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2003 W203 won't start when TCM is connected
11-07-2017, 09:42 PM
#1
2003 W203 won't start when TCM is connected
Hi, I have searched the forum and other websites trying to find guidance on my problem but none of the information has helped to solve it. I am the owner of a 2003 C240 sedan which was running fine until a week ago. I do not use the vehicle that much but keep the battery charged to avoid the problems when the battery dies on these vehicles.
That day I had to go to the store about a mile away from myhouse and decided to take it for a ride. The car started right up, went to the store and the car behaved normally; got out of the store and the car started right up again and had no issues going back home. When I got home and pulled on the driveway, my garage remote would not work, not the one in the vehicle, because I have been not able to get it programmed; by the way, before heading to the store, I spent about 10 minutes trying to program it with no luck, Apparently the remote ran out of battery from trying to program the one in the car. I turned the car off to go inside the house to open the garage, right then my wife was getting home, I went back to my car and signaled her to open the garage, when she did, I turned the car on and pulled in the garage.
There is where the problem began, I put the car in Park but when releasing the brake pedal it would move forward, I shifted to reverse to back it up, but the car would still move forward, I tried Neutral but still would move forward. It did not show any malfunction messages neither check engine light. I turned the engine off and while in Neutral, pushed it backwards.I put it in Park again and the car would not start. Because it was already nigh time I decided to check it out the next day. I thought that it might be stuck in Drive and that would prevent it from starting.
I must mention that when I bought the car back in March, 2007, it had a lot of problems, The guy who sold it to me said that it would not start because of a bad fuel pump. Because of the price and good condition the vehicle appeared to be, I took the chance.Once in my garage, with the switch in the on position I could hear the fuel pump running and the gauge showed 1/2 tank, so I decided to start with the fuel filter. While replacing the filter, I noticed that no gas came out of the tank line. I replaced the fuel filter anyways to discard it from the possibilities. It had no gas at all even when the gauge showed otherwise. After pouring 5 gallons of gas in the tank, the gauge stayed at 1/2 tank; I thought I'll verify that later.After a couple of tries the engine fired up but with loud explosions in the engine area. After further inspection, I found a piece of metal at the front of the engine; the intake manifold was busted and had a hole in it.
I ordered a used one on eBay and replaced it. By then the battery had died completely and I recharged it. The car started ok, but showed two malfunctions: ESP and SRS. Also when driving it the car would go in limp mode and the shifter getting stuck in Park and the cruise control would not work. I did some research and found a procedure to put the transmission in learn mode using the ignition and the gas pedal. I was able to get the transmission to work normally but it would not last. I had to do that procedure over and over.
I also found information saying that due to the battery dying completely, the codes had to be resettled with a STAR system.
Because I still had the issue with the fuel gauge (showed 1/2 tank even after filling it up), besides the ESP, SRS, the car going on limp mode, no cruise control, and the shifter getting stuck in Park), I took it to German Specialists shop. They replaced the shifter with a used one I bought on eBay, the steering wheel angle sensor bought at the MB dealer, and the fuel sending unit with an OEM Bosch. They also said the battery was bad and replaced it with the original MB.
$1,900.00 later I picked up the vehicle, the SRS malfunction was still there, they said that their scanner showed that the rear driver's side air bag was defective , but that the MB dealer was the only one that could take care of that. I drove the car home, noticed that the fuel gauge was at half tank, but figured this time it was what it was; cruise control and shifting problems were gone.
By the time I made it home the gauge showed almost empty. I got under the car to check for leaks, there were none; inspected fuel lines and were dry, nothing in the engine compartment either. The next day I took it back to the shop and the day after they said that somebody had replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket one and that it would not communicate with the Bosch sending unit. They would not agree with my claim that the sending unit they replaced was not the problem, that had they replaced that aftermarket pump instead of the sending unit, the problem might have been resolved. I told them I would order it and bring the car back for them to install it for $200.00.
I ordered a BOSCH pump, but installed it myself, the gauge has no problems now.
As far as the SRS light, after a long troubleshooting process, I was able to get rid of it by removing and reinserting the 7.5 fuse in the engine fuse box.
The car had been running great until the present problem.
This is what I have done:
I checked the 13 pin connector at the transmission; no leaks.I checked my fuses and all of them are fine.
