M272 Turbo is going to go down
01-11-2010, 08:18 PM
#26
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
That far back, you probably not going to need a intercooler since the piping back will be cooled by the cold air under the car as your driving. You can lower the compression by stacking two oem headgaskets together.
You might want to see if its possible to mount the turbos where the two secondary cats are. I think putting it in the rear muffler seems like too far of a distance so a 3.5L v6 compared to a 6.0L-7.0L v8 you see most of these rear mounted turbos on.
I would just wait until the w205 comes out. The new C-class is suppose to be a twin turbo v6 stock. That way you don't have to worry about smog and you can just spend $1k on a piggy back and get anywhere 60-150hp for free.
You might want to see if its possible to mount the turbos where the two secondary cats are. I think putting it in the rear muffler seems like too far of a distance so a 3.5L v6 compared to a 6.0L-7.0L v8 you see most of these rear mounted turbos on.
I would just wait until the w205 comes out. The new C-class is suppose to be a twin turbo v6 stock. That way you don't have to worry about smog and you can just spend $1k on a piggy back and get anywhere 60-150hp for free.
01-11-2010, 08:44 PM
#27
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Ok, I can't take it anymore, I have to say something. Karo, this will be the last negative thing I say, and I hope you take it as a constructive warning.
Karo, this project will not be as simple as you think. No, you shouldn't be scared to turbo a car, but you should also do your homework. It sounds like you're talking to some people that know turbo's but that isn't going to mean a whole lot if they don't know Benz engines. What you are attempting to do is going to be a complete custom turbo build. The thicker headgasket that you're talking about, dosen't exist for your car. It will have to be custom made for your car. Not only that, but all the tubing, piping, everything will be custom. You're asking about the intercooler - noone knows because noone has done it. Boost? Who knows it might blow at 6psi, it might blow at 8psi. Noone here will be able to tell you until it's been tried. I respect others that have turbo'd a Mercedes, but respectfully, it's not a M272. The newer V6 and V8 are much higher specific output engines and may (or may not) be sensitive to boost. The piggyback ECU, that dosen't exist either. As far as I know, NOONE makes a piggyback for any late model mercedes, especially the new M272/M273. Also, when people say you're going to need to tune the ECU after you do this, they're not talking about a mail-in tune for $500. This will take a custom tune and hours, if not days of dyno testing, all done by someone who knows the Mercedes ECU in and out.
All I am saying is, you've got to ask yourself a couple of questions. What is your intended goal? Is there a better way to reach this goal? What's your budget? What is your plan if someone tears your engine apart and then decides the project is dead?
Keep in mind Karo, that multiple people with lots of time and money have failed at a project just like this.
With that said, I'll track your progress and hope the best.
PS, Here's an example. If you want to see what happened, the result is on page 30.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...0-hp-amgs.html
Karo, this project will not be as simple as you think. No, you shouldn't be scared to turbo a car, but you should also do your homework. It sounds like you're talking to some people that know turbo's but that isn't going to mean a whole lot if they don't know Benz engines. What you are attempting to do is going to be a complete custom turbo build. The thicker headgasket that you're talking about, dosen't exist for your car. It will have to be custom made for your car. Not only that, but all the tubing, piping, everything will be custom. You're asking about the intercooler - noone knows because noone has done it. Boost? Who knows it might blow at 6psi, it might blow at 8psi. Noone here will be able to tell you until it's been tried. I respect others that have turbo'd a Mercedes, but respectfully, it's not a M272. The newer V6 and V8 are much higher specific output engines and may (or may not) be sensitive to boost. The piggyback ECU, that dosen't exist either. As far as I know, NOONE makes a piggyback for any late model mercedes, especially the new M272/M273. Also, when people say you're going to need to tune the ECU after you do this, they're not talking about a mail-in tune for $500. This will take a custom tune and hours, if not days of dyno testing, all done by someone who knows the Mercedes ECU in and out.
