started tear down for paint
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Is the OE adaptor M12x1.5 on both ends? If so, I wouldn't use it. I'd get an M12x1.5 male to -3 or -4 male adaptor. Then you could go right to a -3 or -4 stainless line, the a couple of other adaptors to end up at a 1/8" NPT female end for the sender. And here should be room near the AC drier unit to safely locate the sender.
Where is the ac drier? I was thinking there would be plenty free space over towards the pass. headlight-ish area, but that may be a little far.
one thing i forgot to ask about braided line connection?
one end goes to the sender which goes into the engine, the other end from the same SS hose, where does it go?
does it go into the cabin and plugged to the back of the gauge?
if yes, then braided line must be sealed when going through the front
firewall, don't want any water drippin' inside the cabin.
that would be stupeed!
is it this way you had in mind fitting a braided line under dashboard re-routing the braided line?
one end goes to the sender which goes into the engine, the other end from the same SS hose, where does it go?
does it go into the cabin and plugged to the back of the gauge?
if yes, then braided line must be sealed when going through the front
firewall, don't want any water drippin' inside the cabin.
that would be stupeed!
is it this way you had in mind fitting a braided line under dashboard re-routing the braided line?
The only thing going through the firewall will be wires.
Last edited by nd4spd13; Dec 16, 2012 at 05:29 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
NPT is a tapered thread pitch, most common for aftermarket gauges in North America.
The stainless hoses do not connect up to the gauge, they just connect the engine to the sender. The sender is mounted to the end of the hose; wiring runs from the sender to the back of the gauge.
Ideally, I would remove the lower oil pan and drill a hole in the side of the pan for the oil temperature sender. I wouldn't remote mount the oil temperature sender because if you do, then you are going to get cooler temperature than if you were taking the reading out of the pan.
The thread pitch on the oil test port is M12x1.5.
The stainless hoses do not connect up to the gauge, they just connect the engine to the sender. The sender is mounted to the end of the hose; wiring runs from the sender to the back of the gauge.
Ideally, I would remove the lower oil pan and drill a hole in the side of the pan for the oil temperature sender. I wouldn't remote mount the oil temperature sender because if you do, then you are going to get cooler temperature than if you were taking the reading out of the pan.
The thread pitch on the oil test port is M12x1.5.
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Dec 16, 2012 at 05:29 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
when you buy 1 gauge kit from VDO you get 2 color hats, green and red and all necessary mounting parts.
you just press the hat onto light bulb.
our clusters have orange illumination, it will look weird if you have three 52mm gauges with other than orange backlit color.
ask your nearest radioschack dealer if they can sell you 3 rubber hats?
I am curious if you're ever going to need that adapter for oel pressure sender?
you just press the hat onto light bulb.
our clusters have orange illumination, it will look weird if you have three 52mm gauges with other than orange backlit color.
ask your nearest radioschack dealer if they can sell you 3 rubber hats?
I am curious if you're ever going to need that adapter for oel pressure sender?
should be close enough for me
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
Easy, when you understand.
Adapter screwed in the engine block. SS line attached to the end of the adapter and finally the sender to the other end of the SS line. Electric wires attached to the sender. Wires go through the firewall and attched to the gauge. Bingo, you have a reading
Adapter screwed in the engine block. SS line attached to the end of the adapter and finally the sender to the other end of the SS line. Electric wires attached to the sender. Wires go through the firewall and attched to the gauge. Bingo, you have a reading
thanks man
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 16, 2012 at 05:43 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 29
From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
Yes it is. Hmm, interesting point. on egauges the cheapest oil pressure sender was actually m10 x 1, which is what I was planning on using. Do you think it'll be enough of a pain in the butt to find/make a section of line with m12 on one end and m10 on the other? Also if I got an adapter to put in the test port, what material would you suggest it be made of? I believe the MB adapter is either brass or steel.
Where is the ac drier? I was thinking there would be plenty free space over towards the pass. headlight-ish area, but that may be a little far.
One end goes into the sender and the other end goes into the adapter at the engine test port
The only thing going through the firewall will be wires.
Where is the ac drier? I was thinking there would be plenty free space over towards the pass. headlight-ish area, but that may be a little far.
One end goes into the sender and the other end goes into the adapter at the engine test port
The only thing going through the firewall will be wires.
Adaptor material I don't think really matters. Steel for durability (like if you expect to remove the line frequently), aluminum for looks or weight savings (as if it would be noticeable though...).
AC drier is basically next to the power steering pump on the driver's side.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Let me clarify. I am using a MECHANICAL oil pressure gauge. The "pagoda" allows me to insure the flexible line cannot make contact with any moving parts. If assembled with Teflon tape, wrapped correctly, and tightened thoroughly, these brass parts will be trouble free for a long time. Where I deserve the criticism, is in continuing to use the nylon line (which continues into the cabin), for over a year without replacing it with braided line. Saab, when/if it breaks and floods the center console, I'll pm you pics so you can have a good laugh!
