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Life after an engine oil flush

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Old 07-15-2018, 02:13 PM
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2012 X6 35i Sport, 2013 ML 350 BT, 2019 4Runner TRD Pro, 2020 CRV-AWD
Life after an engine oil flush

I've been using 1.5 bottles of Liqui-Moly engine flush as per Stephen's Service recommendations. Much to my chagrin, after changing the oil, it was just as jet-black as before. So I've modified my oil change procedure.

I change the oil every 5k kms (3k miles). I run 20W50 motorcycle oil in the summer but due to the flush treatment, the flush would loosen so much varnish that the fresh oil was a disgusting black instantly.
So now I:

- Pour 1.5 bottles of flush into engine, let engine idle for 10 minutes
- Drain oil
- Fill engine with 6 litres of cheapa$$ diesel oil ($11 CAN/gallon)
- Run engine for 2 minutes
- Drain oil pan, replace oil filter, refill with Amsoil Dominator 20W50


Now, the new oil looks like new oil. Whereas before, the new oil was jet black within seconds.
Warranty runs out in October. Will be doing the remote filter mod shortly thereafter, as well as the DEF/EGR/DPF delete mods. Our MB should then last as long as MB diesels used to last without issues

Last edited by peter2772000; 07-15-2018 at 02:16 PM.
Old 07-15-2018, 05:01 PM
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Biff, you drive a diesel, wake up and smell the roses the oil will be blackened in days!
Old 07-15-2018, 05:10 PM
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W211 e320 CDI
Pluto’s echoes my experience. When I first got my W211 I tried 5k on Mobil 1, then doing 1k Rotella flushes for a bit. Decided in this sense the OM648 in my car was just like every other diesel I’ve owned...oil turns coal black in days of use no matter. Last major service I did at 212k miles I ran my borescope into valve cover and oil pan...all parts were shiny clean and that oil change saw 19k miles of use.
Old 07-15-2018, 05:20 PM
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Yeah.....I surrender.

Wife took the truck on a 50 mile drive this am. I checked the oil when she got back. Blacker than the Ace of Spades.

"Biff" LOLOL
Old 07-15-2018, 06:06 PM
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It's a diesel, they all do that.
Old 07-15-2018, 08:23 PM
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When I first bought my 08 E320 Bluetec I used two full bottles of Liqui Moly engine flush since I didn’t really know what the internals were like.I change the oil religiously and it still turns jet black in no time.A magnetic drain plug is a good investment.I installed one on my car yesterday.
Old 07-16-2018, 05:26 AM
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I change the oil every 3k miles (5k kms) and also run a Dimple magnetic oil pan plug.

ItalianJoe1, you run a 12.5 in the quarter? I'm down on the west coast of FL this week, would love to see you do a 12.5 LOL
Old 07-16-2018, 11:04 AM
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W211 e320 CDI
Dimple drain plug magnets are AMAZING. We send them a lot of the their motorcycle and scooter samples, I’ve got both motor and trans drain from Dimple on my freaking Vespa.
Old 07-16-2018, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
It's a diesel, they all do that.

Lol except with a tune. I have GDE tune and on top of other pluses. I have noticed that my oil does not get near as black. Which the only problem is it is sometimes hard to see the level on the dipstick since no longer jet black. 😏


Old 07-17-2018, 02:59 PM
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Smarta$$ LOLOL.

Now I want to do the delete mods even more.
Old 07-17-2018, 03:16 PM
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W211 e320 CDI
You won’t regret it...I say this as a resident of an area that doesn’t emissions test diesels...I definitely don’t regret it.
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
I change the oil every 3k miles (5k kms) and also run a Dimple magnetic oil pan plug.

ItalianJoe1, you run a 12.5 in the quarter? I'm down on the west coast of FL this week, would love to see you do a 12.5 LOL
I'm on the east coast but yeah the car did that stock. It's a little quicker now with the tune but haven't been back.

I love magnetic drain plugs, I don't know why manufacturers don't use them more. I guess the cost just isn't worth it. Last ones I saw OEM were on chevy trucks.
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:33 PM
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2008 gl320cdi
With the tune major positives

can use a better protecting oil if get rid of dpf. Which also helps engine breath better another plus

shuts down egr which helps keep intake and oil cleaner

disables swirl motors so no more limp mode or being forced to change intake.

Fuel mileage’s improved some on my vehicle but I thought it would be better. Also the tranny codes are tweaked so I feel it shifts smoother.

Eventually when I go after the oil cooler seals I plan to have intake cleaned /ported and removed of swirl motor and egr components to clean up engine bay of unused parts.

Last edited by smiledr996s; 07-17-2018 at 07:35 PM.
Old 07-18-2018, 08:29 AM
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W211 e320 CDI
Originally Posted by smiledr996s
Fuel mileage’s improved some on my vehicle but I thought it would be better. Also the tranny codes are tweaked so I feel it shifts smoother.

