300E Performance
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e400
300E Performance
Okay. I'm going to try this out again with a whole new thread here. Now that i have been told enough times that there is no such thing as cheap performance upgrade for a W124.
What kind of performance parts, or what can i change on my 93' 300E 2.8L 24V DOHC to get better acceleration, keep a top speed of atleast 130, and GAS MILEAGE DOES NOT MATTER!
So far i have been told that the W124s already have cold air intakes. There is no chip made for the W124. Spark plugs won't work.
And worst of all..,there is no such thing as cheap HP on a W124.
So, me not being 16 quite yet, and only currently having $1500, forces me to think about getting a job.
If anyone knows how to get my Acceleration down into the low 7's if not faster, PLEASE let me know.
Thanks
What kind of performance parts, or what can i change on my 93' 300E 2.8L 24V DOHC to get better acceleration, keep a top speed of atleast 130, and GAS MILEAGE DOES NOT MATTER!
So far i have been told that the W124s already have cold air intakes. There is no chip made for the W124. Spark plugs won't work.
And worst of all..,there is no such thing as cheap HP on a W124.
So, me not being 16 quite yet, and only currently having $1500, forces me to think about getting a job.
If anyone knows how to get my Acceleration down into the low 7's if not faster, PLEASE let me know.
Thanks
Last edited by zach1328; Mar 31, 2010 at 08:01 PM.
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e400
yeah thats what i want..But why a new tranny?
I thought the current one could handle a lot of power?
Also, i thought that engine is a good like 10k?
And wouldnt twin turbos be a better purchase (power wise) than the c36 engine?
What kind of injector cleaner should i run through my engine?
People have told me if i havnt ever done that it will help to restore power?
Or do you think i could pick up an engine at a junkyard for little money? But i dont think there are many junk yards around me..
And if i take my car to my local MB dealership, would they know what parts to buy for performance, and where to buy them?
I thought the current one could handle a lot of power?
Also, i thought that engine is a good like 10k?
And wouldnt twin turbos be a better purchase (power wise) than the c36 engine?
What kind of injector cleaner should i run through my engine?
People have told me if i havnt ever done that it will help to restore power?
Or do you think i could pick up an engine at a junkyard for little money? But i dont think there are many junk yards around me..
And if i take my car to my local MB dealership, would they know what parts to buy for performance, and where to buy them?
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Why a new tranny? The trans that comes mated to the m104 in the C36 is geared to take advantage of that engines power band. Why stick that engine onto a trans that is geared for an engine that only puts out about 217hp?
The engine would be about 35k new I believe. There are tons available on ebay in various conditions and with various parts included.
Twin turbos might be a better bet if you can find a shop that will custom all the work that needs to be done for next to no cash at all and change your fuel system as well.
I use Prestone Fuel System cleaner. Cheap, works well enough. The idea is that your injectors will collect crap over time and begin to lose spray pressure. This cleaner will help to remove small amounts of that build up. They also usually include an octane booster for that extra feel of improvement.
Little money? Only if it is in horrible shape.
Finally, the dealership is not there to help you tune your car. They will likely be either A) unresponsive or B) try and take you for all your money.
I've tried before... Not fun.
The engine would be about 35k new I believe. There are tons available on ebay in various conditions and with various parts included.
Twin turbos might be a better bet if you can find a shop that will custom all the work that needs to be done for next to no cash at all and change your fuel system as well.
I use Prestone Fuel System cleaner. Cheap, works well enough. The idea is that your injectors will collect crap over time and begin to lose spray pressure. This cleaner will help to remove small amounts of that build up. They also usually include an octane booster for that extra feel of improvement.
Little money? Only if it is in horrible shape.
Finally, the dealership is not there to help you tune your car. They will likely be either A) unresponsive or B) try and take you for all your money.
I've tried before... Not fun.
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1992 300E Sportsline, 1994 Chevy Caprice Classic, 1997 Chevy Suburban, 1998 BMW 740iL
take off the rear muffler and add a start pipe with a tip. mine fell off so i did that for a month and my 300e sounded great and went way faster than normal.
p.s. then it sounds like a honda and becomes a gas guzzler (and thats why i switched back)
p.s. then it sounds like a honda and becomes a gas guzzler (and thats why i switched back)
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e400
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e400
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e400
Oh i could have sworn i read to not use synthetics in the W124. But anyways saijin, what kind of injector cleaner should i run through my engine?
And should i drive it any differently while its in my tank?
And should i drive it any differently while its in my tank?
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I use Prestone Complete Fuel System cleaner. Cheap, appears to work, and has an octane booster in it.
You're supposed to just drive it normally according to the directions.
