Help needed please! CEL = CODES
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
Help needed please! CEL = CODES
I've been having some "minor" issues lately with my CEL coming and going intermittently. Under an initial startup (sometimes, not all the time) I'll get the BAS light popping on followed by a rough idle and then the CEL. The gas pedal will not respond very well when both of these lights are on but I've been getting away with turning the car off and back on again (usually several times) before the BAS goes off to make it driveable. The idle is usually at a steady 1k-1200 rpm and if/when I try to put it in gear, it engages really hard. With an attempt to drive it, I'm only able to let the car pull itself off idle as the throttle doesn't respond. This seems to happen about every other week or so and it's really starting to get annoying. The car runs sweet when I'm not having this issue.
Codes are;
P0100 - MAF circuit...probably bad/dirty sensor?
P1580 - EA/CC/ISC ACTUATOR, RH...not sure what that is.
Thanks for any help that can be provided. I'm just getting into the whole Merc thing so I'm eager to learn and listen to helpful tips.
Cheers-
Jon
Codes are;
P0100 - MAF circuit...probably bad/dirty sensor?
P1580 - EA/CC/ISC ACTUATOR, RH...not sure what that is.
Thanks for any help that can be provided. I'm just getting into the whole Merc thing so I'm eager to learn and listen to helpful tips.
Cheers-
Jon
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From: CH = Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Hi Jon,
Thanks to MarcusF (hope he doesn't mind the highjack), I found a list of codes. Hope this can help, but I didn't find your second code
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/obdIIcodes.html
Thanks to MarcusF (hope he doesn't mind the highjack), I found a list of codes. Hope this can help, but I didn't find your second code
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/obdIIcodes.html
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
Thank you. Yea, I found that on a search earlier and it appears that the second code is the only one on the list with a "?" by it. (or at least the closest code to it.) haha.
Sucks, I'm not sure what this is - EA/CC/ISC ACTUATOR, RH..maybe something to do with the electronic throttle control?? I wasn't able to pull it up on any search either.
Maybe I'll have to leave work one of these days and head to a shop before they close so I can ask one of the techs. I don't think it has anything to do with the SC being on there but it could I suppose.
Sucks, I'm not sure what this is - EA/CC/ISC ACTUATOR, RH..maybe something to do with the electronic throttle control?? I wasn't able to pull it up on any search either.
Maybe I'll have to leave work one of these days and head to a shop before they close so I can ask one of the techs. I don't think it has anything to do with the SC being on there but it could I suppose.
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
Pulled this off another site:
"I know these apply to 1996+ W140 ME seqential multiport fuel injection engines (120.982, 119 and 104) and may apply to others.
P1580 - Right (or only) EA/CC/ISC actuator (M16/3 or M16/1)
P1581 - Left EA/CC/ISC actuator (M16/4)
Both codes will light up MIL after two trips with fault.
The codes are due to difference in voltage comparison of actual value potentiometer 1 and actual value potentiometer 2.
In my case the EA/CC/ISC actuator would intermittantly stick open; causing Limp Home mode and ESP lamp illumination. Thorough cleaning corrected the situation. "
hope this helps
"I know these apply to 1996+ W140 ME seqential multiport fuel injection engines (120.982, 119 and 104) and may apply to others.
P1580 - Right (or only) EA/CC/ISC actuator (M16/3 or M16/1)
P1581 - Left EA/CC/ISC actuator (M16/4)
Both codes will light up MIL after two trips with fault.
The codes are due to difference in voltage comparison of actual value potentiometer 1 and actual value potentiometer 2.
In my case the EA/CC/ISC actuator would intermittantly stick open; causing Limp Home mode and ESP lamp illumination. Thorough cleaning corrected the situation. "
hope this helps
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
Awesome, thanks man!
So I guess my question now is, where is this located? I'll run a search but if someone knows off the top of their melon, that'd be great.
Thanks all!
So I guess my question now is, where is this located? I'll run a search but if someone knows off the top of their melon, that'd be great.
Thanks all!
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
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Thread Starter
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
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From: Seattle
1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
EDIT: I'm wrong. Here's what it probably is:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ontrol%20Valve
on an M104 it's built into the TB and it's like $1k for that thing.
The other code is MAF.
rjp
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ontrol%20Valve
on an M104 it's built into the TB and it's like $1k for that thing.
The other code is MAF.
rjp
Last edited by RANDY_P; Feb 16, 2011 at 03:24 AM.
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From: Seattle
1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
that's a pretty significant difference between a C43 and C36-
Worst case, buying it at the dealer and having it installed on the C36 is like $1.7K because the throttle body controls idle speed....
Even buying a rebuilt one and installing it yourself is like $1k.
rjp
Worst case, buying it at the dealer and having it installed on the C36 is like $1.7K because the throttle body controls idle speed....
Even buying a rebuilt one and installing it yourself is like $1k.
rjp
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Maf circuit
means the maf is gone no amount of cleaning which is indicated when you have 0170/0173 codes is going to help it. $146 bucks autohauaz.com take the 5 minutes and replace it. Drive till the code clears then tackle the other issue if it still appears. Or for 35 bucks r/r the iasc at the same time.
Your engine should be idling at about 600-650 rpm no wonder it is banging into gear at 1200 rpm.
What SC?