All I am saying is, you've got to ask yourself a couple of questions. What is your intended goal? Is there a better way to reach this goal? What's your budget? What is your plan if someone tears your engine apart and then decides the project is dead?
Keep in mind Karo, that multiple people with lots of time and money have failed at a project just like this.
With that said, I'll track your progress and hope the best.
PS, Here's an example. If you want to see what happened, the result is on page 30.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...0-hp-amgs.html
I am ready for the trial and error on the m272. I know the rear mount is an easier way for trial and error because I wont have to dump a lot of money into it.
The concept of mounting a turbo in the rear and having an exhaust shop run a pipe from rear all the way to front seems not that hard for me. Then I will need to get the oil lines and electrical wires and guages. Which honestly if I get the exact measurements for the pipe I can even do myself. The only thing that's going to kill me is the tune. By tune what I really need is Air to Fuel and which I can use something like this (even though it's illegal in California
) http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116Worst case scenario is I can use the product above and have it dyno tuned.
What I am trying to actually gain is not the easy way out. Sure if I sell my car and put 10k on top I can get a clean C55 but it would be nice to have a boosted C350.
I know the m272 35 engine is not like the 350z engine but they boost those with 6psi easily and those engine run at 10.3. I know it's a big difference than 10.7 but at the same time it's not an extreme difference. I also understand it's not the same engine with the same technology but I am up for the challenge. I would have went with the front mount turbo but again I have no room whatsoever. If we don't try we would never know
I'm willing to take the risk of anything that comes my way.
The reason I am emphasizing on the turbo is more of a personal reason.
As for the intercooler usually the long tube and turbo being mounted on the rear makes it a lot more cooler so an intercooler is not needed. But it won't hurt to get one.
Kleemann hasn't released their numbers yet on their m272 supercharger but based on the m112 which was a little over 110 I think 400 crank on the m272 wont hurt.
I know the supercharger delivers boost in a more constant manner rather than a turbo but the supercharger has more psi. With the GT35 I should feel boost no later than 3k. I think I might even feel it mid - low 2k. As long as I get boost delivered low RPM I don't think I am risking any damage especially if I add a front mount intercooler and shoot it through the front scoops.
I don't know we'll see what happens. Might work as planned and everyone is happy or might not work as planned and will blow up engine (which will give me a more reason to get lower compression pistons and add more boost lool)
01-11-2010, 08:55 PM
#28
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a quarter mile at a time
The concept of mounting a turbo in the rear and having an exhaust shop run a pipe from rear all the way to front seems not that hard for me. Then I will need to get the oil lines and electrical wires and guages. Which honestly if I get the exact measurements for the pipe I can even do myself. The only thing that's going to kill me is the tune. By tune what I really need is Air to Fuel and which I can use something like this (even though it's illegal in California ) http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
Worst case scenario is I can use the product above and have it dyno tuned.
) http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116Worst case scenario is I can use the product above and have it dyno tuned.
01-11-2010, 11:40 PM
#29
Senior Member
This thread has got my mind going now.
How similar is the M112 to the M272? From what I've seen they're dam near identical.
What kind of mods would be needed to stuff an M112 turbo kit onto an M272 engine? Has anyone directly compared the heads? Parts off chryslers are very cheap (in this case a crossfire) This would allow for a real twin turbo kit with the turbos on the exhaust manifold.
A piggy back is a must, playing with the stock ecu is still an unknown. I wouldn't bother with double stacking head gaskets, its not the most reliable. Just leave the compression ratio where its at, or have a machinist mill down the stock pistons.
How similar is the M112 to the M272? From what I've seen they're dam near identical.
What kind of mods would be needed to stuff an M112 turbo kit onto an M272 engine? Has anyone directly compared the heads? Parts off chryslers are very cheap (in this case a crossfire) This would allow for a real twin turbo kit with the turbos on the exhaust manifold.
