DIY: LET 185 mm pulley install with pics
Time: 1 hour 30 mins.
Here is the picture that floats around the forums of the pulleys and belt. #4, #8 and #1 are the ones you will be replacing.

I had to use a press to seat the bearing on my idler pulley. Luckily I am in the army and know tank mechanics so I had access to an eleventybillion ton press. It doesnt take more than 1 ton to seat the bearing. Use the press to push the bearing all the way into the pulley untill it is seated, then use the clip to secure it.
You can use a socket on the tensioner (#9) to release tension on the belt then slip the belt off of the tensioner. We removed the pulley as well but you can do it with the pulley still on. Once the belt is loose you will have room to work.
First we replaced the idler pulley (#4) Easy job, off with the old on with the new. 16mm socket, they dont take a lot of torque so you dont really need to crank down too hard on the bolt when installing.

Next we did the water pump pulley (#8), another easy one. Four 10mm bolts and replace. In this picture the crank pulley is already off and one of the bolts had fallen under the car so we went back for it later.

Now for the actual hard part, the crank pulley (#1). You will need a special tool to hold the old pulley in place, it has a ring and 3 studs on it. I bought one from a member of the forums. A 27mm, a short extension, and a long breaker bar, it took both my friend and I with some veins popping out of our foreheads to break the old crank bolt loose. Pull the old pulley straight off, replace with new pulley, there is a key that keeps it lined up.


Finding a way to torque down the bolt on the new pulley is difficult, I havent got a good torque on it yet. Jerry suggested securing the flywheel with something that would not be damaging to it, if anybody else has any thoughts im fair game. Other than that just slide the belt back in place and boogie down.
Last edited by Panzerknacker; Jun 20, 2009 at 06:43 PM. Reason: my E key fails
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...ete-550-a.html
third picture:
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...et-custom.html
"You will need to remove the front piece and the rear plastic piece to get to the torque converter to hold it in place to torque your new pulley on.
There are 2 small rubber plugs directly under the bell housing remove them, they pull out. I used an old prybar that you can wedge into the torque convertors flex plat to hold it in place while torquing the new bolt."
and one more thing guys, to everyone, make sure you use a BRAND NEW CRANK BOLT and DO NOT resuse your old one. they are one time use stretch bolts.
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.....Finding a way to torque down the bolt on the new pulley is difficult, I havent got a good torque on it yet. Jerry suggested securing the flywheel with something that would not be damaging to it, if anybody else has any thoughts im fair game. Other than that just slide the belt back in place and boogie down.
I'd be interested to know what the center bolt torque specification is for the LET overdrive pulley. Is it different to account for modification of the center bolt to fit the LET pulley (as described in posts above), or is it the same as the stock pulley?
If the same, the OE torque specifications can be found here.
[Edit: Exactly what are the differences between the OE center bolt and the center bolt included with the LET pulley? Depending on the extent of the differences, you cannot assume they require the same torque specs]
Last edited by boohooramblers; Jun 21, 2009 at 07:45 PM. Reason: need more information
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...-you-rock.html




