Catted DP’s installed on 2020 C63 Coupe
"One thing we wanted to let you know is that the O2 Spacer you provided us does not fit with the limited spacing around the mid-pipes. It is physically impossible to make it fit as it hits a coolant line without the O2 Sensor even installed. We're assuming the forums that you've read must have an aftermarket exhaust or modified their exhaust as there is no way to make these fit."
So this is what the shop sent me as to the spacing and coolant line. I don't know how you guys were able to get it to fit.
I don't know if there is value in running one spacer at this point, just frustrated that after going with catted DP and getting the spacers, still have issues.
So this is what the shop sent me as to the spacing and coolant line. I don't know how you guys were able to get it to fit.
I don't know if there is value in running one spacer at this point, just frustrated that after going with catted DP and getting the spacers, still have issues.
"One thing we wanted to let you know is that the O2 Spacer you provided us does not fit with the limited spacing around the mid-pipes. It is physically impossible to make it fit as it hits a coolant line without the O2 Sensor even installed. We're assuming the forums that you've read must have an aftermarket exhaust or modified their exhaust as there is no way to make these fit."
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My shop said that the DP are typically made on a jig, so a little variance on how it is secured could put the bung on a different angle or position.
The other possibility is that my coolant line is different - I have a 2020 C63S, what year are yours?
Regardless, the CEL was off for the drive from the shop to the dyno, but when I had it put on the highway, CEL on. Annoying.
Did pre and post dyno with intake and DP, no tune. The intake gives a wicked induction sound, might even grab the Eventuri CF ducts. Hope to have maps tomorrow. The shop is in the process of transitioning to a new location, hence temp appearance.
Now comes a point where you want to sell or trade. What happens if the new owner or the agency won't buy it unless it goes back to stock. Back to the shop. But now, you need to drop the tranny, remove the aftermarket stuff and replace with either new or used OE pipes. Figure that will be about 4 hours labor at $100, plus the cost of OE pipes... Just found a used set for $1,000. Now you're up to, what? $1,400 to get it back to stock?
Total: $2,600 for 5HP............. Seriously?
there is no agency who will turn down a trade if you’re ready to move forward with a vehicle they have over catted DP’s. If you’re private selling and decide to advertise that you have catted DP’s then you sell as is and someone will bite
Now comes a point where you want to sell or trade. What happens if the new owner or the agency won't buy it unless it goes back to stock. Back to the shop. But now, you need to drop the tranny, remove the aftermarket stuff and replace with either new or used OE pipes. Figure that will be about 4 hours labor at $100, plus the cost of OE pipes... Just found a used set for $1,000. Now you're up to, what? $1,400 to get it back to stock?
Total: $2,600 for 5HP............. Seriously?
The reason for the dyno was not to try to see how much power I gained, but just curiosity to see what happened when I did both DP and intake. Also, it was easy because the same shop that did the install did the pre and post dyno, and cut me a deal. If I was out to maximize power, I certainly would be doing it in conjunction with a tune, but I just wanted to make the car more fun.
They have not sent me the graphs from last night yet, but should have them soon. From memory, I gained about 20 HP and 20 Tq in midrange around 4-5K rpm, but decreased to about 10 near redline. Lower down the graphs were almost identical.
But, this is what it was for -
The reason for the dyno was not to try to see how much power I gained, but just curiosity to see what happened when I did both DP and intake. Also, it was easy because the same shop that did the install did the pre and post dyno, and cut me a deal. If I was out to maximize power, I certainly would be doing it in conjunction with a tune, but I just wanted to make the car more fun.
They have not sent me the graphs from last night yet, but should have them soon. From memory, I gained about 20 HP and 20 Tq in midrange around 4-5K rpm, but decreased to about 10 near redline. Lower down the graphs were almost identical.
But, this is what it was for -
https://youtu.be/sxqnZ-iLCoU
https://youtu.be/WsdNBhw_7dQ
What gear did they dyno in? Did the car build full boost down low?
Although I am still doing break in, I ran the car carefully few times in Sport+ mode with Renntech EVM (full open mode) and car is not as loud as I wanted it to be.
According to some other post, 2019+ models should be making more pop and crackle noise after few thousands miles, but not sure if exhaust volume is going to get any louder too.
If not, I will most likely get catted DP with O2 spacer and run it without tune.
I was considering Modalwork catted DP but Spazdoc’s post is making me look for other solution.
I did some research and found Shardul’s DP offering with Gesi cats might be good choice.
Unlike most catted DP, his has Gesi cats installed on further down the pipe where original secondary cats are placed.