A piggy back is a must, playing with the stock ecu is still an unknown. I wouldn't bother with double stacking head gaskets, its not the most reliable. Just leave the compression ratio where its at, or have a machinist mill down the stock pistons.
01-12-2010, 12:54 AM
#30
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Pretty sure this controller won't work in your Mercedes. Seriously, do yourself a favor and call Renntech or a tuning shop that's done a LOT of Mercedes work. Hooleyboy might be able to point you in the right direction too. A shop that he works with in AZ has put a supercharger on his C55.
Edit
I don't know about the M272 but on the m113 this AEM device works. I also know the HPF kit uses AEM for tuning the E46 M3. I got high hopes for this AEM tool.
This thread has got my mind going now.
How similar is the M112 to the M272? From what I've seen they're dam near identical.
What kind of mods would be needed to stuff an M112 turbo kit onto an M272 engine? Has anyone directly compared the heads? Parts off chryslers are very cheap (in this case a crossfire) This would allow for a real twin turbo kit with the turbos on the exhaust manifold.
A piggy back is a must, playing with the stock ecu is still an unknown. I wouldn't bother with double stacking head gaskets, its not the most reliable. Just leave the compression ratio where its at, or have a machinist mill down the stock pistons.
How similar is the M112 to the M272? From what I've seen they're dam near identical.
What kind of mods would be needed to stuff an M112 turbo kit onto an M272 engine? Has anyone directly compared the heads? Parts off chryslers are very cheap (in this case a crossfire) This would allow for a real twin turbo kit with the turbos on the exhaust manifold.
A piggy back is a must, playing with the stock ecu is still an unknown. I wouldn't bother with double stacking head gaskets, its not the most reliable. Just leave the compression ratio where its at, or have a machinist mill down the stock pistons.
I just have no room for turbo manifolds to do a traditional turbo setup.
Here is a PDF file. A comparison between the m112 and m272.
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdf...2008-05-04.pdf
Last edited by W203E35; 01-12-2010 at 01:06 AM.
01-12-2010, 02:22 AM
#31
Super Moderator
Yes.
My antiquated M112 lump has SOHC heads with three valves per cylinder.
Conservative hardware upgrades - and judicious spark timing/mixture strength tuning – have thus far resulted in ~340 rwhp and almost 110 mph quarter-mile trap speeds, all while spinning the Lysholm to generate only 19 psi. Bloody thing has yet to consume even a quart of Mobil 1 between its sensible change intervals after more than 80,000 sporty miles.
Trust you’re aware that machining to reduce the compression height of an OE piston – particularly our cast hypereutectic pieces - simply cannot be recommended in any boosted or otherwise highly-stressed application owing to sound metallurgical reasons and failure analysis from others’ failed attempts. Increasing deck clearance beyond the customary .030-.050” design specification has deleterious effects on quench, often resulting in soggy off-boost driveability and actually increasing its proclivity toward detonation irrespective of its fuel’s AKI.
MB’s M272 features an honest COP DOHC (with variable valve timing) four-valve hemispherical combustion chamber design and stouter short-block which is theoretically capable of far higher specific output. It’s a generation or two ahead of any other W203 powerplant.
Good luck, Karo.
My antiquated M112 lump has SOHC heads with three valves per cylinder.
Conservative hardware upgrades - and judicious spark timing/mixture strength tuning – have thus far resulted in ~340 rwhp and almost 110 mph quarter-mile trap speeds, all while spinning the Lysholm to generate only 19 psi. Bloody thing has yet to consume even a quart of Mobil 1 between its sensible change intervals after more than 80,000 sporty miles.
Trust you’re aware that machining to reduce the compression height of an OE piston – particularly our cast hypereutectic pieces - simply cannot be recommended in any boosted or otherwise highly-stressed application owing to sound metallurgical reasons and failure analysis from others’ failed attempts. Increasing deck clearance beyond the customary .030-.050” design specification has deleterious effects on quench, often resulting in soggy off-boost driveability and actually increasing its proclivity toward detonation irrespective of its fuel’s AKI.
