Awesome!! I'm very happy that you were able to do the job with the information I have contributed to this thread and to you.

I tightened the manifold bolts in two rounds as after first round they got guite loose after few moments. Propably the gasket was getting squeez'd. Yesterday I did the third round after driving a little over week and two of the bolts got a little more tighten. I have very rare misfires and I'm planning to check vacuum leaks with butane gas or similar this weekend.

But despite those very random and rare misfires the engine works great, so much more torgue and no hesitation at all. Those problems almost got me crazy and I was just about to let the car go. But now I'm so happy that I'm going to keep the car.

 

Yes I was wondering if I'd be able to reach the manifold bolts to check them... I will soon. I did put a dab if "blue" lock tight on those 8 bolts, but for some reason my torque wrench wasn't working right so I just snugged them down in the criss-cross pattern as you said to gradually tightening them as I when around a few times.

Now hopefully I will be able to wrap the wagon with HEXIS pearl white vinyl variochrome "has a pink hue" it's seems to be a European product as well as a European thing so you might have heard of it.

 

I started my disassemble before I found this thread and the gentlemans videos. Would have gone a lot quicker if I had studied those at first. I took a lot of additional sensors and connectors off including the other side ME. It did however make it much easier to maneuver the wiring harness. The trick will be figuring out how everything goes back together.

I did a lot of reading prior to breaking into my engine bay and was convinced that my actuator had broken which indeed it had and that that was the cause of my problems. However, it was also clear that the manifold runners were shot as well once I removed the throttle body. I have 120k miles and my guess is they (the originals) are good for only 100k miles. I'm also taking the opportunity to replace the injectors so everything is fresh.

I too had the dealer explain that I needed a new intake and was convinced that all I needed was a replacement actuator. My guess is they know very well what they are doing and what kind of shape these are going to be in once they open them up. After all, why would they want to just replace the actuator and spend all your good money for tear down and the fix only for you to continue to have problems because your intake runners are worn out and not functioning properly. On top of the liability of having them come apart shortly afterwards which I can easily see them doing if you ignore it long enough.

My thinking is do this right and do it once even though I'm selling it. But you better believe I'll be asking a premium for the recently completed work. At least I'll be confident it should last someone another 100k miles.

 

well I got almost 3 years out of the manifold repair. The generic codes p2187 & p2189 lean codes came back, and also on the mercedes scanner codes P0171,P0174,P0017,P0015 all lean beyond limit of self adaptation both banks and, I believe this makes the cam shafts go to their adjustment limit also.I will do a smoke test to confirm problem.I will try to post pictures of damage to manifold after 3 years of driving with most internal plastic runners removed. Maybe my aircraft epoxy repair gave out and I will have to fork over $550 for a new manifold

 

Well it seemed mine was just the vacuum hose so I could sell you my manifold cheap. I can send you pictures of it, but it didn't seem to have any broken parts

 

I have replacement tumble flap lever for AU$199.00 (approx. US$145.00 Oct 2015)

Express worldwide shipping in only 3 days from Australia for $19.00 using TNT Worldwide Express.


Highest quality and precision - an exact replica of your original broken plastic linkage but in high strength aluminium.
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www.monoglobal.com.au

 

Johnflight1,
Will the manifold fit an 06 C230? If so how much are you asking for it? Also are you located in the USA??\

Thanks

Bri

 

I have one and you'll need to make and offer and also check the part # for you year car. Pm me this is the Part No. 2721402201
This should fit your c class. Also I'm in Virginia

 

Just wondering if anyone has used the URO Parts kit yet. It's the only kit available that includes a new high quality actuator with a metal arm for the same price as the others with just the lever.

 

If you're in the US this might be simpler: http://www.agatools.com/part/mercede...throttle-lever

 

Hi All,
I have a 2006 C230 with 138K miles. Recently I got the error codes 2187 & 2006 (intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1a). I suspected the changeover lever to be broken (as it was the common cause in the forums). I used a boroscope to check that and found that the actuator arm (from 22/9 in the attached pic) had come off from the lever (attached pic). I managed to push the ball and socket joint together and manually was able to actuate the lever and saw that it worked fine. Couldn't check whether the socket was worn off and expanded. But after few days of driving the joint gave up. If the problem is with this joint, I can buy a lever and swirl valve switchover diaphragm to fix it.
But I also observed that longitudinal switch flap shaft (12/4) on the left side was almost coming off (attached pic). Is it normal for that to be so loose? I could easily pry and move the right side too. For now, I have just pushed them into proper place, not sure whether they move any thing inside the intake manifold.
Should I replace the entire manifold or any other suggestions?

Thank you,
Nanda

 

My advice is to replace the entire manifold. Broken pieces of flaps sucked into the engine can cause catastrophic failure.

 

Thank you for the suggestion Rodney. I just received the intake manifold. Will update the forum on what I find with the caps that were coming off from the intake.