Also, O2 bung location is moved to accommodate new cat location.
I think by having O2 bung moved down, there is going to be much more free space allowing easy install of O2 sensor with spacer.
Well, I am going to drive my car for few thousands more miles to see if my exhaust wakes up. Hopefully, it will.
Although I am still doing break in, I ran the car carefully few times in Sport+ mode with Renntech EVM (full open mode) and car is not as loud as I wanted it to be.
According to some other post, 2019+ models should be making more pop and crackle noise after few thousands miles, but not sure if exhaust volume is going to get any louder too.
If not, I will most likely get catted DP with O2 spacer and run it without tune.
I was considering Modalwork catted DP but Spazdoc’s post is making me look for other solution.
I did some research and found Shardul’s DP offering with Gesi cats might be good choice.
Unlike most catted DP, his has Gesi cats installed on further down the pipe where original secondary cats are placed.
Also, O2 bung location is moved to accommodate new cat location.
I think by having O2 bung moved down, there is going to be much more free space allowing easy install of O2 sensor with spacer.
Well, I am going to drive my car for few thousands more miles to see if my exhaust wakes up. Hopefully, it will.
I don’t think this is available to purchase from website but you can PM shardul directly for inquiry and purchase.
https://mbworld.org/forums/members/84044-shardul.html
Other donwpipe that has similar setup is IPE downpipe. But not sure if you can purchase this one anymore.
I don’t think this is available to purchase from website but you can PM shardul directly for inquiry and purchase.
https://mbworld.org/forums/members/84044-shardul.html
Other donwpipe that has similar setup is IPE downpipe. But not sure if you can purchase this one anymore.
But having high flow cat in secondary cat location instead primary will most likely let you pass California smog visual inspection... but that’s something I only have to worry after 8 years.
I did some research and found Shardul’s DP offering with Gesi cats might be good choice.
Unlike most catted DP, his has Gesi cats installed on further down the pipe where original secondary cats are placed.
As the issue is the hard coolant line, I doubt the location changed significantly from pre-FL to FL, especially since there is limited space as it is for the O2 sensor. I suspect that it is more likely that there is variation in the placement of the sensor bung on the DP. As there is heat shielding, I was hesitant to just weld and cut into the DP, they there is a potential solution.
Modal wasted no time contacting the other catted DP owners on their situation, and so I hope that the figure out an option to relocate or reposition the bung enough to allow the spacer to work. They can also just say that it is my own bad luck (either changed coolant line location of bad bung placement), as the position of the bung allows for placement of the stock O2 sensor. This would be a bad argument, since the entire reason why a C63 owner goes to the trouble of paying extra for catted DP and then sourcing separate spacers is to avoid CEL, pass emissions, without the ramifications of doing a tune (a simple O2 sensor delete will not pass emissions). It took only a couple days for another owner to already jump in say that they will go with a different manufacturer, and it is likely not the last. Furthermore, many manufacturers have to have a FL update, if this is the case.
I have faith that Modal will try to figure it out, and I have confidence in my shop with working with me if we need to swap things out - if anyone is in Chicago area, make sure to check out Performance Eurowerks.
I get more pops when driven hard for sure. I have no added burble on my tune at all. Im sure it would be enough for some ppl and not enough for those that are really into it. Im probably going to get an addl file from weistec with level 1 burble added. They have 0-1-2-3 level of burble. Currently I get pops on like maybe every 2nd to 4th lift off pedal when over 3-4k rpm. Upshifts are mean. In park i get pops about same every 2-4 good rev ups.
Id like to have just a tiny bit more, which is why gonna try a lvl 1 burble. Itd be great if could have them map burble to just S, S+, or Race so could have it when i wanted and normal when I dont. I know too much burble is bad for longevity of turbos etc.
I know this is catless but maybe help some of you.
I get more pops when driven hard for sure. I have no added burble on my tune at all. Im sure it would be enough for some ppl and not enough for those that are really into it. Im probably going to get an addl file from weistec with level 1 burble added. They have 0-1-2-3 level of burble. Currently I get pops on like maybe every 2nd to 4th lift off pedal when over 3-4k rpm. Upshifts are mean. In park i get pops about same every 2-4 good rev ups.
Id like to have just a tiny bit more, which is why gonna try a lvl 1 burble. Itd be great if could have them map burble to just S, S+, or Race so could have it when i wanted and normal when I dont. I know too much burble is bad for longevity of turbos etc.
I know this is catless but maybe help some of you.