Yes, Synthetic can be problematic because the molecules can be shorter than petrol molecules and can cause it to leak more. But I've not noticed any increased leakage. To the contrary, my engine tachs lower and is much smoother and quieter. I couldn't be happier.
You're supposed to just drive it normally according to the directions.
Yes, Synthetic can be problematic because the molecules can be shorter than petrol molecules and can cause it to leak more. But I've not noticed any increased leakage. To the contrary, my engine tachs lower and is much smoother and quieter. I couldn't be happier.
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e400
OK thanks.
And when you say normally..does that just mean how you always drive it.
Because pretty much every time i go out i give it a nice pedal to the floor or a nice little double downshift.
And one more thing. I have noticed when my engine runs over 100 degrees celcius it runs like total crap? It seems to run the best somewhere between 80 and 90..At about 95 i can notice a difference in performance. Reaction times. Acceleration Etc.
What else should i do to my car to ensure it is running at factory specs (194 hp 199 trq). Sometime this week i am going to run fuel additives through it (how often should i do this?). And hopefully within the next month i will be able to take it in for any possible Compression leaks or whatever else may be wrong.
Almost forgot, my engine runs with a loud kind of squeeky sound, and i believe it is the bigger fan of the 3 (idk what its called). Any ideas on how to fix that?
And when you say normally..does that just mean how you always drive it.
Because pretty much every time i go out i give it a nice pedal to the floor or a nice little double downshift.
And one more thing. I have noticed when my engine runs over 100 degrees celcius it runs like total crap? It seems to run the best somewhere between 80 and 90..At about 95 i can notice a difference in performance. Reaction times. Acceleration Etc.
What else should i do to my car to ensure it is running at factory specs (194 hp 199 trq). Sometime this week i am going to run fuel additives through it (how often should i do this?). And hopefully within the next month i will be able to take it in for any possible Compression leaks or whatever else may be wrong.
Almost forgot, my engine runs with a loud kind of squeeky sound, and i believe it is the bigger fan of the 3 (idk what its called). Any ideas on how to fix that?
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e400
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I boot it around a bit. Depends on where I am physically. Campus Safety is not fond of speeding and I'm not fond of tickets.
I believe 85-95C is the designed operating temperature range. Where do you live and what is the ambient (outside temp) when you are reaching 100C? I've reached it before without any real detriment to performance but I try and keep it as close to 85 as possible.
Is your whole air intake clean of debris? Air filter fresh? Nothing obstructing any airflow into the grille area?
To ensure factory performance you'll have to have compression test, leak test, test your injectors, etc etc. Wires, plugs, coil pack (if you have, not sure if that m104 still has Cap/Rotor).
Loud squeaky sound is cyclical right? Check toward the end of my thread. There are a few youtube videos with that sound. If it is the same sound and it goes away around 90C then you need a new viscous fan coupling. $$$
I believe 85-95C is the designed operating temperature range. Where do you live and what is the ambient (outside temp) when you are reaching 100C? I've reached it before without any real detriment to performance but I try and keep it as close to 85 as possible.
Is your whole air intake clean of debris? Air filter fresh? Nothing obstructing any airflow into the grille area?
To ensure factory performance you'll have to have compression test, leak test, test your injectors, etc etc. Wires, plugs, coil pack (if you have, not sure if that m104 still has Cap/Rotor).
Loud squeaky sound is cyclical right? Check toward the end of my thread. There are a few youtube videos with that sound. If it is the same sound and it goes away around 90C then you need a new viscous fan coupling. $$$
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Lol, go easy. I'm still a kid by most people's estimates and I share his enthusiasm. You guys just beat it out of me and replaced it with sense 
Sometimes, I wish I had a civic though :\ To be able to just hop online and order Stage 1/2/3 parts and be ready to run for under 10k. Sigh...
Oh well, bigger and better things afoot here.
Sometimes, I wish I had a civic though :\ To be able to just hop online and order Stage 1/2/3 parts and be ready to run for under 10k. Sigh...
Oh well, bigger and better things afoot here.
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E
Being enthusiastic is one thing...but outright pulling stuff out of your *** and telling people who know what they are talking about, that they are wrong...just pure ignorance.
Heck, I'm only 21...but I listen when pros speak.
Heck, I'm only 21...but I listen when pros speak.
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93 300E 2.8
i know, save money and buy a used C36! = )
93' 2.8 was my first car when i was in high school, but just never seemed like it was wise to dump so much money into engine mods with money i did not have. But if money is no object for some people, and you just really love the w124, i guess why not?
93' 2.8 was my first car when i was in high school, but just never seemed like it was wise to dump so much money into engine mods with money i did not have. But if money is no object for some people, and you just really love the w124, i guess why not?
