Not sure we're communicating... The standard wheel/tire package in 2001/2002 was 205/55 (I know because that's what came on my non-sport package C320). My point was that those who ordered the Sport Package in 2001/2002 got 225/50 tires.

 

Oh okay my bad, i thought you were saying that the standard tires weren't 205/55.

 

About 7,000 miles ago, I had Fuzion Zri's put on my '02. My driving is nearly all highway as I travel frequently between PA and NC. That being said, I casually looked at my tire wear 3,000 miles ago (so the tires were 4,000 miles old) and the back tires were bald, and I do mean bald. I was irate and went into the dealer who installed them for me, asking about some type of warrenty which they told me was not good for Z-rated tires. Unaccepting of this, I called Fuzion and they were willing to replace the rear tires.
2 weeks ago, I changed the brake pads and rotors and my tires were fine. Since then I have made a round trip from PA to NC (about 1,000 miles total). I look at my tires this morning and the back ones are completely bald (rear tires 3,000 miles old). I just had a "B" Service a few weeks ago and nothing was said. The tires are wearing evenly too. What would/could cause this added pressure on the rear tires. I have not been driving the vehicle hard at all.
The repeated problems I've had with this car, make me want to total it and go back to Honda.

 

I guess I find it puzzling that you want to blame the car for your tire choice. Put a decent long-wearing tire on the car, and they'll last. After the next tire change, have it properly aligned.

Our boring, standard C240 has boring, standard 205/55x16 Conti CH95s on it; I rotate them using a 5-way pattern [I have a real alloy spare] every 3000 miles, and at 24,000 miles they are less than half worn [and have never been rebalanced].

You can't go to soft-compound, Z-rated tires that are basically for the track, and then expect them to last. That said, there are lots of choices out there. Pick another tire [call the Tire Rack for their recommendation on something that will last], make sure you have a full 4-wheel alignment done, and keep the pressures where they belong. I'm hard-pressed to see where the car is the problem here.

 

Your differential is locked up and not working properly. But that's a REAL long shot and more than likely it's the tires. Did your previous rear tires wear as quickly?

 

I'm not getting tire wear problems (for now) but since I installed my 17x8.5" wheels at the back with 245/40 bridgestone RE050tires (3000miles done), when rolling in highway, at some high speeds (110mph->145mph) when I stop for refuel or something else, I'm noticing a burned rubber smell at the back!!!
Could be the differential or something else???
I have a 6spd box...

 

[QUOTE=gaiex]when rolling in highway, at some high speeds (110mph->145mph) when I stop for refuel or something else, I'm noticing a burned rubber smell at the back!!!QUOTE]
I'm not talking from personal experience but I would think it's normal to smell the hot tire rubber when traveling at those speeds!

 

no its not...

I rolle many times at those speed with all my cars and never had that smell, even before I installed the new tires...
I'm also getting a lot less top speed for some times, and my dealer can't find anything in my engine, its all ok with the engine, but now you guys talk in the differential, I can think better

 

If you didn't start having the smell until you put new tires on it's probably the tires. The only reason I mentioned differential is boylinator seemed to rule tires and alignment options out so what else is there? Diff failure is rare but possible. We used to weld up the spider gears in the differential back in the 60's for a poor man's positraction. It worked great in the 1/4 mile but around town it cornered poorly and the wear on back tires was terrible.

 

I'm having a fast wear in the outside front tires also! the steering is aligned and my dealer doesn't know what it is (all bushings are ok), friday I will drop the car there...

 

What are those? I've never even heard of em. What's the rating on them? I've travelled many times at high speeds with my tires and they're not that great (Michelin Energy MX4 i think) and I never get any problems. I'm at 15k and still have tread left. I'm guessing that it might possibly be a deffective tire...

 

Maybe I didn't make it clear that I have replaced the rear tires twice in a span of 7,000 miles!!!
I was rear-ended by a drunk driver a little while back, but I had my dealership check the alignment and they stated there was nothing wrong. Clearly there is still a problem.
------------------------
I guess I find it puzzling that you want to blame the car for your tire choice. Put a decent long-wearing tire on the car, and they'll last. After the next tire change, have it properly aligned.

Our boring, standard C240 has boring, standard 205/55x16 Conti CH95s on it; I rotate them using a 5-way pattern [I have a real alloy spare] every 3000 miles, and at 24,000 miles they are less than half worn [and have never been rebalanced].
-------------------------------
I blame the car b/c it's been one thing after another. What if you went to rotate the tires at 3,000 miles and your rears were already gone. Unfortunately I don't inspect my tires every time I get in the car. Has anyone ever had to replace the ESP sensor 4 times? or have the catalytic converter replaced, new transmission, clutch, emergency brake repair, sunroof track break so you can't open or close the sunroof...................all before the car reaches 65,000. And nearly all of these miles have been on the freeway b/t 65-75mph.
I'm just a frustrated MB owner who can't handle many more of these problems!

