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The manual doesn't mention anything about a break in service, but the MBUSA website does show a 2k mile break in service, should I be doing this on my CLE 53?
Where does the website show a 2k mile service for the CLE 53? The 63 models used to have a 2k mile service to replace the fluid in the rear locking differential. The 53 just has a regular open differential and AMG did away with the 2k miles service for the locking differential in 2019. They revised friction materials or something and a break in service is no longer necessary for the locking differential. Nothing else ever needed a break in service. BMW M models historically were using break-in engine oil that needed to be replaced after the break in. Don't know if they still do, but AMG doesn't use break in oil in any of their engines.
Where does the website show a 2k mile service for the CLE 53? The 63 models used to have a 2k mile service to replace the fluid in the rear locking differential. The 53 just has a regular open differential and AMG did away with the 2k miles service for the locking differential in 2019. They revised friction materials or something and a break in service is no longer necessary for the locking differential. Nothing else ever needed a break in service. BMW M models historically were using break-in engine oil that needed to be replaced after the break in. Don't know if they still do, but AMG doesn't use break in oil in any of their engines.
Thank you so much for speedy response. I saw it here on the MBUSA website but not to a specific vehicle.
Ah, that's outdated language, but there might still be some very low mileage specimen out there that haven't had their older diffs serviced after break-in. So this part only applies to select models.
Ah, that's outdated language, but there might still be some very low mileage specimen out there that haven't had their older diffs serviced after break-in. So this part only applies to select models.
Ok understood, I’ll just do oil change around the 5k miles, probably will be a long time before I get there since I don’t drive the car a lot. If I ignore timely service would this be okay or should I do the service even though I haven’t reached certain miles but time has? Thanks a lot for your help.
I only put 600 miles on the car within 5 months and that’s me trying since I just want to be over 1k.
I have a CLE 53 as well...great car..I am really enjoying it. I watched a video done by a guy named Lake and goes by the oil guy. On a new car he recomends an oil change between 500-1000, then at 2500 and then again at 5000. After that every 5000. I did 500 and then 2000. Will do 5000 when I get there.
Ok understood, I’ll just do oil change around the 5k miles, probably will be a long time before I get there since I don’t drive the car a lot. If I ignore timely service would this be okay or should I do the service even though I haven’t reached certain miles but time has? Thanks a lot for your help.
I only put 600 miles on the car within 5 months and that’s me trying since I just want to be over 1k.
Service is due every 12 months or 10k miles, whichever comes first. Low mileage cars need to be serviced every 12 months. The car will tell you in the instrument cluster when it's due for service. As has been said many times, oil degrades over time, whether you drive the car or not. It's almost more important to get the oil changed on low milage cars, because short distance driving and not running the engine frequently can accumulate moisture and fuel in the oil and dry out the seals. Moisture and fuel in the oil normally evaporates when you drive long enough and get the oil properly hot, but if you only drove 600 miles in 5 months I'm assuming that's a lot of short distance driving where the engine barely reaches proper operating temperature. That's the worst kind of driving you can do for a modern combustion engine, so the last thing you wanna do is delay the 12 months service. Another item is brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture over time, even in a closed system as no system is 100% airtight, so a brake fluid flush is part of every B service. That ends up being every 2 years with low milage cars, which is the general recommendation for flushing the brake fluid. Or the spark plugs are due after 5 years or 50k miles, whichever comes first. Again, even if you don't drive the car, the plastic on the spark plugs degrades and you don't want a piece of insulator crack and fall into the combustion chamber due to the age of the spark plug. If that happens, you are looking at getting a new engine. FWIW, I drive my C63 only about 4000 miles per year, so I service it every 12 months as is recommended.
BTW, the app also tells you way in advance when it's due for service based on your actual driving. Initially it may bounce back and forward between mileage and time, but eventually it will settle on one based on your average daily mileage. Mine has already figured out that I'm due for service next January and gives me the exact date.
Was there not a sticker on the top left corner of your windshield with info on break in? I think mine said 1500kms at low RPMs, I'll have to double check. I put 5000 miles on my CLE 53 over 12 months. Just did an oil change last weekend and will do the other fluids at the 2 year mark. I work from home so the car isn't used much on week days.
I'm a big fan of Lake, and will follow his suggestion on changing oil frequently during engine break-in. My first oil change at 1,500 miles indicated high wear metals at 27.1 ppm per 1000K miles and high silicon at 21 ppm, both indicative of new engine break-in. I keep my vehicles a long time, and want to give my CLE crankcase oil without wear metals and impurities like silicon. I expect wear metals to be high for an additional one or two oil changes, but I want to get them out of my engine ASAP to avoid preventable wear.
