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My passenger rear brake disc was business as usual when it comes to a disc swap....half an hour, easy and simple. My driver side was hours of pain. It really didn't want to come off. After hours with the hammer, bolt-techniques, crowbars, swearing and then prayers, I managed to get the disc off, but it had so much tension from the shoes that I knew it would be really hard to get the new one back on....which is now the case.
I've tried altering the slack on the spindel wheel thing and moving the shoe assembly up/down to provide clearance. However it doesn't appear to the shoes that's causing the obstruction. It's the white/rusted thing on the right side of the assembly that looks like it's fouling the new and old disc. Any suggestions/tips?
Also....ans I'm sure this isn't normal either. The bare hub itself without the disc sitting on it is extremely hard to turn (yes it's in neutral). I need to stick a wheel bolt with a rachet to get it to rotate. I'm pretty sure the passenger side wasn't like this but I can't remember for sure (when random things like this happen, they make you question your sanity). No grinding or harsh sounds from the hub...just extremely stiff.
For reference, my hand brake has always been rubbish and never really worked, eventhough i apply it all the time after shutting the car off. I wonder if the prev owner/technician tightened the cable that leads to that drum from an adjustment point inside the car or in the transmission tunnel (if this car has an adjustment point there)
I'll try any and all suggestions tomorrow as it's 9pm here now.
That part is part of the knuckle, it doesn't move and it shouldn't be hitting the rotors inner drum at all. Clean the crud off of it and see what happens. Strip it down to bare metal, wind the parking brake adjuster all the way in, and it should just slip on. Then properly adjust your parking brake while you're in there, so it works better when you are done.
Haha never know sometimes it's something crazy stupid
actually I had an issue with my c32 rear brakes now that I think of it something similar to what you are having can't remember what the issue or remedy was though
I only have a general opinion, have not replaced the rear rotors yet, only the fronts.
BTW, I have good news, New part number front rotors with the current OEM front brake pads = no more outer lip on the rotor. They finally got the pads to completely sweep the rotor, with no lip left.
Anyway: rear parking shoes mechanism is always just a funky, spring-loaded mess to align.
I mean, do you have access to the wis?, have you covered any possible adjustment?
And I have a question: why do all seem to engage the parking brake? Is there a weakness in the transmission? Or do only MCT guys do this?
So in the end it turned out that the rear back plate was touching the other side of the disc hub (custom rear two piece discs) and not allowing them to seat flush.
Nothing that would be sorted out with a hammer, a punch and some daylight.
Thanks for any/all suggestions. I'm now 6lbs lighter on either side of the rear
Wait a minute there......
You installed rear rotors with no parking drums and attached mini parking brake calipers on two-piece rear rotors?
Need more details....
Yeah no, simply a pair of rear two piece rotors, but the parking brake is retained (and now working the way the good Lord intended) and I have the same calipers....
Dunno if you guys know this, but the W212 E63 has 360mm rear discs....i know some of you like bigger brakes for track or baller factor...you should just get the calipers and discs from a W212.
Last edited by Celicasaur; Jan 13, 2018 at 12:14 PM.
Yeah no, simply a pair of rear two piece rotors, but the parking brake is retained (and now working the way the good Lord intended) and I have the same calipers....
Dunno if you guys know this, but the W212 E63 has 360mm rear discs....i know some of you like bigger brakes for track or baller factor...you should just get the calipers and discs from a W212. I am also pretty sure the fronts are 390mm....but i haven't measured mine to validate this claim.
here are the maximum rear brake weight savings:
1. You convert from a 2 rear brake caliper system to a 4 rear brake caliper system. This means that you add to your two normal rear calipers an additional two "mini" calipers. these additional two are clocked 90 degrees from the existing ones with an appropriate bracket and they are cable operated, not hydraulic.
2. These additional two rear cable operated mini lightweight calipers, complete with pads, take up the function of the parking brake drum/shoe system.
3. Now that there is this alternate parking brake, you install alternate rear rotors, that do not feature any drums. You also remove all the drum brake components, shoes, mechanism, springs, dust shield.
4. Because you remove the rear drum function, you can now have true two piece rear rotors, where the bell is completely aluminum and light weight
When I read the weight savings you posted, I thought you went this route. This, under my opinion maxes out the rear weight reduction.
I am not aware of a C63 kit, but can post a picture on a different car and can say that many times the mini caliper is a Brembo or WIlwood and they are known to make kits.
Another beautifully explained post from yourself bro....thanks for the input.
Mine is nothing particularly fancy unfortunately. It has an iron liner on the inside for the parking brake. Here's stock vs the ones that have just been fitted. Stock is ~10.5kg (although this pic shows ~10kg, i know), new is 7.3kg (according to a digital scale).
thanks..
So for those that don't mind to spend a few bucks on rear brakes, check out Brembo rear calipers with integrated electric parking brake mini calipers...
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Wow, that’s all very complicated....
For what it’s worth, the RacingBrake BS-spec BBK has a 360mm rear rotor with alloy hats that are modified to fit over the existing parking brake drum. (you do need the BS rear calipers for it to work)
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Rear brake disc wont go on - Help!
