C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

glycol question

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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 09:13 PM
  #1  
c32kompressor's Avatar
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CLK55 AMG
glycol question

i read on all the other threads and tried doing everything i saw. looking to see if i have the valeo radiator, putting the car in w mode. but i get this jerk as everyone knows. but mine is a little different. when driving at any speed ill press the accelerator even the slightest bit the rpms raise as they should but it doesnt go anywhere till the rpms reach a 1000-2000 higher and the car will jerk like the clutch engages late. from a stop the car will jerk going into second gear. i have the c3p intake so i can hear the s/c whine really loud. when cruising and pressing the accelerator as stated above you can hear it whine then suddenly it get lower like i just shifted but the car hasnt.
havent gotten the car checked for gylcol yet but does this sound like it?
it has 83k miles and has been serviced on time
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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your condition is no different. you can see the videos i posted in my thread. my car does not have glycol and i have a behr radiator. quite a few '02's have this issue...
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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sounds like you have a little bit of a slipping tranny. You might want to get tested. and NO, its not normal.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TemjinX2
sounds like you have a little bit of a slipping tranny. You might want to get tested. and NO, its not normal.
you're completely wrong about this, it's the converter lock up clutch. i believe it's either a defect in the TCU or torque converter...
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dingleberry
you're completely wrong about this, it's the converter lock up clutch. i believe it's either a defect in the TCU or torque converter...
ok...since you been right about everything else right?

Last edited by TemjinX2; Mar 7, 2010 at 11:39 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TemjinX2
ok...since your right about everything else right?
you don't know what you're talking about. no need to be a jackass about it as well.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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To the op, i would just get the test first. Since its around $60-100 at the dealership before you start spending $400 on a new tcu and $800 on a new torque converter.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by c32kompressor
i read on all the other threads and tried doing everything i saw. looking to see if i have the valeo radiator, putting the car in w mode. but i get this jerk as everyone knows. but mine is a little different. when driving at any speed ill press the accelerator even the slightest bit the rpms raise as they should but it doesnt go anywhere till the rpms reach a 1000-2000 higher and the car will jerk like the clutch engages late. from a stop the car will jerk going into second gear. i have the c3p intake so i can hear the s/c whine really loud. when cruising and pressing the accelerator as stated above you can hear it whine then suddenly it get lower like i just shifted but the car hasnt.
havent gotten the car checked for gylcol yet but does this sound like it?
it has 83k miles and has been serviced on time
C32 kompressor, I have the same exact problem as you and you have described it perfectly. To add to what you said, how after you step on the gas partially, the rpm's climb to 2000 and then it jerks/slips and goes slow and feels like it is in a higher gear when you try to give it gas. You could also try driving normally at constant speed(30-40mph), then completely let off the throttle and let the car roll for a little and give it gas a third of the way. The car will act like the torque converter is loading, rpms will rise and you will get loud sound from the engine like the car is trying to downshift, then it slips and you get a violent jerk(slam). Another thing is if you keep your foot feathered on the gas pedal from a dead stop and let the rpms climb normally, it will jerk in middle of 2nd gear almost always. Please keep us updated on fixing your problem.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TemjinX2
To the op, i would just get the test first. Since its around $60-100 at the dealership before you start spending $400 on a new tcu and $800 on a new torque converter.
Agrred but find a honest dealer or an independent shop you know before you get it checked it out. Dealer may try to sell you a new tranny and then we wont know what really went wrong.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by moosejaw
Agrred but find a honest dealer or an independent shop you know before you get it checked it out. Dealer may try to sell you a new tranny and then we wont know what really went wrong.
sure we will. after they sell him a new tranny, the car will continue doing the jerks. so at that point we'll be able to rule out the tranny being the problem.

