I have a 2000 CLK 230, and I notice that when accelerating at around 2-3000 rpm I get a vibration that seems to feel as though it comes from the front of the car and through the middle of the centre console, it almost feels like front wheel drive wheel spin. I have revved the engine in park (its and auto box) and there are no vibrations rattle noises or anything coming from the engine. Im starting to think it could be possible bushs, or simple tracking issues but not sure. Has anyone else had similar issues? Appreciate the help.

 

Yes, many.
Welcome to the club.
Could be:
Tires
Rims
Motor mounts
Rotors
Flexi-discs
Shocks
Tie rod ends
Ball joints
Lower Control Arms
...and the list goes on.
Search the forum.
There is an abundance of info/postings on this issue.

 

Hi Thanks for the reply and welcome, since driving the car a bit more I have noticed that the vibration comes at slow speed and only when I accelerate a bit harder then normal otherwise it is just a low vibration. Once above 40mph it stops and I can hear just a slight whine which I thought could be brakes or bearings.

Thanks for the help

 

Like Pancho said, I'd check the flex discs. They're normal wear parts and will cause the symptoms you're seeing.

 

Thanks for the reply guys, still have not had any time to investigate the problem further but just a bit more info on what is going on as it is really starting to worry me.

Basically as i pull away quite a large vibration which lasts for about 3-5seconds and only if i rev over 1500 rpm if i keep it under that the vibration is negligible, the vibration can be felt coming up through the centre console almost feels as is the gearbox is shaking itself to death and is accompanied by a slight knocking noise sounds as though something is shaking itself to pieces. Once into second gear it starts to vibrate again but not as violently as in 1st gear and also not for as long. Once I am into 3rd no more vibrations but now also at higher speeds a slight droning can be heard now almost as it bearings or brake discs are wearing/rubbing?

Starting to think I have been sold a dud!!

Thanks in advance for any info

 

If a flex disc falls apart, then you can destroy your transmission.
1. Stop driving the car.
2. Spend 15 minutes searching the forum for "flex disc".
3. Get under the vehicle with a good flashlight.
4. Examine front and rear disc for damage.
5. If you can turn a wrench, then replace the flex disc--it aint rocket science. I replaced my transmission flex disc about a week ago. Took about an hour. I think they are about $50 each at parts.com. It's a standard repair item on old or high mileage MB's. It's not exotic. If it breaks, then you risk wasting your transmission, which is exotic and expensive--way expensive.

 

If your discs are bad, may as well go the distance and replace the center support bearing while your in there. It's only in the $20 range and a slip fit so no need to press off. You will need a couple large sockets or such to drive it from the housing but it's not bad. Make sure you mark the driveshaft halfs before you separate. It is a balanced assembly and the splines need to line up.

 

Thanks alot guys for you help. Yeah I stopped driving it last week, I'll try and get under the car tomorrow.

Really appreciate your help

 

i have a pulsating vibration that i feel at idle. clk 320. i already replaced the motor and transmission mounts. can anyone tell me where these flex disks are located so i can look at them, not sure what else to look at thanks, Lorenz

 

The flex discs are on the drive shaft (propeller shaft). They are like a rubber biscuit, designed to dampen vibration. One is at the transmission end. The other is at the rear differential end. At the transmission end, the transmission flange is bolted to one side of the disc, and the drive shaft flange is bolted to the other side of the disc. Similar for the differential end. The flex disc is made of a black rubber compound, and is about 6-8 inches in diameter, and about 1 inch thick, with 8 bolt holes, each hole having a steal bushing. You can examine the flex disc with a flash light from under the vehicle. The transmission should be in neutral so that the drive shaft can be rotated. The disc at the differential is readily visible. The disc at the transmission is behind the cross brace for the rear motor mount (transmission mount). Put the light on the disc, and rotate the drive shaft, examining the edge of the disc, and both flat sides of the disc for cracks or tears.

If you are at idle, then your drive shaft is not turning, so your flex disc would not be the source of vibration at idle. If you have an engine surge at idle on a 4.3 liter engine, then verify that a vacuum line near the drivers side of the MAF has not become disconnected.

I replaced the flex disc at the transmission end about 1 month ago. Vehicle has 140K miles, and was driven in Boston salt slush for 8 years, and I accelerate hard (floor it) whenever I get a chance. The flex disc I removed looked like it was new. No cracks, no tears, no blemishes. Seemed pointless to have replaced it. The visual inspection of the rear disc showed it to be in a similar pristine condition, so I left it in place. I remain the proud owner of one new flex disc.

 

Pancho, thanks for taking the time for replay. Seems what ur describing to me is what takes the place of the universal joints on our old chevys. MY vibration is at idle as i stated. Its is a low and slow up and down vibration. Hardly noticable but there. I brought it to the dealer to check my trans oil and they noticed it to, but they had to roll up the windows and listen carefully. He said its so faint to not worry about. IM a perfectionist so i didnt like him telling me not to worry about it even tho he may be right. I did check for a vacumm line off but i havent found anything. Thanks

 

Hi All,

Well the car went in yesterday and I am picking it up this afternoon if it is all done on time. No I have not driven it yet so until I do I will not know for sure if the vibration has gone, but they work that has been carried out is replace the prop shaft coupling and the centre bearing. According to the MB mechanic the coupling was almost hanging off so was an obvious cause of any vibration and the centre bearing is being replaced because of the excessive vibration causing that to be shredded also. I do have a few other niggles on the car, brake discs and wheel bearing but nothing major to cause the vibration.

Before carrying out the work I had a full work up of the car to check for any other problems and I was told the flex discs, tranny and engine mounts were fine. So in his mind the only cause of the vibration was the prop shaft coupling.

When I finally pick up the car I will post a report on how its driving and also post a pic of the part list that have been replaced.

Hope this helps in some way.

Matt

 

I am curious. Let us know if it fixed the problem, and what the dealer charged you for the center mount job. Thanks

 

Hey Pancho... if you can do the flex disc's, the center bearing is cake. The bearing is a slip fit on the shaft and can easily be driven from the mount with a couple large sockets and a hammer. The center mount is just 2 bolts to the car.

 

Hi Pancho,

The problem has been fixed and the car is now driving like a real Merc should. I had the Prop Shaft coupling (£128.88) Centre Bearing (£52.80) Bearing (£38.84) and I also asked them to top up the Auto tranny fluid (£16.99) and after all taxes was a total of £519.74 tad on the step side but not too bad all in all as I was unsure of doing it myself and plus with the top job that they produced I didn't mind spending the extra cash.

 

That's good go know. Thanks

 

It's good that the problem was actually fixed. Vibration issues can become endless nags, never going away, and requiring more and more $. I'm glad for you.