CLKINDIVIDUAL

Is there a certain extent/degree I should turn the screws back in?

tw2

For the coil packs? I do them as tight as I can with my fingers only using a torx bit and then tweak with a spanner. You don't want to over-tighten them.

CLKINDIVIDUAL

For the valve cover

Timewarpone

You should use a torque wrench. Look back in this thread for the specs.

tw2

+1, the answer is on page 7 for all of them. I originally bought two torque wrenches (5-25Nm and 40-200+Nm) after I broke a steel bolt in aluminum, best tools I ever bought.

Mackhack

Great write up.

Does anyone know the part number of the OEM Mercedes sealing compound?

Rudeney

Not sure of the MB part number, but it's just black RTV. Either of these work:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...20Pan%20Gasket

Mackhack

I thought of sharing some of the related WIS documents here. Maybe that helps others too. It includes torque values and other known useful information.

fernmc

Sealing compound part number is SEALANT M12E, cost me $25.67 in January 15

fernmc

The aluminum bolts in the breather cover must be replaced with new aluminum bolts. every time you open that cover. Do not use the old aluminum bolts. They are available through MB dealers. Don't cost much money.

fernmc

Sealing compound part number is SEALANT M12E, cost me $25.67 in January 15
Use only MB sealing compound. It's worthless to save a few dollars buying other brands. I recall to have bought one recommended at Pelican website, a green stuff. It as a mess. I had a leak a few months after. When I opened the breather cover, the sealant was gone, literally. Lost of time and money. Buy MB and you'll eliminate the guess out of the equation.

tjanoski

I pulled the air cover off my 2001 clk 430 covertible and notice that the piece that hold the black rubber piece is basically fried off like burnt metal. I believe this was the result of an overheat situation. What is the purpose of this black thing? Is this a problem that needs to be fixed? Any guidance is appreciated

tjanoski

I pulled the air cover off my 2001 clk 430 covertible and notice that the piece that hold the black rubber piece is basically fried off like burnt metal. I believe this was the result of an overheat situation. What is the purpose of this black thing? Is this a problem that needs to be fixed? Any guidance is appreciated

tjanoski

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stanimir

Beautiful job, you should do a video on all the repairs you do! Thanks for the lesson!!!

776westfield

When I started my 2005 CLK500 convertible with 50,000 after winter I noticed smoke from the passenger side of the engine. I looks like the there is oil seepage at valve cover gaskets on both sides. The breather covers look fine, no seepage. When I replace the valve cover gaskets should I remove and reseal the breather covers as well?

Mackhack

Yes because the screws that hold it down has to come out anyways. Might as well do it properly.

Rudeney

Also, the breathers get clogged with oil crud over time and that prevents them from "breathing" which can exacerbate oil leaks.

Mackhack

I’ll be doing mine in my E55 (M113k) soon, too. Left side is leaking like hell.

Make sure you buy OEM gaskets, OEM sealant, and last but not least the new steel screws. Don’t reuse the old aluminum screws.

Use Loctite 7200 to remove the old sealant, use Loctite 7063 to degrease everything.

776westfield

Do you know where to buy Loctite 7200 and Loctite 7063 ?

Mackhack

I have a few cans sitting around.

776westfield

I ordered all parts for the valve cover gasket replacement and breather covers resealing on my 2005 CLK500 with M113 engine. I have few questions before I started. First, when I apply the sealant on the breather covers and install them using 5 new small breather cover bolts at 4 Nm. Should I wait for the sealer to cure before installing the valve covers and torque them to the cylinder head, or I should complete the installation and wait for the sealer to cure after that? Second, how much time does the sealer need to cure before car can be started? Third, if I'm not mistaken, in the attached WIS document it shows that the valve cover bolts (Cylinder head cover bolt) should be to torqued in 2 stages, stage 1 at 9 Nm and stage 2 - has an angle symbol. How should I torque them correctly?

Mackhack

Make sure you don’t flatten the sealant with your finger. Too many wanna be YouTube star car mechanics all do it wrong. Apply a sealant “worm” with 2 mm diameter as close to the middle as possible. Immediately place the cover onto the sealant and place the entire cover onto the head and bolt it down. Don’t wait as this stuff (OEM “MB Black”) will start time cure in 10 minutes. Final cure time takes 24-48 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Don’t start the engine until then. You don’t want this stuff to run down inside the engine block.

The degree symbol has no number in the table, hence it’s just one stage with 8 Nm or whatever your document shows. That’s it. It’s not rocket science

Btw. Where in the posted WIS document do you see a screw that is being torqued down with 4 Nm? I see 8, 9 and 38 Nm.

776westfield

In the attached WIS document "Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation" it says, Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover at 4 Nm. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mackhack

You posted a different WIS doc above and that is what I refer to. We can only go by what you present. And there is no second stage with degree either in the crank case doc.

Everything I mentioned in my first response is what you should follow if you wanna do it right.

Good luck.