Did i miss anything? (Maintainence)
03-07-2010, 12:21 AM
#1
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
Did i miss anything? (Maintainence)
okay so im just trying to do some basic maintenance on my car.. so far it has 220,000 miles
-Oil change (mobil 1 synthetic 0w-40)
-Coolant Flush (OEM Mercedes coolant) along with the thermostat
-Air filter (OEM)
-Fuel filter (OEM) but i used the old washer or bearing or whatever the little ring is called for the fuel filter, because i didn't have a new one (sanded it down)
-Spark Plugs (Bosch H9DCO) [tried champions before, they lost spark quick!]
-Spark Plug Wires - (Bosch)
-Brakes (Rotors and pads OEM)
-Changed all fuses to copper
head gasket looks good, wiring harness looks good, water pump looks good..
about to change the multi rib belt, tensioner, and drive pulley (everything oem except the tensioner)
i've been recommended i change the OVP relay as well? it works fine but they said i should..
O2 sensor - should i change?
Charcoal canister - I can't find
Transmission Flush - Planning to do, but not really sure what to change (just filter and oil or do i gotta change seals and everything as well?)
Planning on flushing power steering as well as brake fluid
Planning on changing diff fluid as well
Planning on changing all the weatherstrips
Planning on re-greasing sunroof, and all the little bolts by the seat belts, as they are starting to rattle
Planning on doing R134A retrofit
-Planning to change the suspension strut/shocks as i lower the car (are there any bushings or control arms i need to be careful of?)
-Oil change (mobil 1 synthetic 0w-40)
-Coolant Flush (OEM Mercedes coolant) along with the thermostat
-Air filter (OEM)
-Fuel filter (OEM) but i used the old washer or bearing or whatever the little ring is called for the fuel filter, because i didn't have a new one (sanded it down)
-Spark Plugs (Bosch H9DCO) [tried champions before, they lost spark quick!]
-Spark Plug Wires - (Bosch)
-Brakes (Rotors and pads OEM)
-Changed all fuses to copper
head gasket looks good, wiring harness looks good, water pump looks good..
about to change the multi rib belt, tensioner, and drive pulley (everything oem except the tensioner)
i've been recommended i change the OVP relay as well? it works fine but they said i should..
O2 sensor - should i change?
Charcoal canister - I can't find
Transmission Flush - Planning to do, but not really sure what to change (just filter and oil or do i gotta change seals and everything as well?)
Planning on flushing power steering as well as brake fluid
Planning on changing diff fluid as well
Planning on changing all the weatherstrips
Planning on re-greasing sunroof, and all the little bolts by the seat belts, as they are starting to rattle
Planning on doing R134A retrofit
-Planning to change the suspension strut/shocks as i lower the car (are there any bushings or control arms i need to be careful of?)
03-07-2010, 02:01 AM
#2
Charcoal canister is for diesel.
For tranny, just filter and fluid change. You should get a new gasket at the same time too. Make sure to drain the torque converter too as it contains about 1/3 of the fluid.
Suspension lowering only requires you just check and make sure all your tie rods and control arm bushings aren't toast. At 220,000 miles I would expect they have been changed by now though. If the car does not veer to the side, or show signs of feathering, you should be ok. Remember that most places do not have the correct equipment to properly align our cars. Take it to a dealer or MB specialized independent....should be ~$100.
You can change the OVP if you wish for peace of mind, but usually when it gives out, even partially, you will get the ABS light on accompanied by possible rough idle and poor MPG.
Don't switch over to R134a. It performs worse and there isn't much reason too, IMO don't waste your time or money...You can usually source cans of R12 if you look around.
Rotor + Cap can be done too if you think your MPG or performance seems a little low, or at the very least just clean them both really well.
For tranny, just filter and fluid change. You should get a new gasket at the same time too. Make sure to drain the torque converter too as it contains about 1/3 of the fluid.
Suspension lowering only requires you just check and make sure all your tie rods and control arm bushings aren't toast. At 220,000 miles I would expect they have been changed by now though. If the car does not veer to the side, or show signs of feathering, you should be ok. Remember that most places do not have the correct equipment to properly align our cars. Take it to a dealer or MB specialized independent....should be ~$100.
