Aftermarket HID Conversion Kits & required setting XENON=PRESENT thread
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From: NJ, NYC
Something Slow
the Second pic i borrowed i hope its ok MJ50 
Comparing Bi-Xenon & City Lights
My Car with Philips Ultinon & Ebay LED see Link in above post for led!
MJ50's Car with Piaa Cobalt 6600k with LED Tower III leds from auto lumination
the Blue is from the HIGH beam blub i think!
Comparing Bi-Xenon & City Lights
My Car with Philips Ultinon & Ebay LED see Link in above post for led!
MJ50's Car with Piaa Cobalt 6600k with LED Tower III leds from auto lumination
the Blue is from the HIGH beam blub i think!
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
did those tower LED's trip the computer...cuz i got a set of LED's from autolumination and they tripped mine...they dont flicker but still tripped it on both sides
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Something Slow
but i had the Tower led in before they did give Errors but if i turn the light on before starting the car they worked fine! with no Errors!
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450 SL
As a electrical engineer then you should know ballasts during it initial start up take use up as many as 7.5-15amps depending on the model of the ballast. Going off your amp calculations thats basically double the amount of amps that a halogen is rated or more. It usually only last 10seconds but over time it can damage your oem harness.
After the startup then yes it does go down to the 35w or 55w rating depending on what type of ballasts your running.
Most halogen harnesses usually use 18ga wire, which is a lot of current for a wire that size.
This is why i recommend a harness, rather then using the oem harness. The inital start up ampage can fry your harness. I would rather risk frying a $25 harness then trying to find out how much a oem one costs.
You should learn a little bit more about ballasts, instead of just calculating a number based on a simple number rating.
After the startup then yes it does go down to the 35w or 55w rating depending on what type of ballasts your running.
Most halogen harnesses usually use 18ga wire, which is a lot of current for a wire that size.
This is why i recommend a harness, rather then using the oem harness. The inital start up ampage can fry your harness. I would rather risk frying a $25 harness then trying to find out how much a oem one costs.
You should learn a little bit more about ballasts, instead of just calculating a number based on a simple number rating.
My explanation showed the relation of volts and amps to watts.
Your blanket statement was incorrect
If you want to compare apples to apples between halogens and HID's then fine. Inrush current for a typical 55W low beam filament can be up to approximately 15 amps. A couple amps more than the typical HID ballast requires for startup. With the halogen, the startup current (Inrush) lasts MAYBE 1/2 second, but that also puts a strain on the factory harness.
PROPER HID kit always comes with a harness that only uses the factory headlight wiring to trigger the relays that provide current direct from the battery to the Ballasts. Now the headlight wiring only sees MAYBE 1/2 amp.
Again, my original post was relating to your BLANKET statement that HID's pull more amps than wattage... which is impossible because volts multiplied by amps equals wattage.
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450 SL
Actually, real world vs text book makes no difference when calculating wattage... volts multiplied by amps equals watts.
The statement that says "HID's pull more amps than wattage" is incorrect.
nothing can pull more amps than watts.
Had he stated that HID's pull more amps (or watts) than Halogens on startup, then he would have been sort of correct. See my previous post.
The statement that says "HID's pull more amps than wattage" is incorrect.
nothing can pull more amps than watts.
Had he stated that HID's pull more amps (or watts) than Halogens on startup, then he would have been sort of correct. See my previous post.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Actually, real world vs text book makes no difference when calculating wattage... volts multiplied by amps equals watts.
The statement that says "HID's pull more amps than wattage" is incorrect.
nothing can pull more amps than watts.
Had he stated that HID's pull more amps (or watts) than Halogens on startup, then he would have been sort of correct. See my previous post.
The statement that says "HID's pull more amps than wattage" is incorrect.
nothing can pull more amps than watts.
Had he stated that HID's pull more amps (or watts) than Halogens on startup, then he would have been sort of correct. See my previous post.
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From: Corona, CA
03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
Your quote said "HID's use a lot more amps than wattage"
My explanation showed the relation of volts and amps to watts.
Your blanket statement was incorrect
If you want to compare apples to apples between halogens and HID's then fine. Inrush current for a typical 55W low beam filament can be up to approximately 15 amps. A couple amps more than the typical HID ballast requires for startup. With the halogen, the startup current (Inrush) lasts MAYBE 1/2 second, but that also puts a strain on the factory harness.
PROPER HID kit always comes with a harness that only uses the factory headlight wiring to trigger the relays that provide current direct from the battery to the Ballasts. Now the headlight wiring only sees MAYBE 1/2 amp.
Again, my original post was relating to your BLANKET statement that HID's pull more amps than wattage... which is impossible because volts multiplied by amps equals wattage.
My explanation showed the relation of volts and amps to watts.
Your blanket statement was incorrect
If you want to compare apples to apples between halogens and HID's then fine. Inrush current for a typical 55W low beam filament can be up to approximately 15 amps. A couple amps more than the typical HID ballast requires for startup. With the halogen, the startup current (Inrush) lasts MAYBE 1/2 second, but that also puts a strain on the factory harness.
PROPER HID kit always comes with a harness that only uses the factory headlight wiring to trigger the relays that provide current direct from the battery to the Ballasts. Now the headlight wiring only sees MAYBE 1/2 amp.
Again, my original post was relating to your BLANKET statement that HID's pull more amps than wattage... which is impossible because volts multiplied by amps equals wattage.