MB’s M272 features an honest COP DOHC (with variable valve timing) four-valve hemispherical combustion chamber design and stouter short-block which is theoretically capable of far higher specific output. It’s a generation or two ahead of any other W203 powerplant.
Good luck, Karo.
01-12-2010, 07:35 AM
#33
Super Moderator
Trust you’re aware that machining to reduce the compression height of an OE piston – particularly our cast hypereutectic pieces - simply cannot be recommended in any boosted or otherwise highly-stressed application owing to sound metallurgical reasons and failure analysis from others’ failed attempts. Increasing deck clearance beyond the customary .030-.050” design specification has deleterious effects on quench, often resulting in soggy off-boost driveability and actually increasing its proclivity toward detonation irrespective of its fuel’s AKI.
MB’s M272 features an honest COP DOHC (with variable valve timing) four-valve hemispherical combustion chamber design and stouter short-block which is theoretically capable of far higher specific output. It’s a generation or two ahead of any other W203 powerplant.
Good luck, Karo.
01-12-2010, 02:32 PM
#34
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Thanks everyone for you input. I really appreciate it.
I did my homework on the tuning part. Please tell me if I am wrong but there is not much to it. All I need to do it control the fuel and ignition. Like most members said playing with the ECU isn't worth it for something simple like this.
"The F/IC gives users with OBD-II race vehicles and non-factory forced induction systems the ability to retard ignition and deliver accurate amounts of fuel without the need for outdated FMUs or “boost hiding” controllers. This system works parallel to the factory ECU preventing tuning limitations due to complex factory timing patterns."
"The F/IC can also be used to recalibrate / clamp the MAF sensor, eliminating common problems with non-boosted factory MAFs. The on-board MAP sensor allows for proper fueling in boosted conditions."
"Since the F/IC works in conjunction with the factory ECU, late model-vehicles equipped with a CAN-BUS system retain functionality of climate controls, dash and other components on the network. CAN-BUS systems not affected"
I highly doubt that I will need thicker gaskets or playing with the pistons. For getting to 400hp to crank I don't think any of this is needed. The Kleemann Kompressor doesn't change gaskets or mess with the pistons.
6psi isn't much and I don't think it's deadly for the engine. With the setup I want to go with I think I'll be doing minimum 20hp per PSI.
Here is what I have in mind. Leave everything stock. Start off with low PSI and see how the engine responds to it. I really don't think it's going to be really expensive.
Mount turbo in rear. Add a pipe to go from rear to front of the car. Have the pipe hook up to a universal front mount intercooler. Then I like the sound of what Glyn said and that's hook up the pipe from intercooler to engine cover intakes. Then I will need to tap the oil one for oil in and one for oil out which I will need to use a scavenger pump and do the wiring for it. I will need to change the injectors which will be a piece of cake. Then install wideband O2 gauge with sensor. Then with the AEM I can see through the readout how the car is handling to the boost. From there I can see how much lbs I can really run.
I know this is the wrong car to F*ck with but if we dont try we will never know what this engine is capable of. But don't worry guys i'm not gonna mess with the gasket or pistons.
The AEM seems exactly what I need. Like I mentioned before on the Horsepower Freaks kit for the e46 M3 also uses AEM. I believe they use the same device just AEM custom tuned it for Horsepower Freaks.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/prod..._Turbo_EMS.asp
If I were to try to make this into a 600 or 800 hp car then I would be worried but 400hp? I dont think it's anything scary. It's something to worry about but not to be scared.
I did my homework on the tuning part. Please tell me if I am wrong but there is not much to it. All I need to do it control the fuel and ignition. Like most members said playing with the ECU isn't worth it for something simple like this.