Tested the relays and they are good.
Checked for corroded, damaged connections and wires and they are good.
I removed the TCM from the passenger side to see if there were any ATF: there is any.
With the TCM disconnected I thought of turning on the switch for the computer to detect it was not there and after reconnecting it, and turning the switch on it would reset something.
So with the TCM disconnected and the shifter in Park, opened the switch to the on position, but decided to give it a try, and to my surprise the engine started right away.
The dash message said NO MALFUNCTION, and there was no check engine light.
I left it running for awhile and then thought what would happen if I connected the TCM.
I connected it and the car kept running with no warning messages or lights.
I kept it running some more.
Then I turned it off.
Tried to start it again and would not start.
Since there are two connectors, I tried to figure out which side was causing the problem, I reconnected the right side connector (I think is for data communication).
With the shifter in Park, the car started; NO MALFUNCTION, no check engine light.
Moving the shifter won't engage gears and won't show shifter position on dash.
Turned the car off, moved the shifter to R, car won't start.
Moved the shifter to P, car started.
This second time, the check engine light turned on, but NO MALFUNCTION MESSAGE on dash.
Connected Creader VIII.
P6000 Serial Communication Link (I figured because TCM is unplugged)
Also the scan showed 8 errors related to solenoids, communication, No info available.
With the engine running, connected the left connector.
With both connectors on TCM, shifter position shown on dash, NO MALFUNCTION, check engine still on.
Cleared fault memory.
Scanner shows NO DTC's.
Moved shifter to R and D, wont engage, but shifter position shows on dash.
Turned the car off.Tried to start car again, it would not start. NO MALFUNCTION message.
Tried disconnecting the right connector, leaving the left one in place (I think is has to do with the solenoids).
The car started, and pretty much the same behavior than when I did it with the right connector in place and the left one removed.
In summing up,
The car would not start if the TCM is connected.
It will start if I disconnect both of them or if I leave just one of the two connected.
I am completely lost; at first I thought it could be the used shifter that had failed, then with this TCM acting weird, I am almost putting the blame on it.
But I have been reading about bad solenoids, bad conductor plate, etc.
What leaves me without a clue, is that it would not show any codes or malfunctions when I get it to start and connect the TCM. It idles and revs ok, but it would not engage in gear and if the TCM is connected it would not start.
I am sorry for this long tale, but I thought that some history could help.
I'd really appreciate if somebody takes the time to give me some input in the right track.
That day I had to go to the store about a mile away from myhouse and decided to take it for a ride. The car started right up, went to the store and the car behaved normally; got out of the store and the car started right up again and had no issues going back home. When I got home and pulled on the driveway, my garage remote would not work, not the one in the vehicle, because I have been not able to get it programmed; by the way, before heading to the store, I spent about 10 minutes trying to program it with no luck, Apparently the remote ran out of battery from trying to program the one in the car. I turned the car off to go inside the house to open the garage, right then my wife was getting home, I went back to my car and signaled her to open the garage, when she did, I turned the car on and pulled in the garage.
There is where the problem began, I put the car in Park but when releasing the brake pedal it would move forward, I shifted to reverse to back it up, but the car would still move forward, I tried Neutral but still would move forward. It did not show any malfunction messages neither check engine light. I turned the engine off and while in Neutral, pushed it backwards.I put it in Park again and the car would not start. Because it was already nigh time I decided to check it out the next day. I thought that it might be stuck in Drive and that would prevent it from starting.
I must mention that when I bought the car back in March, 2007, it had a lot of problems, The guy who sold it to me said that it would not start because of a bad fuel pump. Because of the price and good condition the vehicle appeared to be, I took the chance.Once in my garage, with the switch in the on position I could hear the fuel pump running and the gauge showed 1/2 tank, so I decided to start with the fuel filter. While replacing the filter, I noticed that no gas came out of the tank line. I replaced the fuel filter anyways to discard it from the possibilities. It had no gas at all even when the gauge showed otherwise. After pouring 5 gallons of gas in the tank, the gauge stayed at 1/2 tank; I thought I'll verify that later.After a couple of tries the engine fired up but with loud explosions in the engine area. After further inspection, I found a piece of metal at the front of the engine; the intake manifold was busted and had a hole in it.
