C218 CLS63, 2011 - 2019

2013 cls63

Old Sep 21, 2020 | 02:07 PM
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2013 cls63

Hi Guys,

I am a long time M156 owner and about to upgrade to a CLS63. Found a 2013 locally. Is there any known issue and tips when looking for an used one? Thank you so much!

Last edited by dustinN; Oct 30, 2020 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 03:14 PM
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Good luck, please post a photo when it arrives. You know about head bolts and cams, right? The rest is CLS-related, which can be found using the search button and reading the CLS section. Mainly electrical would be the things to watch out for, my guess. I would replace the main and aux batteries right away, based on principle. Check for leaks and water infiltration in the trunk around the taillamps.

Steering, suspension, brakes and cooling are generally OK across most models.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Good luck, please post a photo when it arrives. You know about head bolts and cams, right? The rest is CLS-related, which can be found using the search button and reading the CLS section. Mainly electrical would be the things to watch out for, my guess. I would replace the main and aux batteries right away, based on principle. Check for leaks and water infiltration in the trunk around the taillamps.

Steering, suspension, brakes and cooling are generally OK across most models.
Great, thank you.
M157 2013 model still has the head bold and cams issue? I thought that problem only for M156 from 2007 to early 2012.

Last edited by dustinN; Sep 21, 2020 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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Hi and Good Luck!

Hi you might want to check this out. We share lots/most of our components with the W212. You can also browse their forums, it’s a lot more active than the w218 forum.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-w212-amg.html

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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by _KO_
Hi you might want to check this out. We share lots/most of our components with the W212. You can also browse their forums, it’s a lot more active than the w218 forum.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-w212-amg.html
Heres another

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...63-4matic.html
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 10:43 PM
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The one I've checked out today has ceramic brakes. The car is 7yo, 24k miles, and in excellent condition. Someone told me that When it's time to replace the rotor and pads for CC brake, it will be a nightmare. Anyone has CC brakes? My 07 E63, 100k, and still has its original rotors. As far as I know, CC will last longer than this. Any inputs guys? Thanks.

Can we replace CC with steel rotors?

Last edited by dustinN; Sep 21, 2020 at 10:45 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 01:25 PM
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CCB’s should last up to 100k miles, so unless you’re planning to push that car to six figure miles I wouldn’t worry about it. At the same time, if you’re not going to track the car then the CCB’s are overkill (and are also very noisey”
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 02:22 PM
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After some readings, I understand the pros and cons of CCB's. If they come with car (slightly used) without any different in price, would you take it?
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
After some readings, I understand the pros and cons of CCB's. If they come with car (slightly used) without any different in price, would you take it?
If I knew the history of car (ie the car wasn’t heavily tracked) or i was able to get the rotors weighed and they still have tons of life then I would go for it.

The only reason I would want them is for the reduced brake dust lol. Brake dust is a **** on these cars. The extra Performance benefits are nice but the regular brakes are still performance brakes (Im not one to hit the track). But with everything there are risks...rock chips, have to be careful changing tires, etc
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Good luck, please post a photo when it arrives. You know about head bolts and cams, right? The rest is CLS-related, which can be found using the search button and reading the CLS section. Mainly electrical would be the things to watch out for, my guess. I would replace the main and aux batteries right away, based on principle. Check for leaks and water infiltration in the trunk around the taillamps.

Steering, suspension, brakes and cooling are generally OK across most models.
Just picked her up this afternoon.

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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by _KO_
If I knew the history of car (ie the car wasn’t heavily tracked) or i was able to get the rotors weighed and they still have tons of life then I would go for it.

The only reason I would want them is for the reduced brake dust lol. Brake dust is a **** on these cars. The extra Performance benefits are nice but the regular brakes are still performance brakes (Im not one to hit the track). But with everything there are risks...rock chips, have to be careful changing tires, etc
I’ve tracked my car on steels and they were fine. Also, Carbotech pads although pricey have next to no visible dust and are pretty damn awesome.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:12 AM
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I need to do a couple simple mods to custom the car to my taste.

First one is resonator delete. Do you have any suggestion for straight vs x-pipe?
Second: Lower the ride with H&R coil springs? Is this some kind of DIYs or dealer's job?

Seems like not many W218 owners add the rear diffusion or front lip spoiler to your car?

Last edited by dustinN; Oct 30, 2020 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
I need to do a couple simple mods to custom the car to taste.

First one is resonator delete. Do you have any suggestion for straight vs x-pipe?
Second: Lower the ride with H&R coil springs? Is this some kind of DIYs or dealer's job?

