Active sound module
What's the sleep procedure? I read what you had written in your AWE Simulators thread. But how are you accessing the trunk without raising the car out of sleep mode? I gotta unlock the car to get to the trunk. Or are you popping the trunk, then locking the car (assuming you can do that) with the trunk open, leaving it open for 10+ min, then reconnecting the ASR module (while leaving your key far away)?
Then when do you start/lock/unlock the car afterward?
And you said don't touch the keyfob...so does it default to open mode? And leave the OEM valve button in default off? Or press it to open?
Yea I'm being a little particular, cuz I REALLY wanna get this to work =-/
Let the car sit for about 10 minutes. All electronics should be off in the car - all interior lights (including trunk), screens, etc should not be on. Then you’re free to install the ASR. Once it’s installed, you’re good to go. Grab your MB key and fire the car up!
The ASR defaults to whatever you specified when you ordered your module. You can always reprogram the start mode by pressing the button of the mode you want to start with about 5-6 times rapidly. You’ll hear the exhaust valves cycling between open and closed several times. This confirms that the ASR start setting has been programmed.
You're free to use the OEM exhaust button as usually, I like to have it on since I’m driving in Sport+ or Race most of the time anyway, and I think it allows the h-pipe valve to open more aggressively. On the ASR keyfob, only switch between the 100% open mode and the “Series” or Stock/OEM mode. Do not use the comfort/quiet mode on the ASR keyfob. If you want quiet, use the ASR keyfob to go to the stock programming, and then press the exhaust button on the dash as you would when stock.
You do see an increase (very noticeable) on Comfort with the valves open though? Or not even then?
Also what is also odd is the fact that the PE on my present car in loud mode is no louder and some say not as loud as my previous non PE car, maybe it will get better with mileage.
Sorry my fault I should have been more clear, when in loud factory setting and engine idling the valve at the rear is closed, turn loud setting off valve stays closed and sound reduces, switch to module loud and valve opens but no difference to factory loud setting, switch to quiet and just the same as factory quiet, it behaves just the same in sport+ or comfort, like I say, it’s odd that this is just on 2018 models.
Also what is also odd is the fact that the PE on my present car in loud mode is no louder and some say not as loud as my previous non PE car, maybe it will get better with mileage.
I wouldn’t worry about the idle noise not being drastically different, because around town it sounds amazing. Just pulling away slowly from a stop with the windows down you can hear this deep guttural burble that wasn’t there with the stock valve programming.
In Sport+ and Race with the OEM exhaust button on, I can’t hear any difference at idle either. But I can physically see the valves opening fully when I switch it with the ASR. Sport+ and Race mode raises the idle speed and volume, so I can’t tell any difference there at idle. But, as soon as the car is in gear and rolling, there’s a huge difference. 1500-3000 RPM at low cruising speeds with the windows down sounds beastly compared to the OEM exhaust on.
I wouldn’t worry about the idle noise not being drastically different, because around town it sounds amazing. Just pulling away slowly from a stop with the windows down you can hear this deep guttural burble that wasn’t there with the stock valve programming.
Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.
I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.




It’s relatively straight forward. With the car off and not powered (key not in ACC), pop your trunk and then lock the car with your MB keyfob. If it doesn’t lock, don’t worry. Move the MB keys away from the car at the distance or location you’ve already determined is far enough away where the signal can’t reach the car.
Let the car sit for about 10 minutes. All electronics should be off in the car - all interior lights (including trunk), screens, etc should not be on. Then you’re free to install the ASR. Once it’s installed, you’re good to go. Grab your MB key and fire the car up!
The ASR defaults to whatever you specified when you ordered your module. You can always reprogram the start mode by pressing the button of the mode you want to start with about 5-6 times rapidly. You’ll hear the exhaust valves cycling between open and closed several times. This confirms that the ASR start setting has been programmed.
You're free to use the OEM exhaust button as usually, I like to have it on since I’m driving in Sport+ or Race most of the time anyway, and I think it allows the h-pipe valve to open more aggressively. On the ASR keyfob, only switch between the 100% open mode and the “Series” or Stock/OEM mode. Do not use the comfort/quiet mode on the ASR keyfob. If you want quiet, use the ASR keyfob to go to the stock programming, and then press the exhaust button on the dash as you would when stock.
2) I'm generally on the same page, except for the remote buttons. I have the keyfob that only has OEM or open. No closed option. So when I connect it and start driving, I'm hoping it'll still in the open position. If not, I'll need to press the Open button (#1, as #2 is for closed).
So pop trunk, double lock on OEM keyfob, leave for 10+ min with key out of range, come back without key, connect ASR module, close trunk. Go get key, unlock, and try as is? And if it's quiet, press the open button on the ASR keyfob.
Right?
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Agree with all of this, except I’d say I can here a slight difference at idle, too. It’s not drastic by any means, and far less than when rolling onto the throttle to get moving, but, nonetheless I can hear it get a tiny bit louder when switching from factory Sport+ loud to ASR open.
Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.
I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.
And for anyone else, see further up for my Youtube video showing the difference in OEM-open at idle vs ASR-open at idle.
Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.
Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.
For this particular application the h-pipe is purely for acoustics. When the valve is in the open position the exhaust note is given a more refined tone. With the h-pipe valve in the closed position the h-pipe is bypassed resulting in a more aggressive, rowdy tone.
Also can one of you guys explain why the H pipe is affecting the quietness/ loudness? Cause my understanding was that the H pipe is there for varying the tone of the exhaust, not the loudness persay. If the H pipe is closed and the muffler valves are open, minus the cats, you guys basically have a straight pipe the, which should be just as loud with the H pipe valve open. Unless I am missing something.
I tried some various settings yesterday and on the c63 it seems the OEM performance exhaust button makes no difference on pops/aggressiveness whether on or off, when the ASR valve is activated to open.
For the C43, it has been verified though that the cars with PE comes with a sound module which works separately from the actual ECU. I guessed may be it would be the same for the C63 but may be not?
For the C43, it has been verified though that the cars with PE comes with a sound module which works separately from the actual ECU. I guessed may be it would be the same for the C63 but may be not?




Oh well, all speculation on the features of the JB4 until we hear it from the horse’s mouth.
Agree with all of this, except I’d say I can here a slight difference at idle, too. It’s not drastic by any means, and far less than when rolling onto the throttle to get moving, but, nonetheless I can hear it get a tiny bit louder when switching from factory Sport+ loud to ASR open.
Now, at stop lights, the car is fairly noticeable when very lightly on the brake. When pressing the brake hard, as we know, it shuts the H valve and the car gets quiet regardless of ASR or not. Maybe that’s a variable factor that people need to consider too. Try playing with the ASR when on the brake just enough to hold the car from rolling.
I’ll put it this way, with the increase in idle volume I got from the ASR, I am slightly hesitant to even pursue the secondary cat deletes, in fear of the idle being borderline annoying in the car.
Also I could change the Start/Stop working logic, make it has Last mode memory function, means once you then it off, then it will stay off until you turn it back on.
Do you have to remove the ECU to reprogram these features or can you access it via obdii?