I ordered a used one on eBay and replaced it. By then the battery had died completely and I recharged it. The car started ok, but showed two malfunctions: ESP and SRS. Also when driving it the car would go in limp mode and the shifter getting stuck in Park and the cruise control would not work. I did some research and found a procedure to put the transmission in learn mode using the ignition and the gas pedal. I was able to get the transmission to work normally but it would not last. I had to do that procedure over and over.
I also found information saying that due to the battery dying completely, the codes had to be resettled with a STAR system.
Because I still had the issue with the fuel gauge (showed 1/2 tank even after filling it up), besides the ESP, SRS, the car going on limp mode, no cruise control, and the shifter getting stuck in Park), I took it to German Specialists shop. They replaced the shifter with a used one I bought on eBay, the steering wheel angle sensor bought at the MB dealer, and the fuel sending unit with an OEM Bosch. They also said the battery was bad and replaced it with the original MB.
$1,900.00 later I picked up the vehicle, the SRS malfunction was still there, they said that their scanner showed that the rear driver's side air bag was defective , but that the MB dealer was the only one that could take care of that. I drove the car home, noticed that the fuel gauge was at half tank, but figured this time it was what it was; cruise control and shifting problems were gone.
By the time I made it home the gauge showed almost empty. I got under the car to check for leaks, there were none; inspected fuel lines and were dry, nothing in the engine compartment either. The next day I took it back to the shop and the day after they said that somebody had replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket one and that it would not communicate with the Bosch sending unit. They would not agree with my claim that the sending unit they replaced was not the problem, that had they replaced that aftermarket pump instead of the sending unit, the problem might have been resolved. I told them I would order it and bring the car back for them to install it for $200.00.
I ordered a BOSCH pump, but installed it myself, the gauge has no problems now.
As far as the SRS light, after a long troubleshooting process, I was able to get rid of it by removing and reinserting the 7.5 fuse in the engine fuse box.
The car had been running great until the present problem.
This is what I have done:
I checked the 13 pin connector at the transmission; no leaks.I checked my fuses and all of them are fine.
Tested the relays and they are good.
Checked for corroded, damaged connections and wires and they are good.
I removed the TCM from the passenger side to see if there were any ATF: there is any.
With the TCM disconnected I thought of turning on the switch for the computer to detect it was not there and after reconnecting it, and turning the switch on it would reset something.
So with the TCM disconnected and the shifter in Park, opened the switch to the on position, but decided to give it a try, and to my surprise the engine started right away.
The dash message said NO MALFUNCTION, and there was no check engine light.
I left it running for awhile and then thought what would happen if I connected the TCM.
I connected it and the car kept running with no warning messages or lights.
I kept it running some more.
Then I turned it off.
Tried to start it again and would not start.
Since there are two connectors, I tried to figure out which side was causing the problem, I reconnected the right side connector (I think is for data communication).
With the shifter in Park, the car started; NO MALFUNCTION, no check engine light.
Moving the shifter won't engage gears and won't show shifter position on dash.
Turned the car off, moved the shifter to R, car won't start.
Moved the shifter to P, car started.
This second time, the check engine light turned on, but NO MALFUNCTION MESSAGE on dash.
Connected Creader VIII.
P6000 Serial Communication Link (I figured because TCM is unplugged)
Also the scan showed 8 errors related to solenoids, communication, No info available.
With the engine running, connected the left connector.
With both connectors on TCM, shifter position shown on dash, NO MALFUNCTION, check engine still on.
Cleared fault memory.
Scanner shows NO DTC's.
Moved shifter to R and D, wont engage, but shifter position shows on dash.
Turned the car off.Tried to start car again, it would not start. NO MALFUNCTION message.
Tried disconnecting the right connector, leaving the left one in place (I think is has to do with the solenoids).
The car started, and pretty much the same behavior than when I did it with the right connector in place and the left one removed.
In summing up,
The car would not start if the TCM is connected.
It will start if I disconnect both of them or if I leave just one of the two connected.
I am completely lost; at first I thought it could be the used shifter that had failed, then with this TCM acting weird, I am almost putting the blame on it.
But I have been reading about bad solenoids, bad conductor plate, etc.
