Ultraman

My rotors are still OEM still 2003, but I replaced the front pads last year (around March, 2008). I still have lots of pads left (EBC - Red). Do I need to replace to a new set of pads if I intend to replace the rotors at the same time?

My rear pads replaced last month (akebono). My rear rotors are still the OEM.

03MBC32

I've always replaced the pads when I replace the rotors. If you want to reuse pads on new rotors, I would suggest you give the pad surfaces a light sanding to break up the wear pattern with the old rotors and assist breaking in with the new rotors.

Ultraman

Thanks for the tips

t1n0

I am going to do the rotor and pad swap soon. My rotors are beyond what any sane person would consider safe, but we're not sane are we? I think they may even be the originals, and my car has 100k miles.
Anyway, I put the OEM pads on last time, and I don't like them; they seem soft until the last bit of pressure, and then seem to clamp. Maybe they're are designed that way so as to allow the best modulation. And the dust, forgeddaboudit. My rims are dirty within a week, even with wax on them.
I see that most here like the Akebono ceramics ("...same materials, engineering, quality standards, and advanced technologies that create OE ceramic brake pads...") or the EBC redstuff ("...Kevlar fiber-based compound that is enhanced with ceramic particles..").
Previously in this thread it was asked about the Yellowstuff ("...aramid fiber-based brake compound ..") but there wasn't a reply.
Has anyone used the Yellow stuff?
I want pads that are linear grip with low dust. I'll sacrifice longevity for grip an low dust.

As far as rotors, I've seen the Pilenga rotors and Zimmerman listed online, and although the Zimms are pricier, someone stated that the Pilenga, which are OEM are painted. I know it doesn't affect performance one bit, but my rusted OEMs are ugly.
I kept searching, and found this place(part listing is for C32 AMG) :
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...7127725adbdb5a
These guys offer painted (black or silver) , slotted, xdrilled (or just dimpled) rotors; any thoughts on slotted rotors?

Quicktwinturbo

I'm using the yellow stuff at the moment.. It's lovely when its fully warmed up..

Since the weather is gett'n cold, it takes a lil longer to get them to warm up.
When it's cold, its not too bad but you could def tell the difference... And it also squeeks a lil when its cold..

t1n0

"Lovely" meaning linear grip, and grab when you want them too? I'm not being facetious, it's just you're the only person who commented on the yellows, and my only source for comparison.

How would you compare to redstuff or ceramics? How's the dust?
Would you buy them again?
Thanks in advance for your info.

MRAMG1

I ran the red stuff on my C32, and LOVED them. They never faded on the track, like the stockers would. They gripped wonderful cold or hot, and had very little dust.

I have heard of several people here using the yellows, which is a HIGHER heat rated pad. However if your wife or friends drive your car, and they are NOT use to it. This could get them into trouble when the pads are cold, aka they DO NOT grip as well until they get some heat into them.

Personally, I would stay with REDS for a street cat, IMHO.

Quicktwinturbo

Like MRAMG1 mentioned in his post,
Yellow grips very well and dust is very low compare to stock. Downside is when the pads are cold (not warmed up), it doesn't work too well. It's not like u press the pedal and get nothing but it's def weak when they are cold.

Would I buy it again? Yes.. Even though this may be a lil harsh on rotors and might be a little unsafe when they are cold, but its well worth it when they are fully warmed up.

I never tried red stuff on C55 but I only had good experienc when I had them on my Rx7.

Let me know if you have any more questions

MRAMG1

PS: If I wore the sole driver on my car, I would use the Yellows too

Darn wife

t1n0

Ok, I get the picture, The yellows have better grip and won't fade, but are actually soft until hot.
Thanks guys, appreciate it.
I am the sole driver, and I drive aggressive (when no else is on the road, of course) but I don't think I'll ever track my car, with the exception of one day finally going to a quarter mile event just to see what it's like. (I know, I know...never say never... )

I looked around some more, and Redstuff are described as ceramic. How do they compare vs the Akebono Ceramics ( grip and dust).

I also found an article that said ceramics in general have less dust and it's less noticeable due to a lack of metallic material. However, ceramics will wear rotors faster if the rotor was intended for semi-metallic pads.

