Oil Drain Plug(s)
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2009 Iridium Silver C63
Oil Drain Plug(s)
I changed my right foglight today and decided to do the in-between DYI oil change while I had the car up. Removed the covers and was thoroughly confused as to which of the many bolts down there was the drain plug. I saw one on what I think was the oil pan (black metal cover, there's another black cover further back but i think that's the transmission fluid pan, its plastic or rubber coated or smething) Additionaly, I read that this car has two plugs. Anybody have some pictures or diagrams that show the plug(s) location? I'd hate to pull that one off and have transmission or some other fluid come out.
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From: prattville alabama
C63
I changed my right foglight today and decided to do the in-between DYI oil change while I had the car up. Removed the covers and was thoroughly confused as to which of the many bolts down there was the drain plug. I saw one on what I think was the oil pan (black metal cover, there's another black cover further back but i think that's the transmission fluid pan, its plastic or rubber coated or smething) Additionaly, I read that this car has two plugs. Anybody have some pictures or diagrams that show the plug(s) location? I'd hate to pull that one off and have transmission or some other fluid come out.
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From: Fairfield county, CT.
2004 Ran SRT-10,2007 S550,2016 E400c
The is a drain plug on the lower oil pan.. and also there is a drain plug on the oil cooler, which holds about a quart so make sure you drain that one to.
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2009 Iridium Silver C63
And while I'm the subject, would the top-side way extract the oil in the cooler (about 1 qt according to post above)? I was under the impression the oil from the cooler drained into the sump after shutting the engine down
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From: Vegas and Vancouver, BC
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Good question. I wonder as the oil drains using either method, will the oil in the cooler simply drain down as the oil level falls?
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2009 Iridium Silver C63
On a different note, the SA where I bought my filter claims synthetic oil has a functional life of over 13000 miles and hence the reason MB calls for oil changes at 10000miles. He recommended that I just replace the filter element to filter out any contaminants in the oil the old filter has stopped filtering. In his opinion, new oil is not needed. Thoughts?
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From: Massachusetts
'14 911S (garage queen) '13 X3 (family hauler)
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I was wondering how much of a hassle it is to drain the oil cooler on our cars?
My beast is going in for it's first oil change (to the dealer) and I've reread SuperLube's post on the Minivac deal and at the end of the post he showed pics of the oil being drained from the pan and the cooler. I know most people are just happy with a suck job
and call it done, but I think I want the dealer to drain everything, including the cooler.
I am worried that the tech will cross thread a plug or mess something up, especially if getting to the oil cooler drain is a biatch
So what has to be done/removed to get to both the pan drain and the cooler drain?
How much disassembling needs to be done?
Maybe I can live with a standard suck jobber!
Can anyone answer this?
Thanks in advance
My beast is going in for it's first oil change (to the dealer) and I've reread SuperLube's post on the Minivac deal and at the end of the post he showed pics of the oil being drained from the pan and the cooler. I know most people are just happy with a suck job
and call it done, but I think I want the dealer to drain everything, including the cooler.I am worried that the tech will cross thread a plug or mess something up, especially if getting to the oil cooler drain is a biatch
So what has to be done/removed to get to both the pan drain and the cooler drain?
How much disassembling needs to be done?
Maybe I can live with a standard suck jobber!
Can anyone answer this?
Thanks in advance
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From: Hong Kong/Charlotte
2010 C63
The oil cooler drain is easily accessible once the under-body trays have been removed (which you have to do to get at the engine oil drain plug). It is on a line between the front and side-mounted coolers. It is painted closed, and will take a bit of force to get off the first time, and you will need a new crush washer for both drain plugs (you will need two different crush washerse - they are not the same). And the mity-vac will not get the oil out of the cooler, it will leave around a quart or so in. See post 77:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-photos-4.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-photos-4.html
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From: Massachusetts
'14 911S (garage queen) '13 X3 (family hauler)
Thanks a lot ATL MB!
Should I have the dealer order new plugs and washers?
I had them replace my plugs when I had my LSD serviced, they wanted to reuse with loctite.