here's an interesting test... when the car is cold, the TCU plays a role in the open loop warm up cycle. it does not allow the converter to lockup in city driving to help heat the car up faster. what you should do is start the car stone cold and immediately take it for a drive. the first 3-4mins of driving are pure jerk-free bliss. that's because the tcu does not send the command to lockup the clutch during this time

Last edited by Dingleberry; Mar 8, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by c32kompressor
i read on all the other threads and tried doing everything i saw. looking to see if i have the valeo radiator, putting the car in w mode. but i get this jerk as everyone knows. but mine is a little different. when driving at any speed ill press the accelerator even the slightest bit the rpms raise as they should but it doesnt go anywhere till the rpms reach a 1000-2000 higher and the car will jerk like the clutch engages late. from a stop the car will jerk going into second gear. i have the c3p intake so i can hear the s/c whine really loud. when cruising and pressing the accelerator as stated above you can hear it whine then suddenly it get lower like i just shifted but the car hasnt.
havent gotten the car checked for gylcol yet but does this sound like it?
it has 83k miles and has been serviced on time
try doing that little experiment i talked about in my other post

does the jerking ever go away? mine goes away after about 15 mins of driving. after 15 mins, essentially it doesn't raise the rpm's without acceleration followed by the jerk.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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to Dingleberry. i have tried what you have stated above only to prove it false. i get the jerk right away. also even just cruising the car will not shift out of 1st till 3k rpms.
going to my dealer (i know the service consultant personaly) to possibly get the test done. again to dingleberry, the jerk will go away a little but ill always get that jerk going into 2nd no matter how hot or cold the engine may be
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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now if the dealer does try to f*** me over with a new tranny. should i take it or get it looked at somewhere else?
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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I have the same symptoms also with the new radiator and transmision flushed.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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i think the problem is in ECU/TCU, cause every time i reflash my ECU with a new tune, the jerk will go but for a short time.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by c32kompressor
to Dingleberry. i have tried what you have stated above only to prove it false. i get the jerk right away. also even just cruising the car will not shift out of 1st till 3k rpms.
going to my dealer (i know the service consultant personaly) to possibly get the test done. again to dingleberry, the jerk will go away a little but ill always get that jerk going into 2nd no matter how hot or cold the engine may be
If you know your SA, take it to him.
But if you want a new tranny. It will always be cheaper to get the tranny done somwhere else.
Dealers charge $100+/hr for labor while indis are $75 and up. Dealers mark up parts 5-10% more than indis too.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by c32kompressor
to Dingleberry. i have tried what you have stated above only to prove it false. i get the jerk right away. also even just cruising the car will not shift out of 1st till 3k rpms.
going to my dealer (i know the service consultant personaly) to possibly get the test done. again to dingleberry, the jerk will go away a little but ill always get that jerk going into 2nd no matter how hot or cold the engine may be
prove what false? it's a fact that the tcu does not lock up the clutch during the open loop cycle. myself and others have tested this... after the rpm's rise, instead of being slammed back down, the car begins to accelerate with no jerk. this is only when the tcu restricts lockup, i have also tested this with SDS, by disabling lock up. unfortunately that's not a viable solution as the setting is reset to default when the car is restarted, not to mention that it would have great impact on gas mileage.

you did not mention the 3k rpm shift at cruising. that sounds like it might be the plate located at the valve body.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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i talked to my dealer today and they wont touch the car. they say everything about it is perfect? so im taking down to a place called auto europa theyre specialists. ill keep you updated
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 12:18 AM
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if the dealership won't test it. You can send a sample to blacklabs. They do it cheaper then the dealer.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post2739493

if you need a tranny, i can sell you one of my spare trannys for cheap.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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The shop i use in Hollywood FL is familiar with Glycol contamination.
They worked on turbo16lbs' car. Let me know if you want their contact info.
I know its a haul from Ft Myers, but if you want someone you can trust with this test thats honest, it might be worth it to you.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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i found a shop in naples that im going to on thursday but if that doesnt work out i will certainly look into that
, thanks
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