which belt and pulley? Is it something to fix immediately or can i drive for a few days until i can bring it to Mercedes

Yes you can still drive it for a few days no problems.

Hello, my car has now almost 130 tkm, engine little bit noisier (still 0w40 every 10000km), noise seems still normal to me(car running strong)

****Listened to it. Sounds strong and smooth. Congrats on the mileage.

this “tick tick tick” noise on the right is normal?

my car have it, and when you press gas the noise dessapear

Auto Reply

Canister (EVAP Valve)

A0014764432 64

Hey I need help also about this what is the issue specifically i got two codes P002177&P001177 and i just focused on the sound on the right side as in the video any help to what to change

Hey guys pls lmk if this is normal im losing my mind 😭

Mine does the same thing, same year also

Mine did that and it was that valve at the front of the car that collects exhaust fumes replaced it and no more ticking.

You're fine that's just your purge valves. They're cheap

Hello guys,

sorry to ask as well, but just like everybody i'm being paranoid and worried about the noise.
It's definitely not the "regular rattle noise."
I hope it's the purge valves but i'm afraid it's the guides. it's quite high-pitched and located on the right side of the engine.
Noise happens only when engine is cold.

Can someone let me know what he thinks ?
C 63 W205 with 60k miles.

I really appreciate your thoughts on this one.

do you have purge valve part number please?

Watched it and it's your belt/​​​pulleys 100% any chirping that's high pitched and squeaky like that which is more audible near your wheel and fender area is always the belt and pulleys.

Get them changed or use a bit of dielectric grease on the belt to silence them until you get them fixed.

weird, my accessory belts have just been changed.
Will investigate further.

anyway
Thanks for your feedback Jimmy, really do appreciate it.

Any time man 🤙

If you change belt but not the pulleys the sound will come back within a week. I've done the same thing in the past and kept getting the squeaks on start up after the belts were done. Got so fed up I had all the pulleys changed, added a dab of dielectric grease to the belt and never heard it squeak for 2 years.

These cars will drive you nuts

hey there, first post on MBworld. Apologize if I’m doing this wrong. I just wanted to reach out and see if I am encountering the same issue. Edit: I also notice in the video you shared, the sound is deeper than what I’m experiencing, just paranoid lol

hi there, please could you send me these videos

@JimmyC63S my car was dropped off at the dealer today... I think I have the timing chain guide issue discussed in this thread. Mine is coming from the passenger side (Bank 1). Noise starts after about 30 seconds, only on cold start, and goes away after 3-5 minutes. Here's a video of it: My car has an extended warranty so I'm hoping it's covered. Is there any kind of documentation or TSB from Mercedes that I can give to the dealer to support my claim? Thank you for any help you can provide.

@Jimmy_c63s Second day at the dealer, no updates from them yet. Really hoping someone has a "star bulletin", aka a TSB, or some other supporting documentation for this issue that I can use if they call me with the "it's normal" response.

Listened to your video a few times with headphones and at times it sounds like it's the chain guides yet it's barely audible it's hard to distinguish. No TSB on it.

Got a video of it outside the garage? A lot of sound reverb going on, I'll confirm it if I can hear it.

@Jimmy_c63s I don't have a video outside the garage. It's even harder to hear when it's outside. But when I'm parked near a wall or by a concrete curb is when I can hear it the most because of the reverb off the hard surface. The noise is almost completely isolated to the passenger side. Also, I used a Mechanics Stethoscope and when I put the end on the front of the passenger side timing cover the noise is the loudest.

Got my car back from the dealer and I have good and bad news. The good news is that it is more of a "customer satisfaction" issue due to the noise, than a critical repair. They advised there is no harm or risk in driving it.

I also obtained the "TSB" for this issue for anyone's reference... LI05.10-P-068624. I attached the PDF to this post. The TSB only says to replace the secondary chain drive tensioning rail; part numbers: A 177 050 43 01 and A 177 050 44 01. The parts are only about $20 each.

The bad news is that it is a timing-cover-off job to get to those parts... Meaning front bumper and radiator pack removal, or engine removal.

The even worse news for me is that the dealer I used flat refused to work on my car, even though I have an extended warranty purchased from them (third party company, not MB) because I have a Zac Motorsport intake and ModalWorks downpipes and Zac cat-back exhaust. They could not explain what those things have to do with the timing chain guides though. So I might look for another shop that is more Performance-friendly and is also willing to work with the warranty company I have.

Hope this helps others.

This is great work my friend. So essentially it's just a noise due to the wear of the guides but doesn't affect the car 👍

If anyone has had an Audi or Golf GTI from the late 2000's will remember the engines would develop a clacking sound from the chain/guides which never affected the longevity but made the car sound like a diesel. Sounds like the same thing (sort of).

Your findings have put a lot of minds to ease now.

@Jimmy_c63s I was able to get mine fixed under aftermarket warranty. Indy shop charged ~$7100 to do the job, so I definitely wouldn't recommend it for anyone who doesn't have a warranty.

I asked for one of the old secondary chain guides back so I can show everyone that it is just an annoying sound and you don't have to be worried about your timing chain, or timing components harming your engine. and how it rattles. The noise is caused by the plastic guide being loose against the metal arm. Also, the plastic pad that the tensioner pushes on can also rattle. The shop told me the new tensioner arm is redesigned to be one piece that includes the arm itself and where the chain rides.

I hope this puts some people's minds at ease. Your car will be fine if it has this noise. But, I am glad I was able to get mine fixed, because it sure would be hard to explain if / when I sell it.