about the muffler delete btw and they said they wouldn’t recommend it. Something about our engines needing that back pressure and it hurting performance. *shrug* I think it would still be worth it for me for the sound
Its a turbo engine, the free flow helps and I have not noticed a single thing. The hard facts is the oem muffler is hardly restrictive so the gains are probably around 20-30 percent in decibels but I needed it LOL.

Obviously I dont have a dyno to prove this one way or the other but if I felt a loss of power on my roads where I test the car to about 140mph; I would revert back.
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Aug 6, 2025 | 09:40 AM
  #30  
Quote: I'm deleting my mufflers tomorrow, I already have the RT module, and just ordered the racechip piggy back, they have a decent discount on them.
Go thru Ben at RG Sport (Irwindale) if you have not ordered it. He does all my installs and RaceChip stuff too over the past 8 years. I think he is the #1 RC retailer.

The install is not fun
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Aug 7, 2025 | 12:59 PM
  #31  
"Backpressure". LOL. That was a 'thing' back in the day with naturally aspirated engines. Gee, I cut mufflers off my 289s and 428s back in the day and never had any back pressure issues...and @Vic55 is on point by saying the turbo engines don't have any need, zero need, for back pressure.

Sounds like someone just didn't want to do it and feed you a line of BS.
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Aug 7, 2025 | 03:27 PM
  #32  
Quote: "Backpressure". LOL. That was a 'thing' back in the day with naturally aspirated engines. Gee, I cut mufflers off my 289s and 428s back in the day and never had any back pressure issues...and @Vic55 is on point by saying the turbo engines don't have any need, zero need, for back pressure.

Sounds like someone just didn't want to do it and feed you a line of BS.
Thanks, I felt the same as you did but clearly I didnt articulate it as well

There are quite a few videos from experts on YT about the BS back pressure myth on turbos... I need to post that up.
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Aug 7, 2025 | 04:55 PM
  #33  
Maybe someone like benzninja can code the remote start and dynamic driving mode to your specification?
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Aug 7, 2025 | 07:54 PM
  #34  
Quote: Video might be tough since Im not driving the car for a few weeks but will do my best...

My guy is straight chop style in Santa Ana = 300 but no exhaust leaks

The Renntech Valve Controller does make a difference. You can do the ACC start up mod so that its open on firing but once you start driving in low rpms the valves do shut and open based on the rpm range. Mine never close ever.

Here is a vid of the RT rear can section = not loud enough vs stock.

Its on the SL but same sht

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4VhSICcM9w
hey bud where did you go in Santa Ana for the muffler delete?
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Aug 7, 2025 | 08:16 PM
  #35  
Quote: Dude, you need to get a PPF on the car, if you have one of the magno. I had to pay 2K to get my hood repainted after my friends mom fell on my SL while admiring it. PPF All the way, then you can ceramic coat it.
Yeah, I looked closely and the car already has PPF on the front half and bottom half of the doors. What's irking me is there is some major scuffage on the underside of the front lip that's not super visible unless you get close and look. So part of me just wants to take everything off, fix that, and re-PPF with a color that stands out more.

Quote: Its a turbo engine, the free flow helps and I have not noticed a single thing. The hard facts is the oem muffler is hardly restrictive so the gains are probably around 20-30 percent in decibels but I needed it LOL.

Obviously I dont have a dyno to prove this one way or the other but if I felt a loss of power on my roads where I test the car to about 140mph; I would revert back.
Quote: "Backpressure". LOL. That was a 'thing' back in the day with naturally aspirated engines. Gee, I cut mufflers off my 289s and 428s back in the day and never had any back pressure issues...and @Vic55 is on point by saying the turbo engines don't have any need, zero need, for back pressure.

Sounds like someone just didn't want to do it and feed you a line of BS.
Yeah it was just weird coming from a major DME tuning shop here in Houston that called the car out by C192 and everything. Anyways still on the hunt for a place that can do it. The one's I've called want a pre-fab kit to replace the mufflers with. Vic is your shop willing to make a duplicate set of your pipes to ship out to me lol
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Aug 7, 2025 | 10:48 PM
  #36  
Quote: hey bud where did you go in Santa Ana for the muffler delete?
Actually its the sister store in Orange but I first went to SA-- and they were not staffed to do it.

Plaza Muffler off Batavia
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Aug 8, 2025 | 05:54 PM
  #37  
Got muffler deleted , a little different approach to install , same result







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Aug 8, 2025 | 06:02 PM
  #38  
Quote: Got muffler deleted , a little different approach to install , same result






Looks great! Attach a sound clip if possible!
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Aug 8, 2025 | 06:36 PM
  #39  
Neon ... thoughts?

I do see your guy did go a different route than mine did.

