ps2cho

19's are just too big for a non-500E w124. I've seen 20's before and it is just ridiculous...

Saijin_Naib

My concern with the swap and switch to HFM is that I dont know of anyone that would be able to figure it out. My thoughts with the 3.6L build (either from Renntech or using the C36 parts) was that it is more straight forward. It may not be.

Ideally, I'd like to do the C36 swap on a 94/95 e320 Coupe that already has HFM so the work would be less challenging.

Saijin_Naib

Right, just got off the phone with the Bilstein rep and I was informed that the last two positions on the model name (In my case, H0 vs H1) only signifies that they were manufactured at different sites. I was assured that nothing is different between the two.

AMGDave

YOU SOLVED THE MYSTERY!!! Very cool! I always wondered what the difference was between the H0/H1 part numbers. Glad to hear it's basically irrelevant!

Saijin_Naib

Haha, as soon as I said that I had a question about two dampers for my car she was like "...., does it have to do with the last two digits of the product number?"

I'm guessing they get this question often enough seeing as how she anticipated it. Perhaps it would serve them to just put this info somewhere on the site.

Now, my question is thus: What site is the original site? Do site H0 and site H1 really manufacture stuff to the same quality level? Is one a German site and one is some low-cost third-world site?

Not to be rude but...

ps2cho

I wouldn't worry about it...they have lifetime warrantys

Saijin_Naib

Yeah, I was reading the warranty terms to get familiar with it. Appears that my warranty is void if I race the car :\ Does AutoX count? I don't really feel like it should..

AMGDave

How would they know if you raced autox, street, or anything else...?

Saijin_Naib

I'm guessing from the warranty terms that if the shock rod is bent or otherwise visibly beat up they may not cover it under warranty. I sincerely doubt that AutoX is that strenuous though.

Saijin_Naib

Here are the plugs as I pulled them today. I "refurbed" them by scraping all the buildup off but it does not seem to have either helped nor hurt anything.

Going by the diagnostics listed on this page (Spark Plug Diagnosis), it appears to be Dry Fouling, which is described as:
"Can be caused by many different conditions. Carbon deposits build up when the plug fails to fire correctly and burn them off. Air/fuel mixture too rich, choke stuck on, electrical problem, extended periods of low speed driving, plug heat range too cold. All should be investigated".

Edit: Tested my 0-60 run again, 13.78 with full fuel tank so about in-line with the 13.60s I was pulling with minimal fuel in the tank. WTF.

Saijin_Naib

Dad did a compression test (no leakdown yet) and Cylinders 1-5 were about 170-180PSI which is apparently within reason.

Cylinder 6 was struggling to even make it to 120PSI, mostly around 100PSI flat. When my dad sprayed oil into Cylinder 6 and retested the compression it pulled about 170-180PSI again, so he said that was a bad ring.

So, with the compression mostly in spec, that does not really explain the poor performance. Leakdown test hopefully we can do tomorrow.

I'm still putting my money on fuel delivery issues.

Edit:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...=269449&page=2
(m104 performance info)

ps2cho

You have one cylinder which is not balancing the engine. I bet that is part of the issue although I don't see it dragging you down 5seconds...It IS an issue though don't get me wrong. 100psi is low. You are running on 5 + 1/2 cylinders basically. Over 170-180psi is perfect.

What plugs are those? I don't remember any of our plugs needing washers...Also, might be the picture, but they look gapped incorrectly. This may also be the reason. Buy a fresh set of non-resistor plugs and gap them correctly.

Now that you have established you have compression, a leakdown should be next on the list. If you have significant leakage, it would explain everything and then you won't spend money on items that it ended up not being. Let's hope your leakdown is reasonable.

RBYCC

Tighten the plug gaps to around 80MM..
Cylinder variation should be around 1 bar, so you have a dead cylinder.
The cylinder doesn't seem to be sucking oil based on the plug pix.

I don't think the problem is in fuel delivery...
Possibly in the valve train ?
Post the results of the leakdown test..

Just don't spend any more money on anything until you sort the engine power loss out !!!

