I've searched a bit and cannot find a good exploded view of the rear suspension. This arm snapped today, causing the rear tire to angle inwards and ESP to go crazy. I thought I had a flat tire, then found this.

I'm unfortunately going to have to buy one at the dealer for a small fortune (Canadian dealer parts are marked up to ridiculous levels) so I'm sure they can figure it out for me - yet for my own interest - what part is this?

What would be the part # for a 2003 C230 coupe?

 

the part is a Tie Rod 203-350-07-53 which is $63.75 out of Annapolis MB, figure about $120 out of MB Canada


https://www.getmercedesparts.com/mer...***-parts.html

 

Cool it. I'll find a P/N

 

Really hard to tell from your photo's - hopefully Glyn will chime in here. Looks like it might be part of the rear tie rod, but it's been so long since I've worked on the rear of the W203 I can't remember for sure.

WIS under 35.075 really isn't helpful diagram wise...


EDITED : LOL, I always forget how quick people are on the 203 forum!

 

OK - you don't need a P/N - thanks B v

 

In case

200 A 210 350 34 06 CAMBER STRUT
LEFT AND RIGHT 002
210 A 002 990 28 12 SCREW
CAMBER STRUTS TO WHEEL CARRIER
M12X1.5X80 002
220 A 210 357 06 75 WASHER
CAMBER STRUTS TO WHEEL CARRIER 002
225 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
CAMBER STRUTS TO WHEEL CARRIER 001
230 N 910113 3012003 NUT
CAMBER STRUTS TO WHEEL CARRIER
M12X1.5 002
235 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
CAMBER STRUTS TO WHEEL CARRIER 001
240 A 001 990 67 12 SCREW
THRUST ARM, CAMBER STRUT AND STRUT ON REAR SUBFRAME 006
245 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
THRUST ARM, CAMBER STRUT AND STRUT ON REAR SUBFRAME 006
250 N 910113 3012003 NUT
THRUST ARM, CAMBER STRUT AND STRUT ON REAR SUBFRAME
M12X1.5 006
260 A 210 350 33 06 STRUT
LEFT AND RIGHT 002
270 A 002 990 28 12 SCREW
STRUT TO WHEEL BEARING
M12X1.5X80 002
280 A 210 357 06 75 WASHER
STRUT TO WHEEL BEARING 002
285 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
STRUT TO WHEEL BEARING 002
290 N 910113 3012003 NUT
STRUT TO WHEEL BEARING
M12X1.5 002
330 A 002 990 28 12 SCREW
THRUST ARM TO WHEEL BEARING
M12X1.5X80 002
340 A 210 357 06 75 WASHER
THRUST ARM TO WHEEL BEARING 002
345 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
THRUST ARM TO WHEEL BEARING 002
350 N 910113 3012003 NUT
THRUST ARM TO WHEEL BEARING
M12X1.5 002
360 A 201 352 09 88 COVER
THRUST ARM 002
370 A 210 350 38 06 THRUST ARM
LEFT AND RIGHT 002
400 A 203 350 07 53 TIE ROD
WITH REPAIR KIT 002
405 A 140 350 11 70 REPAIR KIT
TIE ROD TO REAR SUBFRAME 002
410 A 201 352 88 65 RUBBER BEARING
REPAIR SIZE; WITH ECCENTRIC INTERIOR BUSHING
OptionPart_With: A 124 352 43 65 002
410 A 124 352 43 65 RUBBER BEARING
REPAIR SIZE; WITH ECCENTRIC INTERIOR BUSHING
OptionPart_With: A 201 352 88 65 002
420 A 202 990 11 51 NUT
TIE ROD TO WHEEL BEARING
M10 002
430 A 140 352 13 76 WASHER
TIE ROD TO REAR SUBFRAME
OptionPart_With: A 220 352 01 76 002
430 A 220 352 01 76 WASHER
TIE ROD TO REAR SUBFRAME
OptionPart_With: A 140 352 13 76 002
435 A 210 357 02 75 WASHER
TIE ROD TO REAR SUBFRAME 002
440 N 910113 3012003 NUT
TIE ROD TO REAR SUBFRAME
M12X1.5 002
450 A 202 980 01 16 REPAIR KIT
REAR WHEEL BEARING 002
460 A 202 350 01 06 REPAIR KIT
FASTENING PARTS TO SPRING LINK 002
470 A 210 350 45 06 REPAIR KIT
MOUNTING PARTS CAMBER STRUT 002
470 A 210 350 45 06 REPAIR KIT
MOUNTING PARTS STRUT 002
470 A 210 350 45 06 REPAIR KIT
MOUNTING PARTS PUSHING STRUT

 

Wow, quick replies! Thanks everyone!

I was having a hard time understanding the exploded part diagrams, with your help in this diagram it is #9

 

How did you manage to snap the Tie Rod, I thought that Toronto had bad pot holes in the spring? Or were you drifting and clipped a curb?