Mine used the non valve section to be more thru and thru... 6 or 1/2 dozen
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Aug 8, 2025 | 07:27 PM
  #40  
I can definitely tell the difference, I'll post a sound clip tomorrow
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Aug 8, 2025 | 10:57 PM
  #41  
@theprototype Did you try my method of entering accessory mode, changing the drive select to sports +, then starting the car? I’d be very interested in knowing why my two AMG’s (‘25 G63 / ‘25 GT63S E-Perf 4-Door) allow this but other models don’t. I do it all the time on my GT, through an individual mode that has everything in comfort except the exhaust in powerful and the engine in sport so it actually starts. I can’t stand starting in comfort mode which defaults to electric drive and having the cold engine, with cold coolant and oil, turn on right before I’m about to get on the Highway/Freeway!

Cheers
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Aug 9, 2025 | 06:30 PM
  #42  
Quote: @theprototype Did you try my method of entering accessory mode, changing the drive select to sports +, then starting the car? I’d be very interested in knowing why my two AMG’s (‘25 G63 / ‘25 GT63S E-Perf 4-Door) allow this but other models don’t. I do it all the time on my GT, through an individual mode that has everything in comfort except the exhaust in powerful and the engine in sport so it actually starts. I can’t stand starting in comfort mode which defaults to electric drive and having the cold engine, with cold coolant and oil, turn on right before I’m about to get on the Highway/Freeway!

Cheers
Yeah man, the option doesn't exist for me. I can only change the drive mode after starting the engine. It may be something that was changed on the 25's and above? I can't see any other reason it could be. I've got the EVM ordered so luckily this will be a thing of the past soon once I can have the valves open all the time.
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Aug 10, 2025 | 01:57 PM
  #43  
After some more testing/listening, I think I need to replace the smaller pipe with the same diameter as the bigger one, I can hear some type of whistle at times, it is very subtle, but now I know it is there and my OCD kicks in, I believe coming from the smaller pipe.
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Aug 10, 2025 | 04:03 PM
  #44  
Quote: After some more testing/listening, I think I need to replace the smaller pipe with the same diameter as the bigger one, I can hear some type of whistle at times, it is very subtle, but now I know it is there and my OCD kicks in, I believe coming from the smaller pipe.
Good to know. If I can ever find a shop that’s able to mod this for me will pass it on
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Aug 12, 2025 | 10:45 AM
  #45  
Anyone have issues pairing their car to their garage door opener? I never had issues pairing with 4 other cars but for some reason the amg just isn't "learning" the garage door opener. It's a rolling unit so have to pair directly to the machine and not the remote. No matter how many times I've tried I can't seem to get it to stick to either of our garage door openers which lends me to believe it's a problem with the car.
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Aug 12, 2025 | 12:55 PM
  #46  
Quote: Anyone have issues pairing their car to their garage door opener? I never had issues pairing with 4 other cars but for some reason the amg just isn't "learning" the garage door opener. It's a rolling unit so have to pair directly to the machine and not the remote. No matter how many times I've tried I can't seem to get it to stick to either of our garage door openers which lends me to believe it's a problem with the car.
I have a rolling code too on mine with no issues using the hand held transmitter and the MBZ buttons (no need to use the learn button on the garage opener itself).
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Aug 12, 2025 | 05:28 PM
  #47  
Quote: I have a rolling code too on mine with no issues using the hand held transmitter and the MBZ buttons (no need to use the learn button on the garage opener itself).
Ill try it again a few times but I tried both ways maybe a dozen times each with no luck. It’s a weirdly difficult thing to troubleshoot
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Aug 12, 2025 | 06:45 PM
  #48  
Are you pressing the learn button on the actual opener or the keypad that connects to the wall your installer installed? I mean, either way should work fine. Hold far left and right button with AAC mode until it resets, wait like 5 seconds then press any button, let it flash slowly and just point the remote at it. Hold the remote button until you see it flash rapidly, go and press learn then just kept on pressing the homelink button until door responds... That said, should be the same as the other vehicles... Are there any interference?
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Aug 12, 2025 | 09:25 PM
  #49  
Quote: Are you pressing the learn button on the actual opener or the keypad that connects to the wall your installer installed? I mean, either way should work fine. Hold far left and right button with AAC mode until it resets, wait like 5 seconds then press any button, let it flash slowly and just point the remote at it. Hold the remote button until you see it flash rapidly, go and press learn then just kept on pressing the homelink button until door responds... That said, should be the same as the other vehicles... Are there any interference?
By golly that did it. Had to start with the remote and then also do the learn on the opener itself immediately after. With my past few vehicles only had to do one or the other. Thank you sir!
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Aug 12, 2025 | 09:36 PM
  #50  
Quote: By golly that did it. Had to start with the remote and then also do the learn on the opener itself immediately after. With my past few vehicles only had to do one or the other. Thank you sir!
Awesome OP, glad to hear my method helped! Enjoy the car in good health!
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