Intake Manifold Gasket and PCV valve DIY
#104
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
PCV valve(s) are these a N. American speciality or do all C63s have them today? I know for example that the non N. American version of the W202 C43 never had these valves.
#105
Member
Mine has held up for 3 years now. I drilled it out a bit and sleeved it with the aluminum innards of an electrical crimp connector before JB Welding it.
#107
Almost 2 years on this post is still helping out big time! @chrisridebike8 thanks a lot for the detailed instructions you put together for this, I just finished up doing some work on my ML63 (same engine) everything went very well following instructions to the letter. The semi-disaster was one of the bolts snapped as I have a very inaccurate Torque wrench. I will redo it if I get any leaks, I've got enough Curil T in there to keep things kosher for a bit....I guess.
I just wanted to add my 2 cents as I didn't go in there because of a PCV issue (so I thought) but because I was getting multiple throttle body errors, actuator and potentiometer related. This made the car go into limp mode at will and it was unusable. So I decided to change the PCV while going in, and bought a metal intake manifold centre plate just in case I got in there and it was leaking, I had to because I'm thousands of miles away and I didn't want my car waiting another 2 weeks. Well it turns out the ML63 had a metal one in there already.
Ok so after I opened up the intake manifold to access the throttle bodies and clean them up, I saw the issue. The intake manifold was filled with oil, and there was oil all over the bottom of the throttle bodies, the oil came in through the hole the PCV connects to, good thing I decided to change the PCV!
Back cover of intake manifold removed to expose twin throttle body
Back of throttle body plate behind where the TB's attach to
Inside the chamber of the intake manifold, the PCV attaches to the top right, the oil came in through there
Well right off the bat the car started well, idled well and actuator/potentiometer errors gone, drove it around bit and so far so good! This is a far cry from 2 weeks ago where the car would just go into limp mode as soon as I start the engine, I guess the oil in the intakes stopped the actuators from performing optimally.
I did a test of the throttle bodies before putting them back together, disconnect the fuel pump and connect the battery turned the ignition on and pressed the throttle from inside and the actuators moved quite very effectively.
I thought I'd just share this as I searched for weeks and could not see anyone that had the same errors I was having, I came here to learn how to remove the intake manifold and this seems to have solved my problems all together.
Thanks again chrisridebike8
I just wanted to add my 2 cents as I didn't go in there because of a PCV issue (so I thought) but because I was getting multiple throttle body errors, actuator and potentiometer related. This made the car go into limp mode at will and it was unusable. So I decided to change the PCV while going in, and bought a metal intake manifold centre plate just in case I got in there and it was leaking, I had to because I'm thousands of miles away and I didn't want my car waiting another 2 weeks. Well it turns out the ML63 had a metal one in there already.
Ok so after I opened up the intake manifold to access the throttle bodies and clean them up, I saw the issue. The intake manifold was filled with oil, and there was oil all over the bottom of the throttle bodies, the oil came in through the hole the PCV connects to, good thing I decided to change the PCV!
Back cover of intake manifold removed to expose twin throttle body
Back of throttle body plate behind where the TB's attach to
Inside the chamber of the intake manifold, the PCV attaches to the top right, the oil came in through there
Well right off the bat the car started well, idled well and actuator/potentiometer errors gone, drove it around bit and so far so good! This is a far cry from 2 weeks ago where the car would just go into limp mode as soon as I start the engine, I guess the oil in the intakes stopped the actuators from performing optimally.
I did a test of the throttle bodies before putting them back together, disconnect the fuel pump and connect the battery turned the ignition on and pressed the throttle from inside and the actuators moved quite very effectively.
I thought I'd just share this as I searched for weeks and could not see anyone that had the same errors I was having, I came here to learn how to remove the intake manifold and this seems to have solved my problems all together.
Thanks again chrisridebike8
I have opened my inlet plenum for cleaning and noticed. The two black rubbers from the throttle bodies are missing , I can’t seem to find the part anywhere or even the name of these 🤦♂️, will this effect the engine performance in anyway thanks
#108
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I checked the MB Parts Information system and didn't see the rubber seals either
Here's a copy of the diagram and parts list for info
Here's a copy of the diagram and parts list for info
#109
if I can’t find the gasket/ Seal could I use gasket sealer ?
thanks for your help much appreciated 👍👍
#110
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Sorry can't help there. I have never opened the intake or throttle bodies area so don't yet know how it looks inside.
However I imagine that those rubber gaskets serve a purpose and I wouldn't go without them. You need to check with the dealer. I doubt they are going to be expensive, but one never knows
However I imagine that those rubber gaskets serve a purpose and I wouldn't go without them. You need to check with the dealer. I doubt they are going to be expensive, but one never knows
#111
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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
So it looks like the two pieces that are missing from my throttle bodies are item no 10 on those drawings (described as fitting) . I wonder why these where left out 🤔 are they known for breaking also do you know if it would affect the running of the car in any way ?.
if I can’t find the gasket/ Seal could I use gasket sealer ?
thanks for your help much appreciated 👍👍
if I can’t find the gasket/ Seal could I use gasket sealer ?
thanks for your help much appreciated 👍👍
#112
MBWorld Fanatic!
I might have a set for you. You will notice sharper throttle tip in with the stacks installed. Amg engineers know what they are doing and put them there for a reason.
#113
So those are like velocity stacks sort of if you are talking about #10, they are known to break when taken on and off if you are not careful as they are plastic and can get a bit brittle and they just clip on so the clips can break. Likely someone has been in there before broke them and tossed the. What they do is help smooth out the flow of the air into the throttle body, if they are missing they likely have a minimal effect on airflow. It isn't a gasket so you could not use gasket maker on it.
#114
I thought they might of been one of those over engineered items that either don’t work or not really needed like the swirl flaps on the Bmw e60 motors 😂. Turns out they break and people don’t bother replacing. Could be one of the reasons it’s idling a little bit lumpy. 👍
#115
MBWorld Fanatic!
That would be great! Thanks.
I thought they might of been one of those over engineered items that either don’t work or not really needed like the swirl flaps on the Bmw e60 motors 😂. Turns out they break and people don’t bother replacing. Could be one of the reasons it’s idling a little bit lumpy. 👍
I thought they might of been one of those over engineered items that either don’t work or not really needed like the swirl flaps on the Bmw e60 motors 😂. Turns out they break and people don’t bother replacing. Could be one of the reasons it’s idling a little bit lumpy. 👍
#116
#117
MBWorld Fanatic!
I found 1 stack and tge 82mm are oem plug and play 550 model car throttle bodies.. like from a e550 or s550 na engines.. can be found cheap on ebay.
#118
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Mort (12-28-2020)
#121
I've been having issues with my oil dipstick coming out and after some research it seems this PCV valve could be causing that. I've only put on about 3k miles since owning it. I ordered the PCV valve for my ml63. Apparently its a pain to access without removing the manifold as noted in the guide. However it seems that it may due to the space in the C63, I think the ML63 may have more space. Would that make it a little bit easier to DIY?
#123
MBWorld Fanatic!
Same thing happened to me. I don't know the part number, but I can tell you that it has been updated with what looks like a steel bolt this time around. A trip to the dealer will have them pull it up on their screen and order it in for you.
#124
Hi, I was attempting this DIY and the vacuum hose at the front of the IM snapped, leaving a piece inside... does any know the part # to this? I do not see any numbers on the hose or plastic. Thanks
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go team (05-22-2021)
#125
Senior Member
You can just pull the line apart from the black and blue adapter next time just ahead of that bung. There’s no part number for it you may be able to get it from a cheap Benz sprinter manifold.