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DjaKRAbb
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Jan 28, 2021
- Join DateNov 2020
- LocationUK, RHD
- Posts:129
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- Vehicle(s) I driveBicycle, 2004 c200k
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My EML light came on after a half hour drive.. then turned off.. read the error codes and i had an MAF low code and a misfire one also. That's like christmas has come early! I've been waiting for a reason to do this ever since reading this thread. i've ordered a new MAF the 2 hoses and that flexible clamp remover. I even got that click-r thing and i cant wait to tackle this, just have to wait until it all arrives. Finally a job where im not under the car, hooray!
*edit - looks like the click-r cant even be used as it wont fit unless i remove the compressor,, oh well, screwdrivers it is!
*edit - looks like the click-r cant even be used as it wont fit unless i remove the compressor,, oh well, screwdrivers it is!
The Clic-R tool does come in useful. I used it on 2 connectors. One on an elbow to the throttle body, and another on where the $12 hose attaches.
The 4 hose connectors to the fuel filter also use Clic-R clamps. I replaced them with the fuel injector screw types. However, now that I have the tool, I may pop the Clic-R ones back on the next time I do the job.
With that said, check at the dealer (give them your VIN) to see if the hoses and check valve were replaced under recall. If not, they'll do the job for free.
The 4 hose connectors to the fuel filter also use Clic-R clamps. I replaced them with the fuel injector screw types. However, now that I have the tool, I may pop the Clic-R ones back on the next time I do the job.
With that said, check at the dealer (give them your VIN) to see if the hoses and check valve were replaced under recall. If not, they'll do the job for free.
Newbie
First of all, thanks a lot for such a detailed tutorial!
Lately I'm getting a lot of P072 (system too rich) and P201C, plus sometimes misfire cylinder1, and rough idle jumping up and down shaking the car. I clean the error and for a while it runs fine, then back again.
MAF is new.
The hose over the supercharger is fine.
Checking the engine bay, after removing the airbox, i've seen lots of "dark oil" around that valve/hose hiding behind the supercharger.
Is there a way to check for leaks without having to remove intake and charger?
Thanks.
Lately I'm getting a lot of P072 (system too rich) and P201C, plus sometimes misfire cylinder1, and rough idle jumping up and down shaking the car. I clean the error and for a while it runs fine, then back again.
MAF is new.
The hose over the supercharger is fine.
Checking the engine bay, after removing the airbox, i've seen lots of "dark oil" around that valve/hose hiding behind the supercharger.
Is there a way to check for leaks without having to remove intake and charger?
Thanks.
Quote:
Lately I'm getting a lot of P072 (system too rich) and P201C, plus sometimes misfire cylinder1, and rough idle jumping up and down shaking the car. I clean the error and for a while it runs fine, then back again.
MAF is new.
The hose over the supercharger is fine.
Checking the engine bay, after removing the airbox, i've seen lots of "dark oil" around that valve/hose hiding behind the supercharger.
Is there a way to check for leaks without having to remove intake and charger?
Thanks.
make sure your top hose isn't on backwards ... one end is slightly bigger than the other, if you install it the wrong way then the fitting behing the MAF will be extra loose and will leak oil vapor ...Originally Posted by DiabloC200K
First of all, thanks a lot for such a detailed tutorial!Lately I'm getting a lot of P072 (system too rich) and P201C, plus sometimes misfire cylinder1, and rough idle jumping up and down shaking the car. I clean the error and for a while it runs fine, then back again.
MAF is new.
The hose over the supercharger is fine.
Checking the engine bay, after removing the airbox, i've seen lots of "dark oil" around that valve/hose hiding behind the supercharger.
Is there a way to check for leaks without having to remove intake and charger?
Thanks.
Newbie
Quote:
Edit: found it!Originally Posted by jkowtko
make sure your top hose isn't on backwards ... one end is slightly bigger than the other, if you install it the wrong way then the fitting behing the MAF will be extra loose and will leak oil vapor ...
Hoses are fine, they don't even look so old. Probably e previous mechanic been working on it already (a clamp is missing).
Here is the broken part. Hope I'll find a way to remove it from hose and change it without having to remove supercharger.
Hats off to everyone contributed into this discussion! Not even official dealer/mechanic looked into it.
Welcome to the $12 hose and broken check valve clubs. 
Technically it may be possible to replace just the check valve, but you'll have to fish all the broken bits out of the 2 hoses. Also, without removing the hoses there is no way to know if you have the latest version. The $12 hose has 4 versions (different materials), so I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom 2 hoses were also updated several times.
Lastly, you'll have to somehow flex the hoses enough to install the new check valve without breaking it. If you're able to do so, please post instructions. I found I was unable to do so, which is why I removed the supercharger.
While everything is out, be sure to do all the other jobs (top up supercharger oil, change engine mounts etc.) in the link provided.
Technically it may be possible to replace just the check valve, but you'll have to fish all the broken bits out of the 2 hoses. Also, without removing the hoses there is no way to know if you have the latest version. The $12 hose has 4 versions (different materials), so I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom 2 hoses were also updated several times.
Lastly, you'll have to somehow flex the hoses enough to install the new check valve without breaking it. If you're able to do so, please post instructions. I found I was unable to do so, which is why I removed the supercharger.
While everything is out, be sure to do all the other jobs (top up supercharger oil, change engine mounts etc.) in the link provided.