Last edited by W124_2.8; Apr 1, 2010 at 11:44 AM.
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S500
i know, save money and buy a used C36! = )
93' 2.8 was my first car when i was in high school, but just never seemed like it was wise to dump so much money into engine mods with money i did not have. But if money is no object for some people, and you just really love the w124, i guess why not?
93' 2.8 was my first car when i was in high school, but just never seemed like it was wise to dump so much money into engine mods with money i did not have. But if money is no object for some people, and you just really love the w124, i guess why not?
If you're set on making a w124 fast, you'll be spending a pile of money. And never be happy.
Put a set of wheels on it, lower it a bit and enjoy it until it craps out.
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Try away and if you succeed before you start shaving let us old guys who gave up trying to do the impossible know how you did it...
"The true defintion of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result " Albert Einstein :
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From: British Columbia, Canada
1987 560SL
What a noble martyr you are.
Again, nobody is argueing with you... do what you like, nobody here says things can't be done - it's just a matter of how much $$$ and aggravation you want to put into it. That part is entirely up to you.
If you want it badly enough, by all means go for it. You're the one who set the price cap of $1,300.
Saijin: please don't encourage him.
If we're back to this again, the thread has run it's course... again.
Again, nobody is argueing with you... do what you like, nobody here says things can't be done - it's just a matter of how much $$$ and aggravation you want to put into it. That part is entirely up to you.
If you want it badly enough, by all means go for it. You're the one who set the price cap of $1,300.
Saijin: please don't encourage him.
If we're back to this again, the thread has run it's course... again.
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E
I enjoyed the PM Zach!
I won't even bother to go into each part because there are so many things wrong with what you said. You are 15 years old....Heck, I'd love to school Michio Kaku at physics, but I know when to shut my mouth. Go do what you want to if you truly believe you can do it...just don't argue first. Did you do your intro to auto mechanics homework tonight?
TITLE : IGNORANT?
I'm sure you have been in my position before. And someone told you the same thing i've been told. "No such thing as cheap power." And you accepted that for what it was.
Now..
I'm not going to accept that, because nothing is perfect. There will always be ways to improve something.
I mean how does a civic si go 0-60 in 7.2 seconds with 139 torque, and a 300E goes 0-60 in 8.5 seconds with 199 torque?
How does a 300E (3500 lbs 194 hp) go 140 mph, and a Mustang GT (3300 lbs 260 hp) only go 146?
THE ANSWER:
A 300E is tuned for high speeds rather than acceleration. Change this, and you can accelerate faster, but with a loss in top speed.
Also, no "everyday" car is tuned fully for performance, they are tuned also for gas mileage. Send more gas to the engine, what do you get? More power.
Change the gear ratio to be higher, and what do you get? Faster acceleration.
See, im not looking for power. Im looking for ways to improve on the car, without the addition of many performance parts.
So next time, before calling someone ignorant..DO SOME RESEARCH.
Learn some technical stuff about engines.
Learn what oversqaure undersqaure and square engines are.
Learn what a gear ratio is.
Learn what rear differential is.
Learn what bore/stroke ratio is.
Do some research, and talk to me again.
Your one of those people who goes.
"Oh no performance parts for this car, that means no way to improve acceleration"
WRONG =)
I'm sure you have been in my position before. And someone told you the same thing i've been told. "No such thing as cheap power." And you accepted that for what it was.
Now..
I'm not going to accept that, because nothing is perfect. There will always be ways to improve something.
I mean how does a civic si go 0-60 in 7.2 seconds with 139 torque, and a 300E goes 0-60 in 8.5 seconds with 199 torque?
How does a 300E (3500 lbs 194 hp) go 140 mph, and a Mustang GT (3300 lbs 260 hp) only go 146?
THE ANSWER:
A 300E is tuned for high speeds rather than acceleration. Change this, and you can accelerate faster, but with a loss in top speed.
Also, no "everyday" car is tuned fully for performance, they are tuned also for gas mileage. Send more gas to the engine, what do you get? More power.
Change the gear ratio to be higher, and what do you get? Faster acceleration.
See, im not looking for power. Im looking for ways to improve on the car, without the addition of many performance parts.
So next time, before calling someone ignorant..DO SOME RESEARCH.
Learn some technical stuff about engines.
Learn what oversqaure undersqaure and square engines are.
Learn what a gear ratio is.
Learn what rear differential is.
Learn what bore/stroke ratio is.
Do some research, and talk to me again.
Your one of those people who goes.
"Oh no performance parts for this car, that means no way to improve acceleration"
WRONG =)
Last edited by ps2cho; Apr 4, 2010 at 11:35 PM.