You can change the OVP if you wish for peace of mind, but usually when it gives out, even partially, you will get the ABS light on accompanied by possible rough idle and poor MPG.
Don't switch over to R134a. It performs worse and there isn't much reason too, IMO don't waste your time or money...You can usually source cans of R12 if you look around.
Rotor + Cap can be done too if you think your MPG or performance seems a little low, or at the very least just clean them both really well.
Last edited by ps2cho; 03-07-2010 at 02:04 AM.
03-07-2010, 02:23 AM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
Charcoal canister is for diesel.
For tranny, just filter and fluid change. You should get a new gasket at the same time too. Make sure to drain the torque converter too as it contains about 1/3 of the fluid.
Suspension lowering only requires you just check and make sure all your tie rods and control arm bushings aren't toast. At 220,000 miles I would expect they have been changed by now though. If the car does not veer to the side, or show signs of feathering, you should be ok. Remember that most places do not have the correct equipment to properly align our cars. Take it to a dealer or MB specialized independent....should be ~$100.
You can change the OVP if you wish for peace of mind, but usually when it gives out, even partially, you will get the ABS light on accompanied by possible rough idle and poor MPG.
Don't switch over to R134a. It performs worse and there isn't much reason too, IMO don't waste your time or money...You can usually source cans of R12 if you look around.
Rotor + Cap can be done too if you think your MPG or performance seems a little low, or at the very least just clean them both really well.
For tranny, just filter and fluid change. You should get a new gasket at the same time too. Make sure to drain the torque converter too as it contains about 1/3 of the fluid.
Suspension lowering only requires you just check and make sure all your tie rods and control arm bushings aren't toast. At 220,000 miles I would expect they have been changed by now though. If the car does not veer to the side, or show signs of feathering, you should be ok. Remember that most places do not have the correct equipment to properly align our cars. Take it to a dealer or MB specialized independent....should be ~$100.
You can change the OVP if you wish for peace of mind, but usually when it gives out, even partially, you will get the ABS light on accompanied by possible rough idle and poor MPG.
Don't switch over to R134a. It performs worse and there isn't much reason too, IMO don't waste your time or money...You can usually source cans of R12 if you look around.
Rotor + Cap can be done too if you think your MPG or performance seems a little low, or at the very least just clean them both really well.
well i don't think the last owners took too great care of the car as it came with the nasty green coolant :/
i shall check the control arms and bushings, although i think they are fine..
idle is not rough, but its getting rough (crap spark plugs are going) ABS light has been on though since i bought the car (owners actually took out the bulb from the instrument cluster
) and i tested out the abs.. it doesn't work at all hahaRotor + Cap were changed (bosch OEM) i forgot to mention..
I don't think the dealer will touch my car though.. i heard mercedes doesn't touch it if your not running oe spec tires or something?
hmm.. and if i don't have a charcoal canister.. something else must be wrong ;p my car still reeks of gasoline sometimes :/ no cabin filter for my year either right?
like to the point where passengers get dizzy :/ i fixed all my exhaust leaks (but they changed the cat too) with an aftermarket one as it was all cracked... so perhaps i should check out the fuel lines as well?
oh and ps2cho, whyed you go back to the oe grill?
Last edited by funkgab; 03-07-2010 at 05:09 AM.
03-07-2010, 04:38 AM
#4
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300ce
Ps2oh.. speaking of r12... have you heard of freeze12? I ordered the quick charge plus one more 12oz can..i'm going to flush out the old r12 or whatever is in my system and replace it with freeze12. I don't think its real r12, I belive its 80% r134a and 20% 142b,. its suppose to be better than r134a.. and johnsons freeze12 claim that its compatible with r12. Its non flammable and totally safe.
Last edited by koalabear; 03-07-2010 at 04:54 AM.