Can you guys relate to my description of the OEM's? (the relatively long grip pedal stroke with a 'clamp' at the end, or could that just be a by-product of my thin rotors?
It does allow for smooth driving if you drive mellow, but I don't like the sudden grip at the end.

As far as rotors, I found this place that has a variety of rotors for our cars:
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...7127725adbdb5a

What do you think of rotors that are both xdrilled slotted? Too much? Just gonna shred my pads, or is it really better for wet weather? (as claimed)

I'm in South Florida, and although we escape cold weather, we do get a lot of rain. (from mid-spring to mid-fall, it's almost daily)
After all is said and done, my ultimate concern is getting as close as possible to dry performance in wet weather; the last thing I want to do is rear end someone or slide into a guardrail.
I change my front tires before they are worn and only use the PS2's, or this time around, the Goodyear F1's, so I was looking at the slotted rotors to maximize wet control.

Thoughts on slots?

I'm probably going to go with the Redstuff, unless you guys think Akebono makes a better ceramic.

Thanks guys, hope your having a great weekend.
T

dontbanme

Has anyone else done a similar swap?

dontbanme

Ouch! After looking at CLK63 brake prices I don't think it is worth it. OEM rotors $500+ piece. Does the swap require caliper mounting brackets as well?

e1000

Although there have been people who have had good luck with EBC pads (red and yellow) there have been numerous forum members across different MB models that have had awful experiences as well. I have used them and would personally not put them on anything, not on a bike, lawnmower, and certainly not on a car, much less a high performance car. Keep in mind the w203 C350 has the exact same front brake system as the C32/C55.

Akebono's are a good all around pad for street use, SUPER low dust. Initial bit is slightly less than stock, but they're very linear and overall have plenty of stopping power.

I'm not so sure cross-drilled or slotted brake rotors really give an advantage in the rain. You gotta remember your brakes clamp down with a LOT of force, and there is plenty of space for the water to go, not to mention a lot of heat is generated, further removing any water on the rotor.

https://mbworld.org/forums/new-s-cla...sy-brakes.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...otors-wtf.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...lable-c63.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...rakes-wtf.html

I could go on....

dontbanme

For those that are interested...Pilenga fronts are available for around $180 shipped!

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ake_rotor.html

Autotechnica

I've had EBC Reds on my SAAB 93 Aero which I've tracked many times. I have found that the main reason people have had problems with them was because of improper break-in. If you read the intructions, it clearly states that it requires 800-1000kms of normal braking (not dragging or overheating the pads) to properly bed them in. It was painful to drive like that for almost 1000kms, but after proper break-in the pads bite really hard. The SAAB had a dual piston 320mm front rotor, so they were beefy. If you feel like the pads aren't biting properly, it's definitely because the wear in surface hasn't fully broken-in yet. I had to brake hard in an emergency situation once while I only did 400km after the install of the new pads. I literally ended up in the middle of the intersection. During break-in period, I would recommend you take it very easy. Avoid doing highway driving till the pads are properly broken in. I don't like the long break-in period and it's not the safest either. When I had HAWK HPS/HP+ pads, they just recommend you do a few hard stops from 100, then 60. Pads broken in, you're good to go. If HAWKs were available I would always purchase HAWK. However, despite the problem with the break-in period, EBC pads are pretty good. I overheated my Bridgestone RE-01R's @ Shannonville long before my pads showed any signs of fade.

I have a set for the C32 now. Just going to install them when the weather gets better.

+1 for EBC reds.

Bry

JG26_Irish

Nice to see that these threads stay here. I was getting ready to re-do my brakes again and figurred I would do my homework 1st. Here was the same thread from last time with all the answers.

I am using Zimmerman cross drilled rotors again but with the Akebono pads this time. The EBC's worked great but figured I would try the others anyway.

The Zimmerman rotors are identical to OEM's

Irish

bekurt

I've had both their dimpled/slotted and slotted. I don't know about cross-drilled but I'm happy with the dimpled and slotted as they give the same benefits as cross-drilled without worrying about having drilled holes.