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I have CLK 200 1998model, It has all indications that battery is working. headlights, radio works. When the ignition is turned to the last position the car simply "click". Just one time click.
'00 CLK 320 vert (bordeuax) AMG kit, 18" Chrome AMG's, -Studs winter tire on Chrome 17's, Gucci int.
Originally Posted by SaintMiles
First off, I have been driving a 99 CLK for four years now
Tires.
I bought some after market Benz McClaren style wheels, 8.5in. Front, 9.5in. Rear. From velocity motoring. Not sure why I have not run across this company in this forum. Maybe you thought they were no good cause they weren't carllsen or whatever. Great wheels for almost real cheap. Brand new with tires mounted, balanced, and shipped for 1300. I'll post a photo. They have been more resilient than any other nice rims I've ever had. Still Straight and no wobbles or vibrations after 3 years. Oh, and they are 18's.(It's Not a Race Car)
Biggest Size tires to fit this car(not lowered, why bother, get a different car, cause you still got Atoumatic):
FILLS UP the Wheel Well the most and I don't have any rubbing:
FRONT--255/35/18 8.5in. wheel
REAR--275/35/18 9.5in. wheel
_________________________________________________
I've got more, but it's late.
Late.
Tell us more man. im at 150k and in the dark about what i need to be flushing servicing and checking for wear ive done everything you said and some. also i have a ? about the wheels you installed 255/40/n 225 18 in the front with no mods>? must of been perfect offsets can you tell us that et on the mclaren type wheels. im trying to figure out if i can pull off a 225-40-18 in the front with 265-35-18 rear im thinking about it know and 235/40 is prob. better but i have a tire with good tread i wanted to use. im really interested in the mainentance at 120k 140k 150k 200k etc if you have ideas or suggestions of where to look let us know. its 2016 and the w208 all should all be at this mileage i suspect
'00 CLK 320 vert (bordeuax) AMG kit, 18" Chrome AMG's, -Studs winter tire on Chrome 17's, Gucci int.
Originally Posted by tradin1
is there a how to for removing the headlight assembly?
you have to take off the front bumper then its super easy three bolts staring at you. the bumper is more like 8-10 bolts. with the splash shield coming off first. (four bolts) then behind the bumper in the wheel well. its 8mm or 10mm bolt and then the four 8mm or maybe 7mm holding the front of the bumper around the headlights. and 2 13mm bolts holding the inside of the front of the bumper inside the radiadtor part but on the outside. unplug the fog lights and side markers you should put the bumper on a box or something to hold up as it will want to fall to the ground but your going to need to un plug THE LITTLE fog lights. then when its detacted you can get the headlights out. you will need pics and detailed instructions to get it done in the 30 min it takes the first time. so dont go out to do it with just this info. there are some additionals bolts on the side under the bumper that are hard to explain one on each side, but not too bad. (hint check youtube)
Last edited by 00w208vert; Oct 21, 2016 at 08:53 AM.
It always bothered my a bit that for such a nice and well thought out car, the engineers decided not to include a light under the hood. I suppose they figure if you're spending that kind of money on a car you'll have a light in your shop, but what about topping off fluids, or changing a fuse on the road?
Anyway, I had some extra 12v LED lights in my parts bin, and figured I'd make my own solution. I must say it was pretty simple, and although it won't be mistaken for an OEM system, I am satisfied. Here's what I did:
- Glued two LED panels to the underside of the hood (relatively close to the hinge areas to minimize the heat exposure they'll experience). I use a flexible silicon glue which has turned out to be very useful for a number of projects I've been working on lately.
- Ran wiring to the battery terminals in the engine bay behind the heat insulation
- Installed a single pole single throw, normally open switch onto the cover of the (+) terminal (forward of the fuse box).
- Installed a "bumper" made of sheet metal onto the hood (again with silicon glue) positioned to depress the switch when the hood is closed.