03-07-2010, 09:30 AM
#5
If you smell gas, your EHA is probably leaking. Pull off the air assembly and take a look at it. It should look wet if it is. Thare are two green o-rings that go hard and leak. Same with the o-ring that is under the fuel distributor.
I went back to OE grill because these aftermarket are too flimsy and I was afraid for my radiator in case something heavy bounced up off the road. Plastic doesn't fare too well compared to wood
I went back to OE grill because these aftermarket are too flimsy and I was afraid for my radiator in case something heavy bounced up off the road. Plastic doesn't fare too well compared to wood
03-07-2010, 12:25 PM
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1989 300E
I switched over to R134 some time back due to a leak. It acutally works great (when its full) i am not sure why all the complains about it on the forums, but it isn't a bad alternative IMO. I won't use any of those other things that are not direct DUPONT mixtures.
03-07-2010, 03:43 PM
#7
Well I have r134a and in the summer when it gets above 90F, I have to run it full blast to keep the cabin cool, not cold, just cool.
Maybe mine has an issue? I don't know...but that's my experience
Maybe mine has an issue? I don't know...but that's my experience
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03-07-2010, 04:22 PM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
ps2cho, whered you get your euros? haha just wondering
and would seafoaming my system help me at all? i mean its all mechanical injection so i figured i didn't have to
also, about the tensioner damper, i have an aftermarket one sitting on my table, but its too late to return.. its from a company called URO... should i install it, or just man up and get the aftermarket?
and would seafoaming my system help me at all? i mean its all mechanical injection so i figured i didn't have to
also, about the tensioner damper, i have an aftermarket one sitting on my table, but its too late to return.. its from a company called URO... should i install it, or just man up and get the aftermarket?
Last edited by funkgab; 03-07-2010 at 04:28 PM.
03-07-2010, 09:03 PM
#9
I got my Depo Euro's off ebay for $175..Don't pay anymore than that. I've seen sellers with them for $250 and its a rip off.
I've seafoamed both of my cars and you should too. Easiest way is to use the vacuum cable that goes to the EZL....just put 1/2 the can of seafoam in a cup and let the vac line suck it up with the engine running. Once it is all gone turn the car off and wait 15mins then start her up. Put the other 1/2 in the fuel tank. Don't bother with it in the crankcase because you should be running Diesel oil anyway.
If you already bought it, just use it. They usually only need to be replaced once taken off, so just use it and next time you take it out, it might be toast...but at that point replace it.
I've seafoamed both of my cars and you should too. Easiest way is to use the vacuum cable that goes to the EZL....just put 1/2 the can of seafoam in a cup and let the vac line suck it up with the engine running. Once it is all gone turn the car off and wait 15mins then start her up. Put the other 1/2 in the fuel tank. Don't bother with it in the crankcase because you should be running Diesel oil anyway.
If you already bought it, just use it. They usually only need to be replaced once taken off, so just use it and next time you take it out, it might be toast...but at that point replace it.
03-07-2010, 10:12 PM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
I got my Depo Euro's off ebay for $175..Don't pay anymore than that. I've seen sellers with them for $250 and its a rip off.
I've seafoamed both of my cars and you should too. Easiest way is to use the vacuum cable that goes to the EZL....just put 1/2 the can of seafoam in a cup and let the vac line suck it up with the engine running. Once it is all gone turn the car off and wait 15mins then start her up. Put the other 1/2 in the fuel tank. Don't bother with it in the crankcase because you should be running Diesel oil anyway.
If you already bought it, just use it. They usually only need to be replaced once taken off, so just use it and next time you take it out, it might be toast...but at that point replace it.
I've seafoamed both of my cars and you should too. Easiest way is to use the vacuum cable that goes to the EZL....just put 1/2 the can of seafoam in a cup and let the vac line suck it up with the engine running. Once it is all gone turn the car off and wait 15mins then start her up. Put the other 1/2 in the fuel tank. Don't bother with it in the crankcase because you should be running Diesel oil anyway.
If you already bought it, just use it. They usually only need to be replaced once taken off, so just use it and next time you take it out, it might be toast...but at that point replace it.
