Break Pads and Tires any recommendations in Socal ?
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Break Pads and Tires any recommendations in Socal ?
Alright so my car has 24xxx miles and i just finished Service A , the dealer tells me that my brake pad has 10 % on them and that my rotors are near the limit and that when the brake pads will wear off i would need to change rotors and brake pads. i didnt buy anything of what he was saying and just put it on my mind. i was wondering if anybody whose in Socal that can recommend a place where i can check and change my pads for a good price , dealer asked 850 for all pads including labor. ( front and rear ). he also mentioned that a humming sound that i can hear at low rpms is from my tires which felt weird , i know that my front tires are almost worn out, but my rear tires still have some grip and not worn off. so any recommendations on new tires , i currently have p-zero they have good grip but i dont like how they wore off easily. i prefer a medium life stock tires with acceptable grip. i heard yokohama tires are like that correct me if i am wrong.
#4
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Your dealership is lying I bet. Just did a brake pad swap at 40k and I had 3 mm left on the pads and 1mm+ on the rotors. Pad swap for parts 3-400 and 1-200 for labor far less than 900 they want.
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#8
you got 24k miles out of your tires and thats not good??? I got about 5k out of my stock rears and 2nd set of rears is about toast near 5k. fronts lasted around 8 but they are far gone
fronts
fronts
#9
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#10
running stock alignment. The front tires just get killed from all the weight up front. Back wore out much more evenly.
Surprisingly the pads got lots of life left
#11
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from a willow springs, buttonwillow and willow springs again. They were looking bad after button willow but still driving on them and hit willow springs private track day a week ago, was only there for a couple hours thou.
running stock alignment. The front tires just get killed from all the weight up front. Back wore out much more evenly.
Surprisingly the pads got lots of life left
running stock alignment. The front tires just get killed from all the weight up front. Back wore out much more evenly.
Surprisingly the pads got lots of life left
Wasted many a decent LF Michelin chasing the fast guys through 2 and 8 at Willow Springs before cranking in sufficient (~2.5°) negative camber.
#12
Alright so my car has 24xxx miles and i just finished Service A , the dealer tells me that my brake pad has 10 % on them and that my rotors are near the limit and that when the brake pads will wear off i would need to change rotors and brake pads. i didnt buy anything of what he was saying and just put it on my mind. i was wondering if anybody whose in Socal that can recommend a place where i can check and change my pads for a good price , dealer asked 850 for all pads including labor. ( front and rear ). he also mentioned that a humming sound that i can hear at low rpms is from my tires which felt weird , i know that my front tires are almost worn out, but my rear tires still have some grip and not worn off. so any recommendations on new tires , i currently have p-zero they have good grip but i dont like how they wore off easily. i prefer a medium life stock tires with acceptable grip. i heard yokohama tires are like that correct me if i am wrong.
for tires think of michelin super sport since they have a mileage warranty.
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Alright fellos, sorry to reply so late i checked my pads outside the dealership and the mechanic said you have atleast 40 ~ 60 % left **** the dealership. but , the mechanic said i need alignment so bad that my front tires are only eaten in the side. so i changed my tires and put on continentals DWs for around 870 for all 4 $ but there not 2011 tires.
Service A is mainly changing oil , cleaning filters and checking if everything is ok. cost me around 199 in the dealership.
Service A is mainly changing oil , cleaning filters and checking if everything is ok. cost me around 199 in the dealership.
#14
Don't change your brakes pads till the light comes on, unless you have $$ to burn...
Why change them when they aren't worn down?
Mine are low too, but I am waiting for that little light to come on before I touch them. Especially at the price for rotors and pads.... Cha ching!!
I ordered some Portfeild RS4 pads from www.formymercedes.com - the guy was really helpful and tells me these pads will last longer then stock with less noise. They are also a bit cheaper as well.
Why change them when they aren't worn down?
Mine are low too, but I am waiting for that little light to come on before I touch them. Especially at the price for rotors and pads.... Cha ching!!
I ordered some Portfeild RS4 pads from www.formymercedes.com - the guy was really helpful and tells me these pads will last longer then stock with less noise. They are also a bit cheaper as well.
#15
I like to change pads when the braking capabilities begins to wane. I don't like driving around with pads that aren't up to snuff. But, it sounds like second mechanic told you that you have plenty of life left so that's good. And like others have said, it's very easy to visually inspect the pads to see how much life is left. Just look through the wheels at the pads.
For tires, I'm riding on Michelin PSS's and I'm really loving them. I'll get them again for sure.
I once sat in a deposition and listened to a defendant who rear ended a plaintiff admit that he never changed his brake pads in the life of his car, which was 150,000 miles. No joke. The look on the defense lawyer's face was priceless.
For tires, I'm riding on Michelin PSS's and I'm really loving them. I'll get them again for sure.
I once sat in a deposition and listened to a defendant who rear ended a plaintiff admit that he never changed his brake pads in the life of his car, which was 150,000 miles. No joke. The look on the defense lawyer's face was priceless.
