The bulb that back lights between the speedo and tach appears to have burned out, got a malfunction warning on it as well. What am I up against to get a bulb swapped out on my 2k CLK 430? Anyone have part numbers handy??

Thanks!!

-Jeff



Oops, Sorry mods, did not realize this was a sticky, feel free to move if appropriate.

 

Hi Jeff

Have a look at this thread might help.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...nt-lights.html

 

I read through all of the posts but found nothing on it. I recently changed the oil/filter(s) on my 00 clk 430 but need some help reseting the message on the gauge cluster. Any help much appreciated, Thanks

 

Check YouTube... There should be a video up of how to do it.

 

I have found very good info on this web site. SO thanks to all. NOW my trouble is this. We have a CLK 430 ac was empty, charged it. now the head pressure soars~!~ the fans are not running (they do cycle on as usual with engine temp). OKAY LOL WERE DO I GO FROM HERE? please help

 

You'd get better responses in the w208 forum itself, posting your own thread.

 

okay thank I will try that

 

HI to reset your service light with car off turn ingition key around to pos 3 without starting the car press and hold the R button for about 5 second.

 

Need to replace my cabin (interior) temp sensor. I understand it is in the overhead by the dome light, but I was hoping for more info.

Thanks!

 

It may just need to be cleaned. Here's a link, If you can clean it, you can certainly replace it - if need be.

 

Has any one done any repairs on there AC, my converter won't come on.

Thanks,

 

I am in search of a link a pdf or something for the clk 1999 320. I cant find it anywhere and when I did its over $100. Help me please.....lol

 

Just swapped out my steering damper, pretty easy driveway job. Socket is 5/8, 2 bolts. I don't remember seeing any pics up here so here's a pic to help anyone who's thinking of doing the job. Cheers

 

Hi guys... has one experince this: when I turn on my car, a buzzing / rattling sound starts. It sounds like the ash tray is rattling. It also occurs when I turn the radio off!!!

This is weird, so if any one has an idea or clue... let me know!

Thanks, Joey

 

I need help with an O2 sensor job. Now I was wondering if the CLK 320 2001 has four or three O2 sensors and any tips on easy way to do the job. I plan to purchase the sensors brand new from online vendor. Vehicle has reached 112,500 miles and still going.

 

Only on idle right? Sounds like bad engine mounts.

 

Nope... turns out it is a stuck tape in the tape player, which won't open!

 

has anyone here replaced the hazard switch on the w208 dash? Mine is malfunctioning. Any tips on how to remove that wood panel without ripping it apart?

 

Hi, All:

I'm a newby with a 2000 CLK 320 cab I've been driving and playing with for the last year and a half. One of the things I've done is to drain and flush the transmission. This is a model without a drain plug on the torque converter and I notice that this thread has only addressed how to flush using the drain. My understanding is that the torque converter drain was only available on model years up through 1999. Here goes post #1 for me:

Parts needed:

1 ea. Transmission filter kit.

13 liters transmission fluid - I use Meyle ATF III-H at approx. $9/liter from a local parts house (Stealership wanted over $20/liter- spec is the same).

Tools needed:

Car jack and four jackstands (or car lift).

Transmission dipstick

Calibrated receptical holding at least 3 liters, calibrated at 3 liters.

Allen wrenches (sockets) for drain plug and pan removal.

Open end wrenches for disconnecting trans fluid cooling lines.

Procedure:

1). Jack up the car and place jack stands securely under four corners.

2). Drain the fluid from the pan - about 3 liters.

3). Remove the pan using appropriate allen sockets. My car had not had the fluid changed since new and when I attempted this at 113K miles, some of the screws were quite stubborn. For the stubborn ones, give the screw head a sharp tap with a hammer on the end of the extension with allen wrench inserted. When all bolts are removed, keep in mind there is still approx. 0.5 liters of fluid still in the pan.

4). Remove pan and rubber gasket and drain remaining fluid. Inspect pan and magnet for any metal particles. Metal should be a fine dust without chunks. The less, the better. Wipe clean the inside of the pan and remove all metal and other particulates with a clean cloth.

5). Remove and replace filter assembly with new filter.