All in all, about ~1 hr of my time, and maybe $15 in materials for a very helpful upgrade!
01' CLK 320 cabriolet Air Filter change instructions?
Pardon if I miss it somewhere in the thread but can someone point me to a user friendly instruction for changing my engine air filter on the 2001 CLK 320 please?
Last edited by Hk91308; May 18, 2017 at 05:17 PM.
Reason: Edited to clarify : engine air filter info requested
[QUOTE=shadenfroh;7152662]Since you don't specify, here's how to change the engine air filter. It's located in a big black box in the front right corner of the engine bay.
Unhook the cooler line on the side of the box.
Undo all the clips. One of them doesn't look like the others.
Like everything else on these cars, if it doesn't come off easily - you've missed a clip.
Open the box carefully. You don't want crap falling off the filter. Observe how the filter is placed and take it out.
Place new filter in until you're completely satisfied with the fit.
Don't forget all the clips and the cooler line.
Check all the hooks again if you're forgetful like me
Thanks so much, I should have been clearer - it's engine air filter (edited my post)
When you undo the clips, to remove the upper section of the air filter box, the clips should swivel down and remain attached to the lower box section.
However, with age, plastic becomes brittle. What frequently happens, is the swivel mechanism breaks and the clip(s) will fall.
If this occurs, don't panic
The only purpose of the swivel is to keep each clip from falling and/or to maintain the correct position to refasten each clip back onto the upper box section.
You can fish out the fallen clip and reuse it. You'll need use both hands, one to position (e.g. catch) onto the lower box shoulder (e.g. only the weak swivel mechanism broke) and the other to refasten the other end of the clip to the upper box section.
BTW......I use 2 hands when I unfasten the clips as well (e.g. to prevent any clips from dropping and having to find).
Hi we took the driver side door of my w208 Mercedes clk convertible as the indicator stopped working in the wing mirror when we took the door card of the 2 black wires for the indicator where just hanging there I have looked everywhere looking for the other two ends it’s swpewqtwd it broke away from and can’t fins them anywhere someone said they might plug into the door module but there’s no spare gap they have come out of and the wires are now so short they wouldn’t reach so my question is where do the two black wires from the drivers side wing mirror indicator attach to please also my window keeps coming of the runner was told I’m missing a black bit of rubber the window sits in??? Any help would be great any pics of the wing mirror indicator wiring would also be great thanks in advance
Hi we took the driver side door of my w208 Mercedes clk convertible as the indicator stopped working in the wing mirror when we took the door card of the 2 black wires for the indicator where just hanging there I have looked everywhere looking for the other two ends it’s seperated it broke away from and can’t fins them anywhere someone said they might plug into the door module but there’s no spare gap they have come out of and the wires are now so short they wouldn’t reach so my question is where do the two black wires from the drivers side wing mirror indicator attach to please also my window keeps coming of the runner was told I’m missing a black bit of rubber the window sits in??? Any help would be great any pics of the wing mirror indicator wiring would also be great thanks in advance
I'm a newby with a 2000 CLK 320 cab I've been driving and playing with for the last year and a half. One of the things I've done is to drain and flush the transmission. This is a model without a drain plug on the torque converter and I notice that this thread has only addressed how to flush using the drain. My understanding is that the torque converter drain was only available on model years up through 1999. Here goes post #1 for me:
Parts needed:
1 ea. Transmission filter kit.
13 liters transmission fluid - I use Meyle ATF III-H at approx. $9/liter from a local parts house (Stealership wanted over $20/liter- spec is the same).
Tools needed:
Car jack and four jackstands (or car lift).
Transmission dipstick
Calibrated receptical holding at least 3 liters, calibrated at 3 liters.
Allen wrenches (sockets) for drain plug and pan removal.
Open end wrenches for disconnecting trans fluid cooling lines.
Procedure:
1). Jack up the car and place jack stands securely under four corners.
2). Drain the fluid from the pan - about 3 liters.