Nanda

 

My friend and I spent 3 hrs last week to replace the manifold. The central actuator controls the flaps close to the valve. The other two actuator controls the air guide system. One of them (bank 1) was broken in my car (pics in previous posts) and got an error code and I had no other option other than replacing the intake manifold. The video on youtube by Janne Mustonen (and of course the discussions in this forum) were very useful. Some tips based on my experience (mistakes):
1. There is plenty of dirt around the manifold and under the manifold. While removing the manifold, make sure the dirt is not accidentally pushed on to the valves. Make sure = remove manifold in one smooth motion.
2 Same applies when removing the injectors. Remove the metal casing holding all the injectors in one smooth motion (the lower O ring will resist). Make sure the injector tips don't touch dirt and if it accumulates dirt, don't use any metal tip to remove dirt. Compressed air helped.
3. Some mentioned about how the gasket doesn't seat well while placing the new manifold. The gasket has pinch points that match with grooves in the manifold. So, first fix the gasket to the manifold and press the pinch points to hold it there.
4. Remember what came out has to go back in while placing the manifold. I forgot a vacuum pipe (one vacuum hose has to be pulled out from the old manifold and connected to the new one) and so had to remove the just fitted manifold to correct.

I forgot to connect the secondary air pump electric connector and got a OBD code and connected it later.

Now, have OBD codes P2188 and P2190 - running rich at idle. I had these issues a year back and had to change the crankcase ventilation to solve. Will check the connections again tomorrow.

 

I continued to check why I got the "running rich at idle" after the manifold replacement. The vacuum hoses looked good. Sprayed carb cleaner near vacuum lines, manifold gasket and injectors once the engine was fully warmed. The engine RPM dropped (engine was almost about to stop) when sprayed on one of the injectors. When I sprayed an extra amount on that injector, the engine stopped. (I was expecting an increase in RPM when the carb cleaner was sucked in but I think the fuel intake system loop is tight enough for ECU to trim fuel so much to kill the engine).
Had to remove the injector rail to replace three (out of 6) lower O rings (had only three new at hand). Applied a little engine oil to the O ring and packed everything.

Drove 350+ miles over the weekend and didn't get the error code. Surprisingly got a MPG of 28.6 over 40 Miles with constant speed of 70 MPH. I tested this couple of times to rule out any subtle road inclinations. It's more than Mercedes spec

 

I have an 0522 - The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction. Is this the same thing?

 

It has to be replaced if it has fallen apart internally.Mine had pieces of plastic flappers floating around inside and had wore a hole in the magnesium intake causing a large vacuum leak. I just replaced mine finally last week found a new one on sale for $450

 

Well, I only have 81,000 miles on the car. Hopefully, it's not too bad. Where did you get a new manifold for $450?

 

I tried to keep mine going for a while I took it off and pulled all the plastic flappers out of the internals,and also patched up the holes in the magnesium with aircraft epoxy. It worked for a while till all the vacuum ports came loose and the shaft bushings fell out causing a very large leak!
My unit started to fall apart in the 70-75k range and finally died in the upper 80k range. I got the new one at part geek

 

The least expensive one says: Intake manifold is not tapped for threads where the throttle actuator is mounted as the 4 screws used are self tapping.

Does that mean extra equipment/Work to make those threads? The Hella one appears to have it.

 

It was no problem the factory screws are self tapping and make threads very easily into the magnesium do not exceed 9nm. also the ECU mounts also self tap. it was very easy I had no problems

 

I'll chime in because this just happened to me . . .

Last month at 104,000 miles in my 2007 CLK 350, while driving 65 mph on the freeway I got a check engine light.

My trusted mechanic/cousin plugged in his Snap-On ODB2 scanner and got these codes 0522 (intake manifold tumble flap) and 0856 (thermostat)

The thermostat was an obvious no brainier, the OEM part was $125 and a gallon of coolant $15,

He provided me four options
1) OEM dealer part $1,200
2) Distributor OEM part $850
3) Aftermarket (Chinese) Part $550
4) Repair kit for broken flap $350

I chose option 2

$1006 in parts (also including gaskets)
Labor for manifold $255, labor for thermostat $85

Total damage after tax, etc was $1,436.54

After the repair all has gone well and most importantly NO Check Engine light

Though it was expensive I am glad I replaced the entire unit.

He gave me the old part and I may take it apart just to see for myself

 

Why so much??? $850?? I think we posted cost earlier in thread

 

Got the factory OEM Pierburg Intake Manifold for half the price $439.39 at parts geek for the ML350 272 engine took a few hours not a bad job. Not looking forward to doing the Balance Shaft got the codes for that now

 

The balance shaft is an easy job with the engine out of the car. But of course removing the engine is not an easy task, though looking at the WIS docs and eyeballing everything, it doesn't look too bad - it's just wrenching! It's better than what I used to do on old Mustangs and Chevys with multiple wiring harnesses to deal with and rusted exhaust systems.