Merc-Skycap

Hi C63 family,

Please keep in mind my C63 has 8800 miles and is mainly a garage queen (that's another discussion). It was B serviced a few months ago but I never flushed the brake fluid due to the fact the car has virtually no significant miles being 3 years old.

Anyhow, when I just recently returned from my last trip, I noticed an almost musty type odor coming from the A/C vents which goes away after you drive a bit but each time you turn the car back on, it's there. Also this smell occurs if AC is turned off. Is this a filter issue or something more serious since my dealer hinted at it being something more than just replacing a filter?

Along with the usual brake squeaks that are normal (as I have come to realize with MB), the brake pedal is a bit mush and the brakes keep squeaking even after removing brake dust and stretching the car's legs a bit. So I would assume it's a break fluid issue?

Last but not least, in SPORT mode the car is jolting between 1-2 gear and 2-1 gear. Very strange, only happens when temps are low and had never occurred before even in previous winter driving conditions. What could be causing this?

I have notified my dealer and made an appointment to check it out, but I haven't had the best luck with my MB dealers when it comes to service and don't want to rely on their assessments completely either. Hence the reason for this post, thanks!

Any help would be greatly appreciated

GHAZAN

musty odor is likely just a cabin filter issue
brake fluid usually needs to be flushed based on time intervals 2-3 years (it ages without mileage)
the transmission issue is likely just because it's cold, but worth checkin

qship5

The musty smell is likely one of two things.

1. Cabin filter
2. Mold in/around the evaporator core

Neither one is difficult to fix. Either replace the filter (Which should have been done as part of Service B) or have the evaporator cleaned of any/all mold and mildew.

As far as the brake fluid is concerned, at 3 yrs old you are overdue for replacement. Mushy pedal might be helped by new fluid, but only marginally unless the current fluid has a lot of water in it. You will likely get a firmer pdeal from the fluid change as much from having a good bleed done as from the new fluid.

jvanbrecht

Has anyone ever done a brake flush. In the past, I would use the manual 2 person method, drain a little, fill, pump brakes, drain a little from the calipers, fill reservoir, pump brakes, rince and repeat till all 4 wheels have been done.

My understanding is most dealerships use a vacuum method to change the brake fluid these days and recommend against draining through the calipers...

jvanbrecht

ps, at the same time, I will probably replace the brake lines for proper steel braided ones, not the crappy steel spring covered rubber lines that are in there now.

Yuille36

Jvanbrecht,

The dealer does in fact use vacuum pressure to pull the brake fluid down from the master cylinder. Remember that the front caliper has two bleeder screws on the top pf the caliper. One on the inside and one outside, they both need to be bleeded. I use ATE Blue Dot racing fluid, that way you can see the color change from old to new brake fluid. The spongy feel is from the brake lines rubber flexing under pressure. steel braided is the way to go, to eliminate the feeling.

Merc-Skycap

Thanks everyone for the replies. I am a noob still at this stuff. I paid roughly $380 for Service B recently and was surprised to find the musty odor coming into the cabin.

Anyone know if I can check the Air Filter on my own on this car? If so I'd like to before it goes to service on Monday. Just point me in the right direction please and I'll check it out. In terms of transmission, don't know how to check that on my own so I would be blind when speaking to the Service Techs and would have to trust them on it. - Not happy about that! lol

Also if any of you are happy with MB service near the SF Valley or West L.A. area, let me know please. It's tough to find a reliable MB service dealer near where I live. Lastly, what brand does MB use for the C63 AMG brake fluid?

qship5

I use a power bleeder to change the fluid, but then finalize with a 2 man bleed working the brake pedal. This, along with tapping the caliper with a mallet in between the brake pedal pushes when doing the two man part will get pretty much all air bubbles out of the line and improve pedal feel. I also replaced my lines with SS ones to eliminate any expansion give in the lines.

Like Yuille36, I also use ATE fluids and alternate between Super Blue (blue color) and TYP200 (yellow color) so I can easily tell when all the old fluid is out of the lines.

