can i have some step by step please

 

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Or you can go to an audio shop and ask. I have all custom work done in my car and I personally think you should get an aftermarket H/U unless your trying to keep the stock look.

 

This is E class but it should be similar to that, so yea check it out

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...j+install+sub7

 

Most stock head units (h/u) do not put out the minimum 2V required of most amps. I have used the stock h/u before, but the shop had to use a small device that up-converts the stock h/u's voltage to 2V. There are h/u's out there that produce 2V to 8V (Eclipse). The more voltage, the less gain required on the amp and the cleaner the signal/sound. I would suggest an aftermarket h/u, but you can run an amp/sub with the stock h/u.

 

i got rockford 3.sixty.1

i kept my stock H/U.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...s.asp?cat_id=1

heres the web-site.

i installed this from bestbuy in canada.

 

My first question is what would an aftermarket head unit do for anyone that the stock unit does not do?

My second question is why spend money on something that does nothing more (and most times less) than the current product does?

Speaking about W203 cars for MY 2005 and later the stock head unit can tune radio stations, play compact disc's, answer the phone, play satellite radio, and play iPod or other mini-jack supplied audio source. This is all integrated, and keeps the stylish design of the dash.

The stock head unit has a power amplifier for all the speakers in the doors. An optional system uses the same head unit, but has an external amp with better speakers and a sub. The external amp has Logic 7 decoding ability, and noise sensitive gain control. (Nice if your wife talks too much, it turns up the music.)

The navigation system has different controls, but is technically the same. It can drive the door speakers on its own, or use the optional system with the Logic 7 speakers, amp, and sub.

The stock system uses copper wire to send the signal directly from the HU to the speakers. If you have the optional system, satellite radio, telephone, Tele-Aid, or CD changer the audio is carried optically on a system called MOST. (Media Oriented System Transport.) Our Beemer Buddies have this optical fiber system, too.

Even with the optional system amp, the signal from the amp to the speakers is carried on copper wire. Where is the optional amp? Look under the rug on the right rear wheel arch in the trunk. (Boot for our UK friends.)

Now, what is this conversation about 2V? Mercedes cars do not have a line level output, simply because of the MOST!

Now, what is that small device that up-converts? In other makes, or with aftermarket headunits it is an amp! It really makes scant difference where you amplify the signal, the total gain figure for the system will be the same for a chosen listening level. Modern DSP amps have such small noise figures not even your dog can hear if one technique is "cleaner" than the other.

For people wishing to add a sub to a stock head unit I suggest an Infinity BassLink II. The is a powerful 10 inch sub with a class D amp that is adjustable to suit the user. The unit fits nice in a C class, mounted horizontally under the package shelf. It collects its signal from the speaker wires in the rear doors. No need to rip apart the dash to install. There is power available in the trunk on the rear SAM.

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA

 

+1 - wise counsel For cleaner sound - get a better sub!!! Most produce huge distortion all on there own, frequently in excess of 10% - It's about time someone made a servo sub for cars like Velodyne do for home audio. Now this get's the distortion right down. Might exist - I'm not into car audio.

 

Have you ever done an a/b comparison with nothing changed but a factory head unit and a good aftermarket piece? I would venture a guess not. If he is just wanting to add a sub and nothing else, then an aftermarket head unit isn't in order. However- if someone wants much more than to just add a sub- and aftermarket unit can make a world of difference. Glyn, evening being a home audio guy would have to agree. The diffence in source units in a home audio setup would be just the same as different car setups.

As far as the factory head unit is concerned- it does make the speakers play music. But, within reason, speakers sound better with more power. Right- the power does give them the ability to play louder, but they sound better/cleaner at normal volume also (it's called headroom). Some amps today are better than those of the past, as far as noise is concerned. However- junk in, junk out. If the amp doesn't get a clean signal, it's not going to create clean sound. Then again, getting the cleanest signal possible to a sub isn't quite as important as your mids/highs.

Hokie- I would say that you were dooped by your installer. What they had you purchase was a line driver. It sends a stronger signal to the amp- stronger signal equals a cleaner signal. The stock HU creates enough current for a run of the mill line out converter.


