2MCHCAR

I'm experiencing a BAS/ESP/ABS issue on my 2004 CLK500, my instrument cluster is giving me the malfunction warning that all three of those systems are affected. I didn't see too much information about this problem online for W209 cars so I'm reaching out to the experts on mbworld.

I connected my DAS system and did a "Quick Check", the ESP menu showed 2 faults:

C1330 - A7/7y1 (BAS solenoid valve) Electrical Fault
C1001 - Control unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module) is defective

I erased the codes and did a test drive; after 3 minutes the same malfunctions returned on the display and I drove home to look at the codes via DAS. This time there was only one code:

C1001 - Control unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module) is defective

Below is a picture of what I believe is the N47-5 unit with numbers representing 3 major components.





I have a few questions:
Is N47-5 component only the Black Box labeled "3" (part number A209-545-30-32) that is connected to the aluminum housing #2 or is it all one unit. If so, a new one would cost about a $1000, but I can also get a used on on eBay for much less (is it worth the risk).
Is it difficult to replace component N47-5? I found a video of someone replacing the "3" unit above in a W203, here is the link to the video:
Any tips on trouble shooting?

Some things to consider:
Yesterday I replaced my spark plugs and during the re installation of the spark plug ignition wires on cylinder 5 and 6, I hit the ESP box inadvertently a few times; not too hard to where it caused any visible damage, but it did shake the unit. After my first test drive everything was great, but then the second time I drove the car these problems came up.

I have a 2 month old AGM battery and the voltage is at 13.0V; no other electrical anomalies reported.

On the dash, only the ABS light is on and the power steering is a little tougher after the malfunction indication first pops up; otherwise the car drives fine.

Plutoe

First, you better be careful else you wind up with S's--I know you now this however the part number you think is correct is not a valid part number--you do these things by the VIN as there have been six changes with two chassis types----I know you are broke and out of a job bla bla but you own a thirteen year old car that is now expensive to repair and you want to do things on the cheap--save yourself some money and at least define the correct part number!!

2MCHCAR

Update: I cleared the ESP codes via DAS and I went for another test drive. I drove straight on a street for about a mile without using my brakes and with no malfunction on the dash, then as I approached a light I hit the brakes to slow down and the malfunction came back on right away.

I scanned the car via DAS and it was the same result as the first time:
C1330 - A7/7y1 (BAS solenoid valve) Electrical Fault
C1001 - Control unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module) is defective

Since the malfunction didn't occur until I hit the brakes, I now believe that BAS code C1330 is causing the second code C1001 to appear (if the BAS malfunctions, then the ESP module will throw a code since the BAS is part of the ESP/ABS/BAS trio).

That's my theory anyway, if anyone knows more please chime in!

Looking at the diagrams online, it looks like I have to buy a new brake booster since the solenoid is inside the brake booster. See diagram below:

ItalianJoe1

The solenoid fault could be a result of the failed N47/5 unit. I'd replace the module first and see if the code for the solenoid is still present.

2MCHCAR

I see what your getting at, if the N47/5 is faulty, then it might cause the electrical fault at the solenoid.

I'm still not sure what N47/5 is exactly, if it's the component labeled "3" on my original post, then that unit will cost about $1000. The replacement didn't look too bad in the video, maybe 30 minutes tops.

On the other hand if I attacked the brake booster first, then it would cost about $650 and the install will take about 8 hours.

Since all 3 times I scanned with DAS had the N47/5 fault code (verses only two times for the brake booster solenoid) and I hit the ESP module a few time yesterday changing spark plugs; I think I may go with your recommendation and fix N47/5 first once I figure out what exactly it is.

2MCHCAR

I figured out what exactly N47-5 is and it's location; it is what I labeled as "3" on the diagram. Below is the picture provided by my W209 Service DVD:

Rudeney

C1001 does point to a bad ESP control unit (#3 in your photo) and it is about $1000 for a new one. The part number is VIN specific, but based on your MY2004, I suspect it's A2095453132.

What I'd do first is remove it, clean everything and check the wiring harness connector. If all is good, but you still have issues, I might try a used one, but with a guarantee. R&R only take s few minutes, so its not a big investment in time if it doesn't work.

2MCHCAR

Following Rudney's suggestion, I ordered a used ESP part (with the same old MB part number) for around $160 but it didn't work. During installation, I noticed that my ESP module had a sticker on the bottom half of the face and it looks like the part was updated by the manufacturer with a different manufacturer number. When I reviewed the replacement used part, it also had a sticker, and the manufacturer number was different than the one on my module so that may be why it didn't work (the part was also from a CLK320 so that maybe a factor).

So in the end, I just ordered a new ESP module from mboemparts for about $950. mboemparts used my VIN number to check and the part number Rudney listed is the correct number for my 2004 CLK500.

Does anyone know if this part is plug and play or it has to be scan/VIN coded?

I looked at my Mercedes Service DVD for the install/removal and I didn't see any note about coding it. Online, I've seen posts saying that it's not necessary as long as it is the same part.

Rudeney

No coding needed.

2MCHCAR

Success! My new ESP module came in, I installed it (5 minute procedure) and drove around for a day and a half. I can confirm that it issue has not returned and the problem was truly with the ESP module.

Thanks to everyone who helped me troubleshoot this issue!

I do want to leave some notes and observations for others if they encounter this problem.

* The procedure video linked above tells you everything you need to do, the only thing that was missing was detailing the correct reverse torx bit to use on the screws. The correct reverse torx bit size is E5.
* ESP Modules do not need to be VIN/SCN coded, it's plug and play.
* After removing the old ESP Module, I noticed that there was a rusty residue on 2 of the 16 prongs. I attempted to clean the corrosion to see if it fixed the problem, but it didn't (it may be physical proof that there was damage).
* The box for the brand new ESP module had the A2095453132 number Rudeney listed on the outside, but the part itself has the original number I listed on the original post A2095453032. I don't know why it's done that way, but it does add to the confusion.
* I have a feeling that if I had chosen to buy a used ESP module from a 2004 CLK500 (instead of a 2003 CLK320 for $150), it would have probably worked but pay attention to the manufacturer numbers on the front (not the MB Part numbers) because my old unit had a sticker that changed that number and my used unit also had a sticker; my new ESP module had no sticker. I plan on keeping my car for a long time, so paying $1000 for a new one was a long term decision.
* I saved lots of $$$ because I had my on DAS system so I can get all the Mercedes specific codes. If you don't have a DAS system and your planing on keeping your Mercedes for a while, I highly recommend it (it would pay for itself after 1 or 2 uses). You could also go to a independent Mercedes shop and pay $150 for them to do a scan for you and get a print out. I estimate I saved $500+ because I didn't have to go to the Stealership or independent shop.
* When the problem occurred, the display on the speedometer said "BAS Defective", then "ESP Defective", but the car was still drive able. I did notice the power steering was turned down so I had to give more effort, but otherwise the car behaved normal.

Rudeney

Glad to hear of a success story on this!