E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Tips on polishing / waxing?

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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:56 AM
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Tips on polishing / waxing?

I had a go at doing the 260E's paint as it looks faded in some areas....

I tell you what it came up AMAZING!! HUGE difference.
I used Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner by Meguiars....but I was left unsatisfied when I used the polish + wax. After the paint cleaner, it was very very shiny without any swirls...but after I applied the polish it kept leaving swirls.

Any tips on how I can get the swirls to disappear using polish/wax? I was using a 100% terry cloth. Anything else work good/better?
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:33 AM
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I would recommend using Menzerna Nano-Polish PO106 via PC w/white lambs wool pad to remove the swirl marks. Not sure what buffer your using, but PC is pretty easy to use even if you're new to detailing.

I would follow up with a TS coat of wax via PC w/soft white pad. I just used the same combo last week on my SL600, and you can see the results below. Hope it's what your looking for, good luck!

PS: I see you're in So Cal, PM me if you would like a professional detail, I'm a detailer!

Before:


After:


I've only done the top portion of the panel in these pictures, but you can see how well the polish eliminated the swirl marks.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 02:41 AM
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2007 CLS 550 (Black)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
I had a go at doing the 260E's paint as it looks faded in some areas....

I tell you what it came up AMAZING!! HUGE difference.
I used Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner by Meguiars....but I was left unsatisfied when I used the polish + wax. After the paint cleaner, it was very very shiny without any swirls...but after I applied the polish it kept leaving swirls.

Any tips on how I can get the swirls to disappear using polish/wax? I was using a 100% terry cloth. Anything else work good/better?
What are you using your terry cloth for? Are you using it on the paint??!?!? I use terry cloths to clean exhaust pipes, engine area, wheels, and tires...that is it. For the rest, I use microfiber.

If you're a Meguiar user, check out the Meguiar forum. It has a lot of useful information. There is most likely a thread there that discusses the product that you are using.

If you want a good deal on Meguiar products go to autodetailingsolutions dot net. Try looking at other websites, you'll notice that ADS' prices are very reasonable. At the moment, I'm eyeing a few products G110 Dual Action polisher, Supreme Shine, a bunch of foam pads, polisher products...etc. It's driving me nuts!
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Lol, love the sig Gabe. I walked on those to train for Parkour. It is freaky, lemme tell you.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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1988 300E - Diamond Blue, 1997 SL320 - Black Opal
Akademiks - your pictures are worth a thousand words. The difference is outstanding.

j
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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'90 300E Blk/Tan
One word.....Zaino. http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=Zaino

This system is amazing ! It is not cheap stuff, but I assure you it is worth every dime. I buy a Zaino Ultimate Protection Show Car Kit once a year - for 3 cars. It contains everything you need for the exterior and the interior. I apply it on my 3 cars once a year, and hit each with a quick shot of detailer every couple of months after a wash. Once it is applied, everytime you wash and dry the car, it looks like you just spent the day waxing it. The "Z-10 Leather in a Bottle" that comes in the kit is the ONLY leather treatment and conditioner that I have ever used that actually DOES bring back or keeep the leather smelling like that new car smell. Lots claim to, but this is the only one I have ever found that actually delivers on that claim.

Sounds like a paid advertisement, I know, but I'm not affiliated in any way, I just think the stuff is that good.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticOne
Akademiks - your pictures are worth a thousand words. The difference is outstanding.

j
Thank you sir!
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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1988 300E - Diamond Blue, 1997 SL320 - Black Opal
What is the best method / cloth for simple dust removal? Waxed the car, now getting a layer of dust from sitting in the garage.

Didn't want the neighbor's seeing me with a big ole feather duster out in the driveway.

Tips?

j
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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2005 e55 designo
Originally Posted by ArcticOne
What is the best method / cloth for simple dust removal? Waxed the car, now getting a layer of dust from sitting in the garage.

Didn't want the neighbor's seeing me with a big ole feather duster out in the driveway.

Tips?

j
Yup Ultimate quick detailer by Meguires along with a microfiber cloth!
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticOne
What is the best method / cloth for simple dust removal? Waxed the car, now getting a layer of dust from sitting in the garage.

Didn't want the neighbor's seeing me with a big ole feather duster out in the driveway.

Tips?

j
http://www.calcarduster.com/originalDuster.asp

My dad owns one and they work great. 5minutes and the car is dust-free.
They are specifically for cars.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticOne
What is the best method / cloth for simple dust removal? Waxed the car, now getting a layer of dust from sitting in the garage.

Didn't want the neighbor's seeing me with a big ole feather duster out in the driveway.