Sorry about the rant- but I get tired of costantly hearing people on here saying "stereo's are a waste", "you're not 16 anymore- why do you need bass?", "the stock equipment is just fine", and all the other senseless dribble that comes out of people's mouth. Different strokes for different folks. Some people like good SQ in their car, some other people like to spend $8k on a set of HRE wheels, while others like to spend $6k on a body kit from Lorinser or something of the sort. It is what it is, everyone is different. Some people have an ear for it, while others don't. It's kinda like me- I can't tell the difference between a replica wheels and the real deal wheels- this is because having HRE wheels and a name brand body kit isn't my thing.

 

Agree - **** in **** out - do not agree stronger signal = cleaner signal. If the head unit produces a specific signal to noise ratio, any amplification down stream of this will amplify noise & signal equally & add a little more noise. One also needs to be careful not to overdrive the input of the main amp - all a matter of balance.

As I have said before on this forum - A motor vehicle is a hostile environment for accurate audio - noise levels a problem & flat response close to impossible. That said I have also commented that improving sound in the ears of the beholder and making it more pleasant to that ear - absolutely and do it if that's your buzz. If you gain pleasure out of it - great!.

I run a super Maggie full surround system on Audio Research amps in my home system - No subs for acoustic listening & 2 X 12" - 1 X 15" Velodyne servo subs for home theatre. I'm not part of the golden ear brigade & don't give a damn if the third Oboe is a little brash. The equipment is purely a means to and end. I love music & if I'm happy that's all that matters. I have a purpose built audio room.

If we can help you achieve better sound to your ears in your car we will. Bump is correct. Super accurate midrange & clean highs are crucial to achieve this. But at the same time monotone or boomy bass is the absolute pits & to be avoided at all costs.

Beware of car audio installers - they too are the pits - I have never heard more BS spoken about audio than by this bunch - both when I lived in the US & back home.

 

it's a catch 22.

say you have a HU with a signal to noise ratio off 100db and the pre outs are only 2V. the HU will be producing a cleaner signal, however, you will have to turn up the gain more on the amp, which makes some noise- how much is debateable though.

on the other hand, you could have a HU with a signal to noise ratio of 96db and the pre outs are 4V. the HU won't produce quite as clean of a signal, but you won't have to turn the gain up as high on the amp, which would cut down a little on the noise.

i used the 100db/2V and 96db/4V numbers because those are a couple of the specs of the two HU's i am currently debating between.



back on topic though. to the OP- all you need is a line out converter. tap into any set of speaker wires to get your signal to your amp, run some power and ground wire- you should be set. no need to get a different head unit or a line driver.

 

Understood - I'm talking base principles - the decision is in the listening

 

Heres the new system going into my 06 c230, (8) 8" RF P2's,off of an Orion HCCA D5000. I do all of my work myself all shops do is rip you a new one.

 

I will also be adding an Avic D3 soon, so ill post the pics of the install when its done. It should be very loud.

 

Another point as long as your basic set up is reasonable and you have reasonable amplification - i.e. capable of driving decent speakers. - Your biggest weakness usually lies in the electro mechanicals that couple the signal to air & ultimately your ears. That is loudspeakers! don't be shy to spend money here. As in the days of vinyl - cartridges were critical - so are loudspeakers. The electro mechanical interface is IMHO still a weakness, even in the finest systems. I've just installed the last set of Martin Logan Statements produced for the world at a friends. They are brilliant but not perfect by any means!

 

DAMN!!! How many dead bodies fit in there? Hahahaha! Looking good man!

 

Wow! hope you know how to damp that lot. Where is the tow hitch? Holiday in future will require a trailer. You will get FA in that trunk.

 

haha I didnt really mind loosing trunk space because I dont really use the trunk for much. If I get groceries I can use the back seat . I plan on dynamating the trunk lid sooner or later a friend of mine said he would give me some for free.

 

Enjoy! - at least you won't have to roll the wheel arches in future when you fit some 19" wheels - just crank the volume

 

haha very true.

 

any other plans aside from the sub? mids and highs?

 

Here is my simple setup:



Sorry for the quality, it was taken with my phone. It's a 12 incher and the enclosure is fiberglass.

 

nicely done. who did the 'glass work?

 

That's neat !! Does it have protection? I'd hate to stick a putter through the cone

 

Nice!