vico1917

The ignition key will not turn after reconnecting the battery. The battery was reconnected and the key worked fine. I reset the clock, sunroof etc. and drove the car , starting and stopping approximately 8 times that day before parking overnight. The next morning the key would not turn. Checked the battery have 12.7 volts, installed new key batteries, still no turning. Tried spare key with new batteries, tried fob key ( skinny key ) no luck. Tried jiggling the steering wheel, foot on brake, checked all fuses still key will not turn.
When the key is inserted I hear a few low volume clicks then silent.
Is there a fuse or something device that can open the circuit between the battery and the ignition switch?

Any ideas? Thanks.

andrew_jackson

P-80_57-12 AUG 01 Smart Key(R) - Intermittently Inoperative

P-80_57-11 AUG 01 Ignition System - Electronic Ignition Switch Replacement

Had this happen to me once on my '02 C230 that has the same Service Bulletins, luckily it was the Intermittently Inoperative, I waited about 30 mins. and the car started fine and hasn't done it again.

Is your steering unlocking? Could be the low volume clicks you are hearing?

vico1917

[QUOTE=andrew_jackson;5928262]P-80_57-12 AUG 01 Smart Key(R) - Intermittently Inoperative

P-80_57-11 AUG 01 Ignition System - Electronic Ignition Switch Replacement

Had this happen to me once on my '02 C230 that has the same Service Bulletins, luckily it was the Intermittently Inoperative, I waited about 30 mins. and the car started fine and hasn't done it again.

Is your steering unlocking? Could be the low volume clicks you are hearing?[/QUOTE

vico1917

Steering is not unlocking

samaritrey

Well you did good detective work tried multiple keys as well as battery voltage. The only thing I would also try is if you have the wheel turned strange or it is being pushed against the lock relieve the pressure and then put the key in. I once had an issue where someone else drove my car and had the wheel turned all the way and it was against a small curb so a lot of pressure was against the lock and it would not let me turn the key. I noticed the wheel was pushing on the lock and took care of that and have never had an issue with the key again and that was 100,000 miles ago. I doubt that is your issue though you will need to get the car hooked up to a star system to see what errors are coming up. Is it cold where you are? if so try to warm the car up as sometimes when having a failing EIS heat will get it working again.

If it is an EIS issue it can get very expensive search on here and you can learn a lot about how the system works and how expensive it is. It is a weak point even on the new w204's.


BTW you have one of the flat keys that has no buttons that is only a few mm thick? I have never seen/heard of someone with another one but me they are so nice to have around as a hidden key. FYI you normal key fob can start the car with dead/no battery's in them so replacing the batteries won't make a difference except for maybe range and unlocking of the doors. The EIS is what powers the key that is how the small flat key works sort of like an electric toothbrush or the new phones with wireless charging.

andrew_jackson

It's looking like the EIS( Electronic Ignition Switch ), it could need to be replaced. That's very expensive.

You may try to disconnect the ground side of the battery for 15 mins. and see if that resets the system and gets the EIS working again.

I also found this:

Glyn M Ruck

Sounds like the ESL/EIS is toast.

tommy

Yep, hope the OP has some savings. That's gonna hurt.

Makes sense, as there have been a string of EIS failures here recently.

vico1917

When you insert the key (position 0) does the steering wheel lock release before turning the key to position 1 (ignition on) or after. Did it thousands of times but don't remember the sequence.

andrew_jackson

Yes, first the steering unlocks, then the key switch unlocks so you can turn it.

I also found another post where someone used a hairdryer to get their EIS working again, so that maybe worth trying.

DomeniqueM

Had this issue earlier today. After trying everything o found on Google I started checking the fuses. There are 3 different fuses that van cause this.... In the fuse box under the hood I pulled the top right fuse... On diagrams it's labeled 57 but in my car it's labeled 5..,tgr fuse was good. Do put it back in, heard the ignition click n it started right up. The fuse was just loose so there was a bad connection.

thomas513

I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my car, it turns out that I had a malfunctioning fuel pump relay, the relay was short circuit and causing the current to still flow in the fuel pump. I did a lot of searches on this issue and came on in depth article which may be worth reading, search for " Car keeps Running After Engine Turned Off on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes, you can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.