I am also using Mobil 1 ESP X2 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20, which is Mercedes approved oil for my engine. I found the initial crankcase oil (presumably MB OEM) to result in a little bit of pre-ignition, but none at all with the Mobil 1. Oil analysis indicates OEM oil has ~1500 ppm calcium, which is high and the likely cause of my pre-ignition; Mobil 1 calcium should be around 800 ppm calcium.
After break-in, my regular oil change interval will be no more than 5K miles. As far as I'm concerned, no such thing as long service intervals with turbo cars.
Was there not a sticker on the top left corner of your windshield with info on break in? I think mine said 1500kms at low RPMs, I'll have to double check. I put 5000 miles on my CLE 53 over 12 months. Just did an oil change last weekend and will do the other fluids at the 2 year mark. I work from home so the car isn't used much on week days.
Yeah it does have that sticker and its for the 1000 mile break in but that sticker doesn't mention anything about a break in service. Some people are recommending a break in service right after the 1000 mile drive.
I'm a big fan of Lake, and will follow his suggestion on changing oil frequently during engine break-in. My first oil change at 1,500 miles indicated high wear metals at 27.1 ppm per 1000K miles and high silicon at 21 ppm, both indicative of new engine break-in. I keep my vehicles a long time, and want to give my CLE crankcase oil without wear metals and impurities like silicon. I expect wear metals to be high for an additional one or two oil changes, but I want to get them out of my engine ASAP to avoid preventable wear.
I am also using Mobil 1 ESP X2 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20, which is Mercedes approved oil for my engine. I found the initial crankcase oil (presumably MB OEM) to result in a little bit of pre-ignition, but none at all with the Mobil 1. Oil analysis indicates OEM oil has ~1500 ppm calcium, which is high and the likely cause of my pre-ignition; Mobil 1 calcium should be around 800 ppm calcium.
After break-in, my regular oil change interval will be no more than 5K miles. As far as I'm concerned, no such thing as long service intervals with turbo cars.
I'll do my oil soon in another 300 miles once I reach 1k. I've decided to change my own oil and will probably just get the MB oil for this car. I looked under the car for lifting points and figured I need some sort of jack/lift pads.
I ordered one of the PowerFlex Mercedes Jack Pads to try and see if it fits. I also found a pottential other option, some genuine mercedes pads, Ill the genuine red ones if the PowerFlex one doesnt fit but I think it should.
'08 BMW 335i Coupe '15 E400 Sedan '25 CLE 53 Coupe
Researched the engine oil types and sources awhile back. It seems that the bulk oil used by stateside MBZ dealerships is Shell Mobil 1 (made here in Texas by ExxonMobil) while both the OEM as delivered and bottled MBZ branded oil sold here are made by FUCHS Lubricants in Germany. While both refineries meet the identical MB 229.71/72 MBZ specifications, each uses their own base stocks and additive packages as follows:
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Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 (US bulk/dealer oil): ExxonMobil’s advanced full-synthetic formulation, often based on a high-quality GTL (gas-to-liquid, Group III+) + PAO blend. It’s engineered in North American plants for global distribution and carries MB-Approval 229.71 (and meets related specs like VW 508/509 00, Porsche C20). It excels in cleanliness, wear protection, and low-temperature flow.
Mercedes-Benz Genuine bottled 0W-20 (and European factory-fill): Produced by FUCHS (confirmed on packaging and in FUCHS’ own announcements). It uses FUCHS’ proprietary TITAN GT1 FLEX or similar XTL-technology base stocks and additive system. This is the oil (or a very close variant) that was filled at the Bremen plant when your German-built CLE53 rolled off the line. It is approved for both 229.71 and 229.72 (the latter being the slightly more oxidation-resistant, fuel-economy-optimized variant Mercedes now prefers for lowest consumption).
Last edited by J.Raymond; May 10, 2026 at 04:01 PM.
Are you getting any low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) with the OEM oil? That, and Mobil 1's wide availability was the primary reason for my change.
My car has only 650 miles so I’m not even sure what low speed pre ignition means.
The ramp is cool I may get on eventually, my dad has a shop lift and that’s what I need the pads, the Planger ones you have on Amazon do they fit your CLE53?
Just to be clear, I have the CLE 300 which comes with the M254 four cylinder. But, my comments on this thread should apply to both - frequent oil changes before 10K.
Not sure what is meant by "Shell Mobil 1", but if stateside MB uses Mobil 1, that's good to hear.
Regarding pre-ignition, the OEM oil was the likely culprit due to high calcium (1487ppm); I expect the Mobil 1 oil to be closer to 800ppm, plus or minus 100. Since going to Mobil 1, no LSPI.
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