What leaves me without a clue, is that it would not show any codes or malfunctions when I get it to start and connect the TCM. It idles and revs ok, but it would not engage in gear and if the TCM is connected it would not start.
I am sorry for this long tale, but I thought that some history could help.
I'd really appreciate if somebody takes the time to give me some input in the right track.
The following users liked this post:
lecha (11-09-2017)
11-09-2017, 01:36 AM
#3
Hopefully, a knowledgeable MB technician will give me a better one.
11-09-2017, 12:28 PM
#5
Thanks for replying. In a few words, the car would not crank/start. If I disconnect the TCM on the passenger side it would start. I was thinking that disconnecting the TCM is equivalent to disconnecting the 13 pin connector at the transmission as a way to test if the starter cutout switch in the conductor plate has failed as I read in another tread.
11-09-2017, 12:34 PM
#6
This is what I found on another trend. It is a very old one and it seems nobody reads anymore; that is why I started this new one.
Originally Posted by MBtech1098
Originally Posted by MBtech1098
Let step back and analyze your whole situation here. Now I am going to assume (and I really don't like to assume when diagnosing 
) that when you say no crank no start that the key turns in the EIS and that all the accessories and cluster illuminates...is that correct? Also I will assume this is a US spec vehicle as you make reference to "Autozone"
Further for some terminal designations in my description, please also reference Bosch terminal designations here:
http://www.type2.com/library/identifi/bosterm.htm
So lets begin assuming all previous statements...
We are working on a 2003 203 with M271 that will not crank or start but key turns in the EIS. This confirms that fuse 31 cannot be blown as this fuse provides circuit 30 to EIS, steering column module, and steering angle sensor...check
Now the next easiest check is to remove the relay N10/1kS and take a jumper wire and jump terminal 30 and 87 of the relay socket on the SAM N10/1. This should allow the starter to crank with the key on, if it cranks this confirms the starter, wiring, and fuse is ok. Now you need to look at the two measures listed below. There is one part where you state no power to N10/1f52, that is correct as it will only have power while the key is in the crank position. If it does not crank, then you need to look at what was just mentioned.
I am not sure what diagnosis tool you are using, but if you were using DAS and you have no DTC's but can communicate with ME, then that confirms fuse 57 is ok as this powers the ME and you would have no communication along with many additional CAN codes from other control units...check
Next step using DAS would be to check drive authorization of ME, ETC, ESM, and EIS. All those control units should say yes. If not then ou would need to look into the control unit not providing Drive auth. Assuming that is all ok...check
Now we need to look at the actual values in ETC (transmission). There is one value in particular we want to pay attention to and that is Y3/6s1 - this is our starter relay cutout switch which is part of the contact plate in the transmission. A simple check for this is unplug the round connector at the trans and the vehicle will now start (trans of course will be in limp home mode). This part is known for various failures, but if that checks ok then...check
Hope that helps!
) that when you say no crank no start that the key turns in the EIS and that all the accessories and cluster illuminates...is that correct? Also I will assume this is a US spec vehicle as you make reference to "Autozone"Further for some terminal designations in my description, please also reference Bosch terminal designations here:
http://www.type2.com/library/identifi/bosterm.htm
So lets begin assuming all previous statements...
We are working on a 2003 203 with M271 that will not crank or start but key turns in the EIS. This confirms that fuse 31 cannot be blown as this fuse provides circuit 30 to EIS, steering column module, and steering angle sensor...check
Now the next easiest check is to remove the relay N10/1kS and take a jumper wire and jump terminal 30 and 87 of the relay socket on the SAM N10/1. This should allow the starter to crank with the key on, if it cranks this confirms the starter, wiring, and fuse is ok. Now you need to look at the two measures listed below. There is one part where you state no power to N10/1f52, that is correct as it will only have power while the key is in the crank position. If it does not crank, then you need to look at what was just mentioned.
I am not sure what diagnosis tool you are using, but if you were using DAS and you have no DTC's but can communicate with ME, then that confirms fuse 57 is ok as this powers the ME and you would have no communication along with many additional CAN codes from other control units...check
Next step using DAS would be to check drive authorization of ME, ETC, ESM, and EIS. All those control units should say yes. If not then ou would need to look into the control unit not providing Drive auth. Assuming that is all ok...check
Now we need to look at the actual values in ETC (transmission). There is one value in particular we want to pay attention to and that is Y3/6s1 - this is our starter relay cutout switch which is part of the contact plate in the transmission. A simple check for this is unplug the round connector at the trans and the vehicle will now start (trans of course will be in limp home mode). This part is known for various failures, but if that checks ok then...check
Hope that helps!
