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ABS ESP ESC Inoperative, Power Steering Malfunction 2010 MercedesBenz C300 Sport W204
My 2010 Mercedes Benz C300 Sport W204 has had this message that pops up on the dash for a while. It’ll say ABS ESP ESC Inoperative followed by the Power Steering Malfunction. The message will pop up around after I hit 12 mph and cruise control does not work. The reason why I haven’t gone around to fix it is because at some point, it went away in the summer. Then came back after it rained in the fall and has continued to come on since. Now I’ve read multiple forums about the ABS Module, the SAM, or the wheel speed sensors but I’m not sure where to start because the message has been bugging me. I should also mention that the car feels normal and runs normal. It steers well but the one thing I’m worried about is the fact that when I hard brake, the wheels do indeed lock up with no ABS pulsing. Oh and another thing that might help, I’ve notice that when it rains or I have washed the car (the temperature has been colder btw), the brake light will stay on without me pressing the brake. It will go away after a couple of hours of not driving it but yea. Lots of weird things. I went to OReilys to get it scanned but I don’t think their scanner could tell me if it’s speed sensors or not but they read codes 5001 - Internal Fault in Component N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit), 6000 - The supply voltage of Control Unit N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit) is too low (undervoltage), 7266 - Consequential Fault, and 5945 - There is an internal fault in component N30/4 ( Electronic Stability Program Control Unit). Does anybody have any advice or suggestions? I was thinking of getting my own MB scanner so I could get better readings of the codes. Thanks.
You have the ‘Ring of Four” warnings. All of those systems are interrelated.
The common culprit is a bad wheel speed sensor, cracked reluctor ring, or wiring problem to one of the wheel speed sensors. But you have ESC control unit faults that look valid. The low voltage could trigger the other two. Getting your own dedicated MB scanner would verify the parts store scan. The low voltage needs to be verified with a voltmeter. The ESC control unit can go bad, but it’s not all that common.
@TimC300 has a very similar car, so if he pops in, listen to his advice.
You should get a Mercedes specific scanner. Launch makes one that's like 150$. With that we should be able to help you figure out which wheel or wheels have bad wheel speed signal.
My 2010 Mercedes Benz C300 Sport W204 has had this message that pops up on the dash for a while. It’ll say ABS ESP ESC Inoperative followed by the Power Steering Malfunction. The message will pop up around after I hit 12 mph and cruise control does not work. The reason why I haven’t gone around to fix it is because at some point, it went away in the summer. Then came back after it rained in the fall and has continued to come on since. Now I’ve read multiple forums about the ABS Module, the SAM, or the wheel speed sensors but I’m not sure where to start because the message has been bugging me. I should also mention that the car feels normal and runs normal. It steers well but the one thing I’m worried about is the fact that when I hard brake, the wheels do indeed lock up with no ABS pulsing. Oh and another thing that might help, I’ve notice that when it rains or I have washed the car (the temperature has been colder btw), the brake light will stay on without me pressing the brake. It will go away after a couple of hours of not driving it but yea. Lots of weird things. I went to OReilys to get it scanned but I don’t think their scanner could tell me if it’s speed sensors or not but they read codes 5001 - Internal Fault in Component N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit), 6000 - The supply voltage of Control Unit N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit) is too low (undervoltage), 7266 - Consequential Fault, and 5945 - There is an internal fault in component N30/4 ( Electronic Stability Program Control Unit). Does anybody have any advice or suggestions? I was thinking of getting my own MB scanner so I could get better readings of the codes. Thanks.
you are onto something with your acquisition of a good scanner. You need yo.be able to read live data, not only stored faults.
Then fixing should not involve replacing any good parts... pay attention to status: stored or active ?
When you get one your going to want to go to a screen that shows the wheel speed sensors live data.
With that you should be able to see what wheel is acting up.
It's always possible that ice is nothing the sensors if your in a state that got snow recently.
I had the same problem with my 2010 C300, but my steering wheel became extremely heavy when I went over 23 km/h. The solution was to replace the battery (I'm using a 95Ah, 800 CCA battery, not AGM) and clear the error codes; after that, the car started working again. Check the alternator voltage through the secret menu. The alternator itself might also be faulty.
The scanner came in today and I was able to get the data of the wheel speed sensors. Is it safe to say that these are the problem? I notice that the left side seems to be off a bit and then smooths out at some points. I attached a video, let me know what you guys think. I was trying to attach a long vid but the website said it was too large.
The scanner came in today and I was able to get the data of the wheel speed sensors. Is it safe to say that these are the problem? I notice that the left side seems to be off a bit and then smooths out at some points. I attached a video, let me know what you guys think. I was trying to attach a long vid but the website said it was too large.
The scanner came in today and I was able to get the data of the wheel speed sensors. Is it safe to say that these are the problem? I notice that the left side seems to be off a bit and then smooths out at some points. I attached a video, let me know what you guys think. I was trying to attach a long vid but the website said it was too large.
It seems normal. Do the following: enter the secret menu and check the voltage before and after starting the car. One of the problems your car is experiencing is related to low voltage.