Glyn picture is the detailed shot for the various linkages

I have the same picture in my Parts Catalogue for our car that I downloaded from some Russian site a while back

Here is the site http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/cat...&client=dr2000

 

400 A 203 350 07 53 TIE ROD
WITH REPAIR KIT 002

Cold weather & a hard clout?

 

I was driving straight if you believe that, ran over a man hole cover (very small bump) and heard a loud pop.

I am betting it is just wear and tear. In the last 2 months I have had > 200lbs of stuff in the back of my coupe that lowered the suspension ~1-2" each time. 2 years ago I drove across the country with my car packed with all my stuff, hit a bump and cracked one rear wheel, and bent the other. So... I was probably due for a suspension failure

I also have 190K kms on my car, 100K+ on lowered Tein Basics and usually run heavy replica 19x9.5 rear wheels.

 

I'd have to say the part is not designed well - yet only failed cause I abuse my car. The arm is really thin and the thickness is horizontal, not vertical like the other arms.

 

W203's are designed down to a price - I hear you!

 

Is there a Mercedes parts site with a better selection for the C coupe? MyMercedesParts.com (a sponsor) doesn't have an option for the coupe, all the parts are for the sedan. Most parts sites use the same interface, so its difficult to find C coupe parts.

Since I have to order a new tie rod I might as well order some other parts.

- I should replace the front end links and bushings.
- I need a passenger side front lower fender cover. I can find the part # for the sedan, its only $23.
- I'd like new door sills, mine are cracked and the paint bubbled from salt getting under the paint. I could repair/repaint, yet if they are cheap I'll just order them.
- I'd like a new passenger side grab handle, I broke mine when I removed the headliner to cover it in suede.


I've searched local junk yards yet a C coupe is rare for them to get in.

 

$116 CND for the part

I bought it and it comes with a bolt similar to the camber bolt for the front suspension... yet slightly different. The bolt comes with a washer that is also grooved, and the bolt itself has a washer attached to the bolt head which is off-centre.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't use this bolt, I want to setup the car exactly as it was. Going to tackle this in about an hour, so if anyone has any input, or better yet a PDF install guide, that would be great! Thanks in advance!

 

I have given you what I have. If you want things back the way they are put the old bolt back in the only place it will fit or the new bolt in the center location.

Your car may have fluted bolts fitted already. Benz sometimes fitted them in the rear but not the front????

 

Install the cam bolt. It is to adjust toe in the rear. Once installed, get a rear alignment ASAP.

 

I had to give up and take it to a shop. I got the nuts loose yet cannot pop the bolt out, or the ball joint. I need to invest in a puller, this is not the first ball joint I couldn't pull.

johnand - there's not a lot of adjustment in the rear, even the shop doesn't think I'll need an alignment.

I've requested that the shop raise the rear suspension at the same time. The Tein Basics have sagged ~1" over 5 years and the tires are tucked, when first installed I setup a 1 finger gap.

 

This is what John is talking about.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-toe-w203.html

 

I saw that thread, and even with the parts in my hands I didn't understand how it works... guess I'd need to see it with the stuck bolt out.

 

It is just a standard cam bolt like a large number of vehicles are fitted with. As you turn the eccentric bolt is moves the arm by changing it's center point. Yes, there is not a whole lot of adjustment in the rear, but that one specifically adjusts toe, and toe has the most effect on tire wear, so it is important to get set right.

 

Even the shop had trouble removing the rusty bolt, had to cut it out - then I remembered why.

I have poly rear bushings installed to correct camber, at a time when there were not camber kits available (speedy benz disappeared, and none of the current camber arms were out yet). The bolts for these bushings are huge, and seized in the bushing.

 

Sometimes I think that 3rd party 'tuner' parts don't have the quality control or strict manufacturing standards that the OEM originally designed for the long haul.

You will have to replace with a like part or change out the other one on the other side so that the two match

 

Looks like you have some rust issues.. Theres no way that arm could snap by going over a man hole that was covered up. I use to run the same rim size 19 9.5 never had any issues. trunk and back seats fully loaded on camping trips. No issues here. Looking at your pictures i see signs of rust. Rust is a big time no no and will eat anything. You may wanna look under your car and inspect the other sides as well. Hope its not a huge issue. But Glad my car has never touched salty snow roads or even snow before.

 

Dude, you live in San Diego!

For those of us in the snow belt this is a fact of life, cars rust. Many parts under the car will develop surface rust, yet that's it, nothing terrible. Its when rust hits body panels, floor boards, or bolts that it sucks.

The rear tie rod had zero rust, it just broke due to wear and tear. Hopefully your car does not share the same fate, since it sounds like you load it up just as often as I do.

 

I'm going to get an alignment done to see how far the 2 sides are out first.