3). Remove the pan using appropriate allen sockets. My car had not had the fluid changed since new and when I attempted this at 113K miles, some of the screws were quite stubborn. For the stubborn ones, give the screw head a sharp tap with a hammer on the end of the extension with allen wrench inserted. When all bolts are removed, keep in mind there is still approx. 0.5 liters of fluid still in the pan.
4). Remove pan and rubber gasket and drain remaining fluid. Inspect pan and magnet for any metal particles. Metal should be a fine dust without chunks. The less, the better. Wipe clean the inside of the pan and remove all metal and other particulates with a clean cloth.
5). Remove and replace filter assembly with new filter.
6). Inspect and clean transmission surface where gasket is to fit - both on the pan and the transmission. There should be no glue or silicone or other applied gasket material. If yours is a "virgin," there will only be the rubber gasket with no evidence of goop. Get it back to "virgin" status.
7). Replace the pan paying attention to alignment of the new gasket. Evenly tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern and toque bolts in two stages to 10 ft.-pounds (please correct me if the torque is wrong here).
8). Add approx. 5 liters of fresh trans fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.
Note: At this point, only the pan fluid has been replaced. To flush the fluid in the torque converter and replace it with fresh fluid, you will be using the pump in the transmission (most of an automatic transmission is really just a hydraulic fluid pump). The factory service manual calls for disconnecting the fluid pipe on the right side of the transmission and then collecting the fluid from a hose connected to the banjo bolt. The problem is that the bolt is a bear to get a wrench onto and the connection requires a special M-B tool. Too much hassle. Instead, disconnect the transmission fluid transfer pipe/hose at the lower right-hand side of the transmission cooler (radiator). A whole lot easier to get to and you can squirt right into the calibrated recepticle - no hose required. To continue:
9). Disconnect transmission fluid tube at the transmission cooler - catch fluid drained in calibrated receptical.
10). Have your helper (yes, this is a two-man job) start the car in park and let it idle until fluid level in the calibrated recepticle reaches 3.0 liters. Shut off engine. Hook Fluid line back up to trans cooler (finger-tight is OK - this is temporary).
11). Add three liters of fresh fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.
12). Repeat items 9-11 two more times.
13). When finished flushing, tighten fluid cooler line to appropriate torque. Start engine and check for leaks. Top off fluid level according to owner's manual. Note: In my case, the trans was overfilled at this point and I had to drain off a liter - small price to pay. Next time I will probably only add 4 liters at the beginning (step 8, above). The 5 liter number came from the service manual. YAMMV
I hope this fills a void in the how-to section. My guess is that it will be applicable to other models without a torque converter drain plug. This cost me $132 and a couple of beers (for my helper). The stealership wanted almost $200 just for the fluid and another $50 for the filter kit and 1.4 hours labor at $120/hr for a total of $418.
M-B started out saying that the fluid never needed to be replaced. That has since been rethought such that the now recommended interval is 30K miles. That interval matches a number of other vehicles I run and it makes sense to me.
If you are thinking about having the local mechanic hook up the transmission flushing machine and flushing without changing the filter and cleaning out the pan, think about taking a shower and then putting on the same underwear - you wouldn't want your girfriend to do it. Drop the pan and change the filter every time.
This may be too much to ask but do you have any photos or videos on locating transmission fluid transfer pipe/hose at the lower right-hand side of the transmission cooler? Thank you!
I'm a newby with a 2000 CLK 320 cab I've been driving and playing with for the last year and a half. One of the things I've done is to drain and flush the transmission. This is a model without a drain plug on the torque converter and I notice that this thread has only addressed how to flush using the drain. My understanding is that the torque converter drain was only available on model years up through 1999. Here goes post #1 for me:
Parts needed:
1 ea. Transmission filter kit.
13 liters transmission fluid - I use Meyle ATF III-H at approx. $9/liter from a local parts house (Stealership wanted over $20/liter- spec is the same).