11-09-2017, 03:09 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Once upon a time in a galaxy far far away A man posted the entire service history of his w203 but then failed to actually ask a question.
Was there an actual question in there somewhere?
Was there an actual question in there somewhere?
Hi, I have searched the forum and other websites trying to find guidance on my problem but none of the information has helped to solve it. I am the owner of a 2003 C240 sedan which was running fine until a week ago. I do not use the vehicle that much but keep the battery charged to avoid the problems when the battery dies on these vehicles.
That day I had to go to the store about a mile away from myhouse and decided to take it for a ride. The car started right up, went to the store and the car behaved normally; got out of the store and the car started right up again and had no issues going back home. When I got home and pulled on the driveway, my garage remote would not work, not the one in the vehicle, because I have been not able to get it programmed; by the way, before heading to the store, I spent about 10 minutes trying to program it with no luck, Apparently the remote ran out of battery from trying to program the one in the car. I turned the car off to go inside the house to open the garage, right then my wife was getting home, I went back to my car and signaled her to open the garage, when she did, I turned the car on and pulled in the garage.
There is where the problem began, I put the car in Park but when releasing the brake pedal it would move forward, I shifted to reverse to back it up, but the car would still move forward, I tried Neutral but still would move forward. It did not show any malfunction messages neither check engine light. I turned the engine off and while in Neutral, pushed it backwards.I put it in Park again and the car would not start. Because it was already nigh time I decided to check it out the next day. I thought that it might be stuck in Drive and that would prevent it from starting.
I must mention that when I bought the car back in March, 2007, it had a lot of problems, The guy who sold it to me said that it would not start because of a bad fuel pump. Because of the price and good condition the vehicle appeared to be, I took the chance.Once in my garage, with the switch in the on position I could hear the fuel pump running and the gauge showed 1/2 tank, so I decided to start with the fuel filter. While replacing the filter, I noticed that no gas came out of the tank line. I replaced the fuel filter anyways to discard it from the possibilities. It had no gas at all even when the gauge showed otherwise. After pouring 5 gallons of gas in the tank, the gauge stayed at 1/2 tank; I thought I'll verify that later.After a couple of tries the engine fired up but with loud explosions in the engine area. After further inspection, I found a piece of metal at the front of the engine; the intake manifold was busted and had a hole in it.
I ordered a used one on eBay and replaced it. By then the battery had died completely and I recharged it. The car started ok, but showed two malfunctions: ESP and SRS. Also when driving it the car would go in limp mode and the shifter getting stuck in Park and the cruise control would not work. I did some research and found a procedure to put the transmission in learn mode using the ignition and the gas pedal. I was able to get the transmission to work normally but it would not last. I had to do that procedure over and over.
I also found information saying that due to the battery dying completely, the codes had to be resettled with a STAR system.
Because I still had the issue with the fuel gauge (showed 1/2 tank even after filling it up), besides the ESP, SRS, the car going on limp mode, no cruise control, and the shifter getting stuck in Park), I took it to German Specialists shop. They replaced the shifter with a used one I bought on eBay, the steering wheel angle sensor bought at the MB dealer, and the fuel sending unit with an OEM Bosch. They also said the battery was bad and replaced it with the original MB.
$1,900.00 later I picked up the vehicle, the SRS malfunction was still there, they said that their scanner showed that the rear driver's side air bag was defective , but that the MB dealer was the only one that could take care of that. I drove the car home, noticed that the fuel gauge was at half tank, but figured this time it was what it was; cruise control and shifting problems were gone.
By the time I made it home the gauge showed almost empty. I got under the car to check for leaks, there were none; inspected fuel lines and were dry, nothing in the engine compartment either. The next day I took it back to the shop and the day after they said that somebody had replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket one and that it would not communicate with the Bosch sending unit. They would not agree with my claim that the sending unit they replaced was not the problem, that had they replaced that aftermarket pump instead of the sending unit, the problem might have been resolved. I told them I would order it and bring the car back for them to install it for $200.00.
