fuel door won't unlock?

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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #1  
I just stopped for gas and my fuel door wouldn't unlock. Anyone had this experience?
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2014 | 07:19 PM
  #2  
Do you have all the doors unlocked?
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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #3  
yes I did. I also tried locking it and unlocking it from the outside and that didn't work either
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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:23 PM
  #4  
And you removed the smart key from the ignition?
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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #5  
I have Keyless go.
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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #6  
Hate to ask stupid questions, but you are pressing on the left side of the flap?


Just checked the manual and it says causes are (1) Smart Key battery discharged (2) unlock the vehicle using the mechanical key
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #7  
Tried both sides. This is the first time i pumped it myself because i live in nj and the whole state is full service. The last time i got gas, i had to unlock it from inside.
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #8  
This is why I always fill up at 1/2 tank. You never know when something goes haywire. Yes, I fill up twice as often...but it also costs half the price
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Nov 30, 2014 | 07:50 PM
  #9  
I'm at half a tank. I hope this resolves itself
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #10  
Quote: I'm at half a tank. I hope this resolves itself
I know some vehicles (not sure about the MBZ C Class) have an emergency fuel door release in the trunk...just where the filler would be on the outside. Sometimes it is covered by carpet or fabric.
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2014 | 11:44 PM
  #11  
I fixed it. Good thing too because my "low fuel" warning message came on and I don't have enough to get all the way to work tomorrow.
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Nov 30, 2014 | 11:45 PM
  #12  
Quote: I fixed it. Good thing too because my "low fuel" warning message came on and I don't have enough to get all the way to work tomorrow.
In case it happens to one of us, what was the solution?


Thanks
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 12:12 AM
  #13  
I had to hit the door on the left side with a closed fist honestly. (People looked at me kinda funny after I basically punched my car). It popped open and made an unusual clicking noise like something was out of place. I closed it and opened it again and it was fine. No noise. Maybe there was something in the way? I have no idea. Basically it wasn't locked. Just stuck.
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #14  
Do you live in a cold climate where ice may have gotten into it? In areas where there's ice and snow, that's not an uncommon problem ... if not, I haven't got a clue what happened.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #15  
I do. The temperature had gone above freezing for a few days, but I'm guessing it was probably ice also.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #16  
Quote: I do. The temperature had gone above freezing for a few days, but I'm guessing it was probably ice also.
On my car, and other W205's I've seen, there is quite a bit of space between the fuel filler door and the body panel ... not a tight fit at all. I'm guessing this may be an ongoing winter problem with the fuel door.
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 09:26 AM
  #17  
Great. I live in northern NJ. This should be fun. Ice got into the door handle of my old car and broke it last winter. My emblem also froze and snapped off when I was scraping snow off of it one day. This winter is supposedly going to be just as bad. We already had our first snow storm.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 09:33 AM
  #18  
Quote: Great. I live in northern NJ. This should be fun. Ice got into the door handle of my old car and broke it last winter. My emblem also froze and snapped off when I was scraping snow off of it one day. This winter is supposedly going to be just as bad. We already had our first snow storm.
I haven't done this yet, but I may get some low temperature silicone grease and smear some around the inside edges of the fuel door opening. That may help in keeping the ice from sticking to the metal.

I'll wait and see if it turns out to be an issue. Your experience may have just been a fluke and never happen again. Let's hope ...
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 11:08 AM
  #19  
Quote: I haven't done this yet, but I may get some low temperature silicone grease and smear some around the inside edges of the fuel door opening. That may help in keeping the ice from sticking to the metal.

I'll wait and see if it turns out to be an issue. Your experience may have just been a fluke and never happen again. Let's hope ...
Lithium lube (AKA white grease) works best and is less messy. Silicone lube works too but it tends to smear tenaciously on painted surfaces. Both are available in spray (WD 40) but the grease works best. Living in MN and WI these things are routine. Particularly after the car wash!

BTW, next time, don't punch it just bang it firmly and repeatedly with your closed hand (aka punch it like a girl) to try to avoid breaking it
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #20  
I owned a couple of SL's that had such a chronic stuck vacuum actuator problem that I opened the gas flap from the trunk almost as often as I did from the outside of the car. I like Stan's proactive silicone tip.
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 04:57 PM
  #21  
Quote: Lithium lube (AKA white grease) works best and is less messy. Silicone lube works too but it tends to smear tenaciously on painted surfaces. Both are available in spray (WD 40) but the grease works best. Living in MN and WI these things are routine. Particularly after the car wash!

BTW, next time, don't punch it just bang it firmly and repeatedly with your closed hand (aka punch it like a girl) to try to avoid breaking it
I am a girl and that's exactly what I did.
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #22  
Quote: I am a girl and that's exactly what I did.
Good for you!!



Goes to show, nobody should ***-u-me. And, glad you fixed your fuel door too!
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2014 | 05:23 PM
  #23  
Quote: Good for you!!



Goes to show, nobody should ***-u-me. And, glad you fixed your fuel door!
Common occurrence on the internet, especially on a car forum. Can't say I blame anyone for assuming.
Reply 0
Dec 2, 2014 | 11:38 AM
  #24  
Quote: Lithium lube (AKA white grease)
Please explain? I'm an oil industry person. Lithium soap thickened greases are the most common vanilla variety on the market & cover a million formulations.

The family of products sold as "white grease" cover a million sins & usually mean titanium dioxide has been added. Same as toothpaste.

If you must use grease then you need a specific grease formulated with synthetic base oil to operate at low temp usually effective down to about minus 30 deg C unless of aircraft grade.

Silicon & teflon sprays will work dependent on carrier.

The best things to use are those that are similar to aircraft de-icing fluids & contain propylene glycol or ethylene glycol. Some are available with a polymeric thickener so that they adhere for longer.
Reply 0
Dec 2, 2014 | 01:26 PM
  #25  
Quote: Please explain? I'm an oil industry person. Lithium soap thickened greases are the most common vanilla variety on the market & cover a million formulations.

The family of products sold as "white grease" cover a million sins & usually mean titanium dioxide has been added. Same as toothpaste.

If you must use grease then you need a specific grease formulated with synthetic base oil to operate at low temp usually effective down to about minus 30 deg C unless of aircraft grade.

Silicon & teflon sprays will work dependent on carrier.

The best things to use are those that are similar to aircraft de-icing fluids & contain propylene glycol or ethylene glycol. Some are available with a polymeric thickener so that they adhere for longer.

For the less versed in aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbon lubricants..... like ourselves and the guys in our local parts store, the lithium variety tends to be white in these parts Lithium grease is liked simply because it doesn't harden in cold temperatures. And yes it has titanium dioxide as a dye.


http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-grease-detail
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