Saijin_Naib

I'm not having any wipers (either by turning the stalk nor pushing the stalk in), windows, nor sunroof. The interior lights work, the switches will not work with the driver's side door open anymore, nor will they work by doing the key-in-lock trick anymore.

I've replaced Fuses 4/5 with fresh ones but this has not resolved the problem.

I've been reading that I should replace our Aluminium/ceramic fuses with Copper/Ceramic fuses. Any thoughts on this?

Anyone else experience this isssue? Some have indicated a possibly bad diode in a harness below the rear seat, but I really hope this is not the case.

I've been fine with my A/C being broken since I had windows/sunroof but it has been topping 100F here and now I have neither AC nor windows and it ****ing sucks.

Saijin_Naib

Here are pictures of the wheel/airbag set I got from JoeF's 94 car. I don't think it has the horn contact ring. Or atleast, I'm not seeing it.

AMGDave

Nope, no contact ring there. You'll need a 92-93 style contact ring to fit that wheel. The cost for a new one is crazy, I'd try to locate a used one from a P+P.

Saijin_Naib

This for sure isn't the one right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...Q5fAccessories

I need the one with the exposed brass?

AMGDave

For sure. That is the 94-95 contact spiral - won't fit your 300CE steering column.



Correct. Like this:

Saijin_Naib

Wow, you were not kidding about the price of that clockspring. 289 from Rusty >_<

Right now, I've got 2 options. Rick was nice enough to find/post this for me:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...item4cf1606a78

And I'm waiting on Hanno's reply about his parting out of his 92 400e, and whether or not he has the clockspring left.

Saijin_Naib

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Jumped on the copper/ceramic fuse set for the whopping cost of about 11$ US shipped and replaced every fuse I found in the fuse box. I'm sure there are others hiding about, but for now, it seems to have either fixed nothing or broken nothing. The issue with the Convenience relay was so intermittent that I can't predict what would cause it, so I can't be certain replacing the fuses helped at all. However, I feel better that these have not been baking in the engine bay for 20 years and likely will not crap out or have microfractures in the fuse metal.

Saijin_Naib

On the quest to track down my performance issues. Local shop had a look at the engine and did a further Compression test (no leakdown still). Post one bottle of Luke's Mystery Oil the engine does seem to have remedied a bit of its compression lost.

Latest compression test yielded the following numbers:
Cyl # | Compression (PSI)
1 160
2 180
3 165
4 135
5 180
6 140

Looks like Cyl 6 recovered a lot of compression after the Luke's. The mech said the engine may get some benefit from running a de-carbonizer through. Thoughts?

He said to focus on my ignition system (plugs/wires/coil). I have the NGK plugs still sitting as I didn't want to foul them by running them in my issue-laden engine. However, I did jump on the NGK plug wire set as I do have a few nicks/breaks in the current spark plug wire insulation and at the very least, this may cure my cars issue with starting in humid/wet weather with a cold engine.

Now for the coil, I know nothing about this. Here is what I believe to be the correct EPC listing for it. What do I need?



Thanks!

RBYCC

Brett...

Don't throw too much money into your car...
Have you tested your current coil?
If it fails test then go for the second one...

The compression should be with 10% between cylinders...
You have two good cylinders, two just about decent and two that are about dead....

Ignition may relieve some starting difficulties, but low compression is a typical cause of hard starting.

Drive it into the ground and unless the rest of the car is pristine, look for another....

Cheaper to purchase a 124 with a very sound engine then to rebuild/replace what you have..

Good Luck

Saijin_Naib

No, not pristine at all Ed. I guess I'll just keep it running for now and not worry about it. This however means that it has offered itself up for sacrifice as "project car" once I get some more money flowing in. Should be exciting...

RBYCC

Good way to look at it

Conclusion comes under : "Better the devil you know....."

Saijin_Naib

Exactly. Besides, the car has a sentimental value to it and I've run a few races in it and an offroad rally soo. I don't know, I'd rather not just sell it or junk it.

I guess seeing as the engine needs a rebuild eventually, I pretty much HAVE to do a 3.6L build, right? If it is going to be apart anyway