"The F/IC gives users with OBD-II race vehicles and non-factory forced induction systems the ability to retard ignition and deliver accurate amounts of fuel without the need for outdated FMUs or “boost hiding” controllers. This system works parallel to the factory ECU preventing tuning limitations due to complex factory timing patterns."
"The F/IC can also be used to recalibrate / clamp the MAF sensor, eliminating common problems with non-boosted factory MAFs. The on-board MAP sensor allows for proper fueling in boosted conditions."
"Since the F/IC works in conjunction with the factory ECU, late model-vehicles equipped with a CAN-BUS system retain functionality of climate controls, dash and other components on the network. CAN-BUS systems not affected"
I highly doubt that I will need thicker gaskets or playing with the pistons. For getting to 400hp to crank I don't think any of this is needed. The Kleemann Kompressor doesn't change gaskets or mess with the pistons.
6psi isn't much and I don't think it's deadly for the engine. With the setup I want to go with I think I'll be doing minimum 20hp per PSI.
Here is what I have in mind. Leave everything stock. Start off with low PSI and see how the engine responds to it. I really don't think it's going to be really expensive.
Mount turbo in rear. Add a pipe to go from rear to front of the car. Have the pipe hook up to a universal front mount intercooler. Then I like the sound of what Glyn said and that's hook up the pipe from intercooler to engine cover intakes. Then I will need to tap the oil one for oil in and one for oil out which I will need to use a scavenger pump and do the wiring for it. I will need to change the injectors which will be a piece of cake. Then install wideband O2 gauge with sensor. Then with the AEM I can see through the readout how the car is handling to the boost. From there I can see how much lbs I can really run.
I know this is the wrong car to F*ck with but if we dont try we will never know what this engine is capable of. But don't worry guys i'm not gonna mess with the gasket or pistons.
The AEM seems exactly what I need. Like I mentioned before on the Horsepower Freaks kit for the e46 M3 also uses AEM. I believe they use the same device just AEM custom tuned it for Horsepower Freaks.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/prod..._Turbo_EMS.asp
If I were to try to make this into a 600 or 800 hp car then I would be worried but 400hp? I dont think it's anything scary. It's something to worry about but not to be scared.
Last edited by W203E35; 01-12-2010 at 02:36 PM.
01-13-2010, 02:08 PM
#36
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Thanks Mike,
I'm going to go with this. Will be completed in a couple of months if everything runs smoothly.
Here is the final response I got and I'm sold.
This person was comparing a low compression American engine to a high compression Japanese engine.
I'm going to go with this. Will be completed in a couple of months if everything runs smoothly.
Here is the final response I got and I'm sold.
a higher compression wont' increase the damage to the engine. if tuning goes correctly, it will be safe. in a way, a lower compression engine is safer because it allows more headroom in detonation. at the same time, it would have to be boost a lot just to gain the same power as a higher compression engine with lower boost. for instance (with all variables the same), it would take an LS engine 13psi of boost just to gain as much power as a GSR engine with ONLY 10psi. either way, the GSR responds more to boost because it made power with less boost stuffed into the engine, all because of the static compression. when you're adding boost, it stuffs more air into the engine to create a bigger combustion. a high compression engine already does this, therefore needing less boost to be stuffed in. in an LS engine, the combustion is weaker, so more boost is required just to get the same compression rate as the GSR engine. the great things is that you can run lower boost to make the same power, which means less stress on the turbo to spin, and have better spool up time because of the exuast released by the high compression.
01-14-2010, 01:03 PM
#37
Senior Member
I believe he was comparing an LS Integra to a GSR Integra. They are trims, in this case the LS had a B18B1 with 9.2:1 compression (141hp) while the GSR was the B18C with 10.6:1 compression (200hp). That however wasn't the only difference the GSR also had Vtec.
A higher compression engine is more efficient so it makes more power. Here's alittle online app to give your effective compression ratio, if you put in boost and static compression.
01-14-2010, 01:39 PM
#38
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You sure about that?