Eventually when I go after the oil cooler seals I plan to have intake cleaned /ported and removed of swirl motor and egr components to clean up engine bay of unused parts.
Basically the route in went with my inline 6 version, no bovine urine to deal with however for me. Removing all the horse**** pluming and parts under hood definitely cleaned up looks and made self service easier. I’m not a 100% sure the swirl valves really helped or hurt, gone the boost build is more linear and over 15 psi is possible by under 1650 rpm. My fuel economy went way up but my turbine is open, nothing but 304 stainless pipe between exducer and rear bumper. The swirl valve motor, actuators and shaft, EGR cooler expansion box thing...resonators on turbo outlet and intercooler outlet...all stuff really not needed.
Old 07-18-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Micah / AF1 Rac


Basically the route in went with my inline 6 version, no bovine urine to deal with however for me. Removing all the horse**** pluming and parts under hood definitely cleaned up looks and made self service easier. I’m not a 100% sure the swirl valves really helped or hurt, gone the boost build is more linear and over 15 psi is possible by under 1650 rpm. My fuel economy went way up but my turbine is open, nothing but 304 stainless pipe between exducer and rear bumper. The swirl valve motor, actuators and shaft, EGR cooler expansion box thing...resonators on turbo outlet and intercooler outlet...all stuff really not needed.
Did you get rid of the turbo outlet resonator - the plastic 90 degree elbow? If so, what did you fab up instead?
Old 07-18-2018, 10:49 AM
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W211 e320 CDI
This winters project, both the kidney resonator and the turbo outlet resonator go bye bye. Will post pics when I do it. Have been hoping someone makes that part but alas have found nothing for the turbo discharge resonator. Might core it with straight through liner, might just make a whole new part. If I go that route I need to find the part number for the Euro model that is made from metal for end pieces.
Old 07-18-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Micah / AF1 Rac
This winters project, both the kidney resonator and the turbo outlet resonator go bye bye. Will post pics when I do it. Have been hoping someone makes that part but alas have found nothing for the turbo discharge resonator. Might core it with straight through liner, might just make a whole new part. If I go that route I need to find the part number for the Euro model that is made from metal for end pieces.
I've already done the other 2 deletes, I was hoping you had a trick for the turbo discharge pipe. My plan was to try and use 2 silicone 90's with an inner aluminum sleeve to join them, I'll have to see what the turbo outlet diameter is and the diameter of the inter cooler hose flange.
Old 07-18-2018, 05:48 PM
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W211 e320 CDI
I dislike the silicone hoses on high boost applications except for very short joiner sections between hard pipes. Every diesel I’ve owned I’ve had issues with these repeatedly but I like to run a wee high on the boost so my problems may be mine and mine alone? I love the way Mercedes does the stock pipespost turbo and have seen the resonator equipped discharge pipe on eBay.de in cast aluminum. That would be my basis for remaking a resonator free version. Honestly I’ve had better luck with schedule 40 Hadrian colored) PVC pipe than silicone hose sections for longer runs, may be a bit ghetto but, what works, works right? Cutting and welding a few bits of aluminum together for a factory like fit is much more appealing to me. I have no idea how long this car is going to last but since I drive it about a hundred miles daily....might as well have some fun with it, at 214k miles it has absolutely no resale value other than to an insurance company if someone slams me lol
Old 07-19-2018, 03:40 PM
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Where do I get this “tune”? Website?
Old 07-19-2018, 03:45 PM
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Green Diesel Engineering or GDE
Old 07-20-2018, 08:12 AM
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Malone Tuning is another very reputable tuner. They don't really list these vehicles on their site, but they will custom tune anything you would like. They did a stage 1 and EGR delete on my OM648, you can also get rid of the swirl flap motor through the tune, but I just did the resistor trick instead.
Old 07-20-2018, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Micah / AF1 Rac
Green Diesel Engineering or GDE
Already contacted them but they have nothing for a OM642
Old 07-20-2018, 06:00 PM
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When I got my tune a few years they had tunes for 07/08. Not sure what they have now. I had a reflash and updated tune a few months ago when I had a code pop up. I have an 08.
Old 07-20-2018, 09:00 PM
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They did Peter, it’s the same motor from the Sprinter truck/van line and they definitely used to offer it? Malone it is, I have heard nothing but good things honestly about them anyway.
Old 07-21-2018, 07:16 AM
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Yeah, I fired off an email to Malone, waiting back for a response.

Never thought I'd be contemplating yanking off pollution-control equipment again. Haven't done that since the 80's. But a recent warranty-covered bill for $4k for a DEF repair on a 20k mile MB, as well as warranty coverage running out in October, has convinced me otherwise.


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