Rubi1999

Here's my second Blackstone analysis. I'm at 27 000kms at this time.
Oil used was M1 0W40 for about 5200km/120h. The oil was changed sooner than recommended because I did a lot of idling this summer + 1 trip to Cape Cod + many days over 100F

Seems like my 2010 C300 RWD love this oil, as the report is very nice

Just wanted to post it out.

Have a nice day!

Samieee

How do you read the report? Higher number is better? Or lower?

Glyn M Ruck

Excellent report. You can see that the oil has not done it's full mileage. Additive concentrations are still high & no contaminants.

One very happy engine.

TheDarkSide

Great News! Hey, would you mind telling us how much you paid for the oil analysis? Thanks!

Rubi1999

Yes I'm pretty happy with the M1 Don't know if Motul, Amsoil or GC would offer a better protection for my engine...but M1 seems to do well!

The test is 25$ (add 10$ if you want the TBN)

I think it's a good thing to do at least once every year

mac911

Glyn, think I should order one of these reports with my 5w40 ESP oil in my gasoline C300 with 7000 miles on the clock (since oil change, 30,000 miles overall, 17000 of which on this wrong oil)? Might be interesting to see how this "incorrect" oil is doing, or a waste of money?

Sadly, buying the pump is the most expensive part.

mac911

What's TBN and do you do it?

Peabody

Here's my sample, I'm almost due to change again, I think it's really good considering about half the mileage on it was spent over 100 MPH.

mac911

Wow. Why do you get to drive so fast?

Finally, when that analysis was done what was the total car miles?

johnand

How many total miles on that engine? Hopefully it is very low mileage and still breaking in. Those iron numbers are getting up there.

Peabody

That was for the first 8,400 miles.

Peabody

Because I only drove 1.2 miles to work, and the rest of the mileage was on the autobahn.

Glyn M Ruck

At 7000 miles it will probably look OK. Run it to 10,000 & then check if you want to.

One oil sample really means nothing - you need a trend over time & multiple samples. The good sample above certainly says the engine is happy & being operated well.

Glyn M Ruck

Running-in and too much time at cold temperatures/not warmed up.

Is that really a Mobil 1 sample???? Why is the moly high temp anti oxidant level so low? Have they reformulated in Europe?

For others

TBN = reserve alkalinity in the oil to offset acidic combustion by-products mainly as a result of sulphur in the fuel. European gasoline has the lowest sulphur levels in the world so TBN is not really an issue.

johnand

He said 1st 8400 miles, so that makes me feel better, as that is break-in wear. My iron wasn't quite that high, but I only ran 5800 miles on the initial factory fill.

That sample does not look like M1 0W-40, you are right Glyn, moly is really low. If that was the factory fill, it is not M1 0W-40 as most assume it is. It is a 5w-30 made by Shell.

johnand

Here is a M1 0W-40 VOA:



Moly is 73ppm.

mac911

Yeah, if that was oil that came in the car it was NOT Mobil 1.

It was the break in oil they put in factory. 5w30 Shell Synthetic as stated.

Glyn M Ruck

That makes sense. I know where Mobil source their additive from so I know that package well. It did not look at all like Mobil 1

Crap - for a moment I thought that they had launched a new formulation & that it was not performing very well - run-in or no run-in - Those iron et al levels are the high side of normal break in.

Peabody

Yes that's really a Mobil 1 sample, and I've never ran the engine cold. I always start it and wait for it to reach operational temp. Normally it's about as long as it takes to read my memory card and connect my phone via bluetooth. Does it really take your engine any significant length of time to warm up?

Anyways, here's my second Blackstone report.

Glyn M Ruck

Your 1st sample was not Mobil 1 - see Moly at 11ppm - impossible. Benz use MOS2 coated rings that can in fact cause Moly levels to rise marginally during run-in on top of the Mobil 1 73ppm baseline.

Wear in this engine is still running on the high side - some engines are slower to settle but by 15,000 she should have stabalised. I see you are now in the US with warmer climes.

Best way to warm an engine quickly is by driving it immediately but not making full demands on it until it has reached full operating temperature.

The only exeption to this is starting at very low ambients where you should get the chill of the engine & achieve stable running before driving. Trouble is that FI cars run so darn well cold.

Don't worry about the slight viscosity drop. It's due to VI Improver shear which is normal for M1 & in your case slight fuel dilution. This is usually due to too many short trips & not running fully warmed up to evapourate off the fuel.

It's for you to decide on whether you are driving the car very hard & accelerating wear. I can't comment on this.

Peabody

Well, I can't confirm that the first sample was Mobil 1.. it was the factory fill at Sindelfingen.

Glyn M Ruck

Yep! - The Shell running in product.