I spent some time trying to find a good way to route the flexible line without using this scheme. I thought about running the flexible line inside a soft copper tube, and bending the copper to route the line away from the belt. I had no success beyond the tubing, and resorted to doing it the old fashioned "hot rod" way.
The good thing is any leak would develop slowly, allowing ample time to repair the leak.
If any of you use these methods to add an oil pressure gauge, be sure to replace the port gasket, as they are prone to leaking.
I do like the idea of remotely mounting the sender if you are using an electrical gauge. This would keep it away from the belt, as some of the senders are a little large.
I spent some time trying to find a good way to route the flexible line without using this scheme. I thought about running the flexible line inside a soft copper tube, and bending the copper to route the line away from the belt. I had no success beyond the tubing, and resorted to doing it the old fashioned "hot rod" way.
The good thing is any leak would develop slowly, allowing ample time to repair the leak.
If any of you use these methods to add an oil pressure gauge, be sure to replace the port gasket, as they are prone to leaking.
I do like the idea of remotely mounting the sender if you are using an electrical gauge. This would keep it away from the belt, as some of the senders are a little large.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
^^ looks like bot 
fishing for an innocent net surfer. I have reported to admins
fishing for an innocent net surfer. I have reported to admins
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
don't want any excessive length looking bad in da bay.
Been browsing SAABO's engine pictures.
It begins to worry me about the chunkiness of oel pressure sender + adapter.
When the belt is fitted there's very tight place to fit the sender if it can be fitted?
I bet it will poke out a lot near the belt route.
Check these engine pictures from different angles and tell me there is a problem or there are no problems fitting chunky sender?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Mar 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 29
From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
Without having the car in sight (the C43 has been at my parents' place since the fall), I would be guessing 30-45cm. I would probably also use a 45* angle on one end of the hose to help it come out at an angle, but again, without having the car nearby, it's difficult to say. That should be sufficient to place the sender somewhere safe behind the driver's side headlight area. Maybe even longer if you want to hang the sender off the fender. But again, this is just guessing, and using my memory of the car as a guide!
Remember, the sender will not be mounted to the test port directly!! The sender will be mounted to the far end of the hose, the near end of the hose will be secured into the test port.
NHmercracer - definitely old skewl to use a mechanical gauge! I think I would use a mechanical gauge for vacuum or boost, but hot oil right into the interior of the car? Brave!
Another note - if one uses AN fittings (ie, the -3 or -4 hoses I mentioned), they do not need thread sealant, as they fitting is tapered.
Dennis, I suggest you download a Goodridge, Aeroquip or Earl's catalogue from their respective websites. Lots to be learned about which fittings and such are available.
Remember, the sender will not be mounted to the test port directly!! The sender will be mounted to the far end of the hose, the near end of the hose will be secured into the test port.
NHmercracer - definitely old skewl to use a mechanical gauge! I think I would use a mechanical gauge for vacuum or boost, but hot oil right into the interior of the car? Brave!
Another note - if one uses AN fittings (ie, the -3 or -4 hoses I mentioned), they do not need thread sealant, as they fitting is tapered.
Dennis, I suggest you download a Goodridge, Aeroquip or Earl's catalogue from their respective websites. Lots to be learned about which fittings and such are available.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 29
From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
Okay, I've gone and done the homework, so here are the part numbers I would use. All are Earl's part numbers:
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
Last edited by Saaboteur; Dec 17, 2012 at 12:21 PM.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
found 4 different amp meter gauges with scales reading from:
30 -0+ 30 amp
60 -0+ 60 amp
100 -0+ 100 amp
150 -0+ 150 amp
which one is suitable for C43?
a gauge with 100 or 150 amp scale?
this is a 150 amp gauge
http://www.ebay.de/itm/271107711408?...84.m1438.l2649
30 -0+ 30 amp
60 -0+ 60 amp
100 -0+ 100 amp
150 -0+ 150 amp
which one is suitable for C43?
a gauge with 100 or 150 amp scale?
this is a 150 amp gauge
http://www.ebay.de/itm/271107711408?...84.m1438.l2649
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Okay, I've gone and done the homework, so here are the part numbers I would use. All are Earl's part numbers:
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
found 4 different amp meter gauges with scales reading from:
30 -0+ 30 amp
60 -0+ 60 amp
100 -0+ 100 amp
150 -0+ 150 amp
which one is suitable for C43?
a gauge with 100 or 150 amp scale?
this is a 150 amp gauge
http://www.ebay.de/itm/271107711408?...84.m1438.l2649
30 -0+ 30 amp
60 -0+ 60 amp
100 -0+ 100 amp
150 -0+ 150 amp
which one is suitable for C43?
a gauge with 100 or 150 amp scale?
this is a 150 amp gauge
http://www.ebay.de/itm/271107711408?...84.m1438.l2649
A voltage gauge is ample sufficient (and probably cheaper too)...