Staff@RPM

We sell the Power Bleeders for these cars for $54.95 and we have them in stock if anyone needs one. It's a great too to have if you do your own brakes.

qship5

+1 The power bleeder makes changing fluid much easier.

GHAZAN

Who sells good SS lines besides evosport? I want some

Jons95c36amg

Air filter is good for your mileage. Manual recommends to change them at 40k. But I would do it at 30k.

GHAZAN

checking the air filter is like unscrewing a light bulb...just go counter-clockwise on the 5 screws per side, unclip the MAF sensors and voila

kamalpatel12448

Brake fluid quality can be tested before deciding if a chanfe is required but manual says every 2 years for C63. There are a pair of software upgrades for ECU and transmission that will fix your 2-1 issues so get your dealer to do those.

Merc-Skycap

Thanks Ghazan, jons, & kamal. Will check the air filter and oil myself and mention about the ECU tune for the tranny. Does B service replenish or replace tranny fluids?

GHAZAN

that'll cost extra and prob very unnecessary for your 8k ride

qship5

I had mine custom made for around $110. PM me if you are interested in details.

ohlord

anyone doing it properly do not use vacuum bleeders. They use pressure units attached to the lid of the master cylinder res.
Pressure feeds an air free supply of dot4plus fluid through the brake system
http://store.motiveproducts.com/euro...-0100-p34.aspx
pump to set pressure,follow instructions,wis method.

jvanbrecht

Hmm.. Anyone post the instructions on that bleeder before I buy one (or does it come with them).

I may actually get that, and bleed my brakes when I change my pads (I am at about 35k miles) Anyone know if I can change the tranny fluid as well?? instructions.... (or should I just brake (yes that was intentional) down and pay a dealer

ohlord

directions
use dot4+ sold at the dealer amount in the tech section of your owners manual.

Not sure about the trans fluid on your model. If it has a trans dipstick tube with the locking cap you can diy. use 7speed spec fluid.

jvanbrecht

Okay, so I picked up one of the pressure bleeders listed above...

Other then the usual bleed from furthest to closest wheels after pressurizing... Are there any other details I should be aware off.. like the position of the bleeder on the master cylinder or there abouts...

Jons95c36amg

The tranny dipstick is no where to be found on the C63.

Merc-Skycap

Mbworlders, please chime in!

Ok so I got a call from the MB service guy telling me that my A/C filter needs to be replaced ($60) and my break fluid needs a flush ($150) and Transmission fluid was low from the factory (not sure yet what the price would be for that) No leaks whatsoever.

Now I don't believe Mercedes would give me a C63 AMG with low transmission fluid that is allowing for the jolts from 1st - 2nd and 2nd-1st. Also wouldn't the A/C filter be replaced during B?

I can understand the break flush but what do you guys think is going on here? Are those prices correct? Please let me know, thanks!

Mort

MB recommends you replace the brake fluid every 2 years so you are past due. This service is based on time and not mileage.

The cabin filter (combination filter) should have been done at B service. If so it probably does not need doing again. From the sounds of the odor you are getting the A/C drain needs to be cleaned and disinfected. So you may or may not want to put in a new filter but it cannot hurt and may help solve your odor problem on start-up.

There have been leaks known to happen to the transmission that you cannot tell because they get on the plastic shield under the engine and you never see a sign of them. This may be a problem. At least get the level confirmed. With no dipstick they must have to take a cover off to verify the level.

Not sure about prices but MB service is generally not cheap so they might be reasonable from that regard.

Merc-Skycap

Thanks Mort,

I was assured there were no leaks in the Transmission and that the fluids had been topped off. Apart from that I didn't like how they wanted to charge me extra for the Break Flush and Filter which should have been taken care of at B service, considering now that I feel ripped off for paying for B service and getting only an oil change, I won't be going back there.

Again does anyone know of a dealer in the Los Angeles area that isn't out there to not perform full service and rip their customers off? lol Please let me know if such a dealership exists.....