So she idles fine open loop with mixture enrichment but a soon as she goes closed loop & leans off there is trouble?

Make sure that air cleaner is on properly. Had a W204 the other day with the same issue.

Buy a $50 scanner from Harbor Freight.

 

Broke down and bought a scanner so I don't have to run to the parts store every time the engine light comes on. Cleared the codes and after restarting, the p0012 code is gone so the magnets fixed that. But I still have a rough idle and running and get code p301, cyl #1 missfire. Next step is to swap #1 plug and ignition pack with another to see what I get next.

 

Good!

 

Turns out that it is the plugs! Pulled #1 and it was almost completely closed. Wire brushed, re set gap and swapped with #2 and runs fine and no CEL. Will get new plugs when the stores open again after Christmas. Who would have thought that I needed plugs after only 98k miles. Thanks for the help!

 

Ahem! Due for change, Not running in the self cleaning range sufficiently, Too many short trips. Poor coil - you gave it a hard time.

Pleased you have found the problem

 

Great thread. I have a ML 430 that been just quitting. First at stops signs
it would die. Let it sit a while and it would restart. This last time it Quit
at a sign and restarted 30 min later took off made it 5 miles and just like
someone tuuned the key at 60. Just cranks and no fire. waited 30 min
agaim started and made another 5 miles and dies. i went and got my trailer
and when I went to load it it started again. It's home now and will start
when it's been sitting.

CEL code is P0300 which is misfire.

Is this a CPS or fuiel pump issue.

New with the Benz and trying to learn and appreciate any help.

Nic

 

If it is temperature sensitive it is usually the CPS. Just pour cold water on it to check.
Nevertheless check that the front fuel rail has >3.8 bar pressure at the Schrader valve while cranking.

Good luck!

 

Yes, they are due at 90K on the M272, you are a little late. Oh, wait, I shouldn't say much since I am at 98K as well on mine and have yet to change them Though my car is run 80-90% highway.

 

Thank you for you input much appreciated. Where is the CPS located. I have a 430 ML 1999. I believe it's on the driver side. Is it on top or
underneath at the rear of the engine. I will be testing the bar pressure first.
but it seems to be a hear related issue. Starts when cold and stops after running a while.

Nic

 

 

Oh, the good old CPS. It looks easy enough in the picture, but is a PITA. It is done all by feel, as you can't see in there even laying on top of the engine. Remove the air cleaner housing, MAF, and lower duct to get better access to it.

 

Indeed - simple with the engine out

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm new so bare with me. Do you have a photo's of said
parts to remove (MAF and Lower duct) so I take the right parts.

You are not kidding. I climbed up on the engine and tried to see it and
could only feel it. What is holding it on? Bolt what size, Torq size, allen head size.

I take it that a Bosch replacement part is recommended or is something else better.

Thanks Nic

 

We have been discussing on the W209 forum & I thought you guys might find it interesting as to how to identify whether the problem is likely cam adjustor magnets or the dreaded Lanchester shaft (balancer shaft) sprocket issue.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ft-repair.html

If you get DTC codes 1200/1208 (P0017/P0016) together it is likely the worn sprocket issue.

Excellent explanation by MBtech1098 with pics.

quote
"When DTC's 1200 and 1208 are present together, there is a high likelihood that you have a balance shaft/idler sprocket issue. These faults will usually not appear separately unless there is a problem with the adjuster itself. To understand why you need to know how the cams are connected. The chain is connected to both left and right intake cam adjuster, and via gear train to the exhaust adjusters. (See figure A.) If base timing is off on the intake, then base timing is off on the exhaust as well.

Figure A


These faults will appear after the ME attempts to adjust the cams, however the value deviates by more than 9 degrees crank angle of specified.

1200 - Constant adjustment of exhaust camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded'(P0017)

1208 - Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded'(P0016)

Usually when you have an issue with the cam magnet/solenoid, you will have one of the following DTC's: 0059, 0060, 0063, 0064, 0271, 0272, 0275, 0276.

With the use of an oscilloscope it is very easy to determine if the engine is out of time. (see figure B) By connecting a multi-channel scope to all the cam position sensors and crank position sensor we can get a graphical representation of engine timing. We are also able to determine how many degrees out of time the engine actually is. A & B are the intakes and C & D are the exhaust. E is the crank position sensor. If you notice the two black lines they show an engine in time. If the engine was out of time one of the banks would not be inline. You can then count the segments in row E to determine the amount of degrees of deviation. The flywheel has a total of 60 segments minus 2 to identify cylinder 1, this means that each sine wave of the crank sensor is equal to about 6 degrees.

