Just received my Blackstone oil Analysis
#1
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2018 E300 4Matic
Just received my Blackstone oil Analysis
Here's my second Blackstone analysis. I'm at 27 000kms at this time.
Oil used was M1 0W40 for about 5200km/120h. The oil was changed sooner than recommended because I did a lot of idling this summer + 1 trip to Cape Cod + many days over 100F
Seems like my 2010 C300 RWD love this oil, as the report is very nice
Just wanted to post it out.
Have a nice day!
Oil used was M1 0W40 for about 5200km/120h. The oil was changed sooner than recommended because I did a lot of idling this summer + 1 trip to Cape Cod + many days over 100F
Seems like my 2010 C300 RWD love this oil, as the report is very nice
Just wanted to post it out.
Have a nice day!
#3
Super Moderator
Excellent report. You can see that the oil has not done it's full mileage. Additive concentrations are still high & no contaminants.
One very happy engine.
One very happy engine.
#4
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C300 4MATIC (w204)
Here's my second Blackstone analysis. I'm at 27 000kms at this time.
Oil used was M1 0W40 for about 5200km/120h. The oil was changed sooner than recommended because I did a lot of idling this summer + 1 trip to Cape Cod + many days over 100F
Seems like my 2010 C300 RWD love this oil, as the report is very nice
Just wanted to post it out.
Have a nice day!
Oil used was M1 0W40 for about 5200km/120h. The oil was changed sooner than recommended because I did a lot of idling this summer + 1 trip to Cape Cod + many days over 100F
Seems like my 2010 C300 RWD love this oil, as the report is very nice
Just wanted to post it out.
Have a nice day!
#5
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2018 E300 4Matic
Yes I'm pretty happy with the M1 Don't know if Motul, Amsoil or GC would offer a better protection for my engine...but M1 seems to do well!
The test is 25$ (add 10$ if you want the TBN)
I think it's a good thing to do at least once every year
The test is 25$ (add 10$ if you want the TBN)
I think it's a good thing to do at least once every year
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C300 Sport/Palladium Silver on Black/P2
Sadly, buying the pump is the most expensive part.
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C300 Sport/Palladium Silver on Black/P2
What's TBN and do you do it?
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C300 Sport/Palladium Silver on Black/P2
#12
#13
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Glyn, think I should order one of these reports with my 5w40 ESP oil in my gasoline C300 with 7000 miles on the clock (since oil change, 30,000 miles overall, 17000 of which on this wrong oil)? Might be interesting to see how this "incorrect" oil is doing, or a waste of money?
Sadly, buying the pump is the most expensive part.
Sadly, buying the pump is the most expensive part.
One oil sample really means nothing - you need a trend over time & multiple samples. The good sample above certainly says the engine is happy & being operated well.
#14
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Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?
For others
TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Running-in and too much time at cold temperatures/not warmed up.
Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?
For others
TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.
Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?
For others
TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.
That sample does not look like M1 0W-40, you are right Glyn, moly is really low. If that was the factory fill, it is not M1 0W-40 as most assume it is. It is a 5w-30 made by Shell.
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Yeah, if that was oil that came in the car it was NOT Mobil 1.
It was the break in oil they put in factory. 5w30 Shell Synthetic as stated.
It was the break in oil they put in factory. 5w30 Shell Synthetic as stated.
#18
Super Moderator
That makes sense. I know where Mobil source their additive from so I know that package well. It did not look at all like Mobil 1
Crap - for a moment I thought that they had launched a new formulation & that it was not performing very well - run-in or no run-in - Those iron et al levels are the high side of normal break in.
Crap - for a moment I thought that they had launched a new formulation & that it was not performing very well - run-in or no run-in - Those iron et al levels are the high side of normal break in.
#19
Running-in and too much time at cold temperatures/not warmed up.
Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?
For others
TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.
Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?
For others
TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.
Anyways, here's my second Blackstone report.
#20
Super Moderator
Your 1st sample was not Mobil 1 - see Moly at 11ppm - impossible. Benz use MOS2 coated rings that can in fact cause Moly levels to rise marginally during run-in on top of the Mobil 1 73ppm baseline.
Wear in this engine is still running on the high side - some engines are slower to settle but by 15,000 she should have stabalised. I see you are now in the US with warmer climes.
Best way to warm an engine quickly is by driving it immediately but not making full demands on it until it has reached full operating temperature.
The only exeption to this is starting at very low ambients where you should get the chill of the engine & achieve stable running before driving. Trouble is that FI cars run so darn well cold.
Don't worry about the slight viscosity drop. It's due to VI Improver shear which is normal for M1 & in your case slight fuel dilution. This is usually due to too many short trips & not running fully warmed up to evapourate off the fuel.
It's for you to decide on whether you are driving the car very hard & accelerating wear. I can't comment on this.
Wear in this engine is still running on the high side - some engines are slower to settle but by 15,000 she should have stabalised. I see you are now in the US with warmer climes.
Best way to warm an engine quickly is by driving it immediately but not making full demands on it until it has reached full operating temperature.
The only exeption to this is starting at very low ambients where you should get the chill of the engine & achieve stable running before driving. Trouble is that FI cars run so darn well cold.
Don't worry about the slight viscosity drop. It's due to VI Improver shear which is normal for M1 & in your case slight fuel dilution. This is usually due to too many short trips & not running fully warmed up to evapourate off the fuel.
It's for you to decide on whether you are driving the car very hard & accelerating wear. I can't comment on this.