Any better recommendations Than The Renntech EVM?
#78
You order online - ship it to the drop shipper, and they forward it to your address in the US. There is a cost associated but much less then the Renntech markup.
#79
Junior Member
I would love to get this module for my car. Are there any more specific instructions on how to get the ASR module shipped to the US? Is there a certain company that people go through? Thanks.
#80
I just got two of them in (one for me and one for a buddy). I ordered around 27 October and just got them in last week. If you’re still interested, I’ll PM you the process. Just expect to wait awhile. After the whole process, I think I was into it for $480.
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KenGross (12-21-2020)
#81
Junior Member
Yes please send me the process. Thanks a lot!
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Orcbolg (12-20-2020)
#83
Super Member
If you don't have downpipes, I would wait and try those before getting an EVM. I have downpipes (where already on the car when I got it) and in comfort mode, on startup, it's almost as loud as a regular GTS in race mode on startup. Someone asked what I'd done to the exhaust and I said nothing and then we got it on the rack and noticed only 1 set of CATS
#84
If you don't have downpipes, I would wait and try those before getting an EVM. I have downpipes (where already on the car when I got it) and in comfort mode, on startup, it's almost as loud as a regular GTS in race mode on startup. Someone asked what I'd done to the exhaust and I said nothing and then we got it on the rack and noticed only 1 set of CATS
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V8ray (01-05-2021)
#85
Super Member
sorry I should have clarified, I meant if someone was planning on doing downpipes, maybe try those before an EVM... I do disagree on the startup sound/volume, my car is significantly louder on startup with downpipes than a non downpiped GTS, I have not measured the DB level but its definitely louder.
#87
If you use the fob to put it back to stock settings, the only way they'd know is if they dug into the floorboard to access the fuse panel. And if you're really concerned you can just unplug it if you are taking it in for service.
#89
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sorry I should have clarified, I meant if someone was planning on doing downpipes, maybe try those before an EVM... I do disagree on the startup sound/volume, my car is significantly louder on startup with downpipes than a non downpiped GTS, I have not measured the DB level but its definitely louder.
Lots of people do what you did, but I don't think they are doing this work for sound.
#90
Member
Are you ordering the CETE Exhaust Module? If so there is no need for any work for getting it delivered to the US. I ordered mine last month and got it within 4 business days from Germany, they shipped it with UPS. Total cost was $550.
#91
I'm not sure about this advice. The EVM takes $500.00 US and 30min to install and check for sound variance. Downpipes are a 'no turning back' kind of mod. You have to cut the stocks out, and the swap out is no easy task; then there is the cost of the pipes ($1500 to $4000 depending on the type/brand) and then you will need a tune as well ($2000) and of course shop time if you don't do the job yourself.
Lots of people do what you did, but I don't think they are doing this work for sound.
Lots of people do what you did, but I don't think they are doing this work for sound.
The ASR Module, not cete.
#92
Newbie
Hey folks - Just ordered the RennTech for a 2020 C63S. $603, which includes 3 day shipping from FL to CA. Just sharing the price I paid for the RT as of today; I realize I could have saved some money but perhaps waited a little longer. Best!
#93
Junior Member
Many thanks to x96535 for providing the detailed instructions!!!
I paid $427 for the ASR module and $70 for the drop shipper to send it to me 1-2 day Fedex from Germany so all in about $500 to my door in less than a week. Can’t wait to get it installed!
I paid $427 for the ASR module and $70 for the drop shipper to send it to me 1-2 day Fedex from Germany so all in about $500 to my door in less than a week. Can’t wait to get it installed!
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dmoneymaker (12-23-2020)
#94
Super Member
My apologies for not being clear. I was not suggesting you get downpipes for sound. I was suggesting if your plan is do to downpipes AND you'd also like a louder exhaust sound, getting the EVM first and later doing downpipes may be the best use of your money. I was seriously considering the EVM, but after having downpipes its quite loud enough, and of course, downpipes give additional power.
#95
Here's a Stock vs EVM (ASR/Renntech module) comparison I just threw together:
Edit: I forgot to add that I do not have secondary cats.
Edit: I forgot to add that I do not have secondary cats.
Last edited by Orcbolg; 03-14-2023 at 09:07 PM.