Your engine should be idling at about 600-650 rpm no wonder it is banging into gear at 1200 rpm.
What SC?
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
means the maf is gone no amount of cleaning which is indicated when you have 0170/0173 codes is going to help it. $146 bucks autohauaz.com take the 5 minutes and replace it. Drive till the code clears then tackle the other issue if it still appears. Or for 35 bucks r/r the iasc at the same time.
Your engine should be idling at about 600-650 rpm no wonder it is banging into gear at 1200 rpm.
What SC?
Your engine should be idling at about 600-650 rpm no wonder it is banging into gear at 1200 rpm.
What SC?
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
So
I was thinking about this issue and we really need more of the background story.
When did the high idle condition occur? Same time as the cel?
I missed the bas light part in your post. Have you checked your battery for a full charge? BAS and poor throttle response can happen under low voltage.
Once again unless that thing is a V12 Ferrari it should not be idling at 1200 rpm.....
When did the high idle condition occur? Same time as the cel?
I missed the bas light part in your post. Have you checked your battery for a full charge? BAS and poor throttle response can happen under low voltage.
Once again unless that thing is a V12 Ferrari it should not be idling at 1200 rpm.....
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
Thanks for the info ohlord!
The thing of it is, it's an intermittent issue I've been having for the last month or so. Not sure if the cold temps have had anything to do with it or not. (seems to happen on colder days) Once the engine starts up and feels rough, the BAS light immediately comes on, followed by the CEL a second or two later, followed by the higher idle. Typical on a colder start but eventually kicks down...whereas when this problem occurs, the idle stays high. I know this isn't right and I try not to shift into gear until I get the BAS light to clear and a smoother idle. I attempted the shift only the first time it happened and realized that it hit hard into gear and since I haven't done it again cause I would hate for it to cause other problems.
I guess my question is, if the MAF circuit is trigging as well as the ISC but then goes away (and this issue only happens every other week or so..), should I assume that it's the ISC and maybe replace that first?..as the MAF should still be good if the car runs normally when the warning lights go off, right?
I'm thinking the sometimes rough idle is being triggered by the possibly faulty ISC in which makes the MAF read incorrectly, which in turn places both codes in the ECU for the CEL. My CEL still turns off after it's 3 cycle reset once I get the BAS light to go out and am able to drive it around normally again. The CEL isn't on all the time, guess I should've mentioned that in the OP.
The SC is the HPS gen 1 kit.
EDIT - And when the engine is running under normal conditions, my idle is around 600 as well.
The thing of it is, it's an intermittent issue I've been having for the last month or so. Not sure if the cold temps have had anything to do with it or not. (seems to happen on colder days) Once the engine starts up and feels rough, the BAS light immediately comes on, followed by the CEL a second or two later, followed by the higher idle. Typical on a colder start but eventually kicks down...whereas when this problem occurs, the idle stays high. I know this isn't right and I try not to shift into gear until I get the BAS light to clear and a smoother idle. I attempted the shift only the first time it happened and realized that it hit hard into gear and since I haven't done it again cause I would hate for it to cause other problems.
I guess my question is, if the MAF circuit is trigging as well as the ISC but then goes away (and this issue only happens every other week or so..), should I assume that it's the ISC and maybe replace that first?..as the MAF should still be good if the car runs normally when the warning lights go off, right?
I'm thinking the sometimes rough idle is being triggered by the possibly faulty ISC in which makes the MAF read incorrectly, which in turn places both codes in the ECU for the CEL. My CEL still turns off after it's 3 cycle reset once I get the BAS light to go out and am able to drive it around normally again. The CEL isn't on all the time, guess I should've mentioned that in the OP.
The SC is the HPS gen 1 kit.
EDIT - And when the engine is running under normal conditions, my idle is around 600 as well.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Ghost problems
that jump around like that are going to best be chased away with the good scan of sds.
If you need someone local PM me and I can check if time can be fitted.
But first check that battery charge or get it on a 10amp charger overnight and see how it runs in the morning.
If you need someone local PM me and I can check if time can be fitted.
But first check that battery charge or get it on a 10amp charger overnight and see how it runs in the morning.
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
It's just really hard to tell when it's going to happen. I'll check the charge on the battery in the mean time and see if that might have something to do with it. And when the problem happens again, I'll scan it again and see if other codes pop up.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Not
that kind of scan. I'm talking about a deep scan with star diagnostics that and a trained operator will find the issue.
Keep us posted as to the battery charge results.
Keep us posted as to the battery charge results.
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
Oh, gotcha. Yea, that's probably a really good idea as well. I'll probably have them do that when I take it in for a tranny service. (here soon)
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From: Brier, WA
HPS C43 AMG, E36 M3, MK3 GTi VR6, 66 FORD F100, 85 FORD F250, 04 GSXR
There is a local MB shop just down the street from my house that I was going to check out...either that, or there are some speed shops that are nearby as well. (not sure I'll want to pay their rates but it might be a good way to get a discounted dyno run at the same time..)
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
My local dealer just sent me an email regarding their transmission service; for the next two weeks it's $250, versus the normal rate of $350. What are indys charging nowadays?
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
I don't have a
full sds scanner but I do have a top MB tech that does high performance work on benz local to you. He has his own sds. Can track down anything and get it fixed. PM me if you want his contact info.