I ordered a BOSCH pump, but installed it myself, the gauge has no problems now.
As far as the SRS light, after a long troubleshooting process, I was able to get rid of it by removing and reinserting the 7.5 fuse in the engine fuse box.
The car had been running great until the present problem.
This is what I have done:
I checked the 13 pin connector at the transmission; no leaks.I checked my fuses and all of them are fine.
Tested the relays and they are good.
Checked for corroded, damaged connections and wires and they are good.
I removed the TCM from the passenger side to see if there were any ATF: there is any.
With the TCM disconnected I thought of turning on the switch for the computer to detect it was not there and after reconnecting it, and turning the switch on it would reset something.
So with the TCM disconnected and the shifter in Park, opened the switch to the on position, but decided to give it a try, and to my surprise the engine started right away.
The dash message said NO MALFUNCTION, and there was no check engine light.
I left it running for awhile and then thought what would happen if I connected the TCM.
I connected it and the car kept running with no warning messages or lights.
I kept it running some more.
Then I turned it off.
Tried to start it again and would not start.
Since there are two connectors, I tried to figure out which side was causing the problem, I reconnected the right side connector (I think is for data communication).
With the shifter in Park, the car started; NO MALFUNCTION, no check engine light.
Moving the shifter won't engage gears and won't show shifter position on dash.
Turned the car off, moved the shifter to R, car won't start.
Moved the shifter to P, car started.
This second time, the check engine light turned on, but NO MALFUNCTION MESSAGE on dash.
Connected Creader VIII.
P6000 Serial Communication Link (I figured because TCM is unplugged)
Also the scan showed 8 errors related to solenoids, communication, No info available.
With the engine running, connected the left connector.
With both connectors on TCM, shifter position shown on dash, NO MALFUNCTION, check engine still on.
Cleared fault memory.
Scanner shows NO DTC's.
Moved shifter to R and D, wont engage, but shifter position shows on dash.
Turned the car off.Tried to start car again, it would not start. NO MALFUNCTION message.
Tried disconnecting the right connector, leaving the left one in place (I think is has to do with the solenoids).
The car started, and pretty much the same behavior than when I did it with the right connector in place and the left one removed.
In summing up,
The car would not start if the TCM is connected.
It will start if I disconnect both of them or if I leave just one of the two connected.
I am completely lost; at first I thought it could be the used shifter that had failed, then with this TCM acting weird, I am almost putting the blame on it.
But I have been reading about bad solenoids, bad conductor plate, etc.
What leaves me without a clue, is that it would not show any codes or malfunctions when I get it to start and connect the TCM. It idles and revs ok, but it would not engage in gear and if the TCM is connected it would not start.
I am sorry for this long tale, but I thought that some history could help.
I'd really appreciate if somebody takes the time to give me some input in the right track.
That day I had to go to the store about a mile away from myhouse and decided to take it for a ride. The car started right up, went to the store and the car behaved normally; got out of the store and the car started right up again and had no issues going back home. When I got home and pulled on the driveway, my garage remote would not work, not the one in the vehicle, because I have been not able to get it programmed; by the way, before heading to the store, I spent about 10 minutes trying to program it with no luck, Apparently the remote ran out of battery from trying to program the one in the car. I turned the car off to go inside the house to open the garage, right then my wife was getting home, I went back to my car and signaled her to open the garage, when she did, I turned the car on and pulled in the garage.
There is where the problem began, I put the car in Park but when releasing the brake pedal it would move forward, I shifted to reverse to back it up, but the car would still move forward, I tried Neutral but still would move forward. It did not show any malfunction messages neither check engine light. I turned the engine off and while in Neutral, pushed it backwards.I put it in Park again and the car would not start. Because it was already nigh time I decided to check it out the next day. I thought that it might be stuck in Drive and that would prevent it from starting.