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Orcbolg (12-24-2020)
#97
I have my EVM in hand and I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the access covers in the footwell. There is a hard plastic cover with three 10MM hex nuts (two on the bottom and one up top), but the top one is so recessed I don't know how I would ever get the nut started again. And the instructions seem to indicate there are 6 nuts to remove.
Does that mean there are three others to remove that I can't locate?
Thanks
Does that mean there are three others to remove that I can't locate?
Thanks
#98
I have my EVM in hand and I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the access covers in the footwell. There is a hard plastic cover with three 10MM hex nuts (two on the bottom and one up top), but the top one is so recessed I don't know how I would ever get the nut started again. And the instructions seem to indicate there are 6 nuts to remove.
Does that mean there are three others to remove that I can't locate?
Thanks
Does that mean there are three others to remove that I can't locate?
Thanks
#100
OK I got it installed, and it works, and it does sound much better at idle and low speed.
Having just finish this install, let me share a few notes that might make it easier for the next person.
There are three 10mm hex nuts holding the floor panel in place. The two at the bottom are easy to get to, but the one at the top is deeply recessed and requires either multiple socket extensions or an extension and a deep well socket.
The cover was stubborn to remove, I had to man handle it to get it off, including some bending and cussing.
The multi pin connector has a levered locking mechanism. The lever is light grey as opposed to black and must be operated to get the connectors apart. I strongly suggest carefully examining and operating the lock on the new module because it has a small plastic tab to keep it from opening accidentally, and figuring out the tab on the one in the footwell would be a challenge.
When you remove the 10A fuse to install the power cable for the module, there is a slot in the plug next to the 3A fuse that you must put the10A fuse into. So there will be TWO fuses in the adapter when you plug it back in.
There is a good ground just forward of the speaker against the right side. It also requires a 10MM socket.
I found the easiest way to replace the plastic cover was to put the top threaded bolt through the hole in the cover first, then push the bottom of the cover forward until the two bottom bolts line up.
Replacing the top nut requires a method of getting the nut to stay in the socket while you are affixing it. If you take a 1" square of paper towel and put it over the socket, then force the nut into the socket, the paper will hold the nut in place and you can start it by hand holding the socket extensions in your fingers to start the nut, then pulling off the socket and retrieving the paper with needle nose pliers, then finishing tightening.
And credit Orcblog for this one, you can program you garage door opener in the car to operate the module, and you can also purchase cheap replacement remotes from Amazon. However you must have one working remote to clone from or you would have to repurchase the entire module. Mine came with only one remote so now I have a spare.
Having just finish this install, let me share a few notes that might make it easier for the next person.
There are three 10mm hex nuts holding the floor panel in place. The two at the bottom are easy to get to, but the one at the top is deeply recessed and requires either multiple socket extensions or an extension and a deep well socket.
The cover was stubborn to remove, I had to man handle it to get it off, including some bending and cussing.
The multi pin connector has a levered locking mechanism. The lever is light grey as opposed to black and must be operated to get the connectors apart. I strongly suggest carefully examining and operating the lock on the new module because it has a small plastic tab to keep it from opening accidentally, and figuring out the tab on the one in the footwell would be a challenge.
When you remove the 10A fuse to install the power cable for the module, there is a slot in the plug next to the 3A fuse that you must put the10A fuse into. So there will be TWO fuses in the adapter when you plug it back in.
There is a good ground just forward of the speaker against the right side. It also requires a 10MM socket.
I found the easiest way to replace the plastic cover was to put the top threaded bolt through the hole in the cover first, then push the bottom of the cover forward until the two bottom bolts line up.
Replacing the top nut requires a method of getting the nut to stay in the socket while you are affixing it. If you take a 1" square of paper towel and put it over the socket, then force the nut into the socket, the paper will hold the nut in place and you can start it by hand holding the socket extensions in your fingers to start the nut, then pulling off the socket and retrieving the paper with needle nose pliers, then finishing tightening.
And credit Orcblog for this one, you can program you garage door opener in the car to operate the module, and you can also purchase cheap replacement remotes from Amazon. However you must have one working remote to clone from or you would have to repurchase the entire module. Mine came with only one remote so now I have a spare.