Secondary Air Monitor not resetting
had put in a new intake manifold and replaced the 2 front cats to clear the MIL
Read all I could find on this forum about repeated cold starts and letting engine warm up, driving cycle, etc - to no avail.
Any other ideas out there ?
no MIL light or trouble codes but still wonder if there is anything wrong with the system that keeps it from resetting even without triggering an MIL?
air pump comes on upon start up for 40 or so secs but not sure what else to check
thoughts ? - thanks for your help
1. Cold start - secondary air pump should come on, wait for it to turn off
2. Go for a short drive and get the car to operating temp.
3. Park the car and let it idle for 10-20 minutes - within this time frame you should hear the secondary air pump come on again for it's second check
The one thing that surprises me is you're not getting a P0410 error code when you fail the secondary air injection retest while driving. If you have a ME 2.0 car that may explain the missing code.
If if you want to know how the system works, just post a note and I'll explain it. This is a common failure for both Mercedes and Porsche. The fix is the same for both Mercedes and Porsche as well. I hope that helps.
Yes, I'd be interested in your explanation on how the system works
thanks much !
Some time during a normal drive cycle, a system check is performed. The check works similarly to the cold start – except the ECU checks the O2 sensors. This is the check – the ECU (the main engine control unit) turns on the secondary air pump, which is cycled for a short period of time (30 to 120 seconds). The ECU also sends a signal to the changeover valve, which opens the air valves. When closed, the air valves keep the secondary air pump separate from exhaust pulses. With the pump running and the valves open, additional air is added to the exhaust through an air port in the head. During the test, the ECU uses the oxygen sensors to determine if the oxygen levels in the exhaust have changed. This test happens regularly, and it is undetectable when the system works. If the ECU does not detect the change, it will flag a secondary air injection error.
The EXACT same test is performed on a Porsche 911. The 993 series 911 is notorious for failing this test due to clogged ports. The fix on a 993 is the same as it was on my CLK. (1) Determine whether the port is clogged. (2) use carb cleaner to try and break up the carbon. (3) As a last resort, use air pressure to break up the carbon. 100+ PSI of air has worked in every instance I've heard of except 1. That was on a 911 and I don't know the details of why it didn't work. I will tell you, had it been me, I would have taken the pressure up to 150 PSI. My thoughts are - packed exhaust carbon is not stronger than an aluminum head.
BMW 6 cylinders also regularly fail the SAI (secondary air injection) test. So much so, that there's an aftermarket tool to break up the carbon for a BMW.
Cold start, engine temp below 45* C
Run in Park with AC off, hold above 1400 RPM until engine temp is above 83*C
Drive for 5-10 min
I just had to do the same thing, the procedure to reset ALL the monitors needed for CA smog is pretty annoying, especially if you've recently disconnected the battery.
Do you have a code scanner that can check monitor readiness?
Trending Topics
Have read all about BMW and Porsche owner's issues with carbon deposits etc - thanks for the tip Marcus.
Will dive into relay, changeover valve etc as suggested tomorrow and report back
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Thanks much Marcus and V8sonly - Great help !!
My conclusion after reading the step by step process that I could find, is that the readiness monitors were programmed to cycle exactly to the commute of the engineer who programmed the ECU. It's a rather absurd, complicated and specific process.
Cold start, engine temp below 45* C
Run in Park with AC off, hold above 1400 RPM until engine temp is above 83*C
Drive for 5-10 min
I just had to do the same thing, the procedure to reset ALL the monitors needed for CA smog is pretty annoying, especially if you've recently disconnected the battery.
Do you have a code scanner that can check monitor readiness?