Hence my recommendation of using a separate harness because 99.9% of hid kits do not come with harness and most people just plug in there kits into the oem harness.
15amps for a halogen seems really high especially since most halogen wiring only uses 18-24 ga wire. Especially as a automaker, why would they want that kind of liability running that much current on such small wiring...seems like a lawsuit waiting to happen.
You'll notice that the wiring going into oem ballasts tend to be larger then halogen wiring to compensate for the high amp usage during startup.
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume your 15amp surge of halogens is correct.
Then i'll retract my amp to wattage statement, since you already agreed to my recommendation anyways regardless of the explaination.
Your missing the point of the thread.
Junior Member
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From: Florida
2007 Mercedes-Benz C230 8K HID's Low Beam & Fog Lights
Alright guys i got the city lights and they fit perfect no prob. but i got errors on the dash board and they won't stay on, they flicker and the light is very blue just like the license plate bulb.
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From: Florida
2007 Mercedes-Benz C230 8K HID's Low Beam & Fog Lights
for your City lights get these they Fit Perfect into the tiny hole! No Errors nothing!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-HID...mZ370098186852
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-HID...mZ370098186852
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
j/w if anyone has purchased these HID's...?
Hey guys I'm looking to purchase some HID's and I keep coming across this seller on ebay...plus they're like the only ones that i've found with the black housing in which the whole assembly doesnt resemble the stock halogen, just retrofitted with a projector lens.
So if anyone has any input on this item or what not it would be appreciated...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...BSI%26otn%3D12
So if anyone has any input on this item or what not it would be appreciated...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...BSI%26otn%3D12
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From: Madison WI
2003 SL55, 2010 C63
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370101545982
I ordered this and got them today. However, when I put them on my car one start to flicker and burned out in less than 5 seconds and the other one stay on for about a minute and started to flicker so I immediately took it off. The one that burned out was broken into 2 pieces and one of the pieces is still in my BIX which I have no idea about how to take it off right now. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Andy
I ordered this and got them today. However, when I put them on my car one start to flicker and burned out in less than 5 seconds and the other one stay on for about a minute and started to flicker so I immediately took it off. The one that burned out was broken into 2 pieces and one of the pieces is still in my BIX which I have no idea about how to take it off right now. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Andy
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From: Long Beach, Ca.
2007 C230 Sport Sedan
Quick question--I just replaced my OEM halogen headlights with the OEM Bi-Xenons, does that mean I will need some time of harness that you guys are talking about? I haven't set my computer to Xenon-present yet, but they work great (no flickering or errors) as long as I turn on the headlights "before" I turn on the car. If I turn on the headlights "after" I turn on the car, I get flickering and an error message on my dash display. By the way, my car is a 2007 C230 sport sedan.
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From: NYC
2012 C300 4Matic
WHITE city lights - is there a definitive answer?
I know there have been about a million threads on this, but I'm hoping we can come to some definitive conclusions in this thread.
If you've found a set of city lights (LED or incandescent) that works and is WHITE (not bluish!!) then please post where you bought them!
I know there is a thread about LED city lights on ebay below this one, but it seems that there are as many people complaining about them for failing as praising them.
If you've found a set of city lights (LED or incandescent) that works and is WHITE (not bluish!!) then please post where you bought them!
I know there is a thread about LED city lights on ebay below this one, but it seems that there are as many people complaining about them for failing as praising them.
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From: Madison WI
2003 SL55, 2010 C63
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2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
You can use the W5W lamps dipped in Moonlight blue Rosco Colorine. This will raise the color temperature of the lamps from 3200K to almost 5000K.
American lamp # 168 is just a bit dimmer than the W5W, and the color temp with Colorine is about 4900K. Most people can't see the difference, but 5000K appears "whiter" to most people.
http://www.rosco.com/us/scenic/colorine.asp
American lamp # 168 is just a bit dimmer than the W5W, and the color temp with Colorine is about 4900K. Most people can't see the difference, but 5000K appears "whiter" to most people.
http://www.rosco.com/us/scenic/colorine.asp
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From: NJ, NYC
Something Slow
these are the 21 LED City light i got from ebay that Works Perfect in my car! no Flicking, no errors! nothing you can see pictures in my earlier posts with them on.
No regulator Came with this! Plug & Play!
No regulator Came with this! Plug & Play!
Last edited by WaveyKat; Nov 4, 2008 at 08:21 AM.
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From: Florida
2007 Mercedes-Benz C230 8K HID's Low Beam & Fog Lights
Super Member
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From: Berlin
2018 C63s
I dont see the big issue people have with the city lights. I ordered mine from Hoen. $12 They match the BIX perfectly. Quality product, and even though the bulbs are actually coated blue, you can't even tell during the day. (unless you put your face like 2 ft. from headlight housing) And if thats the case then 
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From: Sacramento/San Gabriel/Riverside
01' C32o
wow, you guys must've gotten bad sets. make sure to get the SMD LED's. and i don't think you can get a light taht's in between blue/white without using regular incandescents. if you get the white LEDs, it might have a little hint of blue, but other than that, nada.
damn mike, you be buying HELLA lightbulbs, hahaha.
damn mike, you be buying HELLA lightbulbs, hahaha.
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04 C230 sport
If your looking for a reliable HID kit, i would go with www.xenoneyes.com i have bought a hid kit and bulbs from them they are quick shipment, and they look awesome. Plus they are cheap...$129 for the kit free shipping