I believe he was comparing an LS Integra to a GSR Integra. They are trims, in this case the LS had a B18B1 with 9.2:1 compression (141hp) while the GSR was the B18C with 10.6:1 compression (200hp). That however wasn't the only difference the GSR also had Vtec.
A higher compression engine is more efficient so it makes more power. Here's alittle online app to give your effective compression ratio, if you put in boost and static compression.
I believe he was comparing an LS Integra to a GSR Integra. They are trims, in this case the LS had a B18B1 with 9.2:1 compression (141hp) while the GSR was the B18C with 10.6:1 compression (200hp). That however wasn't the only difference the GSR also had Vtec.
A higher compression engine is more efficient so it makes more power. Here's alittle online app to give your effective compression ratio, if you put in boost and static compression.
a GSR is a b18c1 which is 170hp. The Integra Type R B18C5 is 200hp. The vtec head also flows are lot better then the LS. A lot of people with the gsr have hit 500whp without touching the head.
The point Karo was trying to make is that its possible to tune a high compression engine.
Coming from the honda world 10.6 isn't really that high of compression but in other makes i guess people consider it high.
With force induction, your just adding compression. Since the engine is already high compression, you just don't have to add as much compression (BOOST)...that the point he was trying to get across.
Since you don't care about smog at this point karo, it'll probably be cheaper just buying a 2jz with tranny for $1800 and just paying for custom mounts.
01-14-2010, 04:19 PM
#39
Senior Member
Here's the calculator I wanted to add earlier.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm
01-14-2010, 05:42 PM
#40
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You sure about that?
I believe he was comparing an LS Integra to a GSR Integra. They are trims, in this case the LS had a B18B1 with 9.2:1 compression (141hp) while the GSR was the B18C with 10.6:1 compression (200hp). That however wasn't the only difference the GSR also had Vtec.
A higher compression engine is more efficient so it makes more power. Here's alittle online app to give your effective compression ratio, if you put in boost and static compression.
I believe he was comparing an LS Integra to a GSR Integra. They are trims, in this case the LS had a B18B1 with 9.2:1 compression (141hp) while the GSR was the B18C with 10.6:1 compression (200hp). That however wasn't the only difference the GSR also had Vtec.
A higher compression engine is more efficient so it makes more power. Here's alittle online app to give your effective compression ratio, if you put in boost and static compression.
a GSR is a b18c1 which is 170hp. The Integra Type R B18C5 is 200hp. The vtec head also flows are lot better then the LS. A lot of people with the gsr have hit 500whp without touching the head.
The point Karo was trying to make is that its possible to tune a high compression engine.
Coming from the honda world 10.6 isn't really that high of compression but in other makes i guess people consider it high.
With force induction, your just adding compression. Since the engine is already high compression, you just don't have to add as much compression (BOOST)...that the point he was trying to get across.
Since you don't care about smog at this point karo, it'll probably be cheaper just buying a 2jz with tranny for $1800 and just paying for custom mounts.
The point Karo was trying to make is that its possible to tune a high compression engine.
Coming from the honda world 10.6 isn't really that high of compression but in other makes i guess people consider it high.
With force induction, your just adding compression. Since the engine is already high compression, you just don't have to add as much compression (BOOST)...that the point he was trying to get across.
Since you don't care about smog at this point karo, it'll probably be cheaper just buying a 2jz with tranny for $1800 and just paying for custom mounts.
If all goes well next weekend I might have the turbo mounted
01-14-2010, 05:46 PM
#41
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yeah a 2jz supra motor swap. Since the motors are so cheap, i thought about it a couple of times. The stock block can take 600whp with no problems. Even the auto tranny can do 350whp stock and the 6speed manual can do 500whp.
Props if you can do a whole turbo setup in one week.
01-14-2010, 06:06 PM
#42
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the LS, GSR and Type R were all available to the US market. There different trim levels on a integra with different but related motors.
yeah a 2jz supra motor swap. Since the motors are so cheap, i thought about it a couple of times. The stock block can take 600whp with no problems. Even the auto tranny can do 350whp stock and the 6speed manual can do 500whp.