I must mention that when I bought the car back in March, 2007, it had a lot of problems, The guy who sold it to me said that it would not start because of a bad fuel pump. Because of the price and good condition the vehicle appeared to be, I took the chance.Once in my garage, with the switch in the on position I could hear the fuel pump running and the gauge showed 1/2 tank, so I decided to start with the fuel filter. While replacing the filter, I noticed that no gas came out of the tank line. I replaced the fuel filter anyways to discard it from the possibilities. It had no gas at all even when the gauge showed otherwise. After pouring 5 gallons of gas in the tank, the gauge stayed at 1/2 tank; I thought I'll verify that later.After a couple of tries the engine fired up but with loud explosions in the engine area. After further inspection, I found a piece of metal at the front of the engine; the intake manifold was busted and had a hole in it.
I ordered a used one on eBay and replaced it. By then the battery had died completely and I recharged it. The car started ok, but showed two malfunctions: ESP and SRS. Also when driving it the car would go in limp mode and the shifter getting stuck in Park and the cruise control would not work. I did some research and found a procedure to put the transmission in learn mode using the ignition and the gas pedal. I was able to get the transmission to work normally but it would not last. I had to do that procedure over and over.
I also found information saying that due to the battery dying completely, the codes had to be resettled with a STAR system.
Because I still had the issue with the fuel gauge (showed 1/2 tank even after filling it up), besides the ESP, SRS, the car going on limp mode, no cruise control, and the shifter getting stuck in Park), I took it to German Specialists shop. They replaced the shifter with a used one I bought on eBay, the steering wheel angle sensor bought at the MB dealer, and the fuel sending unit with an OEM Bosch. They also said the battery was bad and replaced it with the original MB.
$1,900.00 later I picked up the vehicle, the SRS malfunction was still there, they said that their scanner showed that the rear driver's side air bag was defective , but that the MB dealer was the only one that could take care of that. I drove the car home, noticed that the fuel gauge was at half tank, but figured this time it was what it was; cruise control and shifting problems were gone.
By the time I made it home the gauge showed almost empty. I got under the car to check for leaks, there were none; inspected fuel lines and were dry, nothing in the engine compartment either. The next day I took it back to the shop and the day after they said that somebody had replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket one and that it would not communicate with the Bosch sending unit. They would not agree with my claim that the sending unit they replaced was not the problem, that had they replaced that aftermarket pump instead of the sending unit, the problem might have been resolved. I told them I would order it and bring the car back for them to install it for $200.00.
I ordered a BOSCH pump, but installed it myself, the gauge has no problems now.
As far as the SRS light, after a long troubleshooting process, I was able to get rid of it by removing and reinserting the 7.5 fuse in the engine fuse box.
The car had been running great until the present problem.
This is what I have done:
I checked the 13 pin connector at the transmission; no leaks.I checked my fuses and all of them are fine.
Tested the relays and they are good.
Checked for corroded, damaged connections and wires and they are good.
I removed the TCM from the passenger side to see if there were any ATF: there is any.
With the TCM disconnected I thought of turning on the switch for the computer to detect it was not there and after reconnecting it, and turning the switch on it would reset something.
So with the TCM disconnected and the shifter in Park, opened the switch to the on position, but decided to give it a try, and to my surprise the engine started right away.
The dash message said NO MALFUNCTION, and there was no check engine light.
I left it running for awhile and then thought what would happen if I connected the TCM.
I connected it and the car kept running with no warning messages or lights.
I kept it running some more.
Then I turned it off.
Tried to start it again and would not start.
Since there are two connectors, I tried to figure out which side was causing the problem, I reconnected the right side connector (I think is for data communication).
With the shifter in Park, the car started; NO MALFUNCTION, no check engine light.
Moving the shifter won't engage gears and won't show shifter position on dash.
Turned the car off, moved the shifter to R, car won't start.
Moved the shifter to P, car started.
This second time, the check engine light turned on, but NO MALFUNCTION MESSAGE on dash.
Connected Creader VIII.
P6000 Serial Communication Link (I figured because TCM is unplugged)
Also the scan showed 8 errors related to solenoids, communication, No info available.
With the engine running, connected the left connector.
With both connectors on TCM, shifter position shown on dash, NO MALFUNCTION, check engine still on.
Cleared fault memory.
Scanner shows NO DTC's.
Moved shifter to R and D, wont engage, but shifter position shows on dash.
Turned the car off.Tried to start car again, it would not start. NO MALFUNCTION message.
Tried disconnecting the right connector, leaving the left one in place (I think is has to do with the solenoids).
