SeaCoupe

Honestly, I don't know what they look like, but I saw a white gear attached to a small black motor on the drivers side near the center console. I assume that was it.

SeaCoupe

End of day two, here is where I stand. I have the new Brake Light switch, but it has no bearing on the car. I have the center console out, the shift surround, ashtray, and the aluminum plate that goes from the end of the ashtray to the glovebox. Cupholder is out, as is the cigarette lighter. I disconnected the battery because right now, the dash stays on? Don't know why.

Issues, no particular order.

How does the connector to the cig lighter come off?

How does the whole tunnel come off?

Needs

I'll need a document for taking off the tunnel trim

I hope I can get an exploded view of the shift mechanism itself.

I can see the whole shift assembly and the black module that is likely the cause of my issues. You know, sometimes how you just know. As soon as I saw the module, I knew it was that piece of ish.

When I get the armrest tunnel removed I can take off the shift mechanism. I'm willing to bet without the mechanism and the ***** of a black box, I'll feel silky smooth shifts in that trans. On the off hand that it is something in the trans itself, I have some serious thinking to do. I know it in my bones though. It is not the trans itself. Sure it is a bit wonky on cold days in the a.m., and yes High RPM shifts were less than stellar, but gear selection prior to this was never an issue. That trans was operating, shes loyal to me. She's been a good soldier.

Tired, annoyed, and I need a Gin.

Glyn M Ruck

Mark,
Do these help you explain?

mleskovar

Yes, thanks Glyn! Ed....the last picture in the series of three that Glyn just sent - as you look at the picture, there are two 10mm bolt heads shown almost in the middle of the picture - just below and to the left of the upper bolt is a black piece of plastic that looks like a finger sticking down and coming out of the white plastic box that the shift mechanism is mounted in - that's the transmission lever interlock over ride link/switch. When you remove the coin tray the hole that's exposed beneath it is just above that lever. A screwdriver/pencil/pen down the hole and a push on that link releases the shift lever out of park without the key in the ignition so you can put the car in neutral to tow it. There's a whole writeup for removing the console...search under 'stepper motor'. Be careful, there's two dutz fasteners at the end of the console where it butts up against the dash, if you rotate them too far you'll do major damage to the tunnel.

johnand

Ed,

Attached are some more docs to help you out. Let me know what else you need.

Also, I tried a few things on my car. I was able to shift to reverse AND park w/o my foot on the brake. Granted, you already replaced the stop lamp switch, and I have the 722.9 trans, but just wanted to put that out there. Looking at the docs, it appears your car has the park interlock tied to the linkage, so maybe it is am adjustment issue?

SeaCoupe

Thanks Glyn, John and Mleskovar. I have full access to transmission's interlock over ride switch. When I full depress it, nothing happens. Shifting still works between N to D, but no other gears.

I saw the Dutz fastners. I loosened them, but I see that they have locking type heads so I didn't go to far. Still don''t know how to get them out.

My work day is about done, so I can get back to the car.

Thank goodness it is a long weekend.


Ed

mleskovar

Did you try different combinations of putting in the key and depressing it and seeing if you can go to P?


They're captive and don't come all the way out if I remember correctly. If you have the rest of the bolts and screws holding the tunnel removed, once you loosen those two fasteners just a quick jerk on the tunnel towards the rear of the car will work.

SeaCoupe

Yep, brake on, brake off, key in and turned to running position. I think it is something in the linkage box. Just got to get her off.

I think in reading the pdf, I saw that the center console needed to be open and have some nuts taken out. So I need to get those and then a yank.

The cig lighter, I can't seem to figure out how that connector comes off. I'm likely to cut the wires, and then recrimp on installation.

Glyn M Ruck

mleskovar

Yes, remove the pad at the bottom of the arm rest lower compartment. See Glyn's last picture.

You can just pull the center console back far enough to get at everything, no need to cut wires.

Glyn M Ruck

John,
These are extremely interesting. You have just uncovered for me one of the differences in the SA model security system. I note cable units on the American interlock. SA models fire a pin electronically via solenoid into the shifter & internally in the gearbox to lock up the transmission - all EIS/CAN controlled. No key & you have to pick up the vehicle.

We don't have your snazzy cupholder fitted either. My car has a longer segmented sliding cover than shown in the forum pics I've posted - I think I've seen this variant in the US with armrest set back slightly further.

splinter

Damn. First I’ve read of your predicament, emrliquidlife.
Good to know the stalwarts here have come to the aid of a respected member in need.

Certain you’ll get things squared away soon.

johnand

Ed,

Any update? Is there anything else I can try and find for you?

Glyn M Ruck

How are you progressing Squire?

W203E35

Me and Ed have a date later on today . I'll see what the good old SDS can do. If I reset this system and clear it do you guys think this will solve the problem?

johnand

Run the quick test, and reset all control modules that have faults, and go from there. Really glad you are able to help Ed out!

W203E35

Thanks for the info John, will do. He told me he is going to take me to Chuck E Cheese's after I fix his car...I can't wait

Glyn M Ruck

Karo - That's really good news! Putting your STAR to good use to help a member. I might be wrong because US cars & ours seem marginally different but I think there are multiple issues here. Namely - resetting everything (ESP/BAS & whatever this "Restraint failure" is.) & a possible mechanical issue - Cable adjustments? something mechanically jammed or damaged in the shift mechanism or interlock mechanism or both.

Glyn M Ruck

Oop! we are all replying over one another!

johnand

Agreed. Based on the documents, it looks like the transmission issue is interlock/linkage/adjustment related. The other issues that arose from the fuse pulling session, should just need a simple reset. Good luck guys!

W203E35

Good to know on the mechanical end. Let's say I reset the error. If it's a mechanical error should the error come back up? Most likely right?

Glyn M Ruck

If the car can be driven/started once everything is reset. The mechanical condition might show up if it's part of the OBDII monitoring regime as implemented by Benz. Problem is that some issues are counted & stored until they reach a predetermined level that triggers a CEL. With your STAR you can read the minute codes are being stored. So let's hope the problem is monitored. Many issues are not.

If you broke off your shift knob in a rage when someone parked you in - sound familiar? - the OBDII system & STAR would not help but observation would

W203E35

Thanks for the info guys. Hopefully a quick reset will work.

W203E35

Heading to Ed's to hopefully fix his car. Wish me luck guys

SeaCoupe

So the car doesn't want to talk to the STAR via OBDII. We need to find the connector that is in the engine bay. Anyone know where this circular plug is located?

Good news is that I can get all gears via the shift rod. So trans is ok.