The WIS seemed to imply the corrective action was to replace the sensor. Maybe moisture damages them. My record with let's wait and see if it fixes itself is pretty poor. YMMV

Since moisture can often lead to corrosion I would have it replaced as soon as convenient.

Good luck.

 

you are low on freon ck if the a/c compressor clutch kicks in the econ light stays on because the a/c control goes in back up mode due to inop a/c

 

OB diagnostics.
The ec light on means the ac compressor is not clicking on.
Could be anything from a sensor to low or no r134a in the system.
Run the diagnostics on the digital climate control module,punch the numbers into the program,post the numbers and errors here.
Then see if tossing in a can of r134a triggers the compressor to engage and locate the leak.
If all that is Greek to you
pm me and I can point the way. to the solution.

 

After further research, the resin filled refrigerant temp sensor was changed in 5/99 so unlikely that's your problem. Sorry.

Check here for onboard CC diagnostics info:

http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27

Run and post values so others can chime in.

 

Ok Ill run the diagnostic test and post the results,,,great info on the diagnostics.

 

Ok Rich,Oh n Mr,,,these are the codes with only left side auto button on
1-37
2-28
3-51
4-51
5-29
6-60
7-01
8-29

both auto buttons on
1-48
2-28
3-80
4-80
5-31
6-100
7-01
8-30
thanks gentlemen,,tell me what I got here.

 

Those are the status values for current conditions.

Did you do Part 2 - Error codes? Will show a b plus 4 digits

If you get E FF your done. Post Error (Trouble) codes.

 

7?
01
your r134a has leaked over time( as all systems will eventually) down to the point of to low to operate.
add a can of r134a and have an ac shop use a sniffer to detect a leak.If no leak the r134a can be filled fully to weight properly.
Amount of R134a is listed on a tag over by the ECU in the engine compartment.

 

Ok Gents,,heres the codes after running part 2 of the test(thank you)

Eb1 416
Eb1 241
E FF

I ran it twice and dgot the same numbers once again. Now what does the codes indicate? Thanks much in advance.

 

1241 is low refrigerant and 1416 is coolant pump malfunction. So as ohlord and others have suggested add a can of R134 and compressor should kick on and light go out. However, you may have a leak so have the system tested. A/C techs shouldn't be too busy this time of year.

BTW, at part 3 of that link you'll see a small link 'click here' in the text. That will take you to the next page which has the descriptions of all of the values both status and error.

 

Thanks Rich,Oh and company,,,to the A/C tech I go.

 

You can try the simple fix,before going to the shop.

 

Well my "EC" light has been stuck on for a couple of weeks now , so i came across this thread , found it really helpful , but now im afraid that I might have a bigger issue then i think.... these are the codes i came up with...

EB1 227
EB1 231
EB1 234
EB1 417
EB1 418
EB1 459
EB1 241

E FF

Can anyone assist me .... I also have the codes for the numbers 1-8

 

while in error mode press both auto buttons and clear the errors.
Most of them will never come back and you may be just brain froze in the climate control.
Post the data values after you run the diagnostics and errors again.

 

Was driving from Vegas to Los Angeles tonight and it was raining so i turn on the heater to clear up the windows and to keep myself warm. after about 20 minutes with the heater on low(1 bar) as i tried to turn it off the control panel showing OFF but the heater was blowing at HI and when i turn it back on all the way to HI the air was blowing LOW. Weird part was i was driving through GHOST TOWN lol but i doubt that was it so i pulled over on the hwy and turn of my car and everything back to normal.. Has this happen to anyone else? Is it telling me my blower needs replacement soon?

 

I replaced the motor blower regulator on my 97 e320 on Saturday. At first the ac was blowing fine with cold air but after a few minutes just warm air. I thought that mabey I needed to put some coolent in but when I tried the gauge went all the way to red indicating an electrical problem any suggestions? the diy on the regulator was great!

 

the diagnostics?
Did you post the values and error from running the onboard diagnostics?
Post them if not and then we can proceed

 

Hi all, I do a lot of reading on the forum but now i need some help with the 1-8 codes i got from my a/c. Now, the car was from Japan so everything i guess is in celsius. My AC does blow cold but on a really hot day with a loaded car is really struggles, i just want to make sure everything is ok.

1 - 28
2 - 31
3 - 20
4 - 17
5 - 15
6 - 70
7 - 12
8 - 46

I get no error codes when i tried (E FF) was all i got. Hope you experts can have a look just to make sure everything is ok.

Oh, additional infomation is that the outside temp is 31 degrees celsius.

Many thanks

 

anybody?

 

1999 e3e00td aircon gone bad after adding freon maybe over charge hook up gauge in suction and discharge notice both pressure almost equal, low suction =38psi, discharge =42psi. Tried to bled in suction side dark sticky oily and smell stuff comes look like something internal happen in the compressor. Does any encounter the kind problem.
Thanks Dan

 

I have a mercedes 1999 E320. I have an air conditioning problem. In the morning when I start the car and I turn on the air condtinar on low level my air conditinar works perfectly after 10-12 mins the air compressor clutch is kicking off and doest come back on, unless I turn off the car for a while then start the car up again.
Any idea will be appreciated

 

AC compressor won't turn on. Put 2.5 cans of R134a refrigerant with no change. Here's my codes, any help is appreciated.

1 125
2 109
3 111
4 112
5 105
6 190
7 00
8 109
9 27
10 .8
11 .3
20 3.2
21 42
22 00
23 32
24 13.5
40 164

Error Eb1226
Eb1227
Eb1234
Eb1416
Eb1241

 

post 1-8 and tossing in 2.5 cans into a system that is low and still shows 00 on the pressure side indicates a major leak.
Get it to a qualified a/c shop.
Have the system evacuated,pressurized and leak tested. Once they locate and repair the leak they will flush,change drier,evac it again and fill with the proper amount of r134a and oil.This one is over your head and also over your supply of the correct pumps,gauges,and scales to do properly.

you also might want to make sure your outside temp sensor is plugged in since I doubt it is over 100f where you are.

 

Tried one last time before sending it away. Cleared the codes and EC went light went off. Put in the r134a and it started blasting with cold air. Used the AC all weekend and havent had any issues. I'm periodically checking #7 to see if there's any leaks. So far so good.

 

Glad to see things are working out.

FYI the error codes you listed are:

Eb1226 - In car temperature sensor malfunction
Eb1227 - Outside car temperature sensor malfunction
Eb1234 - Sun sensor malfunction
Eb1416 - Coolant Circulation pump malfunction
Eb1241 - Refrigerant low