Last edited by SonnyakaPig; 09-25-2011 at 07:52 PM.
#16
Don't change your brakes pads till the light comes on, unless you have $$ to burn...
Why change them when they aren't worn down?
Mine are low too, but I am waiting for that little light to come on before I touch them. Especially at the price for rotors and pads.... Cha ching!!
I ordered some Portfeild RS4 pads from www.formymercedes.com - the guy was really helpful and tells me these pads will last longer then stock with less noise. They are also a bit cheaper as well.
Why change them when they aren't worn down?
Mine are low too, but I am waiting for that little light to come on before I touch them. Especially at the price for rotors and pads.... Cha ching!!
I ordered some Portfeild RS4 pads from www.formymercedes.com - the guy was really helpful and tells me these pads will last longer then stock with less noise. They are also a bit cheaper as well.
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
For street use, wait for the light to turn on.
No, it will not hurt the disk. These did not.
Cheapest way is to change them yourself with OEM pads from an online house. The rears only need a drift pin and a hammer. The fronts add a single bolt. Really easy. Just careful about the brake fluid overflowing in the reserviour if you have ever topped it off.
No, it will not hurt the disk. These did not.
Cheapest way is to change them yourself with OEM pads from an online house. The rears only need a drift pin and a hammer. The fronts add a single bolt. Really easy. Just careful about the brake fluid overflowing in the reserviour if you have ever topped it off.
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
I am on my second set of pads front and rear, and it was only after a heavy session on track, and 75k miles, that I went below min rotor thickness. It looks like this:
Even so, I am not running to replace the rotors until another track days comes up. Realize the over design of these brakes relative to normal daily driving. You still have more capability than the E350/C350.
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; 09-26-2011 at 11:24 PM.
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2005 C55, 2006 Ram 2500 MegaCab diesel, sold 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, sold 87 190e-16v, sold 97 e420
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ggestions.html
see my thumb there of my front tire wear at the track, ignore the harse outer wear as that was a toe in issue that caused that.
#21
Stock alignment is doing that to your car. You need at least a 1.5 degrees negative camber, you'll be amazed how the car handles after. KMAC has bushings for the car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ggestions.html
see my thumb there of my front tire wear at the track, ignore the harse outer wear as that was a toe in issue that caused that.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ggestions.html
see my thumb there of my front tire wear at the track, ignore the harse outer wear as that was a toe in issue that caused that.
#22
No, you do not need to do that. Buy the caliper to measure, about $49 for the accuracy you need here.
I am on my second set of pads front and rear, and it was only after a heavy session on track, and 75k miles, that I went below min rotor thickness. It looks like this:
Even so, I am not running to replace the rotors until another track days comes up. Realize the over design of these brakes relative to normal daily driving. You still have more capability than the E350/C350.
I am on my second set of pads front and rear, and it was only after a heavy session on track, and 75k miles, that I went below min rotor thickness. It looks like this:
Even so, I am not running to replace the rotors until another track days comes up. Realize the over design of these brakes relative to normal daily driving. You still have more capability than the E350/C350.
Just the man I want to talk to...
Did you get the rotors machined when you put new pads on? Or just replaced pads and left the rotors alone?
There is little wear indicators drilled into the rotors. Were those completely wore away?
I was going to measure mine as my tech friend at the dealer gave me the min measurements that benz says the rotors are good for.. They are awfully thick in comparison to other after market rotors..
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Just the man I want to talk to...
Did you get the rotors machined when you put new pads on? Or just replaced pads and left the rotors alone?
There is little wear indicators drilled into the rotors. Were those completely wore away?
I was going to measure mine as my tech friend at the dealer gave me the min measurements that benz says the rotors are good for.. They are awfully thick in comparison to other after market rotors..
Did you get the rotors machined when you put new pads on? Or just replaced pads and left the rotors alone?
There is little wear indicators drilled into the rotors. Were those completely wore away?
I was going to measure mine as my tech friend at the dealer gave me the min measurements that benz says the rotors are good for.. They are awfully thick in comparison to other after market rotors..
I am not familiar with any wear indicators.
The minimum thickness is indicated on the rotor.
Also, I am not sure, but I do not think cross drilled rotors can be turned. No real need to turn a rotor unless it is warped.
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Alright so my car has 24xxx miles and i just finished Service A , the dealer tells me that my brake pad has 10 % on them and that my rotors are near the limit and that when the brake pads will wear off i would need to change rotors and brake pads. i didnt buy anything of what he was saying and just put it on my mind. i was wondering if anybody whose in Socal that can recommend a place where i can check and change my pads for a good price , dealer asked 850 for all pads including labor. ( front and rear ). he also mentioned that a humming sound that i can hear at low rpms is from my tires which felt weird , i know that my front tires are almost worn out, but my rear tires still have some grip and not worn off. so any recommendations on new tires , i currently have p-zero they have good grip but i dont like how they wore off easily. i prefer a medium life stock tires with acceptable grip. i heard yokohama tires are like that correct me if i am wrong.
whats a SERVICE A? i need one due also