Tools needed:
Car jack and four jackstands (or car lift).
Transmission dipstick
Calibrated receptical holding at least 3 liters, calibrated at 3 liters.
Allen wrenches (sockets) for drain plug and pan removal.
Open end wrenches for disconnecting trans fluid cooling lines.
Procedure:
1). Jack up the car and place jack stands securely under four corners.
2). Drain the fluid from the pan - about 3 liters.
3). Remove the pan using appropriate allen sockets. My car had not had the fluid changed since new and when I attempted this at 113K miles, some of the screws were quite stubborn. For the stubborn ones, give the screw head a sharp tap with a hammer on the end of the extension with allen wrench inserted. When all bolts are removed, keep in mind there is still approx. 0.5 liters of fluid still in the pan.
4). Remove pan and rubber gasket and drain remaining fluid. Inspect pan and magnet for any metal particles. Metal should be a fine dust without chunks. The less, the better. Wipe clean the inside of the pan and remove all metal and other particulates with a clean cloth.
5). Remove and replace filter assembly with new filter.
6). Inspect and clean transmission surface where gasket is to fit - both on the pan and the transmission. There should be no glue or silicone or other applied gasket material. If yours is a "virgin," there will only be the rubber gasket with no evidence of goop. Get it back to "virgin" status.
7). Replace the pan paying attention to alignment of the new gasket. Evenly tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern and toque bolts in two stages to 10 ft.-pounds (please correct me if the torque is wrong here).
8). Add approx. 5 liters of fresh trans fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.
Note: At this point, only the pan fluid has been replaced. To flush the fluid in the torque converter and replace it with fresh fluid, you will be using the pump in the transmission (most of an automatic transmission is really just a hydraulic fluid pump). The factory service manual calls for disconnecting the fluid pipe on the right side of the transmission and then collecting the fluid from a hose connected to the banjo bolt. The problem is that the bolt is a bear to get a wrench onto and the connection requires a special M-B tool. Too much hassle. Instead, disconnect the transmission fluid transfer pipe/hose at the lower right-hand side of the transmission cooler (radiator). A whole lot easier to get to and you can squirt right into the calibrated recepticle - no hose required. To continue:
9). Disconnect transmission fluid tube at the transmission cooler - catch fluid drained in calibrated receptical.
10). Have your helper (yes, this is a two-man job) start the car in park and let it idle until fluid level in the calibrated recepticle reaches 3.0 liters. Shut off engine. Hook Fluid line back up to trans cooler (finger-tight is OK - this is temporary).
11). Add three liters of fresh fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.
12). Repeat items 9-11 two more times.
13). When finished flushing, tighten fluid cooler line to appropriate torque. Start engine and check for leaks. Top off fluid level according to owner's manual. Note: In my case, the trans was overfilled at this point and I had to drain off a liter - small price to pay. Next time I will probably only add 4 liters at the beginning (step 8, above). The 5 liter number came from the service manual. YAMMV
I hope this fills a void in the how-to section. My guess is that it will be applicable to other models without a torque converter drain plug. This cost me $132 and a couple of beers (for my helper). The stealership wanted almost $200 just for the fluid and another $50 for the filter kit and 1.4 hours labor at $120/hr for a total of $418.
M-B started out saying that the fluid never needed to be replaced. That has since been rethought such that the now recommended interval is 30K miles. That interval matches a number of other vehicles I run and it makes sense to me.
If you are thinking about having the local mechanic hook up the transmission flushing machine and flushing without changing the filter and cleaning out the pan, think about taking a shower and then putting on the same underwear - you wouldn't want your girfriend to do it. Drop the pan and change the filter every time.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
its 2016 and the w208 all should all be at this mileage i suspect
you will need pics and detailed instructions to get it done in the 30 min it takes the first time. so dont go out to do it with just this info. there are some additionals bolts on the side under the bumper that are hard to explain one on each side, but not too bad. (hint check youtube)