Tips?

j
First of all, do not use a quick detailer. It's absolute crap and is responsible for leaving behind swirl marks after repeated use (as the dust particles scrape against your paint job). At least it's what I've personally ascertained after using it once on my own vehicle-- all I use is a simple micorfiber cloth. No sprays, no solvents of any kind. From my experience it does not leave any swirl marks.

And the Calcarduster, is useless. It leaves behind a residue of some sort, which is worse then the actual dust on your car. Again, just speaking from personal experience. Different people like to clean their car differently, I happen to be a perfectionist and will settle for nothing less.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticOne
What is the best method / cloth for simple dust removal? Waxed the car, now getting a layer of dust from sitting in the garage.

Didn't want the neighbor's seeing me with a big ole feather duster out in the driveway.

Tips?

j
Dry removal of dust risks scratching. You're better off with a good car cover before the dust, and washing when it becomes dusty. As far as products go, there are many available, and all seem to have their sponsors -- all the way from Nu-Finish (ugh) to exotic hand blended carnauba waxes. YMMV
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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2007 CLS 550 (Black)
Originally Posted by Akademiks
First of all, do not use a quick detailer. It's absolute crap and is responsible for leaving behind swirl marks after repeated use (as the dust particles scrape against your paint job). At least it's what I've personally ascertained after using it once on my own vehicle-- all I use is a simple micorfiber cloth. No sprays, no solvents of any kind. From my experience it does not leave any swirl marks.

And the Calcarduster, is useless. It leaves behind a residue of some sort, which is worse then the actual dust on your car. Again, just speaking from personal experience. Different people like to clean their car differently, I happen to be a perfectionist and will settle for nothing less.

I agree.

QD Description: Meguiar's Quik Detailer adds the final touch to your freshly detailed car. After detailing, use Meguiar's Quik Detailer Detail Spray anytime, anywhere to remove fresh contaminants before they have time to bond or etch into your paint finish.

From now on, I'll probably use QD as a last touch. Although there is another MEG product called Last Touch. There are so many to choose from!
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Akademiks
Thank you sir!
+2, Akademiks that is awesome. The great stuff, I am getting a little deeper into waxing my own cars now and have a DA. I need to get stock in the pads as I have "light swirls" in some areas.

I suppose a light cut pad should do first then a polishing one?
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
+2, Akademiks that is awesome. The great stuff, I am getting a little deeper into waxing my own cars now and have a DA. I need to get stock in the pads as I have "light swirls" in some areas.

I suppose a light cut pad should do first then a polishing one?
Diagnose the swirls first. They may simply be in the polish/wax you've put on the paint. If they are actually scratches in the clear coat, they are more serious. The total thickness of the paint film, including the clear coat, is in the 100 micron range, with the clear being at least half of that - or about 50 microns. That is a little more than the thickness of the paper used in a cigarette.

Before you go polishing (grinding) on the clear coat, remove everything by stripping the polish/wax/whaterver from the car. Body shop supply companies can offer a variety of professional product. Then, rather than a polish, I suggest a good clay bar cleaning. When this is done, you'll be able to determine if the swirls you saw were in the products on the paint, or in the paint itself. I always suggest the least invasive procedure.

Good luck.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 12:02 PM
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Seeing that I feel left out with my Macco paint , what would you fellas recommend for a acrylic enamel single stage paint? I've got swirls out the wazoo and I don't want to ruin it to the point of no return.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by appatula
Seeing that I feel left out with my Macco paint , what would you fellas recommend for a acrylic enamel single stage paint? I've got swirls out the wazoo and I don't want to ruin it to the point of no return.
Take it to a specialist and consider having it color sanded.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
+2, Akademiks that is awesome. The great stuff, I am getting a little deeper into waxing my own cars now and have a DA. I need to get stock in the pads as I have "light swirls" in some areas.

I suppose a light cut pad should do first then a polishing one?


I would follow the process Jen_Kenne outlined-- I like to use plain ol' Dawn dishwashing soap to strip the car of all it's wax. Not some new "cystal" Dawn soap-- just the regular kind. There are a lot of "professional grade" car washes out there that claim to strip the wax and whatever and fail; I learned about Dawn from an old timer and he was right. Once your car is washed and dried, examine the paint and plan your next step accordingly.