So if it just involves removing the lower plastic shields and drain plugs, I guess it's not too involved for the tech? I just wish I had the ability to do this myself, but I don't have the facilities.
This all got me thinking, if there's roughly a quart left in the cooler, etc wouldn't the new oil and filter eventually filter out most of the old contaniments via the new filter?
So maybe the minivac approach is not the end of the world? And the tech doesn't have to do much to my car, thus limiting the possibility of cross threading, over/undertightning plugs, leaky drain plugs, loose plastic panels, etc.
I just like to limit the time the dealer spends on my car.
There's no doubt, IMO, draining the pan and cooler is the best approach--but maybe the minivac approach is "good enough."
Thoughts?
Should I have the dealer order new plugs and washers?
I had them replace my plugs when I had my LSD serviced, they wanted to reuse with loctite.
So if it just involves removing the lower plastic shields and drain plugs, I guess it's not too involved for the tech? I just wish I had the ability to do this myself, but I don't have the facilities.
This all got me thinking, if there's roughly a quart left in the cooler, etc wouldn't the new oil and filter eventually filter out most of the old contaniments via the new filter?
So maybe the minivac approach is not the end of the world? And the tech doesn't have to do much to my car, thus limiting the possibility of cross threading, over/undertightning plugs, leaky drain plugs, loose plastic panels, etc.
I just like to limit the time the dealer spends on my car.
There's no doubt, IMO, draining the pan and cooler is the best approach--but maybe the minivac approach is "good enough."
Thoughts?
Last edited by black-clk500; Sep 2, 2011 at 07:51 AM.
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From: Alexandria, VA
07 E63 AMG, 10 C63 AMG, 07 E63 Designo, 07 E350, 09 C300, 07 C230
Changing your oil the old fashion way, is a no brainer. There is a drain plug on the oil pan, and one on the oil cooler. My E63 has two oil drain plugs on the front and rear oil pans. The C63 only has one. I wish that, I had pictures to show you.
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From: Massachusetts
'14 911S (garage queen) '13 X3 (family hauler)
Thanks Yullie you're always helpful
I just can't decide what to do.
I wish I could find a mechanic like the old timers who actually cared about the cars they work on and respected the machine.
Unfortunately, with the advent of financing, just about anyone can buy or lease an enthusiast car and they have become common place and no big deal to own and many people treat them like throw aways and unfortunately the dealerships feel the same way.
I'm just very type-a and treat all of my things the way they should be treated because I know how much work I had to do to buy them!
I just can't decide what to do.
I wish I could find a mechanic like the old timers who actually cared about the cars they work on and respected the machine.
Unfortunately, with the advent of financing, just about anyone can buy or lease an enthusiast car and they have become common place and no big deal to own and many people treat them like throw aways and unfortunately the dealerships feel the same way.
I'm just very type-a and treat all of my things the way they should be treated because I know how much work I had to do to buy them!
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From: San Jose, CA
2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Thank you very much for your post.
The drain plug at the front of your E 63 AMG engine is not convenient for draining the oil. Following the service instructions on the E 63 AMG, only the drain plug in the oil pan at the back of the engine is appropriate for draining the oil. Extracting through the dip stick is not possible either. A nearly complete emptying is guaranteed while your engine is at operating state temperature. A possible remaining quantity in the front area is negligible.
We hope this information finds you helpful.
Best regards,
AMG Private Lounge Team
The drain plug at the front of your E 63 AMG engine is not convenient for draining the oil. Following the service instructions on the E 63 AMG, only the drain plug in the oil pan at the back of the engine is appropriate for draining the oil. Extracting through the dip stick is not possible either. A nearly complete emptying is guaranteed while your engine is at operating state temperature. A possible remaining quantity in the front area is negligible.
We hope this information finds you helpful.
Best regards,
AMG Private Lounge Team
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
There is no need to order new plugs, unless you or someone stripped the original. You do need new crush washers each time you remove the plug and put it back in though (they are like a $1 or so)..