03-07-2010, 11:08 PM
#11
Its attached to the EZL on the driver side fender. You can't miss it.
Use 15-40 diesel oil so it keeps everything squeaky clean
Bosch and Hella are both very expensive, but if you can afford it, awesome! Be prepared to pay at least $500+, expect $700+ for Bosch.
Use 15-40 diesel oil so it keeps everything squeaky clean
Bosch and Hella are both very expensive, but if you can afford it, awesome! Be prepared to pay at least $500+, expect $700+ for Bosch.
03-07-2010, 11:21 PM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
oh, and about my belt tensioner damper, i can't return the part as its too late, do you think i'll be alright using the aftermarket one? its from some company called URO or should i just man up and go with oem?
03-08-2010, 12:50 AM
#16
Oh here is the seller I got mine from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...Q5fAccessories
03-08-2010, 11:58 AM
#18
Yep...its a shame people rip you off over the connector though 
$15 for that piece of plastic. You could always just plug it in w/o and fashion some waterproof cover, but obviously its not clean. I did that for a few weeks and it worked fine. I finally decided I needed the plug eventually...
$15 for that piece of plastic. You could always just plug it in w/o and fashion some waterproof cover, but obviously its not clean. I did that for a few weeks and it worked fine. I finally decided I needed the plug eventually...
03-08-2010, 01:00 PM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
haha i totally feel you... im really ocd about things looking clean and flush.. i mean eventually i'll get over it.. but in the back of my head.. it will always bother me haha
also what do you think about the tensioner damper and o2 sensor?
also what do you think about the tensioner damper and o2 sensor?
03-08-2010, 02:57 PM
#20
Activated charcoal filter
No. Exactly the opposite.
Diesel fuel is not volatile enough to need a fuel evaporation control system for the 602, 603, and 606 diesel engines. However, all 103, 104, & 119 engines produced after March 1987 do have a FECS.
See section 47-8212 of your FSM "Removing and Installing Activated Charcoal Filter". It does not say how often to replace, so I replaced mine at 100K miles on my TE.
The O2 sensor is listed in the Maintenance System Sheet to be replaced every 60K miles.
Diesel fuel is not volatile enough to need a fuel evaporation control system for the 602, 603, and 606 diesel engines. However, all 103, 104, & 119 engines produced after March 1987 do have a FECS.
See section 47-8212 of your FSM "Removing and Installing Activated Charcoal Filter". It does not say how often to replace, so I replaced mine at 100K miles on my TE.
The O2 sensor is listed in the Maintenance System Sheet to be replaced every 60K miles.
Last edited by ds190; 03-08-2010 at 03:00 PM.
03-08-2010, 08:27 PM
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
No. Exactly the opposite.
Diesel fuel is not volatile enough to need a fuel evaporation control system for the 602, 603, and 606 diesel engines. However, all 103, 104, & 119 engines produced after March 1987 do have a FECS.
See section 47-8212 of your FSM "Removing and Installing Activated Charcoal Filter". It does not say how often to replace, so I replaced mine at 100K miles on my TE.
The O2 sensor is listed in the Maintenance System Sheet to be replaced every 60K miles.
Diesel fuel is not volatile enough to need a fuel evaporation control system for the 602, 603, and 606 diesel engines. However, all 103, 104, & 119 engines produced after March 1987 do have a FECS.
See section 47-8212 of your FSM "Removing and Installing Activated Charcoal Filter". It does not say how often to replace, so I replaced mine at 100K miles on my TE.
The O2 sensor is listed in the Maintenance System Sheet to be replaced every 60K miles.
03-08-2010, 09:00 PM
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1989 300E
Yep...its a shame people rip you off over the connector though $15 for that piece of plastic. You could always just plug it in w/o and fashion some waterproof cover, but obviously its not clean. I did that for a few weeks and it worked fine. I finally decided I needed the plug eventually...
$15 for that piece of plastic. You could always just plug it in w/o and fashion some waterproof cover, but obviously its not clean. I did that for a few weeks and it worked fine. I finally decided I needed the plug eventually...
03-08-2010, 10:27 PM
#24
