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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 01:19 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I've had it disconnected for days. So I have a few hundred miles on it as-is.

What's the sleep procedure? I read what you had written in your AWE Simulators thread. But how are you accessing the trunk without raising the car out of sleep mode? I gotta unlock the car to get to the trunk. Or are you popping the trunk, then locking the car (assuming you can do that) with the trunk open, leaving it open for 10+ min, then reconnecting the ASR module (while leaving your key far away)?

Then when do you start/lock/unlock the car afterward?

And you said don't touch the keyfob...so does it default to open mode? And leave the OEM valve button in default off? Or press it to open?

Yea I'm being a little particular, cuz I REALLY wanna get this to work =-/
It’s relatively straight forward. With the car off and not powered (key not in ACC), pop your trunk and then lock the car with your MB keyfob. If it doesn’t lock, don’t worry. Move the MB keys away from the car at the distance or location you’ve already determined is far enough away where the signal can’t reach the car.

Let the car sit for about 10 minutes. All electronics should be off in the car - all interior lights (including trunk), screens, etc should not be on. Then you’re free to install the ASR. Once it’s installed, you’re good to go. Grab your MB key and fire the car up!

The ASR defaults to whatever you specified when you ordered your module. You can always reprogram the start mode by pressing the button of the mode you want to start with about 5-6 times rapidly. You’ll hear the exhaust valves cycling between open and closed several times. This confirms that the ASR start setting has been programmed.

You're free to use the OEM exhaust button as usually, I like to have it on since I’m driving in Sport+ or Race most of the time anyway, and I think it allows the h-pipe valve to open more aggressively. On the ASR keyfob, only switch between the 100% open mode and the “Series” or Stock/OEM mode. Do not use the comfort/quiet mode on the ASR keyfob. If you want quiet, use the ASR keyfob to go to the stock programming, and then press the exhaust button on the dash as you would when stock.

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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 02:09 PM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by Fordgt40


Valve is opening 100% and remains open but no increase in volume, it’s very odd.

that sure is odd. I mean, I’m sure you’re scratching your head too, but you’d think a physically opening of the valves would kind of have to have an impact on the volume.

You do see an increase (very noticeable) on Comfort with the valves open though? Or not even then?
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 02:43 PM
  #478  
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Originally Posted by ezatnova


that sure is odd. I mean, I’m sure you’re scratching your head too, but you’d think a physically opening of the valves would kind of have to have an impact on the volume.

You do see an increase (very noticeable) on Comfort with the valves open though? Or not even then?
Sorry my fault I should have been more clear, when in loud factory setting and engine idling the valve at the rear is closed, turn loud setting off valve stays closed and sound reduces, switch to module loud and valve opens but no difference to factory loud setting, switch to quiet and just the same as factory quiet, it behaves just the same in sport+ or comfort, like I say, it’s odd that this is just on 2018 models.

Also what is also odd is the fact that the PE on my present car in loud mode is no louder and some say not as loud as my previous non PE car, maybe it will get better with mileage.





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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 03:26 PM
  #479  
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Originally Posted by Fordgt40


Sorry my fault I should have been more clear, when in loud factory setting and engine idling the valve at the rear is closed, turn loud setting off valve stays closed and sound reduces, switch to module loud and valve opens but no difference to factory loud setting, switch to quiet and just the same as factory quiet, it behaves just the same in sport+ or comfort, like I say, it’s odd that this is just on 2018 models.

Also what is also odd is the fact that the PE on my present car in loud mode is no louder and some say not as loud as my previous non PE car, maybe it will get better with mileage.





In Sport+ and Race with the OEM exhaust button on, I can’t hear any difference at idle either. But I can physically see the valves opening fully when I switch it with the ASR. Sport+ and Race mode raises the idle speed and volume, so I can’t tell any difference there at idle. But, as soon as the car is in gear and rolling, there’s a huge difference. 1500-3000 RPM at low cruising speeds with the windows down sounds beastly compared to the OEM exhaust on.

I wouldn’t worry about the idle noise not being drastically different, because around town it sounds amazing. Just pulling away slowly from a stop with the windows down you can hear this deep guttural burble that wasn’t there with the stock valve programming.
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 04:17 PM
  #480  
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2016 C63S
Originally Posted by AlexZTuned


In Sport+ and Race with the OEM exhaust button on, I can’t hear any difference at idle either. But I can physically see the valves opening fully when I switch it with the ASR. Sport+ and Race mode raises the idle speed and volume, so I can’t tell any difference there at idle. But, as soon as the car is in gear and rolling, there’s a huge difference. 1500-3000 RPM at low cruising speeds with the windows down sounds beastly compared to the OEM exhaust on.

I wouldn’t worry about the idle noise not being drastically different, because around town it sounds amazing. Just pulling away slowly from a stop with the windows down you can hear this deep guttural burble that wasn’t there with the stock valve programming.
Agree with all of this, except I’d say I can here a slight difference at idle, too. It’s not drastic by any means, and far less than when rolling onto the throttle to get moving, but, nonetheless I can hear it get a tiny bit louder when switching from factory Sport+ loud to ASR open.

Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.

I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 06:55 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by AlexZTuned


It’s relatively straight forward. With the car off and not powered (key not in ACC), pop your trunk and then lock the car with your MB keyfob. If it doesn’t lock, don’t worry. Move the MB keys away from the car at the distance or location you’ve already determined is far enough away where the signal can’t reach the car.

Let the car sit for about 10 minutes. All electronics should be off in the car - all interior lights (including trunk), screens, etc should not be on. Then you’re free to install the ASR. Once it’s installed, you’re good to go. Grab your MB key and fire the car up!

The ASR defaults to whatever you specified when you ordered your module. You can always reprogram the start mode by pressing the button of the mode you want to start with about 5-6 times rapidly. You’ll hear the exhaust valves cycling between open and closed several times. This confirms that the ASR start setting has been programmed.

You're free to use the OEM exhaust button as usually, I like to have it on since I’m driving in Sport+ or Race most of the time anyway, and I think it allows the h-pipe valve to open more aggressively. On the ASR keyfob, only switch between the 100% open mode and the “Series” or Stock/OEM mode. Do not use the comfort/quiet mode on the ASR keyfob. If you want quiet, use the ASR keyfob to go to the stock programming, and then press the exhaust button on the dash as you would when stock.
1) Thanks

2) I'm generally on the same page, except for the remote buttons. I have the keyfob that only has OEM or open. No closed option. So when I connect it and start driving, I'm hoping it'll still in the open position. If not, I'll need to press the Open button (#1, as #2 is for closed).

So pop trunk, double lock on OEM keyfob, leave for 10+ min with key out of range, come back without key, connect ASR module, close trunk. Go get key, unlock, and try as is? And if it's quiet, press the open button on the ASR keyfob.

Right?
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:23 PM
  #482  
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AMG C63S
Where do you purchase an H Valve sim to keep the H valve open and how do you install it?
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:31 PM
  #483  
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Originally Posted by superstarR
Where do you purchase an H Valve sim to keep the H valve open and how do you install it?
doesn't do anything
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:45 PM
  #484  
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Do you have to remove the H valve to get the full sound? How do you remove it?
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 08:19 PM
  #485  
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It bloody doesn't do anything 😭
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 09:48 PM
  #486  
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Yea it's odd, I tested the sim on the h-pipe valve to force it open. I tested the idle and it still gets quieter the harder you press on the brake. So either the ECU is controlling and overriding the sim to close the h-valve, or maybe the ECU has it programmed in the actual engine tune. Could be messing with fuel injection to muffle the sound as you press the brake?
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 10:39 PM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by ezatnova


Agree with all of this, except I’d say I can here a slight difference at idle, too. It’s not drastic by any means, and far less than when rolling onto the throttle to get moving, but, nonetheless I can hear it get a tiny bit louder when switching from factory Sport+ loud to ASR open.

Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.

I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.
I agree with all of this except for the last line... I have secondary cat deletes and it is all now perfect. The cat deletes doesn't make a drastic difference - more of a subtle different that increases exponentially with increased throttle. Also, more pops/crackles.

And for anyone else, see further up for my Youtube video showing the difference in OEM-open at idle vs ASR-open at idle.
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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 09:47 AM
  #488  
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The sounds of these car are heavily ECU dependent. Ofcourse I do not know how it is working for you guys as I do not have the same car, but for the 43, we get burbles pops and cracks with the PE only in S+. So I tried something to see how much of it is ECU controlled. I went to S+ which automatically turns on the exhaust button in the center console. With the ASR module in open mode as well, I get all the pops bangs and crackles, but if I keep the valves open using ASR module but turn the exhaust button off in centre console while being in S+, all the pops crackles and burbles suddenly disappear and the car gets much quieter, even though the valve is completely open. Which kind of explains how much of the sound is dependent on the ECU controlling the fueling.

Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 01:40 AM
  #489  
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'18 C63s Coupe
Originally Posted by munis
The sounds of these car are heavily ECU dependent. Ofcourse I do not know how it is working for you guys as I do not have the same car, but for the 43, we get burbles pops and cracks with the PE only in S+. So I tried something to see how much of it is ECU controlled. I went to S+ which automatically turns on the exhaust button in the center console. With the ASR module in open mode as well, I get all the pops bangs and crackles, but if I keep the valves open using ASR module but turn the exhaust button off in centre console while being in S+, all the pops crackles and burbles suddenly disappear and the car gets much quieter, even though the valve is completely open. Which kind of explains how much of the sound is dependent on the ECU controlling the fueling.

Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.
Josh @AWE gave a good answer in another thread related to the purpose of the H Pipe:

For this particular application the h-pipe is purely for acoustics. When the valve is in the open position the exhaust note is given a more refined tone. With the h-pipe valve in the closed position the h-pipe is bypassed resulting in a more aggressive, rowdy tone.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 07:04 AM
  #490  
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Originally Posted by munis
The sounds of these car are heavily ECU dependent. Ofcourse I do not know how it is working for you guys as I do not have the same car, but for the 43, we get burbles pops and cracks with the PE only in S+. So I tried something to see how much of it is ECU controlled. I went to S+ which automatically turns on the exhaust button in the center console. With the ASR module in open mode as well, I get all the pops bangs and crackles, but if I keep the valves open using ASR module but turn the exhaust button off in centre console while being in S+, all the pops crackles and burbles suddenly disappear and the car gets much quieter, even though the valve is completely open. Which kind of explains how much of the sound is dependent on the ECU controlling the fueling.

Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.

I tried some various settings yesterday and on the c63 it seems the OEM performance exhaust button makes no difference on pops/aggressiveness whether on or off, when the ASR valve is activated to open.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 10:55 AM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by ezatnova



I tried some various settings yesterday and on the c63 it seems the OEM performance exhaust button makes no difference on pops/aggressiveness whether on or off, when the ASR valve is activated to open.
That's very interesting. Cause mine completely disappears when the exhaust button in console is off. I then only get the pure engine noise with the valves open, which makes for a very interesting noise as well for our v6, haha. Sounds very close to a Nissan GTR. The minute I push the exhaust button again though, all the burbles, snarls, pops come right back up.

For the C43, it has been verified though that the cars with PE comes with a sound module which works separately from the actual ECU. I guessed may be it would be the same for the C63 but may be not?
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 07:48 PM
  #492  
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Originally Posted by munis
That's very interesting. Cause mine completely disappears when the exhaust button in console is off. I then only get the pure engine noise with the valves open, which makes for a very interesting noise as well for our v6, haha. Sounds very close to a Nissan GTR. The minute I push the exhaust button again though, all the burbles, snarls, pops come right back up.

For the C43, it has been verified though that the cars with PE comes with a sound module which works separately from the actual ECU. I guessed may be it would be the same for the C63 but may be not?
I appreciate you're trying to help, but you can't compare your exhaust to what we have on the C63. This is an entirely different drivetrain, engine programming... We obviously have a different exhaust set up with 3 valves, all of which operate differently based on the drive mode selected on the C63. Only Sport+ and Race mode pops and cracks with the C63, regardless of whether the exhaust button is on or off. AMG doesn't program artificial pops in Sport and Comfort mode. It's different on your C43 because it's a different car and drivetrain.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 08:39 PM
  #493  
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I have a 2017 c63s coupe and had some bad luck with the valve simulators as they keep cutting the car's power when the units are installed. So I went ahead and purchased my ASR module (from another forum member) today and installed it this evening. The cars sounds terriffi and there's no power loss. Installation was also much, much easier then the simulators.
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Old Jun 14, 2018 | 09:16 AM
  #494  
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Such a shame the simulator doesn't work on the H-pipe valve

However, as per my previous post (and video), I'm still happy with the ASR module + my existing secondary cat delete!
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Old Jun 14, 2018 | 10:05 AM
  #495  
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2016 C63S
Not to muddy the waters further, but with the impending entrance of the JB4 tune, BMS might very well be implementing valve control through CANBUS (via customized OEM button pressing), as they have done for the BMW’s. Pretty slick solution that could make the need for an auxiliary model redundant. Then again, if someone doesn’t want a tune and just the valve control, the ASR would still be ideal.

Oh well, all speculation on the features of the JB4 until we hear it from the horse’s mouth.
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Old Jun 15, 2018 | 06:49 PM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by ezatnova


Agree with all of this, except I’d say I can here a slight difference at idle, too. It’s not drastic by any means, and far less than when rolling onto the throttle to get moving, but, nonetheless I can hear it get a tiny bit louder when switching from factory Sport+ loud to ASR open.

Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.

I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.
Finally installed my ASR module last weekend and wanted to chime in. I have a '16 c63s (11/2015 build). I can definitely hear the difference the module makes at start-up, pulling away from stop signs... slower speed cruising...etc... (basically what Ezatnova said). I'm pretty happy with it over all!
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Old Jun 15, 2018 | 06:56 PM
  #497  
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C63 S AMG
Just installed my ASR today and Wow! Just amazing! The extra rumble and feel is so much worth the money. Works perfect on my 2016 C63S and agree with above - low rpms, idle, comfort mode is not too shy anymore and sport+ is even louder than before.
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 04:16 AM
  #498  
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Although the module didn’t do anything on my U.K. 2018 model I have to say the company is top notch, I contacted Daniel and without question I got a refund less postage cost when I returned the module, such a shame it didn’t work on my car.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 02:29 AM
  #499  
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I found a new solution, which does not have any hardware mod required. I could go into ECU change the coding to deactivate the Flaps. Then the Flaps will stay 100% open all the time.
Also I could change the Start/Stop working logic, make it has Last mode memory function, means once you then it off, then it will stay off until you turn it back on.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 09:42 AM
  #500  
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2018 C63S Coupe
Have you been able to find a memory function to keep the engine in the last performance mode used? ie. If I turn the car off in Sport +, the next time I restart the car it starts back in Sport +?

Do you have to remove the ECU to reprogram these features or can you access it via obdii?
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