The car started, and pretty much the same behavior than when I did it with the right connector in place and the left one removed.
In summing up,
The car would not start if the TCM is connected.
It will start if I disconnect both of them or if I leave just one of the two connected.
I am completely lost; at first I thought it could be the used shifter that had failed, then with this TCM acting weird, I am almost putting the blame on it.
But I have been reading about bad solenoids, bad conductor plate, etc.
What leaves me without a clue, is that it would not show any codes or malfunctions when I get it to start and connect the TCM. It idles and revs ok, but it would not engage in gear and if the TCM is connected it would not start.
I am sorry for this long tale, but I thought that some history could help.
I'd really appreciate if somebody takes the time to give me some input in the right track.
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11-09-2017, 07:12 PM
#8
Either you are a genius or a clairvoyant.
Sorry for thinking you were being sarcastic.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!
11-09-2017, 08:24 PM
#9
Dear C230 Sport Coup:
The question is an intrinsic part of the explanation of problems with the vehicle. But don't try to understand it.
Thankfully, Russell understood it and hit the nail with his reply. My problem has been solved.
He is sharp and did not recommend banging on the starter as you did in the tread "Another no crank no start" problem: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-no-start.html
Thank you anyways for reading the post and replying.
The question is an intrinsic part of the explanation of problems with the vehicle. But don't try to understand it.
Thankfully, Russell understood it and hit the nail with his reply. My problem has been solved.
He is sharp and did not recommend banging on the starter as you did in the tread "Another no crank no start" problem: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-no-start.html
Thank you anyways for reading the post and replying.
Last edited by lecha; 11-09-2017 at 08:38 PM.
11-09-2017, 11:59 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
No problem, the fact that you said when you moved the gear lever to N or R and the car still moved forward told me already its a mechanical problem,
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
11-10-2017, 01:04 AM
#11
No problem, the fact that you said when you moved the gear lever to N or R and the car still moved forward told me already its a mechanical problem,
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
Had I not mentioned that, you would have not been able to use your expertise.
Probably my post was overboard and confusing, but I'm not that good of a writer. I am glad you found the meat.
THANKS AGAIN
11-10-2017, 01:24 AM
#12
No problem, the fact that you said when you moved the gear lever to N or R and the car still moved forward told me already its a mechanical problem,
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
Then the no cranking after switch off confirmed to me that the gearbox was not in park even though the lever was. So my logic says. Check linkage.
Glad you found it.
Any idea as to why getting the car started with the TCM disconnected and then reconnecting it, being that the car was in drive (I would say first gear, since I was pulling in my garage), the car would not move forward anymore?
It's just my mind trying to find a reason. Thanks
11-10-2017, 02:38 AM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
That's because although the gearbox has a mechanical linkage its electronically controlled. Disconnecting the TCM and only reconnecting it after starting with gear lever in park and gearlinkage in D would have triggered a fault code and would cause a no drive condition. The TCM needs to see the lever in Park and the linkage in Park ( or N) before it will allow normal shifting
The following users liked this post:
lecha (11-10-2017)
11-25-2018, 03:43 PM
#15
Junior Member
Can someone tell me the location of the TCM? Is it under the dash or mounted in/on the transmission.
I am having the same type of issue, the car will not start or turn the starter over while the shift lever is any position.
I have the 2002 C320 wagon. The display is not indicating the shifter position either. The display does not change when I move the lever, the lights on the shifter cover do.
Thanks,
I am having the same type of issue, the car will not start or turn the starter over while the shift lever is any position.
I have the 2002 C320 wagon. The display is not indicating the shifter position either. The display does not change when I move the lever, the lights on the shifter cover do.
Thanks,
11-26-2018, 05:01 AM
#16
Senior Member
Can someone tell me the location of the TCM? Is it under the dash or mounted in/on the transmission.
I am having the same type of issue, the car will not start or turn the starter over while the shift lever is any position.
I have the 2002 C320 wagon. The display is not indicating the shifter position either. The display does not change when I move the lever, the lights on the shifter cover do.
Thanks,
I am having the same type of issue, the car will not start or turn the starter over while the shift lever is any position.
I have the 2002 C320 wagon. The display is not indicating the shifter position either. The display does not change when I move the lever, the lights on the shifter cover do.
Thanks,
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7610842
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