Seems like not many W218 owners add the rear diffusion or front lip spoiler to your car?
congrats on the new ride!!!

i did the res delete on mine W218. just went with straight pipe as i read that, with turbos, there was no benefit of the x-pipe. also, i lowered mine on H&R's, as well. for me, the drop is perfect (i also used spacers in the rear) so i saw no need for the extra expense of coilovers. and yeah...i'm pretty handy around a car but springs were a bit outside of my skill level. the links in the back (air suspension so there are no springs in the back, in case you werent familiar), however, i could have done.

lastly, i added a rear diffuser but its just a CF version of the one that came with the car. the RT-style rear was a bit too boy-racer for me and obstructed the view of the exhaust tips when looking at the car from the side.



Here’s a pic of the drop on the H&R/links combo.

Last edited by 1MavRick; Sep 23, 2020 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MavRick
congrats on the new ride!!!

i did the res delete on mine W218. just went with straight pipe as i read that, with turbos, there was no benefit of the x-pipe. also, i lowered mine on H&R's, as well. for me, the drop is perfect (i also used spacers in the rear) so i saw no need for the extra expense of coilovers. and yeah...i'm pretty handy around a car but springs were a bit outside of my skill level. the links in the back (air suspension so there are no springs in the back, in case you werent familiar), however, i could have done.

lastly, i added a rear diffuser but its just a CF version of the one that came with the car. the RT-style rear was a bit too boy-racer for me and obstructed the view of the exhaust tips when looking at the car from the side.
That's exactly what I want to do for my car. I will let the pro replace the H&R coil springs. I the rear, will buy the link from ebay and I can do it myself. Yes, your drop looks perfect. I agreed with you on the rear diffuser. I want it a bit more aggressive but nothing like boy-racer. I think when you lower the ride, the car looks more aggressive already.

I had resonator deleted with straight pipes on my E63, I am going to do the same for the CLS. Thanks.

Last edited by dustinN; Oct 30, 2020 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
That's exactly what I want to do for my car. I will let the pro replace the H&R coil springs. I the rear, will by the link from ebay and I can do it myself. I agreed with you on the rear diffuser. I want it a bit more aggressive but nothing like boy-racer. I think when you lower the ride, the car looks more aggressive already. Thanks.
no problem, man. also...here is some sound of when i did the res delete, if you havent heard the difference....

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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 09:50 PM
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Yup, a whole lot better! Was it costly to put on the CF diffuser?
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:21 PM
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https://www.tunershop.com/shop/h-r-s...cls63-amg.html

Found this one for $100 cheaper than on Amazon
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
https://www.tunershop.com/shop/h-r-s...cls63-amg.html

Found this one for $100 cheaper than on Amazon
Not sure if those will work since these are for the CLS wagon.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Anotherone
Not sure if those will work since these are for the CLS wagon.
Do you have the correct part number? Thanks.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 01:46 PM
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What I understand is we need only 2 in the front. In the rear, we will need adjustable links. Correct? The description says 4 coil springs.

==> never mind, verified with sale rep that part includes only 2 front coilsprings.

Last edited by dustinN; Sep 24, 2020 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:28 PM
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How do I select the RS? I can select C,S,S+, and M but I cannot select RS. Does it mean my car does not have this option? Thanks.
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
How do I select the RS? I can select C,S,S+, and M but I cannot select RS. Does it mean my car does not have this option? Thanks.
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinN
How do I select the RS? I can select C,S,S+, and M but I cannot select RS. Does it mean my car does not have this option? Thanks.
Most common mistake people make is not having the cars traction control in "sport handling mode" so should be one press of the traction button. So the mid TC setting I guess, not fully on but not fully off.
Left foot hard on brake pedal.
Then you should be able to spin the C/S/S+ dial to RS/race start.
Then it'll say right paddle accept left to cancel or whatever so right paddle.
Then foot on gas, revs up, release brake, and off you get.

But again, you have to make sure traction control is in the right setting to even get the ball rolling. Sounds like a lot but once you know the process it's easy.
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:58 PM
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Sounds complicated. And it has to reach operate temperature too. Will try it one day. Thanks guys.
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 11:18 PM
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About a week too late, but here is the latest CCB discussion over at the W212 forum. https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...cost-life.html.
Congrats on the new ride... and, I am sure that you have noted by now that the brakes are NOT "noisy" as someone mentioned above. Enjoy the new ride!
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