 

I don't know but mb-bob says if you underinflate your tires by going with the pressures suggested by Mercedes, your tires won't last too long

 

I have no idea what kinda tires these "fuzion's" are, but soft compound tires wear for ****. Seriously. My first set of pilots lasted less than 10K miles in the back. Its not the car, its the compound.

As for your other problems, it might be time to lemon this particular car...BTW, C-Class parking brakes are ****. THey ALL are ****. If you use it, it will break. Since most cars are automatics, very few people actually use it.

 

Fuzion Zr...there's your problem. they are rated at 320aa, but don't mean they have good quality.

 

I'll have to search for that post; I just got my 2nd flat in a month, this time hitting a ridge in new asphalt maybe 1.5 inches high. Luke says to add about 5 lbs to the lowPro 17's for extra protection (wish he'd told me that when I bought the last tire, three weeks ago).

 

Hi Eddie,

No need to search. Here's that thread

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119965

 

Start with making sure your pressures are correct and get a second opinion on alignment by another shop. After that, focus on your brakes and differential.

Just to confirm, since this is a performance tire, what is your treadlife rating and what is your driving style. Other than these trips to NC, are you tracking or doing doughnuts?

My money is on alignment (4 wheel) being off.

 

The thread is nonconclusive.....but a little search found an answer from Luke....."MB recommended pressures are based on the cars' weight .... stick with what the sticker says".

 

I have a 2001 C320 Sport that is in need of tires. I did a search and read the other threads on tires for the C-class but wanted to hear if anyone else has suggestions. One suggestion from the other thread was the Pirelli PZero Nero M&S. The price on these are good on tirerack.com at $101.

My questions/concerns are:

1. Due to the fact that I live in Atlanta, GA do I need all-season tires or can I get away with Summer tires?

2. I would like to have a tire that takes corners well.

3. I would like it to perform well in wet traction.

Any suggestions?

Robb Sundmaker
2001 C320 Sport
Cumming, Georgia, USA

 

toyo proxies 4
I have it and i like it allot

 

also not so expensive

 

If you have ANY snow in Atlanta, odds are that the town shuts down. Stick with the summer tires, and stay off the road if there are flurries.

 

One other thing is I have a Land Rover Discovery that I use for off-roading and drive to work occasionally. I will use that anytime it snows. It has 235x85x16 Goodyear Mud Terrains on it.

 

All season tires for cars and minivans

Our comprehensive 36-tire report includes top performers for what--and how--you drive.

These mass-market tires, typically in S (112 mph) and T (118 mph) speed ratings, are good choices for many family cars and minivans, and even for light duty SUVs and pickups.

Our performance tests for braking, handling, and traction put some of this year's least expensive models near the top of the Ratings. Whichever tires you buy, knowing how they perform will make a smart choice easier. Here's what to think about--and how to keep your tires as safe as possible:

For many cars. Most car-tire buyers want long tread life and all-weather traction at a reasonable price. Those preferences help explain why the all-season car tires we focus on in this report are the best-selling replacements. Most are designed to perform reasonably well under a variety of conditions, with an emphasis on longevity.

Though most all-season tires are a compromise, this broad category includes many with strengths in certain areas. You'll also find some notable differences in price and tread-wear warranty; the tires we tested range from $33 models with 40,000- to 50,000-mile warranties to $85 models covered for up to 100,000 miles. Still other types of car tires are geared for specific driving needs. Choices include:

Performance tires. These usually sacrifice ride and winter performance for ultimate grip. A good choice for sporty cars, they tend to have stickier tread and firmer sidewalls that help them stop shorter and hang on longer during hard cornering. They also tend to be expensive (about $70 to $120).

Winter tires. These offer the best traction on snow and ice, and are best for snowy areas. But their tread isn't designed for longevity--a key reason these tires should be removed when the snow season ends. Winter tires should be mounted on all four wheels for safe handling. Most cost from $60 to $100.

You'll find high-scoring, previously tested models among those types in the Ratings.

For SUVs and pickups. All-terrain and all-season tires are the most common for these vehicles. All-terrain tires have a more aggressive tread for off-pavement grip, while all-seasons are geared more toward ride comfort and on-road use. Since SUVs remain mostly on the road, all-terrain tires are moving toward less aggressive tread for better ride and handling on pavement. The Ratings include both, usually priced from about $50 to $80.

The right specs. You'll usually find the proper size on the doorjamb or inside the glovebox or fuel-filler door. Be sure new tires are the same size with the same speed and load ratings (see How to read a tire). While most car owners have a choice of replacement tires, automakers may advise SUV owners to stick with the tire type originally on their vehicle; switching can adversely affect handling.

The right pressure. Low air pressure has figured prominently in the debate over Firestone tire failures. Underinflated tires tend to flex excessively, which can cause overheating and lead to failure, along with poor handling and reduced fuel economy.