Alright secret menu now. Shows voltage of 11.9 with just key in, and 13.6 with the car on. I’ve had this battery for about 2 years now, any feedback on the battery? I’ve heard that a good battery should sit around 12.6v off, and about 14v on. Let me know, thanks. Also attached some photos.
Launch Elite 2.0. I got quite a few DTCs actually but I’m pretty sure some of them are unrelated but I did attach the ones I’m worried about. Maybe that circuit 54? Let me know what you guys think
Ok, menu secreto agora. Mostra uma voltagem de 11,9 com a chave na ignição e 13,6 com o carro ligado. Tenho essa bateria há uns 2 anos, algum feedback sobre ela? Ouvi dizer que uma bateria boa deve ficar em torno de 12,6V desligada e 14V ligada. Me avisem, obrigado. Também anexei algumas fotos.
The errors that often occur are due to low voltage, and since this information is only stored and not active, it makes perfect sense. How did you get this information to appear on the radio display?
I had the abs warning pop up. Happened maybe twice since owning the car for 5yrs. Long story short it went away on its own and I havent done anything to "fix" it yet.
1st time I was actually on my way to get my cars yearly inspection when it came on. I turned around and got my scan tool and erased the code. The warning came on again while driving so pulled over and erased the code again. It finally stayed off so I immediately got my car inspected.
Then it started coming on again this past September. I stopped to get gas then the warning popped up. It kept coming on after starting the car and reaching around 15mph. This went on for 5-7 days maybe then just went away.
I was not too concerned because the car drove exactly the same, no loss of power steering. If the car did drive differently then I would have been more concerned. if the warning kept popping up i was looking in to two options:
1- Buying a used module and trying to reprogram it to my car using a Launch obd scanner. I currently have a Foxwell scanner and while it does alot it only lets me read the module and not make any changes. I have read that launch scanners have more capabilities.
2- Sending my module out to a repair shop that specializes in these things.
I had the abs warning pop up. Happened maybe twice since owning the car for 5yrs. Long story short it went away on its own and I havent done anything to "fix" it yet.
1st time I was actually on my way to get my cars yearly inspection when it came on. I turned around and got my scan tool and erased the code. The warning came on again while driving so pulled over and erased the code again. It finally stayed off so I immediately got my car inspected.
Then it started coming on again this past September. I stopped to get gas then the warning popped up. It kept coming on after starting the car and reaching around 15mph. This went on for 5-7 days maybe then just went away.
I was not too concerned because the car drove exactly the same, no loss of power steering. If the car did drive differently then I would have been more concerned. if the warning kept popping up i was looking in to two options:
1- Buying a used module and trying to reprogram it to my car using a Launch obd scanner. I currently have a Foxwell scanner and while it does alot it only lets me read the module and not make any changes. I have read that launch scanners have more capabilities.
2- Sending my module out to a repair shop that specializes in these things.
this seems like a super-combo of multiple modules ganging up:
steering + ESP/ABS.
Wheel speed sensors seemed to be reading ok. I was only checking there operation to rule them out.
The only fault code was the 5001 for internal fault of N30/4.
When I was seeing the warning coming on this last time I was thinking the fault code was telling me what was wrong, there is an "internal fault" in the module. Something wrong with the software or circuit board. Damaged circuit boards are a bit out of my comfort zone for working with.
I found a few places to send the module out for repair when looking thru the W221 threads. A few people had good luck sending them out for repair. I forget the names and would have to go look again.
It’s been a while and I just wanted to update the thread since I had forgot about it.
So yes, I followed the advice and cleared the codes. The ABS message did not pop up for one day and then the next day it came back.
I was gonna take my battery to get replaced under warranty, (turns out it didn’t have one), and when I installed the same battery back, the message disappeared! And this time it has not came back since then. LOL. So hopefully it stays like this because I was honestly sick of those stupid dings and messages popping up on the cluster.
I’m guessing the battery needs replacing, and probably soon. I live in a city in Texas where the temperature fluctuates in the winter, and we have really hot summers and I read that temperature kills batteries.
Check your batteries !!!
For those that don’t know, you can access that secret menu by holding down the red hang up button, the # button, and the 1 button at the same time for around 5 or so seconds. (This is for the preface lift w204)
thanks for sharing your knowledge and advice with me guys!
When I bought it at the MB dealer i made the mistake of not looking at the manufacture date until I was already home, turns out it was already 15 months old and I think it wasnt in the best condition. learned my lesson. This time I bought an H7 AGM battery at Walmart. The battery is great so far.
I have an inexpensive battery tester and im impressed with how it works. When I first got it I wasnt sure how accurate it was since I had nothing to compare it to but then testing the clearly bad battery and then the brand new battery the results seem pretty spot on.
it is well accepted that extreme heat kills lead-acid batteries. Liquid electrolyte evaporates its water... AGM batteries are sealed so they suffer less until they are forced to vent out.
Variable alternator voltage does not always operate well. It can sizzle batteries with 1300.Watts (14.9V, 90A) without any DTC.
Use the Dasboard Display: "Shop menu" (aka. "secret menu") to visualize live voltage from 12.6 to 14.9V= ok!
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ABS ESP ESC Inoperative, Power Steering Malfunction 2010 MercedesBenz C300 Sport W204
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