Figure B


As far as goodwill, if you have low milage on your vehicle, there is a good chance you could get it covered. But if you have been doing some driving it is more likely that it will not be covered. Goodwill has many variables however."
unquote

 

First of all, my sincere thanks to Glyn and John (of course, along w/ other contributors) for your guidance to sort out P0012 issue. What a great post ! Just to give you some back ground, I have 2007 GL450 w/ 22,000 miles and reliability of this car has been very disappointing. Items to replace (under warranty) were PS rack, water pump, rear shocks, steering column couplings, 3rd seat motor, tail gate actuator, cam shaft plugs....the warranty is over, and now I get P0012 code- bank 1 Intake CS position timing over retarded. Thanks to this great post, I did manage to replace all three but 1 magnet. Two questions:

I have made several attempts (using 1/4 wrench) to take out the bolts right behind the PS reservoir w/o much success. I feel that PS reservoir need to be removed to order to get enough clearance - see the attached picture. If so, could you please point me to some diagrams as how the reservoir's attached to the engine body ? I can see the 2 long bolts, but others may be hidden and I just want to make sure that I have a well thought out game plan. 2nd question is is it safe to assume that my car won't experience fault code scenario 1 (1200 & 1208 ck light) since my engine serial # is 273xxx143814 which supersedes 273xxx088611 ?

Much appreciated for your help

Oh, one more question, I purchased eqqus 3100 scanner from walmart and cleared the p0012 code. two of montoring icons (O, oxy sensor & C, CAT) keep on flashing - not ready ?? I don't suppose that this is related to p0012 issue, but has anyone else experienced this issue / is it normal perhaps ? hope I can pass the smog

 

bump, please

 

When I found this thread I thought my problem was answered but I have a couple of questions for those in the know,driving the car that is new to me I never listened close but after a few days I noticed there was a small shutter or vibration starting off from a start and sometimes it runs like a scared rabbit other times I think I might have to get out and push, so after reading this thread I installed both magnets on passenger side (had it scaned when I bought it and code said cam sensor P/side),nothing has changed cel light still on,trans still can't decide to start in first or third?
Question 1, does the cel have to be reset in order for ecu to manage all input and run the engine properly? (could it be still in "limp" mode) Having saw the picture of the worn out balance shaft gear on this thread,
Question 2 could this be the vibration problem and I still will have to change chain, gears and balance shaft? Talking to dealer he said engine has to be removed for this job
Question 3 is this because the oil pan has to be removed to change oil pump or is there something I'm not seeing with balance shaft replacement?
Question 4 is there a more resonable priced timing chain "kit" availible? Thanks for any help in advance

Randy

 

hi guys just hoping for some answers
Thanks

Randy

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ssues-dtb.html

 

Please read the whole of this thread and especially the posts by pcy on how to change magnets without removing PS reservior.

You will not suffer scenario 1 if your car is out of the fault VIN range.

I can't comment on your O2 flashing lights. Read the Equus Innova manual that came with your scanner.

 

Thank you very much Glyn I will get the scan done properly hopefully changing the other two magnets will do the trick.

Thanks again for all your help and the links

Randy

 

Thank you, I re-read the pcy posts as you had suggested. The 1/4" wrench (Sears) that i am using is only 3.75" tall or so. I am planning on to make another attempt this weekend to replace the one behind the PS reservoir perhaps w/ a longer 1/4" wrench, harbor f ??

 

I used the shorter 1/4" box wrench and I used another wrench (connected at the end of 1/4" wrench for leverage) and I was able to undo the bolts behind the PS reservoir.

If you can get longer 1/4" box wrench, that will make the job simpler. Harbor Freight has the set for relatively cheap.

 

I need some help. I have a 2006 C230 Sport (V6). I read through this entire thread and do not mean to ask a repetitive question. I work for a Hyundai Dealership and my mechanic replaced the four magnets and then reset the CEL. Driving home I still felt as though the power was down. Got a new CEL today with codes P0016 and P0017. My mechanic is thinking the next move would be to replace the Crank adjustment sensor. He has been in communication with a firend who is a mechanic at our local MB Dealership. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I am assuming there is only one Crank sensor? My mechanic also mentioned the CAM sensors, I believe there are two or four of these. What would be my smartest course of action. I am scared that it will end up being something more serious. This morning I also got the ESC malfunction message (code was P0335), I will be trying the reset described earlier in the thread for this. The car has roughly 91k miles on it. Thank you for any suggestions.

 

The ESC is just your Electronic Stability Control (Traction Control), so generally when that goes out, most people don't replace it unless they've really got the money for it because it's $$$$. However, if you know how to do it yourself, it's probably not too bad (I don't know).

So you're saying your mechanic already replaced the "four magnets." Those are the camshaft sensor magnets, right? But you're also saying he thinks it's the cam sensors? I guess what I'm saying is your post is kind of contradictory, as it says you replaced the 4 magnets but then the problem might be the cam sensors again?