6). Inspect and clean transmission surface where gasket is to fit - both on the pan and the transmission. There should be no glue or silicone or other applied gasket material. If yours is a "virgin," there will only be the rubber gasket with no evidence of goop. Get it back to "virgin" status.

7). Replace the pan paying attention to alignment of the new gasket. Evenly tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern and toque bolts in two stages to 10 ft.-pounds (please correct me if the torque is wrong here).

8). Add approx. 5 liters of fresh trans fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.

Note: At this point, only the pan fluid has been replaced. To flush the fluid in the torque converter and replace it with fresh fluid, you will be using the pump in the transmission (most of an automatic transmission is really just a hydraulic fluid pump). The factory service manual calls for disconnecting the fluid pipe on the right side of the transmission and then collecting the fluid from a hose connected to the banjo bolt. The problem is that the bolt is a bear to get a wrench onto and the connection requires a special M-B tool. Too much hassle. Instead, disconnect the transmission fluid transfer pipe/hose at the lower right-hand side of the transmission cooler (radiator). A whole lot easier to get to and you can squirt right into the calibrated recepticle - no hose required. To continue:

9). Disconnect transmission fluid tube at the transmission cooler - catch fluid drained in calibrated receptical.

10). Have your helper (yes, this is a two-man job) start the car in park and let it idle until fluid level in the calibrated recepticle reaches 3.0 liters. Shut off engine. Hook Fluid line back up to trans cooler (finger-tight is OK - this is temporary).

11). Add three liters of fresh fluid via the fill pipe in the engine bay.

12). Repeat items 9-11 two more times.

13). When finished flushing, tighten fluid cooler line to appropriate torque. Start engine and check for leaks. Top off fluid level according to owner's manual. Note: In my case, the trans was overfilled at this point and I had to drain off a liter - small price to pay. Next time I will probably only add 4 liters at the beginning (step 8, above). The 5 liter number came from the service manual. YAMMV

I hope this fills a void in the how-to section. My guess is that it will be applicable to other models without a torque converter drain plug. This cost me $132 and a couple of beers (for my helper). The stealership wanted almost $200 just for the fluid and another $50 for the filter kit and 1.4 hours labor at $120/hr for a total of $418.

M-B started out saying that the fluid never needed to be replaced. That has since been rethought such that the now recommended interval is 30K miles. That interval matches a number of other vehicles I run and it makes sense to me.

If you are thinking about having the local mechanic hook up the transmission flushing machine and flushing without changing the filter and cleaning out the pan, think about taking a shower and then putting on the same underwear - you wouldn't want your girfriend to do it. Drop the pan and change the filter every time.

 

Good news and update. First after reading many of the post i did have the engine mount replaced a few months back and it did not fix my rough idle issue. Granted I have read plenty of post where that was the case and vehicles were rid of the idle issue. In my case I also got new Spark plug wires and tested them as well as the coils packs and everything was good. I removed the EGR valve cleaned all the black gunk that was in it and also replaced a few of the little hoses for the intake and EGR system.

That still did not fix my rough idle at low RPM issue. Finally after nearly giving up I re-ready more post about maybe fuel injectors. So i had the injectors cleaned at the local Valvoline, then replaced the 12k mile old E3 spark plugs I was running with OEM bosch platnums. Then a miracle. the old CLK320 is running like a champ now with out missing a beat or with our having any CEL or Diagnostic codes. Mission accomplished!

I still want to replace the O2 sensors since vehicle just hit 113K. As preventive maint, to keep it going strong for years to come. Love this car it has been very reliable and classy.

 

w208 Fuse Diagram:

 

What did you torque the two bolts at?

 

Hello all, new owner of a 2001 Clk-430 Cabriolet, and one of the things i've been trying to do over the past few days is replace the H6W bulb on the driver side headlight.

When i went out to find the right bulb, the parts store clerk assured me this "similar looking bulb" was the right one... when it wasn't.

after putting it in, trying it out and knoticing the bulb was much brighter, i took the bulb out and brought it back. After having found the right bulb i put it in and it still won't work. I've checked the H6W to make sure it wasn't defective, and since its not the bulb, what can i do to fix my headlight?

 

Is the h6w the 64132? Do you get a lamp error?

 

it says:
4006 FLOSSER
H6W 12V 6W
E1 2G(OFMR

and yes i do get Lamp Error when ever I turn on the lights.