Props if you can do a whole turbo setup in one week.
yeah a 2jz supra motor swap. Since the motors are so cheap, i thought about it a couple of times. The stock block can take 600whp with no problems. Even the auto tranny can do 350whp stock and the 6speed manual can do 500whp.
Props if you can do a whole turbo setup in one week.
The turbo will be mounted then the turbo up pipe will be next. I'm still debating if I should enclose the turbo so it will be a little more stealthier.
I'm having doubt about heat issues. Basically turbo in a muffler housing. If that will cause heat issues then I can leave the top part and one side open. I want to do this so from the back the turbo is not visible.
What do you think?
P.S. the engine swap sounds like a good idea. This is definitely something to do in the future as a project car
(maybe buy a salvage w203 and strip it and make it into a project car )I have always wanted to take on this project with the 190e but with the price of the w203 coming down I might keep the family line going
I think with the m272 I might be able to pull off minimum 30hp per lbs. So something even with 4psi (which i think is extremely safe) I will add 120 to the crank
Also I think MAX (maximum) and this is the best and cleanest job I will pull it off no more than 5k (everything top of the line including the tune). I think I might get away with a decent job for 3k. My only worry is the scavenger pump. I heard stories of them going out. Turbo I'm not even worried. For the low boost I know even the shytiest turbo will do.What do you guys think?
01-14-2010, 06:24 PM
#43
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yeah keep it stealth if possible. I think you should be ok from the heat stand point since you have all that air from under the car to cool the piping.
01-22-2010, 08:26 PM
#44
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Once this rain settles down I'm gonna go get the turbo mounted (especially since I sold my Lorinser wheels I have some money laying around-pay CC bills or Turbo loool). Anyone know a good place in SoCal that can do the piping? I need full custom piping done. I knew an exhaust shop but after what I told them they dont want to touch the car.
I want to have the air be sucked by the rear wheel well. I think this will be much safer than just having it from the bottom.
Red is the exhaust and blue is the boost. Green is turbo, yellow is intercooler and purple is engine.
Anyone know a good place that can have this done for me? (in SoCal) Also I wanna hide the turbo is some sort of muffler housing. So from the back it looks like a muffler.
I want to have the air be sucked by the rear wheel well. I think this will be much safer than just having it from the bottom.
Red is the exhaust and blue is the boost. Green is turbo, yellow is intercooler and purple is engine.
Anyone know a good place that can have this done for me? (in SoCal) Also I wanna hide the turbo is some sort of muffler housing. So from the back it looks like a muffler.
Last edited by W203E35; 01-22-2010 at 08:28 PM.
you still owe us pics 
01-23-2010, 03:05 AM
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
.Pay off some CC debt. Find a place to lease (shouldn't be hard in this bad economy to find a good place for a good price). Pay recent ticket and turbo the C350.
A lot of stuff on the table.
I'll get those pics soon.
01-23-2010, 08:26 PM
#48
Super Moderator
I'll go talk to them. I forgot about them, I heard they do a very clean job.
I have to go get those hamsters back. I have soo much stuff going around now it's crazy. BUT I promised a turbo and I will accomplish it.
Pay off some CC debt. Find a place to lease (shouldn't be hard in this bad economy to find a good place for a good price). Pay recent ticket and turbo the C350.
A lot of stuff on the table.
I'll get those pics soon.
I have to go get those hamsters back. I have soo much stuff going around now it's crazy. BUT I promised a turbo and I will accomplish it
.Pay off some CC debt. Find a place to lease (shouldn't be hard in this bad economy to find a good place for a good price). Pay recent ticket and turbo the C350.
A lot of stuff on the table.
I'll get those pics soon.
JK man i can't wait to see this completed next time i am in CA i might have to see it for my self.
