Another OD informational Thread.... Yay!

As I'm sure the older members remember this thread as well as members asking me for an update on that.....
S/C Intercooler Part 1

With that thread in mind...I decided to give it another go, I still had it in storage.
Before getting into that, I needed to replace my S/C bearing along with changing the S/C oil. Since I was going to have the S/C off, I also decided to give it a full service, Port & Polish a bit and replace all gaskets (On the S/C and anything to do with the intake side of car)

Helpful links!
For the supercharger bearing replacement use this guide to disassemble Code 3 Pulley Install
Once the pulley is off, take it to a machine shop that has bearing press and have the new bearing pressed in. (Should be like $10-20 to do)

For the Supercharger oil, Use this guide
From the Crossfire Forums


First Thing, Was to disassemble S/C system.





I'll spare the details of removing everything (takes about 1-2 hours if you never done it before, Took me an 45 mins since I have done it before) Before I started this project, I looked at the EPC, and found out there were a lot of gaskets that been superseded. (This includes our MAP Sensor) I also opted for getting the Cork Gaskets for the S/C to Intercooler (I was already using the cork gaskets for the intake manifolds, but I got new ones too)



Since I had the pulley off, I did a little even sanding (Not in this picture) on both the S/C Clutch Backplate and the Pulley Clutch.
If you have a look at the Code 3 Pulley PDF, It will mention about the "Shims" ...I Measured before taking off the clutch, what the tolerance between the clutch and the clutch backplate (Mine was 0.45) My S/C has never been touched, and what I can conclude is after a while the clutch wears down which creates a wider gap. I adjusted this by taking off 2 shims (Im now at .28) far less gap then before (I'm wondering if to much will the s/c start slipping since it not biting as hard???)






Since I had the S/C off, I drained the Oil out of it, and bought the real stuff



Not in the picture, I took off the main gear for the rotors along with the front part of the S/C (Where the oil & gears are stored) then drained the remainder of the oil.



As said before I took the entire S/C apart, and cleaned up all the parts





Some of the old gaskets



Old bearing, This was totaly Shot, Im surprised it didn't seize up

 

The last Code 3 S/C Intercooler ever made! Now, since my old one was getting little gunky ( I think it was just PCV sludge this time ) I was like mmmm.... Let's try it again. So this time, I found out why it wasn't clearing the Block (Engine) For some reason it was a little to wide right on the edges. I used my dremel and a little bit hammering and got it work!



I also found out that the Inlet for the Intercooler was a little warped.... My only conclusion was when it was made (Poorly might I add) It got a little hot and warp the aluminum. So I took it down to my friends machineshop again and had them shave off 1mm (also help the fulfillment) evenly.



New y-pipe installed!







Old MAP Sensor



New MAP Sensor, Notice the new P/n and company name



Ready to be installed!



Installed, With new bearing!



I took my time with this project, going over small details, and replacing all the gaskets I could get my hands on. Took about a week, but well worth the result, I replaced the main belt as well. Since I had the Intake ports open, I stuck a little seafoam in there, clear out the pistons and valves (Not to much, You don't want to hydrolock) The car runs fine, It did backfire a whole bunch of times at the first start because one of the Y-Pipe hoses wasn't tight enough. I do have a small Boost leak, But I dind't really seem to take the power away, since I'm still able to boost and pull like you wouldn't believe... I'm thinking its the map sensor since I notice on the old one it had 2 gaskets and I only installed on the one.

I will Post up all the part numbers and possible places to get the other parts I used....

Cheers!

 

Nice writeup man! Notice any difference in throttle with new map sensor?

 

Looks so fresh with the new bearing

 

nice write up.

 

Nice write up. I wish I had the time to do stuff like this.

 

good stuff! The more i look at it, the more i feel like the intercooler replacement shouldn't be that bad. I think mine is leaking

 

Nice write-up. I did mine in December and the IATs are great, the Code 3 I/C is holding up well and the bearings are cat silent. I had one of the original Code 3 I/C and had the same (identical ) fitment issues as you and had to Dremel down several areas for fit. Once that was done however, it fit as well as stock. I also added the Needswings phenolics and their gaskets and the intakes can now be hand-touched even after a hard run.

 

Easy to know if your IC is leaking, Just buy a set of the cork gaskets from needwings or get the OEM ones from the dealer. Then take off the intakes, and covers; Unscrew the Manifolds from the back and on top, and have a look inside... Green/brown sludge on the runners and Intake manifolds = Bad IC. If its Grey/black and slightly gunky thats just the PCV run off. Ya right now I have a boost leak haha, I just got it back together so im grrrr..... I can hear a light whistle so its small.... Going to have a look at the map sensor again, probley next week.

 

Another (easier) way to tell is if you're replacing and or adding radiator/overflow fluid more often that you should. In general, a few ounces here and there are common, BUT when you get a light saying to add fluid and its often, then YOU COULD have a leak. I was getting the light about once a month and figured that was out of the norm and voila, it was a leaky IC. Your only option at this time is a new one from MB. Code 3s are no longer produced.

 

Wow, thanks a lot. That is some awesome info.

 

What is the main difference in the intercooler from stock? Size? Flow rate? How similar are they?

 

As always your engine bay and components look clean and brand spanking new.. How do you do it..? Your valve covers are spotless.. Good job on the write up, im pretty sure we will all need this in the future..

 

I know!! I was thinking about the same thing. It looks brand new.

 

Haha, Well im pretty **** about maintenance and I do clean/powerwash the enginebay from time to time.... But the real thing is, When I had the valve covers off long time ago when i first bought the car I replaced the Valve Cover Gaskets. I had the covers off, and I have this really nice Silver Caliper Paint (Rated up to 600f) (Matches my wheels) Now whats good about this paint is A. Oil resistant, B. Heat resistant (really nothing is going to get up to 500F unless it's the header or the internal part of the engine) and C. It's Dust resistant, so just hosing it off once in a while, Puts it back to new!

As far as the main difference in the intercooler, Well Code 3 could argue that it has a larger inlet and outlet for air, It's using a sparco intercooler core, The coolant does in fact hold more than the stock one.... So ya, that's what they claim. If anything its about the same as stock, but holds more coolant and lowers a little on IAT side.

 

while we're on the topic of IC's, whats the best place to get one? I haven't checked the dealership, but i can only guess rape.

Getmercedesparts.com has it for $930, any price comparisons.

And i'm getting the coolant loss as well. I'll be pulling the intake mani's next week.

 

Excellent thread. Appreciate you sharing your expertise.

That hardware looks as tidy as the day it shipped out of Affalterbach.

 

Great writeup OverDrive!
That's one sparkling motor you have!

Whatever you do, if you end up purchasing one used, make absolutely sure that it is pressure-tested BEFORE you receive it. It is NOT unreasonable to ask even an e-bay seller to pressure-test.

 

Awesome DIY, great work!

 

Did you notice a performance boost from the coated y-pipe and did you happen to get it from needswings?

 

Let me put it this way......with modified intake manifolds I bought, plus the Modded Y-pipe (In the H20 Test, I gained 108CFM, and thats not Including the Flow or IAT), It's noticeble, It's just the y-pipe, your not really going to notice a whole bunch expect the IAT is way lower. With that in mind, also now have the Code 3 Intercooler which helps even more on the IAT side....I havn't been able to do a hard run in it, as I have a small boost leak on the MAP sensor.....Also, I need to go in for a retune ( Don't tell Mr EuroCharge)

 

rita.

 

where'd all the images go? Been looking to pull apart the intakes to check for ic leaking. Be more comfortable with a visual guide.