Most of your swirl marks and scratches come from damn car washes (even the ones advertising "professional details"), I would recommend if your going to invest a great amount of time polishing/cleaning it, you should stick to washing it yourself thereafter or the first trip to your local car wash will undo all of your hard work-- again, something I've learned the hard way.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jen_Kenne
Take it to a specialist and consider having it color sanded.
I'll skip the trip to the specialist as that sounds expensive and I'm not keene on handing my car over to a "detailing specialist", I'd ideally like to do it myself. I will look into color sanding, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Akademiks


I would follow the process Jen_Kenne outlined-- I like to use plain ol' Dawn dishwashing soap to strip the car of all it's wax. Not some new "cystal" Dawn soap-- just the regular kind. There are a lot of "professional grade" car washes out there that claim to strip the wax and whatever and fail; I learned about Dawn from an old timer and he was right. Once your car is washed and dried, examine the paint and plan your next step accordingly.

Most of your swirl marks and scratches come from damn car washes (even the ones advertising "professional details"), I would recommend if your going to invest a great amount of time polishing/cleaning it, you should stick to washing it yourself thereafter or the first trip to your local car wash will undo all of your hard work-- again, something I've learned the hard way.
I always wash my own cars, those light swirl marks were there when I bought the car. I use Gold Class, with a microfiber mitt. After watching some more videos on washing, I am getting into the "two bucket" system for washing.

I had clayed the car first, which removed a lot residue. DAMN...I followed the videos and instructions from Meguairs website and on the Pinnacle website as well.

Next, I applied NXT wax from Meguairs, and got awesome results. BUT....when you look at an angle, those light "spider swirls" are still there. You have to really look. Keep in mind, I did this by hand.

These were my results: https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...adventure.html

So, I was thinking on trying the Pinnacle method and use my DA with a pad kit from them next time, to get those swirls out. Thoughts?
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
I always wash my own cars, those light swirl marks were there when I bought the car. I use Gold Class, with a microfiber mitt. After watching some more videos on washing, I am getting into the "two bucket" system for washing.

I had clayed the car first, which removed a lot residue. DAMN...I followed the videos and instructions from Meguairs website and on the Pinnacle website as well.

Next, I applied NXT wax from Meguairs, and got awesome results. BUT....when you look at an angle, those light "spider swirls" are still there. You have to really look. Keep in mind, I did this by hand.

These were my results: https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...adventure.html

So, I was thinking on trying the Pinnacle method and use my DA with a pad kit from them next time, to get those swirls out. Thoughts?
Your car looks great! Black is a difficult color to maintain. If the swirls are in the clear coat, you may be able to fill them with a glaze, followed by a 'wax'. As long as you are enjoying the work, I say, go for it. You may also want to buy a book or two on detailing. Always use the least invasive/abrasive product that will do the job.

Last edited by Jen_Kenne; Jul 29, 2009 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
I always wash my own cars, those light swirl marks were there when I bought the car. I use Gold Class, with a microfiber mitt. After watching some more videos on washing, I am getting into the "two bucket" system for washing.

I had clayed the car first, which removed a lot residue. DAMN...I followed the videos and instructions from Meguairs website and on the Pinnacle website as well.

Next, I applied NXT wax from Meguairs, and got awesome results. BUT....when you look at an angle, those light "spider swirls" are still there. You have to really look. Keep in mind, I did this by hand.

These were my results: https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...adventure.html

So, I was thinking on trying the Pinnacle method and use my DA with a pad kit from them next time, to get those swirls out. Thoughts?
Your car looks great!

A glaze can definitely help your car look amazing, but it's not permanent. One of those things you use to keep your car looking show room new on a busy schedule-- to really remove paint defects, your going to have to polish the vehicle. Unfortunately, I don't know the history of your vehicle's paint job or if it's had previous work, so I would recommend taking it to a professional detailer and have him figure out what the best step to take is.

Have fun with the DA, if used properly you will notice a definite improvement over hand applications.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Akademiks
A glaze can definitely help your car look amazing, but it's not permanent. One of those things you use to keep your car looking show room new on a busy schedule --

to really remove paint defects, your going to have to polish the vehicle.

Unfortunately, I don't know the history of your vehicle's paint job or if it's had previous work, so I would recommend taking it to a professional detailer and have him figure out what the best step to take is.

Have fun with the DA, if used properly you will notice a definite improvement over hand applications.
Exactly right. Think of polish as very fine liquid sandpaper. You will remove paint. This is where paint thickness gauges come into play - to make sure there is enough paint film on the car. Typically, the total film (primer, color, clear) may be about 0.050 inches. That's almost two cigarette paper thicknesses! Watch the edges. Some of the pros will use blue painters tape to protect edges and ridges before using a machine on the paint. There was some good artwork in one of Griot's catalogs (and the book I did with Malks) that explained this process. It's like many things - education yourself and you can do almost anything.
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