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
maybe it will be difficult to install the oil pressure gauge sender, so if I ditch this oel pressure gauge and replace it with something else like an amp gauge instead, donnoe what to buy yet?
the others I'm gonna get are volts and oel temp gauge.
3rd one is still a ?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
If I had to choose, I would get an air/fuel ratio gauge. That way you can monitor your engine and see if it is running lean or rich depending on throttle position input. Just my two cents worth....
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
those gauges you refer to only comes in black face dial and being digital they are only sold in australia not europe.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 29
From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
Expand your search, don't be stuck on VDO. Try PLX Devices for some very neat and configurable gauges, I have one in my S2000 - can flip back and forth between several different inputs. I have oil pressure, wideband AFR and vacuum/boost. Also, if you do get an air fuel gauge, spend the extra cash and get a wideband unit. That said, you would need to run the sensor into one of the downpipes. But on the other hand, wideband is probably overkill because you aren't really tuning the engine.
-4 does not equal M12x1.5. The latter is metric of course, the 'dash' sizes are AN threads, which stands for Aeronautical/Navy or something like that, it's a military specification dating back to the Second World War. It has a tapered fitting on the ends and it meant to carry fluid. Just about all of the aftermarket hoses you see from Earl's or Goodridge or Aeroquip, the braided stainless hoses, are AN sizes.
-4 does not equal M12x1.5. The latter is metric of course, the 'dash' sizes are AN threads, which stands for Aeronautical/Navy or something like that, it's a military specification dating back to the Second World War. It has a tapered fitting on the ends and it meant to carry fluid. Just about all of the aftermarket hoses you see from Earl's or Goodridge or Aeroquip, the braided stainless hoses, are AN sizes.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
could this cubby compartment be used with plastic gauge cover?
how many bots are screwing this cubby compartment in place?
is it 2 in front of the gear selector where original screws for ashtray is bolted?
how many bots are screwing this cubby compartment in place?
is it 2 in front of the gear selector where original screws for ashtray is bolted?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Mar 12, 2013 at 09:43 AM.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
-4 does not equal M12x1.5. The latter is metric of course, the 'dash' sizes are AN threads, which stands for Aeronautical/Navy or something like that, it's a military specification dating back to the Second World War. It has a tapered fitting on the ends and it meant to carry fluid. Just about all of the aftermarket hoses you see from Earl's or Goodridge or Aeroquip, the braided stainless hoses, are AN sizes.
Well your way is looking quite nice right now, as indeed, no one makes (or even wants to custom fab) a hose with m12 x 1.5.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Okay, I've gone and done the homework, so here are the part numbers I would use. All are Earl's part numbers:
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
-4 male to M12x1.5 male adaptor - 9919BFGERL (plugs into the test port)
45* -4 female to -4 female adaptor - 939204ERL (plugs into the adaptor above)
-4 hose, 12" (~30cm) pre-fabricated hose, with -4 female fittings on both ends - 64191909ERL (plugs into the adaptor above, and then into the adaptor below)
-4 male to 1/8" NPT female gauge adaptor - 968704ERL (sender plugs into one end)
Note, however, that metric gauge adaptors are quite hard to come by in North America, so I spec'd out a part for the far more common (and cheaper!) 1/8" NPT senders. Also, the hose length would still need to be verified. I'd actually measure it prior to purchasing.
Add in some cable ties to keep everything secure, and done. At least for the mechanical assembly - still need to run wiring from the sender to the inside of the car.
Guessing that the cost of these parts would be about C$60-70, based on prior experience.
Link:
http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls
You could eliminate the 45* fitting and the pre-fabricated hose by building your own hose, I've done this before. Then you would just put a 45* fitting on the end of the hose. However, the smaller the length of hose, the harder it is to cut the hose nicely - so for the smaller fittings, I've always preferred to use off the shelf hoses.
Some shots of my old Saab and the braided stainless hoses and aluminum fittings:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-longblock.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...-downpipe2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...per-airbox.jpg
One of my favourites:
http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg...ow%20angle.jpg
One more question for you, how does the 45 degree attach to the hose? Aren't they both a female end?
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 36
when you buy all parts necessary for this gauge mod please decribe each part with correct partsnumber for all of us following this thread.
Sorry SAABO I now realise we have hijacked your thread.
Pliz forgive us.
Sorry SAABO I now realise we have hijacked your thread.
Pliz forgive us.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 29
From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
Whoops, that's my mistake. Here is the part number for a 45* -4 male to -4 female:
AT924104ERL.
It's always time consuming to figure out exactly what is needed, but when it does come together, it's always very nice too!
AT924104ERL.
It's always time consuming to figure out exactly what is needed, but when it does come together, it's always very nice too!