A 10° F drop in outside temperature lowers a tire's pressure by about 1 pound per square inch (psi). Tires also tend to leak air over time. See Tire pressure air loss, our one-year evaluation observing air loss in 108 tires. Pressure loss averaged 6.6 psi, but some models lost much more than others did.

Check air pressure monthly, when tires are cold. And follow the vehicle manufacturer's inflation recommendations in the owner's manual, on the door jamb, or inside the fuel-filler door. Other safety steps:

Stay within the weight capacity listed in your vehicle owner's manual. Overloading makes the tires flex more and run hotter, increasing the risk of a failure.

Examine tires often and replace any that have cuts, bubbles, or bulges, which could mean a failure is imminent.

Check for uneven wear, which may mean poor alignment, brakes, or shock absorbers. And replace any tire with tread approaching 1/16-inch deep.


Car tires

Like most all-season tires, those we tested fall into three groups, based largely on their tread-wear warranties. "Premium" tires are covered for 80,000 to 100,000 miles, "midline" for 60,000 to 70,000 miles, and "economy" for 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

Pricing doesn't always follow that tidy hierarchy, however. Nor do a tire's braking, handling, and traction performance; several of the economy tires we tested for this report did nearly as well overall as high-scoring premium and midline models, yet cost up to $40 less.


WHAT WE TESTED

We bought the newly tested premium and economy all-season car tires in size P195/70R14, which fits our 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier tire-test car and matches the midline models included from our 2000 report. But you can use our overall judgments for all three groups as a yardstick for other 14- and 15-inch sizes of the same models.

Most of these tires come with a maximum speed rating of S (112 mph) or T (118 mph); other speed ratings are detailed in How to read a tire. While such speeds may sound wildly unrealistic, tires with higher speed ratings tend to deliver better handling at normal highway speeds. As the Recommendations & notes in the Ratings detail, only one of three nonspeed-rated economy tires we tested--the Cooper Trendsetter SE--did reasonably well in both our wet- and dry-cornering tests.


RECOMMENDATIONS

Our tests revealed impressive performers in all three groups. Which you choose should depend on what kind of driving you do and how much you're willing to spend.

* For all-around driving, the premium Kelly Navigator Platinum TE , $55, and Yokohama Avid Touring, $50, performed impressively and offer a good warranty for less.

* If you value responsive handling, consider the economy Uniroyal Tiger Paw ASC, $33, which gripped tenaciously through our cornering tests. Also consider the midline Pirelli P400 Touring, $59, which was impressive and has a longer warranty.

* For snow-belt driving, a top choice is the midline BFGoodrich Control T/A M65, $50, a high-scoring model with excellent snow traction. The midline Kelly Navigator Gold, $63, is another fine choice, as is the economy Futura Euro-Metric, $35. But the Kelly sacrifices dry and wet cornering.

Whichever tires you choose, note that all tread-wear warranties are prorated; the more the tread is worn, the less the warranty is worth. Remember, too, that those warranties usually don't cover damage from potholes and other road hazards.





This is part of a ratings performance chart from top down.......

•1 Falken Ziex ZE 512
$60
•2 Bridgestone Turanza LS-H
100
•3 Bridgestone Potenza RE950
85
4 Michelin Pilot XGT H4
85
5 Dunlop SP Sport A2
65
•6 Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus
120
7 Pirelli P6 Four Seasons
75
8 Sumitomo Srixon 4
65
9 Yokohama A550H
65
10 Continental ContiTouringContact CH95
70
11 Kelly Charger HR
75
12 Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE
70
13 Yokohama Avid H4
Note: Discontinued.
70
14 Toyo Proxes TPT
90
15 Goodyear Eagle LS
70
16 Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring HR
70
17 General Exclaim
75
18 Firestone Affinity LH30





Top scorers blend added grip with less noise. Some of the most comfortable and fuel-efficient tires scored lowest overall, however. And for both groups, price bore little relationship to performance.

The Ratings rank tires by overall performance within types. Our Quick Picks focus on value and specific driving needs, and include previously tested, high- scoring tires of other types.


QUICK PICKS
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Performance all-season tires

Best for most; fine grip with comfort:

1 Falken $60 (sport)

2 Bridgestone $100 (touring)
The Falken (1) emphasizes braking and ride, the Bridgestone (2) handling.




If fuel mileage is a priority:

6 Michelin $120 (touring)
This model is among the lowest for rolling resistance, but it’s pricey.




If winter driving isn’t a factor, or you own a set of winter tires:

3 Bridgestone $85 (sport)
It offers the best three-season grip in this category.


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Good choices for other tires

All-season tires:

Kelly Navigator Platinum TE $75

Pirelli P400 Touring $60




Winter tires:

Dunlop SP Winter Sport M2 $120 (H-rated)

Kumho I’zen Stud KW-11 $55 (Q-rated)





SUV and pickup tires:

Toyo M410 Open Country Radial $90 (all-season)

Dayton Timberline A/T $65 (all-terrain)