Newbie
Quote:
Thanks. Originally Posted by slammer111
Welcome to the $12 hose and broken check valve clubs.
(really, thanks a lot for this forum post, without it i don't think i'd have been able to solve by myself)I really like this car, but damn... Who the heck decided to put that valve there?
Tomorrow I'll try to find a longer ratchet (hope its right english name) to loosen the belt tensioner, then things will get easier.
Regarding supecharger, do I have to remove only 3 bolts, correct? 2 in the front, and the one hiding down/back, right? Or also the closer one attacched to the black plastic inlet? (stupid question, but its quite difficult to reach)
The hoses and valve have a recall. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN. If it hasn't been done, they'll do this job for free. Recalls do not expire.
The supercharger is held together by 3 screws, 2 in front by the pulley and 1 underneath the supercharger. You are correct. However, it requires removing 2 intake mufflers beforehand, one of which is quite a pain to reach. See my link (post #1) for detailed instructions.
The supercharger is held together by 3 screws, 2 in front by the pulley and 1 underneath the supercharger. You are correct. However, it requires removing 2 intake mufflers beforehand, one of which is quite a pain to reach. See my link (post #1) for detailed instructions.
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Newbie
Quote:
You are right! That screw hiding behind the steering column been a real pleasure both to unscrew and put back in place. Originally Posted by slammer111
However, it requires removing 2 intake mufflers beforehand, one of which is quite a pain to reach.
Engine bay cleaned up from all the oil/dirt, new hoses and valve.
Finally perfect idle, and looks like car is running much better.
Thanks a lot for sharing this informations.
Newbie
Quote:
So after reading about the many many people suffering this nasty problem, I decided to do my bit for this wonderful forum.
Not sure exactly what this hose does (it connects a metal part to a plastic part), but word on the street has it that if it springs a leak/tear, then the CEL will turn on and throw a crapload of codes (which is a bad thing :p).
The problem is caused by factory clamps that are too tight, on top of the original hoses being made of a not-so-durable grade of rubber. Left unchecked, the clamps will cut through the hose at around 70-100k km and cause problems.
All vehicles with the M271 engine (2003-2005 C230k), especially the earlier runs, will have this problem. Mercedes-Benz has released 4 (yes, FOUR) versions of this rubber hose. On my 2003, I had the 1st (ie oldest) version.
MB wants some 7h labour(!) to change this hose.
Save yourself a few bills and do this yourself!
Parts needed:
A271-018-12-82-64 Hose (anything lower than 12 for the 3rd number is old)
2 hose clamps (buy from dealer or auto parts store)
Tools:
Torx T15 bit
Torx T25 bit - the shorter the shaft, the better
E10 Inverted Torx bit, ratchet set, extension (at least 3")
Hacksaw if your E10 bit is 3/8" drive instead of 1/4" drive (I hate MB
)
Pliers or hose clamp remover (I recommend the latter if you already have one, but don't go out to buy one just for this one piece)
Slot screwdriver (as narrow and long as possible, this is to disengage a hose clamp)
Whatever bit you need to secure your new hose clamps
A crapload of patience and self-restraint, to prevent oneself from exploding into murderous rage while attempting this fix
A 6-pack of beer (most important tool for this upgrade, gawd was it painful)
Ice or mini-fridge for the beer
A friend/relative with functional arms
hello, does the w204 m271 still got this problem?Originally Posted by slammer111
**UPDATE** Had to do the job again, but this time I replaced the $12 hose and 2 lower hoses and check valve. See link.So after reading about the many many people suffering this nasty problem, I decided to do my bit for this wonderful forum.
Not sure exactly what this hose does (it connects a metal part to a plastic part), but word on the street has it that if it springs a leak/tear, then the CEL will turn on and throw a crapload of codes (which is a bad thing :p).
The problem is caused by factory clamps that are too tight, on top of the original hoses being made of a not-so-durable grade of rubber. Left unchecked, the clamps will cut through the hose at around 70-100k km and cause problems.
All vehicles with the M271 engine (2003-2005 C230k), especially the earlier runs, will have this problem. Mercedes-Benz has released 4 (yes, FOUR) versions of this rubber hose. On my 2003, I had the 1st (ie oldest) version.
MB wants some 7h labour(!) to change this hose.
Save yourself a few bills and do this yourself!Parts needed:
A271-018-12-82-64 Hose (anything lower than 12 for the 3rd number is old)
2 hose clamps (buy from dealer or auto parts store)
Tools:
Torx T15 bit
Torx T25 bit - the shorter the shaft, the better
E10 Inverted Torx bit, ratchet set, extension (at least 3")
Hacksaw if your E10 bit is 3/8" drive instead of 1/4" drive (I hate MB
)Pliers or hose clamp remover (I recommend the latter if you already have one, but don't go out to buy one just for this one piece)
Slot screwdriver (as narrow and long as possible, this is to disengage a hose clamp)
Whatever bit you need to secure your new hose clamps
A crapload of patience and self-restraint, to prevent oneself from exploding into murderous rage while attempting this fix
A 6-pack of beer (most important tool for this upgrade, gawd was it painful)
Ice or mini-fridge for the beer
A friend/relative with functional arms
Newbie
Would blanking off the vacuum port in the intake work as a temporary fix (to stop unmetered air getting in through the hoses at least)?
